KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => People 250 => Topic started by: MooseMax on September 21, 2014, 08:35:32 PM
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Hi all. I just read through dozens of posts going back to 2008!
I just bought a P250 for $1900 from a shop. It runs fine except the battery drains after 2-3 days of riding. The voltage across the battery is only about 12.4 at any RPM, but the shop said anything over 12 volts is fine! Everyone on the web says it should be around 13-14 volts. Anyway, i think the problem is the stator. Two pairs of stator wires had low voltage (3.5 and 11 v) and high resistance (4.6 ohms, instead of 1.6-2.5 per the manual). The regulator/rectifier tests fine, and the battery is fine. The bike is still under warranty so i'll bring it back, but i suspect they will downplay the issue again. :-\
I have a few questions. I'd like to add running lights up front for extra safety, but i'm unsure where to wire them to, and what wattage is safe to use. Any suggestions are welcome. I was thinking of something inexpensive like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-CLEAR-AMBER-3-LED-SURFACE-MT-MARKER-CLEARANCE-LIGHT-CHROME-COVER-TRAILER-/301097622016 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-CLEAR-AMBER-3-LED-SURFACE-MT-MARKER-CLEARANCE-LIGHT-CHROME-COVER-TRAILER-/301097622016)
or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Yellow-12-LED-trailer-clearance-lights-camper-12volt-stud-mount-w-plug-/261464876908 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Yellow-12-LED-trailer-clearance-lights-camper-12volt-stud-mount-w-plug-/261464876908)
Eventually i'd like to put a red strip light on the rear rack too.
I'd also like to remove the side stand switch, so i can warm up the bike on the side stand. Is it just as simple as unplugging the switch?
By the way, i noticed the handlebars shimmy when relaxing my grip on the bars (basically hands-free). Is that normal for this model? I never had that with my Honda Elites, so i wonder if something is out of alignment. The rims have a balancing weight on them, and Heidenau tires, oddly enough. There is no top case.
Ok, enough questions. I'm off to shave down the sides of the seat foam, so i can get my heels on the ground.. :)
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LOL...
Welcome to the fray
You're right on the charging issue. The bar shimmy may be due to a loose bearing race on top of the tree. It's no big deal to adjust but it MUST have some free play to be safe. Like a wheel bearing in a car. The adjuster should be hand tightened to the point the bearing does not turn freely, and then backed off to allow free steering, and minuscule play. That's where you lock it down, and re-check.
Your stator puts out 55 w RMS, and 75 Peak (10 seconds load). Adding LED's is a good idea, and swapping out all your bulbs for LED's is better. The flasher relay also must be swapped for an electronic unit that costs around 10 bucks US.
have you always asked so many f'n questions? LOL
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I'm going through the same thing, low charging. They are wrong, anything over 13v is ok but static battery voltage on s good battery is roughly 12.6 so if its less the battery is not being charged. On the people 250 they all shake when you don't keep a firm grip. The stator is kinda a biotch it's actually under the engine side cover.
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I'm going through the same thing, low charging. They are wrong, anything over 13v is ok but static battery voltage on s good battery is roughly 12.6 so if its less the battery is not being charged. On the people 250 they all shake when you don't keep a firm grip. The stator is kinda a biotch it's actually under the engine side cover.
Does the People 250S have the shimmy as well? I have been eyeballing the N.O.S at the dealer lately.
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Yes for the most part, i have not owned one but driven many working on Kymcos. Most if not ask wobble pretty bad with one or no hands. Great bikes, you just can't no hand it LOL
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The bar shimmy may be due to a loose bearing race on top of the tree. It's no big deal to adjust but it MUST have some free play to be safe. Like a wheel bearing in a car. The adjuster should be hand tightened to the point the bearing does not turn freely, and then backed off to allow free steering, and minuscule play. That's where you lock it down, and re-check.
Sounds like the same process as a bicycle headset. I'll check if it's tight.
Thanks for the tip about the flasher relay. I assume it can take any generic 12 v relay that doesn't require a minimum load. The headlights are pretty dim, so hopefully LED is brighter. Which headlight do you use?
have you always asked so many f'n questions? LOL
I try to ask the maximum number legally allowed. By the way, does anyone know where to get more Met-ins for my Met-in box? OEM is preferred. ;D
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"Sounds like the same process as a bicycle headset. I'll check if it's tight."
Exact same process. The only difference between the two is Bikes run bearing cages, and Kymcos do not.
They have dozens of tiny, individual BBs, and are a ROYAL pain if you have to open the race.
" I assume it can take any generic 12 v relay that doesn't require a minimum load. "
Nope! They need an electronic flasher made for LED's. You can get a 2 wire flasher on Flea Bay for 5 bucks, or if your bike is three wire they are under 10 bucks.
"Which headlight do you use?"
On one bike I glassed a pair of "projection lamps" running LED's into the front cowl, and the other bike has an old Sportster head lamp that I changed the socket, and installed an LED.
These are what I use...
Oddly enough I have never had a Met in my met-in. Go figure~
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For the met in light go to superbrightleds.com and browse the glove box light section. I got a 5w led glove box light for the seat to tune the carb at night and it's fantastic. Best of all if the seat isn't closed all night or day the battery stays good.
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I thought i'd post an update, since this forum has been kinda slow.
The shop agreed that the stator was faulty and will replace it, along with (i think) the rotor too, "to avoid future problems".
I ordered a pair of LED running lights, which i'll mount near the headlights. Oddly enough, there two 8 mm threaded holes already in the metal, exactly where running lights would go.. so i think Kymco changed their mind during production. Weird. Anyway, if the lights work well, i'll post the results.
(http://i.imgur.com/rLKn75m.jpg)
And here's the seat that i shaved down. I couldn't get staples in, so i used screws. Should be easier to remove if need be.
(http://i.imgur.com/6DoLdCU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IWrvDBS.jpg)
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Cool running lights! And yeah a seat chop on that bike is a must, the key to getting staples in is a good staple gun and you have to have sport behind the section you are stapling down like a block of wood or plastic. Good deal getting that stator replaced for free, it's an expensive repair on the people 250 and you have to drop the motor haha. I bet they will regret doing it for free.
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Good deal getting that stator replaced for free, it's an expensive repair on the people 250 and you have to drop the motor haha. I bet they will regret doing it for free.
Just got it back - they said they spent "all day" fixing it. Poor guys. I put in the good word for them on Yelp.
That's why i don't mind paying a little more and buying scooters from a shop instead of Craigslist.
Here's the running lights. Not bad for $9 on Ebay. They are wired into the high beam headlamp. I didn't use a relay, but i will if they cause problems.
I ordered some orange film to cover them. I've been reading that orange running lights make motorbikes more conspicuous against car lights.
(http://i.imgur.com/1wjLSMO.jpg)
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My 2010 250S does not wobble !!!! Bought new at end of 2011. MET IN sucks! I bought a SHORAI lithium battery so no dead battery when I am ready to ride.
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My 2010 250S does not wobble !!!! Bought new at end of 2011. MET IN sucks! I bought a SHORAI lithium battery so no dead battery when I am ready to ride.
Have you gone no hands?
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I have those same lights on the forks of my 4T scooter. That's the bike that now has the Sportster head lamp on it. I mounted it where you see the horn in the pict.
What I like about the lights on the forks is the fact they shine where you are steering, and not in a straight line.
I did have one of them go bad after about a year... It filled w/ water, and I never bothered to drill a hole to drain it. Sooo I would recommend drilling a 1/16th" hole in the bottom of the case to drain any water that gets in there.
Also a relay will draw more power than the lights so don't bother with one.