KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Super 8 150 => Topic started by: PeTroL42 on September 17, 2013, 02:59:05 AM
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Hi, I wanted to ask other Super 8 owners about your auto choke.
When I start my scooter, it doesn't start out with a high idle to help warm the bike up. I had a chinese scooter that would idle high when first started but idle would start to go down after a few minutes. I was expecting my Super 8 to do the same but it idles the same whether it's cold or warm.
So I was wondering about you other Super 8 owners. Does your Super 8 idle high when the engine is cold?
I'm asking because the gas mileage on my Super 8 is surprisingly crappy and I've done everything I could possibly think of so now I'm thinking that the auto choke's plunger doesn't go up which is causing more fuel to be used than needed.
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Here is a great page about the auto bystarter.
http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?title=Bystarter:_What_It_Is,_What_It_Does (http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?title=Bystarter:_What_It_Is,_What_It_Does)
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I have a 125cc Super 8 and yes, it idles high when engine is cold and down to normal after some time...
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I have a 125cc Super 8 and yes, it idles high when engine is cold and down to normal after some time...
Thanks, I knew something wasn't right.
Now I have to pull the auto choke off and test it out.
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So I pulled the Auto Choke off and hooked it up to a 12 volt battery to see if the plunger goes down and it did.
Since I knew the Auto Choke was functioning, I used my multimeter to see if there was power at the connector. What I found was shocking because I got a negative measurement when I measured the leads.
The Auto Choke has a Yellow and Green wire and the wires it connects to are Black and Green. It came from the factory with the Green going to Green and the Yellow going to Black but this produces a negative 12 volts so the plunger on the Auto Choke never came down. I pulled the pins out of the connector and reversed them so now Green goes to Black and Yellow goes to Green and this totally fixed my problem.
I'm totally disappointed in this because Kymcos aren't supposed to have shoddy construction like this.
Anyways, now I have to see if this fixes my dismal fuel consumption.
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I'm totally disappointed in this because Kymcos aren't supposed to have shoddy construction like this.
.
(https://i.chzbgr.com/maxW500/4576416512/h86444ACD/)
There was no clamp holding the tube onto my Carb on my Super 8. Ours must have been built on the same Friday afternoon.
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:o
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First post - picked up a 2012 super. 8 150 and thought the carbs needed to be cleaned... But the bike ran great when warm. Saw this post and turns out my wires were also backward!
Thanks for the help!
Lou
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First post - picked up a 2012 super. 8 150 and thought the carbs needed to be cleaned... But the bike ran great when warm. Saw this post and turns out my wires were also backward!
Thanks for the help!
Lou
No problem, I'm glad I could help out.
Have fun riding!
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Found this thread while searching for a long standing problem with my Super 8 150cc.
In the morning, the scooter starts up fine, but the first 5 minutes of ride the engine goes near to stall each time I decelerate and accelerate. Unfortunately this happens in turns and stop lights. Even when accelerating from idle (i.e. green light), there is a moment rpms go down instead of up, the engine may even stop completely, but if it doesn't stop, the rpm go up and I can ick up speed. I have noticed this is related to temperature, in colder days is way more obvious, in hot days may not even notice it (had the scooter from nine months, bought it used, and has currently 2200 miles in it).
Searched the web for months, and read all sorts of ideas (the air filter, the dirty carb, the diaphragm, the spark plug, the idle level etc). Changed oil and spark plug, still the same. Used Seafoam for some time (also to winterize the scooter), still the same. Two mechanics told me the carburetor must be dirty ($150 to cleaning it). Already paid $70 to someone to clean it, but I doubt he cleaned anything, he showed me dirty ear cotton buds, and I don't think you can clean a carb properly with those. \The good mechanic thinks he is a doctor, has a $60/hour rate and meets only by appointment, plus it's too far from my home... plus the scooter is running ok beside this morning issue.
Now, the symptoms make me think this has nothing to do with the dirty carburetor, why would the fuel mist in the dirty carburetor depend on temperature? Actually sounds like a choke problem to me. I see already two people found the auto choke installed wrong.
My question is, did you guys have problems in the morning while the autochoke was installed with reverse polarity?
If anyone has something to suggest, I'd be happy to hear. I have ridden the scooter even at 35 degrees F, everything works ok once it worms up. Max speed 62mph.
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I don't notice a big change in iddle. As a matter of fact, after the first start, the rpm are so low that 50% of the times it stops. I give it another try and then holds it. If I try to pull the throttle at those initial seconds it will stall and turn of completely 100% of the times.
Where is this autochoke anyway? I might have some time today to look at it.
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It's the black plastic thing that has wires coming off of it on top the carb.
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Thank you for answering.
I tried to invert the polarity of autochocke, it didn't help. I guess the original polarity was ok.
I created a video with my problem though. This one below is a thorttle play the first 2-3 minutes after startup. Notice the fall of rpm each time I pull the throttle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcnnKrWcyAc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcnnKrWcyAc)
This other video is taken about 3 minutes later. You may notice the problem is not so evident as before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt9pD3yqDSE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt9pD3yqDSE)
Today was 63F (17 Celsius) and outside humidity is 28%. The problem is more serious in colder weather.
Any idea what is the problem?
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I have a Movie 150 and mine is doing the same thing. Its so frustrating. My scooter, once the auto choke turns off the idle goes from 3k rpm to 2k rpm. Then it starts to sputter at idle and stall. When i twist the throttle it bogs. If I'm able to keep it running the WOT is fine and it will reach top speed. I raised the idle to 3k and it seems fine but the clutch is almost ready to engage. Has anyone else has this problem?
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Mine had a blown head gasket. Fixed under warranty thank god.
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I just got my 2013 super 8 150 with 4K miles. I am having major problems with the auto choke. If I remove the choke from the carb and place my thumb over the hole , the engine runs great. The moment the auto choke goes back in place the engine would not accelerate.
I am looking for a manual choke kit
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All this talk about wrong wiring is irrelevant. The auto choke is heated with a coil that doesn't care which way round the wires are connected. If you are having a problem with the auto choke it is either that the choke is stuck or broken or else no power to it at all.
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Regarding the auto choke - not sure if you guys are aware - but it doesn't matter which way round the wires connect to the choke as it is just a heater coil - and it works either way round. If there is a problem with the choke then it is either the choke itself needs replacing or else check that it is getting 12v power on the leads.
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Good point, but the guy might have solved it after nine years.
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Had fun with the "remove" button here today.
If you didn't see it - you've missed nothing important, or adult.
Stig
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Good point, but the guy might have solved it after nine years.
Lol