How to remove the wheel bearings?

[Rianna]

Sometimes I forget about the time differences. If you are in the U.S. then you must be on the west coast. I have some good memories of driving that big truck out west on some long cross country runs. Beautiful Scenery...Wish I had taken more pictures back then!

I'll try with the camera again this morning on that logo. I would just take a pic of the logo on the back of the pads if I hadn't smeared that junk all over the back of them already.

[Rianna]

Okay, I attempted to wipe off the back of the pads and get a pic of one of them outside. Then I used paint program to cut out just the part with the numbers and logo area. Maybe it will be visible enough to read.

[oswaldters]

Kind of cryptic lettering - but you can clearly read the Kymco part.

[Rianna]

Yeah...I'm not having any luck identifying the pads numbers as being the correct ones yet, though. I have seen a couple different brands of pads that look like them online that say they are for Kymco with different thickness amounts, but I haven't found the ones with the exact numbers yet. I don't know what thickness the pads are supposed to be to begin with. I thought maybe they were the SBS pads because they have that #611, but I'm not sure yet. I've been busy searching for a disc.

[TechGuy]

The pads themselves are likely made by several different companies to Kymco's specifications and several other companies will make "generic" or "performance" parts.  I just looked and for an Agility 50 4T (2005-2010) the EBC part shows to be an FA228  $32.00 for the organic pads and FA228HH $37.00 for the performance pads. They also show a replacement disc 

MD971D EBC Scooter RotorFRONT Made from stainless steel, these diamond ground replacement rotors weigh less than most original units. $67.00

http://tinyurl.com/27fdlap

You can get them elsewhere, this is the first place I found when I searched.  I have no idea if they are good OR cheap.

[Rianna]

Thank you, TechGuy. I didn't know EBC had rotors as well. I had found a set of pads and rotor that I thought would have the correct dimensions. I believe the rotor to be of the "generic" variety. Not sure about the pads. The price for both including the shipping was about $38. I would post the links here but they are on the other computer now since I'm working on fixing my broken computer at the moment. If you wouldn't mind looking at them I could PM them to you in a little while when I switch back to that computer. I think the pads were by a different company but were on the cross-reference chart for the EBC FA228, I believe. I don't want to order the wrong pads or materials that are incompatible with the disc or scoot.

Also, I just noticed that the brake fluid I picked up says, "Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid" on the label. It's made by Valvoline. I've never heard of synthetic brake fluid before. Did I get the wrong thing? I'm hoping it will work in my scoot. I was planning to use it after I change everything out. I might as well learn how to bleed the brakes and go the whole nine yards at this point.

[Rianna]

Good Morning, TechGuy. I sent you a PM with the websites where I found the rotor and pads. I know there are different types of pads like sintered, organic, semi-metallic, etc. I don't know how to tell if a certain type of pads are compatible with the disc, though. The fella had 10 sets available when I first saw them and he has 9 now. For 10 bucks with free shipping they may go fast, lol. Every time I think I have it figured out there's something else to think about. I should have took Shop Class in High School. 

[TechGuy]

If the pads look like your's they sound OK but I have not been able to confirm the numbers. Looks like there were lots of "equals".

Are your pads worn bad?

I thought it was your disc that was shot...

FYI... that $10 brake disc you mentioned had a 44 Business day lead time... that's about 2 months of real time.

[Rianna]

What $10 brake disc? 

[Rianna]

Oh, the pads were $10, but I see now what you mean now...it did not say that the other day. Just my luck. It figures! 

Maybe I'm not supposed to ride this winter. I give up.

Thank you, TechGuy!!

[Rianna]

They all look the same, TechGuy. I'm sorry it looks like I sent you the link for the Rear Brake Disc. They are probably interchangeable, but this one looks like it is in stock for $29.95 plus $6.95 shipping. What do you think about this one?

http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.php/main_page/product_info/products_id/11171/cPath/116_8

And no, my pads are probably not that bad but if I can get new ones without gouges in them for $10 and I have enough money left after buying the disc I wouldn't mind having them so I can start out fresh after I get the OEM rotor resurfaced. 

[TechGuy]

someone is looking out for you, and He is very high ranking.  I took a VERY long ride today to meet-up with a friend from Modern Vespa.  Jim is a friend from the forum and he live is London, England.  He is visiting a friend in California. Since he was coming, he said he would bring me something from England I could not find in the states. Well, I decided today I was going to ride the 85 miles or so and meet him in person and pick-up my item. The three of us yakked for two hours... non-stop.

Later as I was riding home... a hundred plus mile ride home...  I stopped in at a grocery store to make a phone call to let my wife know where I was. I then bought a drink and snack.  I took these out front and sat at the provided table. I was near my scoot and this guy walked up and asked if it was mine and did I live in town. Yes, it's mine, No, i don't live in town but I bought it here in 2008. Come to find out the guy is the local Kymco dealer for this college town and this was the scooter he had bought for his wife.

Ok... now the good part for you.

I asked him about your grinding noise.

He said it is common and simple to fix.  You need to be sure that when you place the axle in the wheel and you tighten the pinch bolts on the axle, that you make sure the fork tube with the brake caliper mounting plate is rotated so that the caliper body, brake pads, and brake disk are all in alignment and that the axle is fully installed before you fully torque the pinch bolts. If the fork tube is not correctly aligned or the pinch bolts on the axle are made tight and then the axle is torqued in more, the brake mounting plate twists and grinds against the brake disk.

If the fork tube is installed misaligned, when you squeeze the brake handle, the brake pads pull in, the fork twists into the correct alignment, the caliper body moves away from the brake disk and the grinding stops.

[TechGuy]

He also said, you cant grind m/c brake disks... you just replace them.

[Rianna]

Thank you, TechGuy, Jim, and Kymco dealer! A hundred plus mile ride! So good of you to stop and call your wife. I hope Jim brought you a very special item.

He said it is common and simple to fix.  You need to be sure that when you place the axle in the wheel and you tighten the pinch bolts on the axle, that you make sure the fork tube with the brake caliper mounting plate is rotated so that the caliper body, brake pads, and brake disk are all in alignment and that the axle is fully installed before you fully torque the pinch bolts. If the fork tube is not correctly aligned or the pinch bolts on the axle are made tight and then the axle is torqued in more, the brake mounting plate twists and grinds against the brake disk.

If the fork tube is installed misaligned, when you squeeze the brake handle, the brake pads pull in, the fork twists into the correct alignment, the caliper body moves away from the brake disk and the grinding stops.

I have to study this a bit. I'm in a hurry right now and I have to run and help a friend, but I will say quickly that when I was putting things back together I noticed that the fork on my left side as I was facing the scoot will twist and turn unexpectedly and much easier than the one on the rotor side. I had wondered if it had anything to do with the loose fork mount bolts or even the missing pieced form the speedometer gear box? Once when I put it all back together it was a bit out of alignment and I was thinking it needed straightened so the fender would go on easily. It was somewhat turned in too far so it may be that the one on the rotor side was not where it should have been at some point. I will look into to this afternoon. Thank you so much!!

He also said, you cant grind m/c brake disks... you just replace them.

Yes, this is my luck.  Very good to know though, thank you! 

[Rianna]

What you described would certainly make a metal on metal sound. I have wondered several times if the screw protruding through the back of the plate was at all to blame since it is so very close to the disc.

Okay, so different manuals may call items different things. I'm thinking when you say brake caliper mounting plate the Agility 50 manual is calling it the Brake Caliper Seat and showing the black metal plate that is on top of the caliper in the first pic here. When you say pinch bolts on the axle, I'm not sure what you mean. For the axle itself I only have the Axle Nut. I do have what the manual is calling Brake Mount Bolts and shows that they go through the holes on the bottom of the shock/fork/tube then through the brake caliper seat in the second pic. This could be what you mean.

I'm reading this over and I'm trying to figure out what to assemble first. I feel like I need about 8 hands...lol.

Then, if I'm understanding correctly, I need to

1.) Put the axle in the wheel
2.) Attach and line up the
       caliper body,
       brake pads, and ------> Do I tighten/torque the Brake Pad Pins now?
       brake disk (adjusting the fork tube as needed) ------> Should I squeeze the brake lever here to make sure it's lined up properly?
3.) Tighten the Axle Nut to the proper torque specs (with the Blue Loc-tite/threadlocker)
4.) Tighten the Brake Mount Bolts to the proper torque specs (with the Blue Loc-tite/threadlocker)??
 
Is this the order to put them back on or even close to what you mean? And do I tighten the Brake Pad Pins with the allen wrench as soon as I place the pads around/over the disc or do those later? And should I squeeze the brake lever to make sure it's lined up properly before I tighten the Axle Nut? MAYBE I can do this by myself...the weather is supposed to be really nice here tomorrow...