KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => zx50 => Topic started by: patrick328 on February 27, 2014, 08:32:39 PM
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Hey all, I just got an 01 Super Fever (ZX 50) and I am so close to getting it to work, I can taste it. Here's what I know. My friend bought the scooter and drove it across town. It worked just fine. Then we couldn't get it to start anymore. Things that were replaced in a blind effort to correct the situation include: spark plug, carburetor, head gasket. The supposedly new carb leaks oil and fuel from every possible place. Isn't the float valve supposed to prevent that? Anyway, I pulled the fuel hose and found fuel coming out - faulty auto cock, yes? So I'm about to put a new one in. I'm draining the tank. When I replaced the head gasket (again), due to my friend putting a homemade one in there, I found 2 stroke oil most of the way to the spark plug. This is bad for any engine - 2 stroke or 4 stroke - I know.
So before I put the new gasket in, I drained what oil I could (without tipping the scooter), so that the level now only comes up to the bottom of the cylinder. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm betting the bad cock led to a flooded condition which, unrealized by the operator, caused the excess oil delivery via cranking. I bet there was a lot of that cranking, too. I guess my question is, how much oil in the engine is too much? What's the best way to get it all out? Crank with exhaust removed? Unbolt cylinder and tip over? Or if it is only up to the bottom of the cylinder, is that going to be ok?
Now that I think about it, probably the reason for the carb's leakage is the fact that the crankcase was flooded with fuel/oil. What a mess. Seems like I have no choice but to get as much out as I can, right? So yeah, how should I do it?
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OK so I removed the intake manifold / reed valve and tilted the scooter on its side and drained some of the excess oil/gas out - into a container of course, I'm not like a tree killer or anything. After I stood it back up, you could actually see into the crankcase a little, where you could not before. So now I know there's at least some chance of air flow.
Saddly, the electric start isn't working right now, will diagnose later. But I put a new fuel valve / auto cock thing in, and I forgot to clean the screen because it didn't just fall out when I removed the old cock. My tank is rusty, which undoubtedly caused my cock to go bad, along with clogging the screen with rust, and more than likely, plugging my filter pretty good. I'm just guessing because before the new cock, I got fuel trickling out the hose. Now, there is nothing, not even after manually cranking for a good couple or three minutes. So I'll get back to that cranking once I clean the screen and put in the new filter. However there is still the oil system. It needs bleeding since nothing is coming out of it either. Oh, the joys of two stroke troubleshooting.
So who thinks I should remove even more oil from the crankcase first? I mean, come on people. Someone on here has to know how much is too much. I only turned it on its side, not upside down yet.
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My tank is rusty, which undoubtedly caused my cock to go bad, along with clogging the screen with rust, and more than likely, plugging my filter pretty good.
..Clean the fuel tank first...or replace it..
..you're going to chase your ass until you make that better...
peace
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Hey that sounds like some good advice! $80 for a new one right? I'll be getting that next paycheck. So I got her working again, finally. Since my electric start doesn't work (diagnosed it as a bad starter), I had to kick start that bitch. It took, I want to say, two minutes of solid cranking to get her juices flowing again. Adjusting the air screw was not easy because the engine speed didn't seem to change. But it was running out of fuel at that point so maybe I'll try again. BUT she cruises all the way to a measured (with the speedo) 65kph, which translates to 40mph. It felt a little faster, maybe. Not sure.
So with a new fuel filter, new spark plug, new head gasket, does that sound right? Or should I adjust the air screw again?
Compared to my buddy's Honda Aero from 1987 (lighter weight), this scooter doesn't really scoot right from the get-go. But it does go faster than his. 13,500 kilometers on my clock.
When I changed the fuel filter, I realized I had connected the fuel valve / auto cock thing incorrectly (vacuum to fuel and vise versa). So of course I'm not going to get any flow hooked up like that. But I put the new filter in anyway and skipped cleaning the screen thing and it works fine.
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With the bike on its centre stand, just top the transmission oil until it leaks out of the filler hole. Keep going with the little scoot. It will bud worth it when you are ripping around on it
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When I changed the fuel filter, I realized I had connected the fuel valve / auto cock thing incorrectly (vacuum to fuel and vise versa).
..that explains a lot!!
..live and learn, right!!
8)
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I love the zx....
You can get em going pretty good..... IMHO ;)
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I love the zx....
You can get em going pretty good..... IMHO ;)
...lol..you reckon?!
8)
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I spreckon.... :D
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..yall was the zx fukn building kick-ass muthafukas back in the day!!
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NA... I just play one on T.V..... :D
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..yeah, and you slept at a holiday inn express last night...
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I like having the light left on for me....LMAO..... :P
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You might want to check your reeds if you had a faulty petcock. With all that fuel and oil sitting in there will surely do some fun things to the reeds.
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Well I would but I'm already planning on getting a race intake manifold that comes with reeds from ebay - do you guys recommend that one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-for-KYMCO-ZX-50-Fever-II-ZXII-ZX-50-Fever-KCA-Model-/181264891085?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a343abccd&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-for-KYMCO-ZX-50-Fever-II-ZXII-ZX-50-Fever-KCA-Model-/181264891085?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a343abccd&vxp=mtr)
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You might want to check your reeds if you had a faulty petcock. With all that fuel and oil sitting in there will surely do some fun things to the reeds.
LMK, ..What will that do to the reeds?
..and is the "damage" reversible without replacing?
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The fuel will help deteriorate the reeds if theyre fibreglass or carbon fibre. They can become weak, crack, or become brittle. If you have metal ones you should replace them before they damage the reed block from use.
I change my stock fibreglass reeds with malossi and polini CF reeds I get in the bore kits. They work great and you get a lot of seasons out of them. But even still, I never let mine go over 5k miles before replacing.
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One of the best things you can do for great low end and cheaply is replace the stock fibreglass ones with stiffer carbon fibres or dual stage Boyesen fibreglass. You will get easier start up as the reeds will make a good seal, better low end response, easier throttle transition as they wont just fling open, and easier cruise-ability. Only thing you will not gain from changing the stock reeds to CF is the high end, nothing gets better high end than loose reeds.
That reed block youre looking at is a CT chrome copy, you can often find them for sub 30$ from china which is a close neighbor to taiwan. Ive noticed on the cheap copies Ive seen you will have to fix a lot more casting flaws than an OG CT chrome. You still have to finish the CT even in non parodied fashion. In my opinion you cant go wrong with a true CT Chrome and a KX65/RM65 V Force 3 reed block. Also the reed block they supply (OG or copy) is a sub par quality block and be careful not to over tighten the manifold halves. It will crack and leave it totally useless, unless you have kx65 cages laying around like I do. Learn from my mistake and be careful tightening..
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That is some good info LMK, I have a new set of OEM reeds in my S9 daily rider...
..you say you replace them at 5k miles, wow..i said "new", but I have waaay over that many miles on them...
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Replacing them before they break is key, when the fibreglass ones break they fly into the cylinder or case and melt and leave a large amount of carbon left over, the CF ones will just shoot out the exhaust eventually. Either way it will end in a catastrophic engine event.