KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => zx50 => Topic started by: super50zx on May 30, 2014, 02:56:05 AM
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hi all, been reading forums getting some info, decided to sign up as I am having issues any advice would be appreciated. 2002 kymco super fever 50 2 stroke. just got this scooter about a year ago and I really like it alot was running great . Running along and it just quit, at one point it was getting fuel to carb so took that off and cleaned completely as I thought it would be a carb issue, now it wont start and does not get fuel to the carb via the vacuum line from intake manifold. I confirmed that fuel lines are good n clean, sucked ever so softly on the line that operates the petcock from the manifold and fuel flows excellent, took carb apart again and confirmed correct reassembly etc. took intake manifold off and inspected reeds no issues, new gaskets as well, took cylinder head off, piston and sleeve look great and not alot of carbon either, cleaned and new gasket also. I also confirmed spark is there. I have filled the fuel bowl manually and it still wont turn over. I am at a loss, seems I certainly have a vacuum issue somewhere, i checked for any cracks in the motor case also and that all looked good, any help would be great and if I left anything out please let me know, thanks. I am hoping I just need a new carb but the fuel not getting to it has me worried.....thanks all
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If you have a "vacuum" issue sound like you have a compression issue. Try with the air box off crank the engine with your hand over the mouth of the carb, does it suck pretty hard? If you manually put gas in the bowl and it didn't work maybe the cylinder is worn. I have had no-run before because of plugged up exhaust but you said there wasn't much carbon on the piston so doubtful.
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I did that and there is not much suction at all....I am not the most mechanical so if the cylinder is worn what would need to be done, ball park on dollars to fix if I attempt and where would I get parts as I have had no luck finding any online. I will buy a compression gauge and check it at the cylinder first and that would confirm it right? thanks for the reply
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Compression test is mandatory. It needs to be at least 120 psi with the throttle wide open.
Just a guess would be a case leak. Perhaps the seals on the crank.
If the compression test shows good I would buy a set of crank seals from Stadium Yamaha. 15% off for forum members but the parts are like 6 bucks anyway. They are easy to install, and the old ones can be left in place. Only the variator, and flywheel need to be removed to install them.
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If your not mechanically inclined you may end up damaging something and paying more in the end.
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hey all, just did a compression test, held the throttle wide open and cranked starter........did about five times and reset the guage each one.....150psi.......so now where should i start to trouble shoot. i have spark, could not find any cracks in the casing will look better again today, just not getting any suction through carb and not getting any vacuum on the fuel line to feed carb, thanks
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There's a brown spacer between the carb and intake, make sure the o-rings are good and in the right direction. They should face the intake and there is an up and down to it. Possibly an issue with reeds but you said they looked good.
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The next step is to remove, and block off the exhaust, and remove the Carb.
You have to rig up a system where you can pressurize the engine to 6-7PSI.
TSG Tuning Leak Down Pressure Tester - Demonstration (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RzEjXdaEUs#)
I have one of Josh's leak down test kits if you need to borrow it. Maybe 20.00 to ship it back/forth.
Otherwise they are around 200.00
Another option... http://www.boatersland.com/cdi551-34pv.html?gclid=CO6Wxqeu1L4CFWgF7AodpycAhA (http://www.boatersland.com/cdi551-34pv.html?gclid=CO6Wxqeu1L4CFWgF7AodpycAhA)
You still have to remove the variator/flywheel to gain access to the crank seals so I would just replace them. BUT the leak could be anywhere. Soapy water will find the leak.
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Thanks for the info guys, yeah the o-rings are good and the spacer is put in properly, zombie thank you very much on the offer of borrowing the leak down tester, a friend of mine here in MD may have one I can use, if not I will let you know. great info and thanks so much, I am not stopping until I get this thing running again!!! will keep you posted.
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They are easy to fix. It is NEVER the case 1/2's that leak so it will show up, and be a cheap part.
The tester is always here if you need it. I live 4 doors down from the post so it's a non issue to send it.
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thanks zombie, i will keep you posted. i will be away from it for a few weeks due to work trips but will certainly hit you up if i need that tool and thanks again....hopefully it will be something simple, quick questions could a faulty exhaust gasket make the lack of vacuum and a non start? pulled the exhaust earlier today and the metal gasket was kind of crumpled up and did not appear to be in good shape, but have never seen one like that before. almost like a slinky, thanks
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Non issue. It will run with no exhaust.
I think you may have something after market on the bike. Those accordion type exhaust gaskets are the best ones to use, and are NOT oem.
Can you post up a Pict of the cylinder, pipe, carb? It might help.
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trying to figure out how to post the pics, resized, moved, converted etc, keeps saying error.....I am about as good on this as I am repairing my scooter... I would be happy to forward an email to you with the pics, let me know if that would work for you, thanks.
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test
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Glad to see you got posting Picts. down. I personally HATE posting Picts. It takes forever to get them done.
It is all OEM stuff. The gasket has been replaced at some point but that is a non issue.
Can you try to start it w/ the pipe removed, and the air box re-installed?
Even tho the piston is relatively carbon free it may still be a clogged pipe. That will prevent any vacuum at the intake, and give you high compression readings. Also try another compression test w/ the pipe removed.
See what happens
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thanks I will do that, probably wont be until next week mid week. I will let you know what happens and the readings
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8)
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okay finally got back home, did a compression test with the exhaust removed and I still was getting 140-150 psi, blew air through the exhaust pipe and it traveled well without any blockage from what I could tell. I am ready to do the leak down test.....two questions, can the leak down test be done with the motor still on the bike? and the big question.....how would I go about taking you up on your offer and using your tester????? thank you very much
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Pm me your address, phone number I'll send it out in the mornings post, and give you a call to confirm it is sent.
You can do the test w/ the engine installed however it may be difficult to see all the potential leak sources.
Have the cvt (variator) removed as well as the flywheel.
The three main areas these engines leak are the crank shaft seals/ intake manifold seals/ base gasket seal
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thank you , pm sent
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Got it. I'll have it out in the morning
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flywheel off, seals actually look good and tight and seam to still be pliable, for the leak down test would i spray a bit of soapy water on them, correct? also where the pen is pointed the contact point is a tad rusty should i use some light sandpaper and clean that up some? thanks
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Nice... You are ahead of the curve Bro. That bit you are pointing out is the trigger coil or pick up coil.
A little sandpaper won't hurt. In fact I have seen engines not spark because of rust there.
Don't trust how the seals look. It can/will deceive you. I'll send the tester out tomorrow morn at 9:00am. You should see it by Fri/Saturday.
Cool/Cool
Soapy water is the only way to find the leak... It's the bubbles you are looking for. It should hold 7 lbs pressure for 7 minutes. If not you gotta find the leak.
W/ no vacuum at the carb I suspect it will not even get to 7 lbs.
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cool man i know i would not have been able to get this far without your help...!!! just to be certain, I am removing this entire cover correct?
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Correct.
It's just something like 8 bolts. It may take a few shots from a dead blow hammer to get it off the first time. They use locater dowels to line it up, and sometimes they get stuck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk2BCEq4pFA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk2BCEq4pFA)
You don't need the silly tool w/ teeth or remove the kick start. All else is the same
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Awesome man.....you are the man.
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Woo Hoo!!! ;D
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Gotta go to work in the morning but still messing with the scoot.....gotta tell you I am learning alot and having some fun. hope I am not too annoying on here....just pulled the variator and the seal behind it was only setting in there kind of half cocked and i would say it is pretty much toast. I will be ordering new seals for that and the other side might as well replace them while its all apart, as for the rollers they look pretty decent, though i dont know what they are really supposed to look like....:) I cleaned them up a bit and rolled them across a piece of glass and they rolled pretty true no wobbling or any real uneven spots on them. of course now i have to ask....from what i have read people are saying you can get a little bit more performance with a new variator or rollers??? was just curious thinking it would be pretty cool to up-tune this thing myself, thoughts on that, worth it? etc. thanks!
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Good news mate!
You can pull out the old seals with a hook type pick. They come out pretty easy. I would try REAL hard to shake or move the crankshaft on that side of the engine. MAYBE the bearings went bad. Not always but if happens. You can reinstall the flywheel by hand, and rotate the crank to TDC and see if the crank deflects there too.
What I do is install TWO seals in each side. One facing in, and the other facing out. (insurance). Also I use Indian Shelac to "glue" the seal in.
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/permatex-20539/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=COP9ltqq7r4CFWMQ7AodnQYA1A (http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/permatex-20539/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=COP9ltqq7r4CFWMQ7AodnQYA1A)
None of that silicone RTV crap.
Call Louie for the Variator.... Polini is about 47 bucks dealer price from him for forum members. (spi)
http://www.spi-parts.com (http://www.spi-parts.com)
Also when you order the new seals get a new Bando belt. No other brand. It is around 40 bucks but you will have the old one for a spare. I'll still send out the tester for you cause there is nothing worse than finishing the repairs but to find another leak. That is unless your case bearing is shot... That is a ROYAL BITCH to change. Let me know. 904 20nine 70nine1
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i can turn the crankshaft by hand (very hard too though) but as i do that i can see the piston moving as well through the exhaust outlet. the crankshaft does not wobble from side to side any, maybe a millimeter or two, and on the stator side it does not move either from side to side. is that okay? the belt on there is bando brand, there was surprisingly not a terrible amount of belt dest either, still will order another as its all apart now.
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If you compare the two sides for wobble they really should be ZERO. I would TRIPLE check this. The problem becomes not only removing the crank, and bearings but installing the new ones. They are press fit on both the crank, and into the case halves.
It is a minor nightmare to swap them out. There are specific tools that make it all easier, and the set runs around 60 bucks. If you DO have a bad bearing I would recommend talking to Josh. He owns a shop called The Scooter Garage in North Carolina, and he also owns Scooter Invasion Forum.
Perhaps he will either lead you to the bearing tools or (I can't speak for him) he may be able to lend you the tools he has.
Triple Check.
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yeah just checked again and there really isnt any play in them that i can tell. they are in there tight and i tried them each way side to side up and down and they dont really move any. you can feel that you are trying to move them but that is about it.
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Good. I sent out the tester this morning. You should see it by the weekend I hope.
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Thanks man, i will keep you up to date and pm me at some point on how to take care of the shipping on it and any rental fee. another quick question when putting the flywheel back on do i use the impact for a light little tap or would just tightening down the bolts evenly pull it down tight enough the keyway will insure i have it in the right spot, also when putting the variator back on same question, thanks
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I tighten them both as much as I can by hand, and use blue Lok Tite. Once they are snug I hit them with a quick blast from the impact. I have seen LOTS of stripped treads on the nuts from over tightening, and LOTS of parts fall off from being too loose or no Lok Tite. Just a quick blast will do.. I included a return address card so you can paste it over the address card on the box. It cost 9.50 to send.
No rental fee. Just kick the first kid you see, and we are even. (do that AFTER you return mail it)
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ha gotcha, thanks will post with results questions
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With the spark plug out it should be pretty easy to spin the crank.
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True. BUT I actually wanted him to spin it with the plug in so he could feel for deflection in the bearings due to the compression. That's why I suggested using the flywheel for some leverage.
It is easier to feel when there is resistance. A dial indicator is actually the tool of choice but so be it.
If you cant RedNeck repair a China bike you might as well toss it.
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Zombie, thanks man leak down tester just arrived, I will be getting into it this week and will post with any questions/issues. thanks again man.
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Way cool.
No rush Bro. Just try to get it right.
If you want to Mod the bike down the road I can set you up w/ everything you need for anything from a 55MPH daily to a once a month 80MPH screamer. Anywhere from 400.00 ish to 3,000.00 ish
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hey quick question looks like the bike is holding six pounds for six minutes like the vid, when i ordered my new gaskets i forgot to order an exhaust gasket.....what can i use or do? do i just need to order another one? try to re-use the accordion type one? also I am wanting to put everything back together and try to fire it up, does the exhaust have to be hooked up for that? just anxious to see if what i did worked, thanks
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You can run it for a few moments without the pipe but I would not recommend it for a newly reassembled bike. If something is off or mis aligned you won't be able to hear it.
The second problem w/ that is the fuel charge will blow right out the manifold, and you will be running very lean.
What I have done for emergency exhaust gaskets is wrap the old one in five or six layers of teflon plumbers tape. That can take the heat until you can replace it.
I KNOW you are stoked to run it but it is better to wait till you have it properly sealed up (exhaust)
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cool man thanks alot, I will try the old gasket thing until the new one comes in and another question if I am having a carb issue and want to replace it I am fine with one that is not oem, but could not find any on line to fit my bike, do you know of any? thanks.
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Polini makes a 19mm that is a direct swap. SPI has them, and I am guessing around 40-60 bucks with an account.
The other option is to replace the intake manifold, and reed cage w/ a CT set. Then you can use any carb you like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-DIO-Racing-Intake-Power-intake-kit-4-valves-/231104867975?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ceec6e87&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-DIO-Racing-Intake-Power-intake-kit-4-valves-/231104867975?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ceec6e87&vxp=mtr)
Here is an OEM type direct swap carb as well...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-17mm-Carb-Carburetor-Honda-2-Stroke-50cc-Dio-50-SP-ZX34-35-SYM-Kymco-Scooter-/360662197721?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f92465d9&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-17mm-Carb-Carburetor-Honda-2-Stroke-50cc-Dio-50-SP-ZX34-35-SYM-Kymco-Scooter-/360662197721?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f92465d9&vxp=mtr)
The Polini carb will direct swap (for the Dio engines) BUT if you swap the intake, and go to a different type of carb you will also need to swap out the throttle cable, get rid of the oil injection pump, and get a new throttle cable.
Zx's are a PAIN in the ASS to get started modifying. But once you get it all converted they are fast as F_ck!
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cool man thanks so much...okay here is the deal, the exhaust fit in with the old gasket. I made it fit in the head first then the pipe came to really nice and even....(im very impatient...lol.) put it all back together minus the plastic farings or shrouds body panels ( hate dealing with those. after a few cranks on the starter with fresh battery from the 40.00 scoot....:) it fired up ....... success.....! thanks to you all. I have to put the air box on yet and the body to go ride it and make sure all is good and assuming i will need to play some with the carb adjustment. So far on the carb the air screw was from all the way in position one and a quarter turn out and not sure where the gas one is yet as it is running pretty decent not under a load yet but ran some rpms through it and it started to idle on its own. thanks alot zombie and I will be packing up the test kit this week, make sure you open the kit before you return it or store it as something in there is for you, thanks again
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Love ya already Super50.
I have you on my Xmas card list. Stick around for some of this late night posting crap, and trollin fun. It's like shooting monkeys in a barrel.
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okay....i knew i spoke to soon, so put the air box back on all the panels, the engine shrouds etc. now it wont start....? and when i pull the brake handle in to for the starter to work the brake light does not come on but the instrument cluster lights come on.......wtf....... was all looking forward to a light night neighborhood ride, any ideas on what might have happened?
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another quick post before i get killed for f-ing with scooter when there is going to be a party here soon..... ;D i think the light issue was from a battery that was a bit to big group size, put the original battery back in it today after charging it. lights worked fine and it started third try. ran around a little and all seemed good but then just shut down on me, would not restart at all had to push about 1/2 mile. let it sit for a little bit and cool some, not as much as I should have and it started and ran for about 10 seconds, then another no start.....ideas? thanks
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It sounds like a wiring issue. The brake light gets 12V off the battery/key switch. The ground wire is what gets switched at the lever. When you pull the lever it grounds making the light come on. That ground is also the ground for the starter relay. The starter will not crank unless the brake light is ON.
My GUESS is you either forgot to hook up the ground wire that attaches to the engine/frame or the ground is simply loose. I would look for that ground or run a new ground from the engine to the battery, and te frame.
The second MAYBE is the CDI/Stator. When either of them start going bad they usually will run for a short while until the heat generated causes a Fail. When they cool it will run again for a short time, and so on...
If it is a no crank issue when it wont start I suspect the ground. If it cranks but wont start it could be the ground wire to the engine OR the cdi stator.
Try re grounding everything first.
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ground seems to be fine, starting procedures are fine, the tail light operates as it should the starter cranks etc., when it is cold it starts and seems to run fine, when i get running for a while and assumably it is getting hot the bike then shuts down. I will double check the ground wires, what does the cdi look like etc, is that easy to fix? what is the stator? thanks
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the cdi is mounted under the seat pan/pet carrier. It is a cigarette pack size black plastic box.
These replace it with some easy re-wiring. They unlock the rev limiter, and add around 5MPH.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-Ignition-CDI-SCOOTER-Race-5-Pin-KYMCO-ZX-50-SA50-SR50-NB50-/161086185438?hash=item25817c1fde&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-Ignition-CDI-SCOOTER-Race-5-Pin-KYMCO-ZX-50-SA50-SR50-NB50-/161086185438?hash=item25817c1fde&vxp=mtr)
The stator is this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STATOR-KYMCO-ZX-50-FEVER-/251423734922?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8a05bc8a&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STATOR-KYMCO-ZX-50-FEVER-/251423734922?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8a05bc8a&vxp=mtr)
You can get one from Stadium Yamaha, and get 15% off as a forum member.
They both act exactly the same when they fail so I always replace both as a set.
That may be why the bike was laid up to begin with. I went thru 6 CDI's in two years before I started posting here.
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well i know for sure the crankshaft seals where bad as i was doing leak down testing they were bubbling soapy water, replaced them and the engine held pressure. before that i had to keep pumping the bulb to make any air come through as it would not even hold 2 psi. so that was my not getting fuel to carb issue and i would guess no start issue as it had that much of an air leak , once that was fixed and carb was semi tuned the scoot would run. today throughout the day a few times went into the garage and when the bike was cold hit the starter button and fired up each time with the first attempt. but when running down the road and i guess when it gets hot is when it shuts down. and it did that to me today this morning but have not ran it again since as i have not had time, but cold starts seem to be not an issue so far. and the goofy thing with the light last night i have no idea but the starter was working it was just the instrument cluster lights would come on instead of the brake light as normal....weird. but have not had that problem since i put the standard group size battery in it. It will kick start as well. again thanks for all of your help i would not have gotten this far!
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That thing with the Inst. lights coming on screams bad ground to me. Like the bike is using the resistance of the lights as the ground. The cold/no hot running is always electronic (cdi/stator) but I think you still have a bad ground. There should be a heavy wire (8 gauge) hooked up from the starter mounting bolt to the frame, and a second one from the frame to the battery. There is also a third thinner wire that is the harness itself.
Also check right next to the battery... There is a rubber cover that has a gang plug, and a few bullet connectors in side that cover. Make sure all those are clean, and tight. The bullet connectors quite often seem tight but are not. You may have to squeeze down the contacts before putting them together.
I don't mind helping at all. It's a 800-900 dollar bike when you get it running right.
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dude you have been a huge help...... I will check for all the grounds and everything sometime this week i hate messing with anything electrical as I am quite intimidated by it as i just dont really get it....but hey i think i will be good to go with your advice as i was intimidated at first to break open this scooter to start with but now i am feeling quite good about the work on it so far! So if i order that cdi box it is pretty simple to wire it into the old connections, I am a big fan of the plug and play as it makes it easy for electrical morons like me... :D but your saying if i need a new cdi box to get the amped up one right.
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For sure... There are a few plug, and play cdi's on ebay. One from Scooter assassins but it is double the price. The wiring guide is here on the forum when you are ready.
I was just looking for the post but I will remember what the colors are.
The stator is again... easy. You have to pull the flywheel (again), and there are two 8mm bolts + 2 more for the little trigger coil. You just unplug the old one, and plug the new one in.
All this crap is worth the effort. The bike will get around 80-100 MPG, and is a reliable little thing once you get it all updated.
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Nice man thanks so much will be checking all that stuff this week, also will be sending back the tester this week sometime as well.
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All is good my Brother. Keep us informed.
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okay zombie, your going to enjoy this. I have a no spark issue even when bike is cold, I checked ground from starter even took it off cleaned it up with some sandpaper made it all nice and shinny again along with the frame there. I checked every connection there is on the wiring and they were all tight and for the most part pretty clean. now I can not for the life of me find any other grounds wires at all the only one I see is the ground to the starter nothing else on the frame at all and nothing near the battery. I am assuming I should order up the cdi box correct, is there a way to test the stator or just order that too? thanks. I made a quick draw of the wire harness as I chased it coming out of the steering column and down the bike, but I didnt see any wires that would even be grounds they were all connected and the only loose wires I have are the positive for battery and the negative for battery, thanks cant post sketch it says to big and i dont know how to resize
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Alrighty then... The Green wires in the harness are ground. One of them should tie into the black that goes to the battery.
You can pick it up at any point and add it to either the frame connection or the black wire itself. I THINK it is grounded on the mount for the voltage rectifier. That is on a welded plate that is behind the front cowl on the steering head. That connection could be loose.
Chances are it is JUST the CDI but like I said I always replace both the CDI, and the Stator. Saves time because it is a 50/50 shot as to which.
The manual (zx 50) is in the Kymco Links thread on the second page. It's under General here.
To resize the Dwg. you can Rt click it, and you should see Edit". That should open it in Paint, and the top left will show Re-Size"
I think the forum takes either 128 or 98kb. I forget which so shoot for the lower one.
F'n scooters...
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need your opinion this cdi box.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-POWER-CDi-BOX-for-KYMCO-ZX50-zx-50-fever-/181264814321?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item2a343990f1&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-POWER-CDi-BOX-for-KYMCO-ZX50-zx-50-fever-/181264814321?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item2a343990f1&vxp=mtr)
or this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-Ignition-CDI-SCOOTER-Race-5-Pin-KYMCO-ZX-50-SA50-SR50-NB50-/161086185438?hash=item25817c1fde&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-Ignition-CDI-SCOOTER-Race-5-Pin-KYMCO-ZX-50-SA50-SR50-NB50-/161086185438?hash=item25817c1fde&vxp=mtr)
is the second one good for the 2002 bike i have ? thanks
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The first one is plug, and play.
The second one is just as good but we need to figure the re-wire,
I forget what the wires are but it is posted here somewhere...
I would spend the few extra bucks if you don't want to search the forum.
I have actually bought both, and there is no difference. If I weren't stoned/drunk/generally F'd up I would search.
Guess what.... All of the above. Usually.
Try zx 50 cdi... search or tzr or txr whatever it is. I know it's posted here somewhere.
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lol...gotcha man, no problem. thanks
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zombie, been caught up with work but your leak down tester is still on my work bench will be shipping it back out to you tomorrow, cant thank you enough for that and sorry it has taken me a while to get it back to you. I ordered the plug and play cdi box just to keep it simple for me. Will keep you posted on the progress and hopefully it will be up and running soon as it gets here.
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lol...gotcha man, no problem. thanks
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zombie, your tester should be to you soon, dont forget to look inside it, thanks again man!
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You're more than welcome.
I hope you didn't put a puppy in the box. People are ALWAYS sending me puppies.
Just once I'd like to get an Orangutan.
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thats funny, yeah i hope his water bowl stays upright during shipping....
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quick question.....was just reading some post on here and was wondering what is the best way to check the oil pump that it is working? should the line running into the carb from the "oil pump area" be full? in other words if i pull the hose off the carb that feeds the oil should it come pouring out? I have just noticed that during all of my trying to fix my scoot that my oil level has not gone down that much at all during prior use, have always made a habit of keeping the tank topped off though. but I just want to be sure I am getting proper oil flowing, thanks
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Looking at the pump from the left side of the engine there is a phillips head screw on the body of the pump. That screw is actually a drain/bleeder screw. You remove that screw, and the oil will slowly drip out of the hole letting you know oil is getting to the pump.
Sadly there is no way to monitor if the pump is actually working until you get a seize up of the engine. You will never notice the level going down on just a few 1 mile runs of the bike. The oil reserve should last approx 4 - 5 tanks of fuel or an average of 50 to one running ratio. At times like idle it goes as low as 100:1.
I felt better removing the pump, and Pre mixing but I have also only heard of one pump failure on any Kymco, and I think it was one of Batmans bikes so any number of things may have happened to cause the failure.
If you are ever unsure of the pump just do a spark plug check. The plug will be burnt white from the heat of no oil.
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sweet good deal man i will check that and monitor the plug, waiting on my cdi box to get here and hopefully it will fire up and i can ride for a while without issues, that other 4 stroke wildfire was a great buy, and runs perfect but man is it ever a cheapo scoot, small tires and rims, lousy brakes, shocks, very uncomfortable....and its a 2007.....the zx is 2002 but man so much more comfortable and has (when running) the awesome power band throughout the entire rpm line, love the 2 strokes. not complaining though cuz i cant for the money i spent on the wildfire. but it is a night and day difference. cant wait to get back on the kymco and ride in comfort!
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The ZX was built 2" taller in seat height than any other scooter available. It was, and still is the only comfortable 50cc scooter for adults.
That is the sole reason I liked the bike when I bought mine. I could actually sit on it, and not IN it.
Just so you know... The 4t can be done w/ a complete Mod kit 70 - 100cc for under 200.00
Once you get the 2t running I'm sure you will be interested...
I've taken quite a few cheepo China 4t's, and swapped out Kymco parts like forks/wheels/disc brakes, and made some decent scoots. You can always find 50cc 4t's parting out on Flea bay.
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The super fever I can stretch out as far as my bet&win!! We just consigned a zx with like 600km, wanted to snag it up so bad!
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Are you gonna pick it up for yourself? Out of curiosity... What is the dealer asking for it?
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The shop I work for was selling it, we ended up getting $1200 for it.
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Ask them to consign mine!! I'll ship it ANYWHERE, They can do the selling, alone, and make a piece. I'll stand behind the bike 100%%%%%%%%, and be right here to advise down the road for it. Sort of a Zombie Warranty.
If I put 1500. in my pocket... I'm happy. Split shipping w/ either the buyer or your shop. There's some money to be made off this bike. 300. finders fee. I'll be sure you are listed as the finder so I'm not accepting applications...
$$$$$ My friend... I'll share the love.
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Got the tester back Butch. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the GoldFish too. I'm gonna call him Butch Z. He smiled when I put him in a glass of water.
I thought you were really gonna send a puppy. ;D
Here's a Pict of Butch Z
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no problem and THANK YOU for lending it to me, very very cool of you to do so. I would not have gotten this far at all without this forum and your direct help, its awesome and very appreciated for sure. Just waiting for my cdi to get here. hopefully it will fire up and be ready to ride again.....Its such a fun little scooter. I will post my progress once it arrives and probably a bunch of other questions if or when new problems pop up.
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It's all good. I've been there too many times.
I m working on a project that has been thru two prior contractors, and the owner of the boat can't figure out why.The guy wants gold but is only willing to pay for silver. I'm selling him painted lead.
Point is we all need something, and sure as sh** someone has one.
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gotta love those type of customers.....sometimes its better to walk away from the work. I know when Im with a customer that you just know is goiing to be a complete pain in the ass......the price goes up and if i get the job great and if not....oh well. but the reality is we all have bills to pay so gotta take the good with the bad
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Its incredible you had 150 psi with a leaking crank seal, With leaking crank seals you should see half or less than half that. Also 150 psi is incredibly high for the stock kymco sc10as. From the factory theyre around 138 psi average. It takes a minimum of 100 psi to ignite a wet fart in these cylinders and anything below is done for and a waste of energy trying to make it ignite. Ive had 90 psi kymcos that would start but you had to kick it so fast you thought your leg would fall off.
Very strange to have 150 psi tho, only explanation for higher than new compression is carbon build up on the piston and head. And if thats the case youre going to have a lot of detonation. Higher the compression, more fuel needed to start.
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yeah the gauge was reading like 148-49, maybe i was doing the test wrong.... held throttle wide open, hit the start button and let it run for about five seconds or so, looked at the gauge. reset the gauge and repeated a few times. and 148-149 was the highest reading, the lowest was around 120 but that is only if i bumped the started and the piston probably only moved up and down once....... so what is the best way to get rid of the carbon build up with out taking it apart? I had the what i assume is the head off of the piston sleeve and the bottom of that underside where the spark plug hole is was pretty clean, so i cleaned it some more just to make it new looking and new gasket etc and back on it went. the top of the piston was brown-ish but maybe that was a layer of brown carbon, dont know. anyhow best way to clean it up? thanks
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Water. Hold the engine at a decent high rpm. and dribble water in front of the carb. The vacuum will pull it in.
What happens is the water steam cleans the combustion chamber.
My guess on the high compression is the excess oil injected from repeated no starts.
Wazzzz Up LoveMy! Your bikes suck!
Just messing Bro! I love ya!
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full report to come later this evening or tomorrow whenever I have a chance to really get some riding in....new cdi arrived put it on, fired up on the third try with starter button. ran it around a little bit everything seems to be running good so far. got the engine up to running temp rode about ten minutes or so and came back to check the plug.....so far so good as it is a bown-ish looking plug. so i dont think i am running to lean or it would be a white looking plug correct? will let you all know if the new cdi delivers any higher top end so far acceleration seems to be the same if not a tad slower.
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I dont think i will ever stop posting i think now i am addicted to my scooter....... ;D okay full report now, the plug is looking good it is a bownish tanish color so i dont think i am running to lean. the bike runs great and starts quickly. Maybe since it has been so long that i rode it and have been riding another scooter i am confused but the acceleration seems way off, way slower than I remembered it to be. when i pulled the variator and belt all looked good and the rollers were fine without any flat spots and the belt is pretty new less than 500 miles on it. The top speed I would say has been improved by about 3-5 mph average. what would I need to do next to bump it up a little better? anyway to mod the stock exhaust easily? new carb and intake? I am not looking to spend a bunch as money is a tad tight right now, but just thinking for future upgrades and any that can be done easily with little $$$$$'s thanks again for everyones input
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Going thru SPI you can get either a Malossi sport or a Polini Corsa BBK for under 200.00. If you just rejet your carb you can get a much stronger take off, and 3-5MPH better top end.
You can build up in stages... Pipe/carb, then get into the CVT, then perhaps an intake set up.
I ran a steady 50 on just a malossi sport, and a set of gears. Added a Technigas pipe, and Delorto carb for 55MPH, and 60 top.
Glad it's running.
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me too man, and it is running thanks to you! you pretty much walked me through the whole thing and the lending of the leak down tester.....awesome. now i am starting to get into it some and not near as intimidated as i first was, so at some point I am sure i will be ordering some upgrades. but it has been running strong since i replaced the cdi box. i can actually hear it when it "allows" the higher revs, its like a switch is hit and the revs go up and the speed increases.
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It's all god sir! The reward for all this is seeing guys that were scared of this crap turn into posters that can help others.
I know what it's like to be left out in the cold, and I can't help but to offer a hand where ever I can. I bet I am happier than you that your bike is fixed.
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been a while since i have had a chance to get online here, but just an update scoot is running great been riding as often as i can and so far so good, getting around 45-48 mph tops. have not really been pushing it hard though that often. just happy at this point that it is comfortable and dependable.....now that i typed this i am waiting to see what goes wrong next....lol thanks again to everyone who helped out greatly appreciated.
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update.....been another long while since posting....another thanks to all here for the help scooter is still running good. I am wanting to do some additional mods but it is the typical story......when you have the time to do them you dont have the money....and when you have a little extra money to spend you dont have the time to do it. anyhow scooter is running good, thanks all
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Once again you made my day. Anything we can do to help around here... we will.