KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 9 => Topic started by: insane2170 on June 12, 2014, 04:49:05 PM
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Hi!,
Recently found a hidden bike at our Victoria BC Rally and it turns out to be an 07 lc Super 9!!!
I added a techni gas pipe, malossi 70cc bbk, and some sweet lighting!
Here's my problem. When I ride there is a little bit of play in the speedometer cable causing a rubbing between the metal cable itself and the outer plastic casing. If I could somehow keep the cable pulled up into the HUD display the sound would go away.
This isn't something that is broken but more of a common engineering problem from what the Canadian Kymco importer tells me.
Has anyone found a working solution to this?
-Lubing with graphite.
-Gluing/taping around either end to stick the cable in place.
-Adding some type of spacer to either end to push up the cable.
Thanks for any useful advice and access to this forum!
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Hi!,
Recently found a hidden bike at our Victoria BC Rally and it turns out to be an 07 lc Super 9!!!
I added a techni gas pipe, malossi 70cc bbk, and some sweet lighting!
Here's my problem. When I ride there is a little bit of play in the speedometer cable causing a rubbing between the metal cable itself and the outer plastic casing. If I could somehow keep the cable pulled up into the HUD display the sound would go away.
This isn't something that is broken but more of a common engineering problem from what the Canadian Kymco importer tells me.
Has anyone found a working solution to this?
-Lubing with graphite.
-Gluing/taping around either end to stick the cable in place.
-Adding some type of spacer to either end to push up the cable.
Thanks for any useful advice and access to this forum!
"Quacking" scooter- Cool!!
Could we get a video..... with sound --of this?!
(I would not fix this if I were you......too cool :) )
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There is a teflon sleeve inside the cable sheath that is worn thru. What you are hearing is the core rubbing into the metal casing of the sheath.
Just replace it, and save the old core.
Please do make the vid. I want to hear it "quack" too
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..my front suspension is making more of a ..not quack, but more of a goose ..honk sound..
..I've lubed the front shock rods..didn't help...so, before I pull off the plastics, any idea what it might be?
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I wanted to put up a "your mom" joke but...
Its water inside the rods at the bottom. Say hi to mom.
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So I went and replaced the entire speedo cable and it still quacks.
Kymco guy was calling me a stupid cow for buying it in the first place since he had told me it wasn't the cable.
Seems like it would be the speedometer port in the HUD somehow.
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So I went and replaced the entire speedo cable and it still quacks.
Kymco guy was calling me a stupid cow for buying it in the first place since he had told me it wasn't the cable.
Seems like it would be the speedometer port in the HUD somehow.
You actuallyshould have KNOWN if the noise was from the cable or the speedo. It's a magnetic cup that spins around a pick up in the cluster.
That was a quick purchase by the way... I don't believe it. Just sayin' Mooooo
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It's a magnetic cup that spins around a pick up in the cluster.
Can you clarify? so the cup is spinning and somehow causing the sound?
Can't I just open it up n spray it all with jigaloo or graphite?
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The end of the cable slides into an actual "cup" shaped steel piece. That "cup" is supported in a plastic housing that usually has a teflon bushing.
The Cup spins with the cable at the same rpm. Inside this cup sits a ferrite magnet that is directly connected to the speed needle.
That magnetic field tries to "grab" the cup but cannot so what happens is the magnets weight keeps it stationary or barely stationary, and the faster the cup spins the further the needle moves before slipping.
If the noise is in the cluster then it MUST be at the cup or the cups bushing. The needle assembly barely moves.
I used to repair auto speedos for AC Delco YEARS ago. When the cup "Growled" I had to replace the entire plastic housing. I don't know about lubing them as a long term repair.
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Ok well I opened up what I could of my speedo housing just now and made things worse.
I lubed the outside of the cup and inside the needle housing with jigaloo.
Now it says I go 80 when I do 30...and quacks.
Yay me, looking for a new or used assembly.
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I'm sure you can fix it w/ some time to figure what it does. The cluster is still available, and I would suggest NEW. The used ones will not be far behind yours.
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I have a couple Honda dio speedometers with the same cluster types.
Many parts are cross compatible with super 9s.
I will try a transplant tomorrow.
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I'm sure you can fix it w/ some time to figure what it does. The cluster is still available, and I would suggest NEW. The used ones will not be far behind yours.
Mr Z,
I am the new owner of a Cyclon BigByte 50ccXRTZ-2....So, to save many $$$'s on derestricting my pink bike I can gain 50 MPH by replacing speedo cable like this person?! YES? This is great news.!! Part # please for speedier speedo?
Bubba's Kid, Orlando
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Ok so I don't know what the above post is about and why people have to jack my thread but for those in the future who own a Kymco Super 9 or have a quacking scooter the solution is as follows.
1. Remove the front axle bolt and axle.
2. Slide the speedo cable boot out from the wheel.
3. Add 2$ of grease all up inside that ..thing*
4. Reassemble everything.
* You might be missing a thin gasket on the inside which is why the speedo *tumbler is moving in and out a bit.
So I spent 350$ learning this 2$ lesson after messing up a speedometer unit and buying a new cable for nothing.
All it needed was grease and maybe the thin gasket which was missing inside the boot.
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glad you figured it out.
The way I got my bike above 80 was to simply paint a copy of the needle at 82MPH. Once I was around 30MPH (top speed) I looked down, and low and behold I was actually hitting 82MPH.
It works every time as long as you know exactly when to look.
It's cheaper than a second hand cable too Buba's Kid.
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glad you figured it out.
The way I got my bike above 80 was to simply paint a copy of the needle at 82MPH. Once I was around 30MPH (top speed) I looked down, and low and behold I was actually hitting 82MPH.
It works every time as long as you know exactly when to look.
It's cheaper than a second hand cable too Buba's Kid.
Took a snap of a Ducati Monster speedo today. Will copy & paste on my LIKE....cause I've seen people snooping while I'm in the grocer's. (That 240MPH speedo face and the little Italian flags I pasted over the Made in China stickers are pretty cool performance accessories.)
Bubba's Kid
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I actually have a 90MPH speedo from a Yamaha 250 installed on my ZX 50. That's not a joke. It took 2 months to get the proper gear to match the tire diameter (not the wheel diameter). CynYo from Scooter Alley had one cut for me.
Yes people do freak out when the bike is "cruising" at 70MPH on Hwy. 98
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I actually have a 90MPH speedo from a Yamaha 250 installed on my ZX 50. That's not a joke. It took 2 months to get the proper gear to match the tire diameter (not the wheel diameter). CynYo from Scooter Alley had one cut for me.
Yes people do freak out when the bike is "cruising" at 70MPH on Hwy. 98
A kitchen chair doing 70 on the highway will get a lot of attention, too. And the chair has more stability with its longer wheelbase.
(On retainer by the parents of youngsters with a 50cc scoot who visit this forum....Stig)
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I extended the wheel base 3" to equal the length of three bar stools.
The stools are a joke but the extension is not. I took modifying the bike very seriously.
Now... Lets just say one of those "kids" tries to copy my bike. That "kid" pulls out in front of me, and I SLAM into him at 65ish MPH.
Upon inspection of what is left of the kids bike it is found he "copied" my build. Could I call you to sue his parents for being stupid enough to fund an attempt to copy a Zombie bike... or would that be a conflict of interest due to your retainer status.
Just wondering because it is either you or Carmine. They don't want Carmine involved.
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I wanted to put up a "your mom" joke but...
Its water inside the rods at the bottom. Say hi to mom.
..sso, how do I eliminate it...seems to be getting worse...
..mom says hey lover... :-*
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All it needed was grease and maybe the thin gasket which was missing inside the boot.
..my sound seem to be from the shocks, but thanks for the info, insane! 8)
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There is a phillips head drain screw at the bottom of each leg. Just pull the screws, and slam down on the bars.
You will have to pull the caps off the forks to refill them. I forget how much fluid they take but I would add 1 tablespoon of Brake Fluid to each to soften the seals. You most likely got the water in there from condensation but swelling the seals never hurts.
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There is a phillips head drain screw at the bottom of each leg. Just pull the screws, and slam down on the bars.
You will have to pull the caps off the forks to refill them. I forget how much fluid they take but I would add 1 tablespoon of Brake Fluid to each to soften the seals. You most likely got the water in there from condensation but swelling the seals never hurts.
..alright then.. sounds easy enough... thanx mi ermano!
..before I bought it, the scoot sat for several years with the front section intermittently exposed to the elements...
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When I pulled the ZX forks apart they were full of rust in the bottom of the dampners. I had to replace both forks.
A few tips if you want to build them up a bit... I cut two spacers out of stainless pipe that fit into the tubes on top of the springs. (10mm spacers) That pre loads them a bit more. I also drilled the dampners to 1/8" to quicken the response. It's been awhile but I think it was 8wt oil I used.
All that stuff made them stiffer, and faster. They will actually follow a washboard road now where before they would collapse further on each bump till you slowed down, and let them re-bound.
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I dunno about building them up, so much...I'm more concerned with stability and flexibility during city cornering.. they seem non-responsive and stiff now...
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It's the heavy oil (20wt), and the tiny orifice in the dampners that make them like that.
Just changing the oil wt will be a HUGE gain in response.
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That's probably what I need to do then.. drain and replace... What wt oil you reckon I should re-fill with?
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8wt fork oil. Any bike shop will have it. I think the Manual has the amount. It has to be measured exactly or the forks either won' move (too much) or they will use the oil, and collapse suddenly (too little)
8wt is thinner than OEM so they will react faster just by changing the grade
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..alright then and yeah the manual specifies...I'm going to have to do it...her front end is fine down the long road, but sucks at cornering...