KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: jmichaelwillard on February 15, 2010, 08:43:32 PM
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I just bought a zx50 that was souped up with alot of after market items. The dealer told me that there was only one level of headlight (not hi and lo) but I noticed that there IS a place for lo beams. I also noticed that all of the other lights (licence plate, body turn signals, and back body running lights) are not working. Before I tear the plastic off of this scooter, does anyone know of a reason why all of these lights might be off at once?
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dude, im having the same issue..my head light, tail lights, running light,license light dont work.. was told several things..i changed my stator, no good, changed voltage reg, no good, changed bulbs..if i find out, ill let you in on it.. i need the information myself....
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If they are all out I would think it is a ground problem. there is a green wire with a ring terminal that mounts to the starter bolt. Check that for tightness. There is also a 10 amp fuse on the front of the battery box. That is for your accessories.
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There is also no high beam/low beam, only on. There are two settings on the switch. The first one turns on the running lights, the second one turns on the headlight and turns off the front running lights (either side of the headlight). The yellow lights on the front fairing are the "euro" turn signals which are not wired up on the US version, same with the small rear yellow ones just below the tail light. I removed my stalks on the rear and just switched the harness plug to the "euro" turn signals in the rear, the harness was already there. There is no front harness in place for the front fairing "euro" turn signals on mine though, so I haven't gotten around to hooking those up yet.
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right, mine has no front yellow lights, just the cover. BUT mine has the wires,bulbs for the rear yellow markers..the light side has 3wires, the wire from factory wiring has one green they plug into each other. that seemed odd, either the hot or ground was missing from the plug.
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Mine has the factory wiring and bulbs for the rear "euro" signals, just not the front ones. I'm not sure off hand about what wires are in the harness, but I just disconnected the plug from the stalk signals and plugged it into the "euro" signals and they worked just fine!
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There are 2 hots, and one ground back there. the hots are for left, and right turn and the ground is common to both. The plug that goes to them is the same plug as the stalk blinkers. Just swap the plugs, and you have the built in's working.
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the stalk blinker??? you mean the actuall signal that pertrudes out on all 4's??..lmao. check this, my turn signals,brake lights,FRONT white running lights work...no head light,tail, rear yellows..
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Yeah the rear turn signal lights. The plug from them will go to the yellow lights plug. These are not hooked up on bikes meant for the US. Your headlight is MOST likely the bulb. Lots of us have changed out the bulb for something brighter, and easier to get replacement bulbs for. I used a 35 watt hallogen fog lamp bulb, and socket. Just don't go any bigger than 35 watt because your stator cannot support anything larger. Have you tried wd-40 in the light switches? Could be that simple.
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the bulb looks good on headlight tho.. tail light tho, brake lights work, crrrazzzy.. wd-40, no,hadnt never tried that
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It's worth a shot. May just be dirty contacts
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WHOA! You people are awesome. I didn't know that there was a Euro wiring and a US Wiring. You just saved me HOURS of work because I was about to pull all the plastic off and trace all the wiring! Just one question though...would this US wiring thing explain why i don't have a licence plate light, or a speedometer light? Or is that probably just the bulbs?
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my lincense light isnt working either, but im pretty sure there isnt a speedo light, just glow from head,running lights.
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There are speedo lights! There are two small bulbs that plug into the back of the unit. I'm not sure on the license plate light, I'll have to look at mine.
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It's BULBS DUDES! Those two wire at the end thingies...
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RLMAO.....just got mine back this evening, imma try the wd40 thing, but i have replaced all bulbs except the head light.
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The headlite is about a six dollar thingie. It winds up costing 11-20 bucks depending on how far you have to go,and get it.
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If you have any working lights, it's got to be a short in the wiring itself, one of the plug connectors, or the bulb socket. I also checked my license plate light, which doesn't currently work. I'm pretty sure I left the bulb out to save some power draw though. No license plate needed! ;D
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You're daqrked out.
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lmao.....yeah, i have front runners. told the turns, brake lights are battery run...head,runners,TAIL lights off the stator.. replaced that before too. there was a fan bolt?? stuck to the magneto, stator..the scoot shop said i may have burnt it up? they didnt work when i put it on anyway, dont know when the bolts came out.. i did see they were missing before, just thought fell out
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I just checked on mine. The turn signals and brake light run off the battery with the ign. switch on, but engine off. The running lights and headlight run off the stator and the engine has to be running. This leads me to believe that your stator is working if you have front running lights and it's gotta be in the wiring, sockets, or bulbs.
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HOOAH!!!!! my lights work now... idk if it was removing rear turn signals, (1side had been changed from lay down) & going euro(sleeks up the rear good,..good tip..) or the wd40.. had to replace headlight, put red in front markers,speedo lights... hell yeah, thanks a bunch, ive not had lights my whole ownership..
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Awesome Batman! Just don't tell Robin or he may want his fixed too> I always thought there was something a little off w/ him... You know all that Holy Night Driving Batman
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WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!! ;D..RLMAO...i know thats right.., my lips are sealed.. :-X ...any other tricks for me??..lmao
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I was interested in the headlight upgrade so I took the globe out to see about replacing it and I saw it was a dual fillament meaning it does have a high beam even though it does not have the switch. I swapped the wires over to see what the high beam was like and even though it is still only 35 watts it is still an improvement.
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Oh, ane for what it is worth, I found a dimmer switch on ebay.
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I tried hooking mine up with a second switch to operate the the second filament. I had it to where I could have both filaments on at the same time and the stator does not put out enough power. The result was less light output with both filaments running at the same time. I ended up just running the high beam filament. When that bulb eventually blew I replaced it with a completely different bulb that I modified the base to fit in the housing. It was an 893 I forget off hand how many watts it is, I think it was about 40W. I just shaved the very ends of the oval base down with a dremel till it fit snuggly and plugged the wires directly on the back of it. I'm pretty sure I posted somewhere on here about it. The light output is much better now! Here is a pic of the different bulb bases. I think you may be able to use an H4 or H7, but I don't know the wattage of them. You want to keep it close to the 35W recommended! Otherwise, you could melt the headlight housing, and/or overload the electrical system!(http://www.advancespeedshop.com/images/NokyaActicWhite_chart.jpg)
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Hi Shaka, thanks for the info. because I have already got the switch coming I will have a go at connecting it.
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There is one thing I don't understand! I have a hi low switch on the left bar. It is a thumb toggle that gives Hi/low, or a flash of the Hi. Mine is an '04.
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Idk about that one Zombie. The only thing I have on the left bar is the turn signal and the horn. Maybe you really do have a Mexican or Canadian model. I thought mine was an '04 also, not positive on that though.
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Aye' Chiauawa... Ey' Oh yeah! Beans & beer. MMMMMmmmmmm My life just keeps getting better, and better, Hey Jpres. Need a roommate?
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yeah, mine is an 04 and i dont have a switch.. just the turn signals and horn. you can see where it would go tho.... how long did it take you to change the bulb out like that.. a car bulb?!?!?!..
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It was really easy! It took about 10min with the dremel to shave down the wide ends till it fit snug in the hole. Then I just plugged the spade connectors directly onto the stock wires so it can easily be changed back.
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Read the package CAREFULLY. Like shaka said do not use anything bigger than 35 watts. You will FRY the stator.
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hmm, thats a idea...a red tinted light to match my red scoot....hell yeah... i wonder why zombies scoot has the hi/low but nobody else does...
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La cucaracha!
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It's on the left side, opposite the kill switch. I finally got some good bar end mirrors. This pict was before them.
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Mine just has a blank there, weird!
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Yep, mine has a blank on each side, no kill switch, I thought it was a hazard light switch on the right hand side. I dont know why but some had the dimmer switch and some didn't.
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They turned up, so now my scoot has a dimmer switch on the left hand side and the halogen globe is in. The globe came from england via ebay and was cheaper than I can buy a H4 globe for my car. The globe is 12V 35/35W, and model code BA20D, straight fit into existing mount, can't wait for tonight to see if it is any better.
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Found a pic of the bulb.
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Gonna look into that. 35 watt is the correct size.
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Yeah, couldnt find one locally but there it was on ebay.
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im assuming you had to install a switch for the lights...mine also only has the off/on switch.. i thought when you turned the headlight on, that the running lights stayed on also..mine turn off when headlight engaged?????
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Only the running lites on either side of the headlamp. All else should stay on.
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what up? yeah my running lights turn off when i turn the headlamp on.. figured the runnin lights would stay on to increase headlight...
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It is set up that way to protect the stator. the 35 watt bulb in the headlite alone is drawing the maximum the stator is designed for. Adding the white running lites would overheat the stator, and turn it into a paperweight
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I am not sure if anyone cares or is aware of some of the risks but the different types of bulbs have a lot to do with the shape of the reflector and the resulting light pattern. If the bulb causes dazzle to the coming drivers, you may actually be adding risk. Another issue is that some bulbs create too much light directly in front of the bike and it reduces your ability to see down the road. It all has to do with the way the bulb filament is supported in the lamp and the light pattern it creates. This is why some bulbs are 35/35 but the light patterns are different based on the fact the hi-filament is in a different position than the low, but are both the same wattage.
If you can, stay with the same bulb type but with a different wattage. Many times, you can find larger wattage bulbs in the same bulb style at the off-road buggy sites. They are less hampered by the laws of the road (being off road) and have brighter bulbs in the same body.
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well,im back wit a lighting issue...lights were working fine...i remounted my turn signals...lights were fine this a.m...did go downhill a ways wide open...now all my lights are gone(except of course,turn signals,brake)...wondering if the keyway is screwed or what throwing it off a bit(actually seems a touch harder to start today too )...stator is 8 mths old, ALL bulbs are brand new...heeelllpp, gotta have my lights back....
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Sounds like either there is a short in the wiring that took out the regulator, or the stator took a dump. 1/2 of the stator supplies the lighting/charging, and 1/2 supplies the ignition system. I would start by comparing the resistance values from the manual for the stator. I think there is a fault in the wiring so I would re-check it all. before hooking it back up.
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oh yeah, for the sake of argument. when i changed my front turn signals, i used the light socket and wire from a car (lights are same size as front runners). much easier to mount in the front. hooked to factory wiring, just clipped off socket end.. could that may have caused my light problem.. new lights worked for 2 weeks.. turn signals still working just fine..
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No. It sounds like you got that part right. If the blinkers are still working it shows the regulator is ok. Have you tested the running voltage at the battery? Check the volts, both at rest (key off) and again with the engine reving slightly. You should see 12v for the first, and at least 13 for the second.
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what up? sorry it took me so long....but wouldnt you know you were right...i found a pinched wire an thats what killed my lights..must have finally touched to short out...YAAAYYY..LIGHTS AGAIN...LMAO
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Good for you Batman, Most of the time electrical is just a simple problem... Hard to find sometimes, but simple!