KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: msolok on April 28, 2014, 10:42:29 AM
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Hi guys.
I'm a new rider from down in Aus. Only got my license a few weeks ago and was looking around at a few different bikes. Was originally looking at some different bikes, including the Honda CB500x and the Kymco Venox. In the end, after discussing with my partner what she was happier with me riding, I settled on a scooter. Looking at all the options I quickly determined that a Maxi size scooter was going to be what I need (as I am 182cm and 120kg). Here is Australia we only have a very limited selection of scooters (no where near what other countries can get, and usually in only 1 or 2 colours) so i quickly narrowed it down to the Kymco Downtown 300i and the Honda Forza.
I found a dealer that had both in stock and went down to compare. I quickly ruled out the Forza based on it having less power, was heavier, I didn't like the looks, and that I didn't fit (my knees where impacting with the front dash).
The Downtown, however, was perfect. Looked great, has enough power to pull my heavy butt, and was big enough and very very comfy. So I quickly made a deal for a brand new one and it was delivered to me today.
I took it out for a bit of a spin this afternoon. It started fine but I quickly noticed that it was shaking and vibrating a lot at idle and at low speed. I thought it a bit odd as the bike was meant to be very smooth, but decided to take it out anyway. Once I added a bit of throttle it seemed to be OK though, no more shuddering.
Now, being a new rider I was taking things a bit slowly. Doing maybe 30-40km/h on some backstreets around my house. I went around some corners, slowing right down to make sure no one was coming (people in my area tend to drive like complete maniacs). I got to one corner, slowed down, looked and took off and suddenly there was no power. The engine had cut out / stalled. I would have been going around 30km/h at this stage. I couldn't believe it. Luckily no one was around and I was able to pull over and start it back up. But it could have ended so badly.
I kept riding for the next few minutes and then took it home and it didn't happen again (although it almost happened when I was coming up my drive, which has a little bit of a slope).
Any suggestions on what might have happened here? I'm going to take it out for a few more trips over the next few days and monitor it. But any advice on what to look for or suggestions on what is happening before I contact the dealer would be greatly appreciated.
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I would suggest you check your filling station, it might be a bad batch of fuel , sometimes it is contaminated with water.
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Thanks for the suggestion sklnzl. The petrol in it is whatever the dealer has put in. The bike only has about 10Km on it, so I haven't had to put anything in there. I will have to wait for the petrol to drop a bit more before I can refill with some known good stuff.
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Welcome to this forum, msolok! You will find a real mix of scooter nuts of all ages! You made a good choice in the DT300i but I am biased since I have one.
There seems to be a universal thing the dealers do not do and that is INITIALIZE. It is easy to do and usually stops any bad behavior of most of the EFI Kymco's with idling and unexplained throttle transition problems. This does NOT rule out bad gasoline! Here is the procedure: bike on center stand, side stand UP. Kill switch to run, key off. Open throttle to wide open stop and hold open. Turn key on but do not start. Time or count 8 seconds, close throttle, key off. Yer done! This will initialize the TPS and ISC (throttle position sensor and idle speed control). I do not know what "spooks" these two but I have solve ALL my crummy idle problems this way. Do let us all know what happens. I ain't the only one on this forum that knows this and most of us have used the procedure to fix our DT300i bikes.
Karl
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Hi Crossbolt. Thanks for the advice. I remember reading about this previously but couldn't find it again. Tomorrow I will give it a try as it is, try your procedure, and then compare how it runs. Hopefully it fixes the issues right up. I shall let you know how I go!
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Here it is : 8)
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Thanks guys. I gave that procedure a test today. It seems to have helped a bit with making it smoother at idle, it didn't stall when I was out for a ride today, and acceleration and throttle response seems to be far improved. The bike still seems to be a bit rough when sitting idle, but not too bad now. I might work my way through the petrol left in the tank and fill up with some known good Premium petrol and see if that helps it more.
Thanks again guys!
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You're welcome :)
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Thanks guys. I gave that procedure a test today. It seems to have helped a bit with making it smoother at idle, it didn't stall when I was out for a ride today, and acceleration and throttle response seems to be far improved. The bike still seems to be a bit rough when sitting idle, but not too bad now. I might work my way through the petrol left in the tank and fill up with some known good Premium petrol and see if that helps it more.
Thanks again guys!
Just a thought .....my newish LIKE200i's "stop light idle" became a lot more reassuring when I put in an Iridium spark plug. The Denso Iridium and NGK Iridium have both worked well for me. They won't 'fix' anything - but they gave me a smoother idle and a few more RPM's while at the lights in traffic. A nice sounding idle is 'good' when sitting surrounded by tons of iron.
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[/quote]Thanks guys. I gave that procedure a test today. It seems to have helped a bit with making it smoother at idle, it didn't stall when I was out for a ride today, and acceleration and throttle response seems to be far improved. The bike still seems to be a bit rough when sitting idle, but not too bad now. I might work my way through the petrol left in the tank and fill up with some known good Premium petrol and see if that helps it more.
Thanks again guys!
You could also adjust your idle mix / speed screws. If the "test ride" at the dealer takes more than 15 minutes it's alot so the carb. adjustments are more often than not, mis-adjusted. (Is that a word?)
Adjusting the fuel system is the first thing I do on every engine I touch. Known good fuel is first. You can adjust all day w/ bad fuel, and not even start when you put in good fuel.
~Just a thought~
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Hey guys. Got another update on my bike. Like I said earlier, after I did the throttle reset yesterday the bike seemed a bit smoother, but it was still noticeably rough when idle. Things where still pretty shaky when I turned it on or was sitting at lights. But being new to riding and the Downtown being my first bike I was a bit unsure as to what is normal or acceptable. All I could really compared it to was the Honda CB125 that I did my training on, and it was noticeably smoother at idle.
So anyway, I have been riding it around and getting used to it. Today the fuel gauge starts flashing at me to say the tank is low. I wanted to use up as much of the suspect petrol as I could before refilling to make sure all the containments had been cleaned out, but I had no idea how much petrol was actually left. So I did a bit more riding and then filled up. Using the Premium fuel that they had (98ron, no ethanol) it took just over 10.5L. Jumping back on it I notice a just about instant improvement. Idle just after switching on was still rough but by the time I had driven 1 hundred meters out of the petrol station and to the lights it was idling very smooth. It was a huge difference.
Clearly something was up with the petrol the dealer had filled it with. Thankfully they seemed to put less than half a tank in, so hoping nothing has damaged the engine. Going to be speaking to them tomorrow about it!
Thanks again all for the advice!
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Probably more fuel than Initialize but maybe a little of both, eh? We otta present you for posting the results since all of us were waitin' on the fence rail to see whose diagnosis was right! Good on ya and don't be a stranger!
Karl
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Oh, boy,oh, boyoyo! It is not often if ever one can get one on Zombie, if ever, UNTIL NOW! But here is the chance, right here on this thread: Hey, Zomb! There ain't no adjusting screws on this thing! No carb! Throttle body! OK, there might be a throttle stop that is threaded but it has some kinda bullet-proof epoxy paint on it which says, "Don't touch me!"
This is on a par with me yellin' at that guy about what kind of bike he had and his posted question was in the Agility 125 column! HE got ME GOOD on that one!
Karl
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You've been a pain in my a_ _ since the day you joined. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Just messing... I love ya Bro! I thought about it being injected as I was posting. That throttle stop is the idle air break, and does have a specific setting in thousandths inch opening. I just got lost in the glow of your holiness, and kept posting blindly.
For future reference the piece on EVERYTHING that has the "DO NOT TOUCH" tag... is the problem. Smash off the safety seal, and turn that thing with a pipe wrench if you have to because that is ALWAYS the part that needs to be tweaked.
Obama put those tags on things so we all have to go back to the dealers. Part of his "Back to Work" program.
I think I am having a stroke! :o
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I'll second the suggestion of switching to an NGK iridium plug. Cheapest "upgrade" you can do. Also, at a stop, your rear (left) brake will cause the bike to shake more than the front (right) brake. I generally use both brakes to come to a stop and then switch to just the front brake while sitting at a light.
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Hi there , question to those who have swapped stock to iridium spark plug ? what is the difference in overall performance ? ???
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None. The plugs just last longer in all engines, and resist fouling in 2 strokes
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it may be wishfull thinking , but to me it runs smoother , I switched at 3000 km. and now at 45,000 km. it still runs great,. seems to run better as I put more miles on it,. every once in a while I get on the super slab 417 and run for a while at 80 mph. do a few passes at 90 mph. then get the hell off,. and head for the back roads,.I LIKE RIDING at 50 to 60 mph.
300i downtown Don.
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I'll second the suggestion of switching to an NGK iridium plug. Cheapest "upgrade" you can do. Also, at a stop, your rear (left) brake will cause the bike to shake more than the front (right) brake. I generally use both brakes to come to a stop and then switch to just the front brake while sitting at a light.
+1 on using the front brake at stops.
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For safe breaking ,I would suggest using 70 % force on front brakes and 30% on rear brakes .
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For safe breaking ,I would suggest using 70 % force on front brakes and 30% on rear brakes .
We're not talking about breaking but when you are sitting still after you have stopped.
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we're not talking about breaking at all. We're talking about spark plugs ;)
If you want to keep your mirrors from fogging up... Use spit. :-X
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Hey Guys,
Had a bit more of a ride on the bike over the last few days an I am still unsure. Being so new to riding with little experience of other bikes I am unsure how much vibration to expect at idle. When the bike is first turned on (so only front brake applied) how much vibration do you expect.
With my bike I still get a fair amount of vibration when the bike is turned on (or at idle after a decent ride). The mirrors vibrate around a fair amount. How much do you guys think is normal?
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when my scooter was new I worried about the shaking ,. now I dont eaven notice it,. maybe its not shaking as much, I dont know ?
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I have been riding bikes for quiet a long time , and I have not have any vibration issues at stops and whatever brakes i use to maintain the bike in place ,I didn't quiet bother about that ,provided the bike has a well tuned engine which acts as it should at idle. 8)
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Maybe the idle speed is just to low. Try adjusting the idle set screw.
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Raising the idle speed does help. BUT, any single cylinder engine is going to have vibration when it's running. Even if it has a counter-balancer, you can never get rid of all the vibration. If it's not bogging down and stalling, you should be OK.
BUT, I don't know as much as some of the others here!
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You are still 100% correct. They all vibrate to some extent.
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Thanks guys. At this stage I haven't had much of a chance to play on the bike more, due to the constant rain. I am hoping to give it a really good run in the next few days and see how it is after that.
After speaking to the dealer he seemed to think it might have been an issue with stale fuel. He suggested I see how it runs over the next few tanks and then get the workshop to take a good look at it.
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A double dose of Sea Foam in the fuel helps clean the fuel system, and adds a few octane points to control pre-ignition from "stale fuel".
It's my go to tune up in a can.
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The engine is connected to the rear wheel, to the rear brake, to the brake line, to the lever.. that's why you can feel the vibes... the front brake is waaaay far from the engine...
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Thanks all for the suggestions. I have flushed the fuel and filled it with known good, Premium fuel, run some Seafoam equivalent through the engine, and given the engine good runs at 80KPH+ (with some decent reving to get the fuel moving through it).
In the end I have still been noticing the engine is running and sounding rough when it is just turned on or somewhat called, is slow to respond and accelerate when called, and often has the feeling that the engine is about to cut out when crawling along (such as in traffic). It hasn't cut out since I refilled with better petrol, but the feeling was still there. Often I was able to increase the throttle when it had that feeling which I think might have stopped it from stalling.
But today I jumped on the bike for a quick ride. The engine had warmed up and it was running OK (not as cold today as some other days I have been riding) but not great. I got to some traffic which was only crawling and stopping regularly so was just sitting happily keeping up. Until the engine died. I had to stop and crank the engine for a few seconds for it to start back up. So I caught back up with the traffic and was sitting with them for another few minutes and the bike dies again. At this stage i wheel it off the road to get out of peoples way. Again it takes some cranking to get it to start back up but I am eventually off again.
No idea what is happening with this bike but it really isn't happy. I think i'm going to have to contacting the dealer again and insisting that the bike is stripped down and looked at. A real shame as when the bike is running well it's a really nice ride.
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Have you checked the auto choke/auto by start? If the wire is disconnected it will act much the same. I have found several where the wire was never connected at all. It was crimped over the insulation.
Have you turned up the idle screw????????? NO! Do it!
Sea Foam "equivalent" is NOT Sea Foam. Just as a female impersonator is not a female. Just sayin'
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Without reading through this whole thread again, I wanted to offer that when you turn off your bike, do so by using the key, not the kill switch.
I forgot about that today and used the kill switch and then had the hardest time getting it started again. Never does that when I use the key.
My 2 cents. :)
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Hi WakeUp!
Technically they are the same. The kill wire is a ground wire that completes, and diverts power out of the cdi. It joins into the key switch along the harness.
You just had a coincidence of hard starting.
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wakeupmaggie: Thanks for the advice. I had received the same advice when doing my Learner Course. Their reasoning is that not only is there a chance you forget to turn the bike off with the key (those lights and electronics are on and you will end up with a drained battery) but also that some bikes can have issues with constantly turning off via the Kill switch, and premature wear of the switch.
While I have no way of knowing if they are just talking rubbish or if there is truth in it, but I follow the advice anyway. Saves me forgetting (as I keep doing) to turn off my lgihts and having a dead battery. It's always off via the key, not the kill switch.
zombie: Thanks for all the advice. Never worked on a bike before, so I am a little reluctant to do things like this. I might have to get myself a Service manual and start looking around the bike. However I am reluctant to do anything major with the bike as it is only 2 weeks old, so still has it's full 2 year warranty. Doing too much with the bike the dealer/Kymco may turn around and say I caused the issue (a common excuse for many Car dealers/mechanics here in Aus).
As for the Seafoam, unfortunately it is not available to us here in Australia. I have to make do with what we can get.
Spoke to the dealer again today and they have said the issue may be that I filled up with Premium fuel. They seem to think that I should only be using regular fuel and anything else could be causing issues. They have offered for me to bring the bike in and they will take a look and fix it up for no charge (which they really have to do with the Australian Consumer Laws anyway), but they still think one cause is the fuel I am using.
So what do you guys think. Could the Premium petrol be the cause of the issue. I filled with 98RON petrol, as the manual stated to use 92ron or higher.
I did point out the bike had been having issues before I filled up, but they just said it sounds like the petrol. So I guess I will be taking it in to them for them to deal with.
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Maybe cause you had bangers, and mash for dinner too. F' those retards for telling you such a thing. Better fuel has NO bearing on poor dealer prep. If you have the stones for it those would be my first words to the A hole that dares to spew that crap at a PAYING customer.
In fact I would DEMAND that A hole be fired or they completely refund your money/you write a little column in the local paper about what they said, and take your pride, and $$$'s elsewhere.
Sorry Sir... That one pissed me off. I'd be in jail for slapping the prick. Say it again... :o Say it again... :o Say it again... :o Say it again... :o Say it again... :o Say it again :o!
BITCH SLAPPED !!! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zs3vtz836s#)
I'm Sorry! :'(
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The fuel rating has nothing to do with your problem... unless you filled up with a dirty fuel...
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zombie: I am exactly the same at this point. Pretty riled up with their responses to the issues those far. They have just been really dismissive of it all. Not happy with them at all.
I have even taken a look at the Kymco manual and they seem to recommend fuel above 92ron. No mention not to use a 'too premium' fuel (which sounds like complete rubbish anyway).
vivio: Yeah, that was my real feeling all along.
I have gone to the extent of sending off an email to Kymco to get their take on this. I will then have something official I can cram under the dealers nose. I am at the point of wondering if I just take the bike back and demand a refund. If they were more accommodating and did their proper prep before giving me the bike, this would be a none issue. But this would be a real shame as I do like the bike itself.
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I have a quick story... I live in a town of 2500 people, and we have 4 stores, and two gas stations.
One grocery store for 40 miles one direction, and 25 the next.
I walked into the meat Dept., and I knocked out the meat man for sleeping w/ my wife (who also worked there). The store owner suggested I stay away for a week or so. I suggested he fire the worthless piece of s_it. That was 8 years ago.
About a month ago he asked me why I haven't been in the store lately, and I asked him "when was the last time you saw me in there"... I don't exactly know. he says
"At an AVG. of 100.00 per week on groceries, ect... it was 41,600.00 dollars ago. Perhaps you should have fired the meat man." I replied.
Moral is "The customer is always right."
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Ask the owner to spend five minutes reading your thread here. They will make it right.
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Hi WakeUp!
Technically they are the same. The kill wire is a ground wire that completes, and diverts power out of the cdi. It joins into the key switch along the harness.
You just had a coincidence of hard starting.
No, it's not a coincidence. I had a hard time starting it from the moment I picked it up. The dealer is familiar with the problem and so is Kymco. Kymco is who recommended using the key to turn it off and not the kill switch.
When it happened yesterday, I then remembered turned the key all the way off and then on and it started right up. Honestly, I don't know why I used the kill switch. I must have been daydreaming. ;)
There is a thread about it here somewhere, but I don't have time to spend a whole lot of time looking for it. I'll go take a quick look and post the thread link if I find it.
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I read the thread WakeupMaggie.
What Kymco has not yet figured out is there is a voltage spike thru the ground "killl" wire that feeds back to the computer. It is an AC voltage spike from the CDI. All they need to do is add a diode (part#In4001) in the ground line or a de-coupling capacitor to shunt the spike, and the issue is solved.
This whole process scrambles the computer until it gets full 12 volts for at least 30 seconds to recalibrate. Try it... Shut off with the kill. turn on the key for 30 seconds before trying the starter. It will start as per normal.
These are CHEAP SCOOTERS. I build more complex midi control boxes for recording studios.
If you want to call Kymco, and tell them the cure for their profit cancer is within reach????? Go on w/ your bad self. Either part is less than a nickel retail!
ABS codes on non abs bikes, non existent codes, two formats... They bought a bunch of universal controllers from Sony when the Beta Max was undermined.
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Here is another take on a solution. I had an Aprillia Atlantic 500 that would have occasional rough run and idle and hard start especially after being warmed up well. It would sometime even stall. The start was as though there was vapor lock. The solution on the Aprillia forum was to drill a very small hole in the gas cap. This simple procedure fixed my problem completely and that of others. I had a rough idle and harder start with my DT300. You cannot drill a small hole in the gas cap on the DT, so I made a small cut in the rubber gasket that would allow air to enter/release the fuel system. I know the system is supposed to be a closed system, but perhaps being closed causes a pressure increase/decrease that affects the fuel pump operation (or something like that). The end result for me is that my running/starting issues have subsequently been zero. Maybe this will help.
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I'm sure it's a surprise to on one here the response I got from Kymco today. They confirmed that there are no issues at all using a Premium 98ron petrol in my bike.
What was a surprise was that Kymcoknew the bike I bought, from who and when with me only supplying my name. Very impressive that they go to the effort of looking up my details after a simple email to them.
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Good for you. No better feeling than heading into a fight with a pocket FULL of ammo.
Take Picts... We all wanna see this!
Flying Bitch Slap ! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w1PdFOo4pI#ws)
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Hey guys,
Sorry for the lack of updates in a while but I haven't made a lot of progress. In short I was told to take my bike into the service center any time just call them an hour before to let them know to be ready. So I went to do that last week.when I call them they say they have no knowledge of my bike, it's issues or that I was going to be brining it in. I am told I must book it in for a service and from there they will look at the issues. The first time they can get to look at it is in a week.
Needless to say I tell them that is unacceptable for a bike faulty on delivery. So they take my details and say they will call me back in half an hour when they work out what can be done. Never got that call back.
So I have to call them again. Only for them to say they have no knowledge on my bike. So I go through it all again with Another promised call back at the end.
And then no call back and it repeats for a third time.
At this point I am pissed that this entire thing is taking so long and so much of my time. So I tell the dealer I am sick of it and just want a refund. I get a prompt reply from them saying they had spoken to the service center and they thought I was going to be calling them back to book it in. The dealer then books the bike in for a service on Friday. So I need to drop the bike off to them at 8:30 (and be late to work) and they will 'hopefully' have the bike fully fixed and ready to go by the end of the day. If it's not I will just be taking back my cash and leaving them with the bike.
All up I am very disappointed with the dealer and service center. I am not even riding the bike anymore due to these issues.
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Hey guys,
Sorry for the lack of updates in a while but I haven't made a lot of progress. In short I was told to take my bike into the service center any time just call them an hour before to let them know to be ready. So I went to do that last week.when I call them they say they have no knowledge of my bike, it's issues or that I was going to be brining it in. I am told I must book it in for a service and from there they will look at the issues. The first time they can get to look at it is in a week.
Needless to say I tell them that is unacceptable for a bike faulty on delivery. So they take my details and say they will call me back in half an hour when they work out what can be done. Never got that call back.
So I have to call them again. Only for them to say they have no knowledge on my bike. So I go through it all again with Another promised call back at the end.
And then no call back and it repeats for a third time.
At this point I am pissed that this entire thing is taking so long and so much of my time. So I tell the dealer I am sick of it and just want a refund. I get a prompt reply from them saying they had spoken to the service center and they thought I was going to be calling them back to book it in. The dealer then books the bike in for a service on Friday. So I need to drop the bike off to them at 8:30 (and be late to work) and they will 'hopefully' have the bike fully fixed and ready to go by the end of the day. If it's not I will just be taking back my cash and leaving them with the bike.
All up I am very disappointed with the dealer and service center. I am not even riding the bike anymore due to these issues.
Oh, that's too bad. What a horrible experience. And if it was me, even if the dealer fixed the bike, I don't think I'd be happy with it ever. I hope they fix it and that you CAN be happy with it.
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That really sucks. I am very happy with my DT300i and you have every right to be that way, too. Now how to get there is another matter especially with "dealers" and Kymco will be of marginal help. Someone on this thread suggested bad fuel and I think he may be more right than my "initialize". It would take some time to drain all the fuel and properly flush the system and I suspect the "dealer" does not want to do this because it would eat into his profit. You could do it yourself or you could persue the getting your money back. Does not seem very good on either account. I think the DT is a well designed machine and well built. There SHOULD be no reason for it to run poorly. I would help all I can whatever your decision.
Karl
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Agreed with all said here. More likely than not it's a simple matter to fix, and all is well.
Sounds like your dealer has too many irons in the fire, and a shop full of clowns that have no interaction w/ each other.
Maybe you'll get a free cup of coffee.
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So my bike was due at the workshop yesterday for them to take a look at the issues. So I jumped on the bike ready to take it down, switched on the headlights and they didn't turn on. After around 5 seconds they came on full strength. Thinking that was weird I switched them off and back on, and they took a bit longer to switch back on. First time that had happened.
But with the headlight on I was ready to go. Had given the bike a few minutes to warm up (as I always do) and I was away. As usual for the first 10-15 minutes the bike was running fairly rough but after this seemed to become much smoother and more responsive. The ride to the service center was, thankfully, uneventful other than the roughness at the start.
Got it to the service centre and continued on to work. By 3:45 in the afternoon I had not heard anything from them so gave them a call. The response were:
1) They took the bike on 13kms of a ride (a 3km ride then a longer 10km ride) and didn't think it was particularly rough and it didn't stall. They took a quick look at the injectors and they were clean. Don't know where else to look and nothing else done.
2) Didn't think the rattling from the front end was out of the ordinary so didn't investigate.
3) They switched the headlight and it came straight on. Didn't investigate further.
Their suggestion was that I could leave the bike with them for a further few days and they would take another look. Kymco had asked them to replace the injectors in the bike in an email over a week ago but they didn't have any and had to order them in. So there was going to be a wait for them.
Needless to say I was fairly annoyed at the lack or progress so I called the dealer to tell them so and tell them I was after a refund. After numerous calls (they had to keep calling the service center) the response from them was:
1) They were annoyed that they were stuck 'in the middle' of me and the service center. They didn't like that I pointed out my contract of sale was with them and it was there legal responsibility.
2) Thought I was out of line at getting annoyed at having to leave my bike with them multiple times to get issues present from delivery fixed
3) Decided it was my fault these issues were occurring as I filled up with Premium 98RON petrol and they told me not to. Told me Kymco didn't know anything about this and it didn't matter what they said. They got very annoyed when I told them Kymco's stance is what is important here and that their opinion, as a dealer, was unimportant.
The end of my conversation with the dealer occurred when the manager of the store was screaming down the phone at me saying that they didn't care and to 'take them to court because I would lose and then they were going to come and get me'. He then hung up on me.
More than a little amused at the dealers lack of basic customer service and complete lack of understanding the damage the internet would do to his reputation, I proceeded to the Service Centre. The guys there were fairly nice and explained what they had done. I simply agreed to get them the bike for a few more days in the future (even though they don't provide loaner bikes and I live 35km away) but asked if we can check the headlights before I go as I know something is wrong.
We get out to the bike and test the headlight. They don't turn on. The service guys very quickly proclaimed it hadn't happened at all during any of their testing during the day. Looks like a faulty contact in the switch. So they have done a quick fix to the switch so the headlights turn on but have to order in replacement parts for an actual fix.
Haven't had a chance to ride the bike since letting it sit overnight to know how it goes now. Them reseating the injectors might have helped. But I still have to wait for them to get replacement injectors and headlight switch and then leave the bike with them for a few days.
As for the dealer, needless to say I will be suggesting to everyone I meet not to use them. They are pathetic.
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Glad to hear you got 'em on the run! Sorry to hear you have had to resort to this and spend the effort. There is but one thing the dealer tech is right: it has to malfunction when he is looking at it, i.e. the light switch but that is for trouble shooting. Neither the dealer not the tech should assume you are some ignorant rube. there should be an effort to reproduce the problem without the drama which they did not do. This goes right to my opinion that DEALERS AND THEIR TECHS SUCK! Go get 'em and watch 'em closely so they don't screw up your bike. Don't know how you are gonna do that from 35km away!
Karl
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So had a few more rides on it since getting it back. I have noticed that it seems to be running smoother than previously and much more responsive from when it's turned on. The only differences between now and last week are that it has been to the service center and had it's injectors removed, inspected and reinstalled, and we are having unseasonably warm weather this past week+.
So it could be that the bike is behaving as it isn't really getting that cold and the issue is with cold starts.
Or it could be that the injectors were incorrectly installed or seated and when they have been inspected it's fixed them up.
I'm going to keep my eye on it and see how it goes once it gets cold here again.
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WE ALL Gott y' Back Son...
10000 Maniacs (Natalie Merchant) Like The Weather Live on The White Room (Part 2 of 2) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm0ZWbMhWrE#)
She a,ways makes me
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That's good news ! You finally got it fixed I presume ;D
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Nothing has been fixed, per-say. The bike has yet to go back to the service centre.
The problem is it hasn't been getting cold enough to really test how well the bike runs in the cold. It was colder when I was having the stalling issues than it is now (which is strange as we have now hit winter), so it's hard to really gauge if the issues are resolved or if it's just not cold enough to be happening.
Since getting my bike back it has only stalled once, and that was about 10-15 seconds after it was turned on and it was sitting on it's centre stand (it also wouldn't turn on over for a few minutes afterwards).
I am fairly happy with how it is running at the moment though. I think the engine is settling in fairly well and is getting smoother and more responsive. It will be going in for it's first service in a week or so, so hopefully they will fix the light relay then and take a further look and make sure it is running well.
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I realize this part of the thread is back a ways but I just got caught up and read about initializing the bike. I went out and tried it on my GT and it seems to have helped a great deal. It idols much more smoothly and when I take off it doesn't have that rough rumble until it gets going anymore. Very glad I'm on this forum with all the fantastic tips and information.
Thanks everyone and as always ride safe, mscmkr
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I HATE dealers that give all honest and reputable shops a bad name like this. I think the worst bunk bike was a customer that bought an ABS Xciting500 new and was having problems with his ABS not working/pulsing even under light breaking. Ended up replacing the entire Bosch ABS "brain". I felt bad though, poor guy bought the top of the line scoot and had it out of commission for weeks. He's loved it ever since the ABS was fixed. Moral of the story, hold in there and once it's fixed you'll love your Kymco in the end!!!!
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After reading through this thread, thought I would post my experience.... recently traded in Yager for a DT300i, My Yager was stalling, cutting out, running rough, and hard to start for over a year..... Serviced but they did not find the problem, finally after sitting in service for over 2 months they determined that maybe there was a pinched air hose and that the ignition coil was defective.... A faulty ignition coil could I assume cause lots of issues.......
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did you ever check the gas for water , or dirt, buy the gas by the 5 gal. and filter it to check for dirt, I dont know how to check for water,. the old cars had a filter with a glass jar you cold see if there was water ,
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Easiest way to check for water in the fuel (all Ethanol fuel contains water) is to open the bowl bleeder screw on the base of the carb, and let it flow into a clear glass jar. Let it sit for an hour, and you will see if there is SEPARATED water. If it is a FI bike then pull the fuel line off the throttle body, and let the fuel flow into a jar.
Ethanol attracts water, and can only hold so much in suspension. After that point it is water.
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Good reason not to use ethanol. I will drive out of the way to get the good stuff. I have 2 stations near me that sells non ethanol gas and I have an app to help me if I'm on the road to find it.
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Any updates, msolok?
Karl
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I am up to around 1,600Km on the Downtown now. Since dropping is off at the Service Centre the first time there has only been 1 incident with it stalling. Other than that it's been running well, nice and smooth.
It took a long time for the switch block to come in to fix my headlights issue. But it's now been replaced and it is running well. I am quite happy with it, even after the initial stumbles.
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glad things worked out in the end.
my scoot (dt300i) has stalled on me twice so far. in traffic. both times when suddenly releasing throttle before/at a stop, but could start it quickly, still not a pleasant experience. suspecting gas but not sure... have the iridium plug at home but haven't changed to it yet. maybe that would help?
another question: what is the correct idle rpm?
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Msolok, that is great the thing is running normally! Nushipwright, idle should be 1650 +/- 50 rpm. You do the INITIALIZATION yet?
Karl
CORRECTION! IDLE SPEED SHOULD BE 1600+/- 100 RPM. Well, I was close.....
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Msolok, that is great the thing is running normally! Nushipwright, idle should be 1650 +/- 50 rpm. You do the INITIALIZATION yet?
Karl
my idle is at 1500 . no I haven't done initialization yet. nor do I know how to do it. what does it do?
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This is how its done:
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I would still take your scooter back to the dealers & have their mechanic look at it just to be safe. It should not cost you anything as it's new & you don't expect any problems from a new scooter. When I first got my scooter I accidently left the key on & drained the battery. Fortunately the nice people who sold me the scooter replaced it with a new battery free if charge. No problems after that dilemma. I believe the Downtown to be a very reliable scooter. Good luck
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An issue just came up with one of our dt300 on the showroom. Went to test drive it and no spark. Found out that there is a hazard control unit under the seat on the right side. A brown box that looks like a cdi with 11 wires coming in and out. In plug it and see if it fixes your issue. For some odd reason it has partial control of the ignition.
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What is a "hazard control unit", B&L? I do not recall a brown box on machine right on mine. How big is this brown box? I need to go look again......
Karl
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I didn't know about it tell yesterday when our DT started messing up. It controls the hazards and apparently something in the ignition system too. If you take your seat bucket out it's about half the size of a cigarette box right behind the rh side seat latch. Two green connectors going to it. You cash in plug it and test if that fixed your stalling issue.