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Scooters - 50cc => Super 9 => Topic started by: TheAmishSasquatch on June 02, 2015, 07:02:54 PM
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Hello fellow super 9 junkies. It's your local forum Bigfoot here with a quick DIY. Let me preface by saying yes I'm aware the design could have been more creative and better looking, but that wasnt really the goal for this exercise. I wanted to perform this mod using only NON-specialized tools that are common to most everyday mechanics/hobbiest's. With that said I will include alternative tools that could be used if you are so fortunate to have access to. The list of materials used in this demonstration are:
1. Stock clutch bell
2. Bench vise (not required)
3. Angle grinder w/cutting wheel (Dremmel can be used, more on that later)
4. Dremmel style rotary tool with various sanding drums, Dimond ginding bits, Dimond cutting discs
5. JB weld epoxy (Real welder if available)
6. High temp paint of your choosing (I used Ford Engine grey 500°)
7. Socket set, screw drivers, pliers, etc.. as needed to take CVT cover & clutch bell on/off.
8. Fine tip sharpie pen
9. Small strait edge or compass
10. Safety glasses
Let us assume the the CVT cover and clutch bell have already been removed. First thoroughly clean the clutch bell to remove any gime/grease. Next lay out a design on the clutch bell using your sharpie pen and appropriate measuring devices. Once the design has be made and will not weaken the structural integrity of the bell, place the clutch bell in a bench vise with any means available to ensure the edges/face doesn't get scored up. Once secured in the vise and you have proper eye protection, use your angle grinder w/cutting wheel to make your rough cuts. An air operated riciprocating saw would be ideal here. Once your rough cuts are made the tedious work begins. Since the grinding wheel I used was too large at 4.5in dia, the are several over cuts in places I don't want them to be. This is where the JB weld (or real welder come into play). I started on the hub area first as I knew there wouldn't be any more cutting or shaping to this area. Using the JB weld epoxy, fill in the over cuts. Don't worry about excess epoxy as it will be sanded flush later. Once the epoxy has set up for 10 mins or so, you can now work with the piece without making a mess. The next step is by and far the most important and time consuming. Using your dremmel, begin removing the areas of metal that were not first removed during the rough cut process. I alternated between a course grit sanding drum, corse grit Dimond grinder bit, and a Dimond cutting/grinding wheel. As it turns out the sanding drum was most effective for removing larger amounts of material while also providing a smooth surface free of snags and bur's that can really hurt your little digits. After several hours, you should be done grinding/sanding and ready to finish up. Once the metal removal is done you can now fill all the other over cuts from the first rough cut, using your JB weld. Once the epoxy has set 10-15 mins, use your dremmel with Dimond cutting disc (for edges/corners) & sanding drums (for larger/flat surfaces) and remove any excess epoxy left over from filling. After you have removed all the extra epoxy and are satisfied with the end result, you are now ready to clean the clutch bell and thoroughly dry the part before painting. Using several light coats of paint instead of one heavy coat, cover the out side surface of the clutch bell entirely. Try not to get paint directly into the spine area of the hub. Once the paint is dry you are ready to reinstall everything and enjoy. I hope this helps inspire others and erasure that there are alternatives to buying aftermarket parts. Now for those lucky enough to have shops woth great tools, I recommend using a die grinder for excess metal removal, air operated riciprocating saw for design cutting, mig or tig welder for and filling that may occur, a 90° grinder with sanding/scotchbrite pad for finishing and de burring. I orignally began this mod using only my dremmel and dimond cutting discs. The metal on the bell was too much of an adversary and took over an hour to make one cut completly through. Needless to say, that there was a better way (abiet not as clean and percise.. enter angle grinder lol) Thanks for reading.
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Rough cut
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Hook me up with a finished product photo when you can!
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Have you used it yet? I would be worried about it being out of balance. Stock they come harmonically balanced (spun up on a machine that senses the heavy spot and tells them where to add weight). If its out of balance it will feel bad at higher speeds, and possible explode if way out of balance.
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First rough cut filling
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First filling after sanding
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All extra metal removed, all cuts are filled and sanded, ready for paint.
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Painted. During this process my new DLH variator arrived so I installed that and cleaned & painted the out side face of the drive pulley. I also cleaned and painted the plastic fan.
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Finished and assembled.
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I just took the bike out for a test ride. I'm still maxing out at only 75km
But I belive that's a fuel delivery issue I've been trying to dial in. First impressions of the mod are that it certainly maintains a higher rpm through the powerband. It seems to stay in a higher gear without a kick down longer. It feels as though there is a bit more response/power on tap, but it doesn't have that hard "punch" delivered with the stock bell weight combined with red contra and yellow clutch springs. The modded bell gives a smother take off and seems to over compensate for my poorly tuned carburetor, allowing the rpm to rise enough so that the pipe can breathe a little better. I think with a little toying around with springs and weights, this mod should net noticeable gains. Thanks for reading.
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I took the bike out for a second test ride. This time I adjusted the carb a little and swapped rollers from a 6.67g x 6, (40.0g total) to slightly heavier 7.2g. X 6, (43.2g total). The results were a stronger launch with improved acceleration through out and (as before) higher rpm over stock with a touch lower rpm then the first test run. The cvt shifts and runs smoothly with no signs of unbalanced rotation from the clutch bell. Everything seems to be working nicely so far and I will continue to fine tune and experiment with different set-ups. I have yet to do a top speed run in its current test 2 configuration but I anticipate a higher overall top speed versus the first run today. So far I am very pleased with the way this project turned out. I am anxiously awaiting your feed back and thoughts. Thanks
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Your bike is too clean. Go get dirty!
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Nearly 170 views and no input from anyone ???
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Like B & L, I would be very concerned about balance. Additionally, I would be concerned about the strength reduction by the missing metal. What you are doing is the essence of hot rodding which is a good thing. Kind of try it and see if it works. It is what engineers do most of the time but they do not tell you that in engineering school. You and Yager 200i make for good reading.
Karl
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXn6SuU_8Jw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXn6SuU_8Jw)
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Cool vid. Sucks for him though lol. I understand those concerns on the balance issues as those were my concerns well before I even laid out the lines or cut metal. I didnt take pics of tbe entire process just the "money-shots" so to speak. During the process I used a digital caliper to measure the amount of metal being removed from each section of cuts/sanding. Its extremly important that any mods I do to my scoot are safe and reliable as its my daily rider. I also agree on concerns with the structrural integridy of the bell since a rather large amount of material was removed. I too have the same concerns and only time can truly tell. I did have the bike pegged today at (approximatly) 60-62 mph. The needle was at the H on the mph side and still climbing until I had to brake for a red light. There didnt seem to be any noticable vibrations of an unusual nature ( Thank God. Not gonna lie; it was kinda scary...and exciting) Anyway thanks for reading. Ride safe
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Glad that it's working out for you! Mine is also my daily (I don't want to ride my taotao anymore), which is why I'm not ready to jump into that kind of modding. I may look into a stage6 bell, partially just to have the back up stock bell intact. Also, I've Heard decent things about them.
Side note, my gps claims 55mph when I'm at 65 (assuming, at the point right around the end of the h, maybe a bit higher.) My 20% off calculations have been rather true to my scoot so far, 35=42, 40=48, 45=54, etc. When trying to compare speeds it gets frustrating sometimes. My buddy on his super eight 150 tries to tell everyone I'm doing seventy because I pull away from him when his speedo is at 55. And he always bitches at me for speeding when we aren't even doing the speed limit, lol.
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Haha thats too funny about your friend. Hes just upset because the S9 is quicker and prettier. Ive also have been thinking about the stage 6 bell. I seem to remember a Polini bell setup but havent heard much on it. To be honest I should be directing my attention to the carb on my bike more then anything else, and is the reasothI made a thread looking for S9 owners/tuners in my area. Maybe they could help me get it sorted out. The bike runs acceptably now so Ill probably leave it as is until my 19mm Delorto arrives :)
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Haha thats too funny about your friend. Hes just upset because the S9 is quicker and prettier. Ive also have been thinking about the stage 6 bell. I seem to remember a Polini bell setup but havent heard much on it. To be honest I should be directing my attention to the carb on my bike more then anything else, and is the reasothI made a thread looking for S9 owners/tuners in my area. Maybe they could help me get it sorted out. The bike runs acceptably now so Ill probably leave it as is until my 19mm Delorto arrives :)
After I finally got my stock carb tuned in, I modded the airbox then had to use my 19mm arreche. Now I've almost got it right, until I put a bigger intake or mod the stock one...