KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: HOHO on June 06, 2014, 11:51:49 AM
-
Has anyone out there had a similar problem. When starting the X500 I get a "poof" where it sounds like it's going to ignite and then it just turns over not wanting to start. I tried this for 20 minutes with the same result and couldn't get it started. I had it picked up and brought to the garage (also had a grinding sound when at low speed) and it's been there a week and they can't find the problem. The first day it got there they turned the key and it started right up so they couldn't find any problem because it was transitory but working fine then. The day I was supposed to go pick it up they tried it again and it started. Tried it one more time and it hasn't started since. He seems to be stumped. Any ideas what it could be? Has someone had this problem before. Please Help. Thanks
-
Air filter needs to be swapped?
-
Is it fuel injected? The RI xciting is so damn picky to how you start it, you HAVE to wait to let the fuel pump prime (usually about 8 seconds). And that bike NEEDS a very happy battery. The YTX14 is boarder line too small for the 500cc engine.
-
Iv got the same problem HOHO
before i bought it they put in a new starter motor
iv bought a new battery , bought a new battery manager to trickle charge the battery , tried the vacuume lock trick , checked the air filter , all i have to do now is either take it to the shop or pull the fairing off and and start looking at the fuel filter and pump myself
im really disapointed with this bug because now it only starts 1 out of every 4 or 5 days >:(
-
i forgot to mention that i used an injector cleaner and took it for a really long ride
it still wouldnt start the next day :'(
-
As an experiment today , i hooked up the scooter to my running car with jumper cables , still no luck but that rules out battery issues
i have also found what might be the right terminology for this issue - "crank no start"
it is often related to cars with heat problems but that seems to be the opposite for me , when i do get the scooter started it will run all day
when it rests for a while like overnight is when i wont start again .
-
Could be a failing IAC (idle air control) It's a circuit that acts like an auto choke. I would check for voltage there first. If there is no voltage then it could be the Temp sender has failed or the ECM.
Do you have a service manual?
-
First off NEVER hook a scooter up to a running car. Lucky you didn't fry anything. Second try what I said before and let me know if anything changes. Turn on the key, wait 10-15 seconds for fuel system to prime, then try starting. If it doesn't start don't just try cranking more, rest the fuel system by turning off the key then back on then wait 10 seconds again. Let me know if this starts. I had a customer that had the EXACT same thing happening with his RI. I could start it every time, him, not so much. We ended up consigning it for him, next owner had no issues starting it. With the Xciting, if it doesn't start first crank it's not going to start. Key off key on try again.
-
Betting and losing
"never hook up a scoot to a running car" ,,,,, good advice , wish id heard it sooner . luckly nothing terible happened
i guess i also missread your last post about starting sequence
i have been letting it "prime" before cranking all the time , mostly because i thought it might be a fuel priming issue
i will go try that right now -- key on, 10 secs, crank - key off ,,,, key on, 10 secs, crank - key off
(bear with me a moment)----------
ok on the second try it allmost caught , the again on the sixth , i crank for about 4-6 seconds and giving about ten - fifteen secs beofre trying again.
i gave up on the tenth
Hi Zombie , yes iv got a service manual that i found on a french site , all the pdfs were named french but the insides were all english , i just renamed them to what the inside titles were
is the IAC an easy access ?
-
Look at this link... http://www.shopwest60cycle.com/OEMPartfinder.htm#%2fKymco_USA%2fLDA0AB_MXU_500i_IRS%2fE09_-_THROTTLE_BODY%2c_ASSY.%2f04%7c%7e26%7c%7e0005%2f04%7c%7e26%7c%7e0019 (http://www.shopwest60cycle.com/OEMPartfinder.htm#%2fKymco_USA%2fLDA0AB_MXU_500i_IRS%2fE09_-_THROTTLE_BODY%2c_ASSY.%2f04%7c%7e26%7c%7e0005%2f04%7c%7e26%7c%7e0019)
Part number 39700 is your Iac. Test for voltage by turning on the key with a digital volt meter across the wire terminals. Do NOT use a test light or analog type meter.
When the bike is cold it should show a positive voltage. I am not sure if it will show if the bike is warm or exactly what the voltage should be. Maybe the manual states this but there should be voltage.
You can also remove the Iac, and verify if the plunger is moving. Read the manual to see if they describe this step.
The second thing you can try is remove the Maf sensor (#39500), and spray off the two wire elements at the tip with some Carb Cleaner (spray can stuff). There should be TWO tiny light bulb type wires in the tip of that sensor. Sometimes they simply get dirty or one of the wires breaks. They sense the intake air. If that sensor fails the computer does not think the bike is trying to start.
Just to round it all off the TPS (#34300) should show somewhere around 0.5 volts. I believe that is a ONE wire sensor but maybe not. If it is two wire just measure across the two. If it is One wire measure the wire as + voltage, and ground the meter to the engine.
Taking out the pet carrier is needed to get to all of this stuff.
-
Hi , are there any 500 fairing removal videos ? im scared of breaking the tabs
im still waiting for some bits from the guy at the shop , air filter oil filter spark plug and o rings ,
i bought a digital volt meter just the other day and im getting ready to take the scooter apart and look for the bits explained by Zombie
zombie what do you mean by "pet carrier" ?
im reasonably handy with a spanner and have torque wrenches so i dont see any harm comming from me in the engine department
-
Pet carrier is the term for the under seat storage compartment. I believe the only tools you will need are a 10mm/8mm/Phillips head driver. I use 1/4" drive tools only on the small hardware. No 3/8's or 1/2" stuff.
This vid isn't much help but it may put you at ease some. It's easy common sense stuff but it can be aggravating.
Removing most of the plastics and adjusting valves on my Eagle Craft Verano 150 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL3asZFthbk#ws)
Same for this one... I just put them up to calm your nerves...
Kymco Downtown 300i battery removal and a look at the engine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMxg4hCqU1M#ws)
-
Nice vids , thankyou very much ,i found a little disturbing vid though , a guy in i think africa was having the same problem and had to finaly get the motor replaced after 3 years in and out of the shop , warning this vid is painfull to listen to , he REALLY needs to charge his battery , anyway he has 4 vids all about the same problem
his accent is almost australian but slightly different---------- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFJFEeFYmhM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFJFEeFYmhM)
-
That video is restarted and shows exactly how you shouldn't treat an x500. These bikes WON'T START WITH A LOW BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!! Period. Also his bike sound f&%$#@ up other than the battery too.
-
It did sound like one cylinder had compression while the other did not.
-
Hi everyone , i have a lot of time on my hands at the moment so iv been scouring the net looking for possible answers to my problem
i found this image , do you think this may be the problem ?
even if its a hint or a part of the problem , its good to have a lead
http://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/diagrams/201205290958170.Xciting%2050_Emblem_Stripe.jpg (http://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/diagrams/201205290958170.Xciting%2050_Emblem_Stripe.jpg)
-
Those stickers aren't gonna fix themselves
-
start over. Details!!!
-
lol bettingandlosing
my point is ,,,,, every time i fill up i fill all the way up to the cap , so mabey iv damadged the evaporative emission control system , you see now ?
on the sticker it states that if you do that it will promote hard starting and engine hesitation
-
Ya fixed it. YAYYYYY!
There I Fixed It! (No You Didnt) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxkgn2tJNXg#ws)
I think this is really more for Blue.
-
yeah , good one zombie
-
It would be an hour well spent deleting the emissions system. Not that hard to do and will eliminate all possibility that is the problem.
-
thanks for the advice bettingandlosing , when you say "delete" do you mean remove ?
-
Yeah rip all that junk out, block off any vacuum lines that were for the emissions system. It cleans up your engine bay too, less random lines everywhere.
-
If you live in an emissions testing state ( ie:Ct.) you can turn the idle mix screw in to induce a lean running condition. That will get you past emissions. Then simply turn it back up to normal running.
For the tree huggers... It's just a scooter not a soccer mom SUV.
-
I didn't even know any states test bikes/scooters. That's pretty lame.
-
NY does cars I'm not sure about bikes. I posted CT but I forget. It's been awhile.
-
It sounds like 24 is getting closer, but what happened to the OP, HOHO?
-
HOHO is tangled up in wires on the garage floor. Something about Damn Bike...
-
Just a couple of quick questions , ,
if it dosnt start after spraying starter spray into the air intake , then its not a fuel issue , is that right ?
if the problem was an earth leak , wouldnt the battery be flat very fast after a period of no positive charge ?
-
Starting Fluid should kick the engine if it has spark, and compression. Correct.
The battery can get a full charge but still have no ground on the engine. There should be one ground on the engine that goes to the frame, and both of these should attach to the battery.
If the engine is not grounded it will not spark.
-
Unplug and remove spark plug. Plug spark plug back into coil/spark plug wire, touch/hold bottom of the plug (bottom tip where electrode is), up against engine head or where plug hole is to ground plug. Have someone (with side stand up & left brake engaged), crank engine. If u can see spark? Problem is in fuel system. BEWARE! >:( :( :o :'( Hold plug by plug wire i few inches from spark plug cap or you will get a bad shock!!!! :-*
-
Thankyou Sissy , thankyou Zombie
that goes some way toward a resolution .
at the moment i have pulled the plastic off of the sides , after removing the seat and "pet box" and breaking one plastic tab
i have followed the wires from the side stand up to its connection and disconected it , , but then it became too late in the evening to do anymore . its winter here and the days are VERY short
so tomorow afternoon after work i will try to short the wires on the side stand sensor , , one thing at a time and hopefully ill be good before next summer
im still waiting on bikebiz in parramatta (new south wales Australia) to call me to come pick up the bits i ordered from them a couple of weeks ago,
Any word from HoHo ?? i feel like iv Hijacked his /her post !!!!!, Im sorry HoHo i really hope you have an answer to your problem soon , and i hope it works out to be the same problem I have ,, for obvious reasons
have a great weekend usa dudes ! , i have to work through it
From 24
-
Keep us informed, and e are all happy to help (where we can)
-
Well the scooters running and im looking a tad stupid , after ASS-uming the plug was ok because they replaced that and the coil before i bought it , it wasnt
when i started getting into stripping out the most obvious parts including testing all the cutoff/saftey switches i could find, i pulled the spark plug and it was really black and oily
what is intriging though is that the diode<--? in the middle of the plug was burnt down to below the spark plug thread and had created an enormous gap
the new plug looks like normal so im glad im not imagining the size of the gap.
iv only had the bike running for a couple of months before i started having trouble
SO ,, what would cause the spark plug center to burn down like that ? do you think the new coil might be the wrong type ?
i forgot to look at the part no. on it before putting the pet box back on
AND i wonder why they would have replaced the coil in the first place ?
-
Wow that's crazy, post a picture if you didn't toss it already. Google "plug chop chat" look for one that looks like how yours failed. Not a good sign on a four stroke. Maybe they didn't replace yours, and it's really a very old one?
-
For the plug to be black is sort of normal on an older 4t. Oil consumption is the main culprit.
I can only think of two things here...
One is a burnt down electrode is caused mainly by lean running. There are NO coils available that would run on your CDI AND burn down the tip.
Two is it is possible that the rings are worn or a bad head gasket is allowing sooo much oil to enter the cylinder that the lean running is counter acted and keeping the bike alive.
Do you see black or white smoke from the exhaust?
Ride the bike for a few miles, and pull the plug. It should be dark but not black. Post up what it looks like, and we'll take it from there.
-
So wierd betting and losing ,, i just had a chat with my neighbor who is a bike mechanic (who refuses to talk to me on the best of days)(ehhh who knows why??)
who said that just because they said they changed it dosnt mean they did .
but IF they did then only 4-6 weeks of sporadic use seems like a very short life for a spark plug
now the damn plug is hiding from me , i tried to find it to show my neighbor but couldnt find it ,, but ill have a picture up here within the next few days
btw , its just a standard cr8e plug
i watched how to test the coil on youtube and my reading was high 18 and high 5
but the vids are different one guy says thats good while anothr says thats a dead coil
the manual dosnt mention what the impedance or continuity should be on the coil
iv left some of the fairing off to make disassembly easier next time just to see of the bike keeps going longer than 6 weeks without starting issues
for now though , im on the road again SO .brm brm
thankyou for all of your help , ill stick around though if you wouldnt mind , this forum has been a great help to me !
-
will do Zombie !!
-
Please stick around. There's strength in numbers, and when the new AXY posts up we all will count on you to draw him out in the open. Once he is exposed... Game Time!
A bunch of us spend quite a fair amount of time here cause there is always someone willing to help, and share a few laughs with. The more the merrier Bro!
Kings Of Leon - Back Down South (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBOuqyqmtJk#ws)
-
Awesome !!!!! i tried to start the scooter today , , no spark
back to the drawing board :(
EDIT :::: hrm i just tried again and she fired up first time
Just a point of interest , somtimes the speedo stops working , maybey theres a loose wire behind the front assembly
anyway on my next weekend i will start pulling it apart again , and this time i`ill take the front off too
-
Check all the connections/connectors. They will often times LOOK like they are tight when they are really just sort of touching. Especially the bullet type connectors from the stator to the CDI. I generally crimp those down before pushing them together for a good tight fit.
Spray some PB blaster into your Kill switch too. It may be sort of sticking.
-
Thanks for the tip Zombie , but uh just what is pb blaster ? is it like wd40 ? :)
-
It's exactly like wd but 10000000 times better. It's a spray lube but it has ingredients that last. WD evaporates in short order. WD is a Temp sort of thing.
Pb gives me 1000000 dollars every time I post it soooooo. Really it is better. It STINKS on your skin but that should prove it.
-
Peanut blaster jelly time
-
I have a new best friend!