KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: scooterfan on November 18, 2018, 08:19:47 AM
-
Hi All,
I'm an oldish newby here. Owned a Vespa scooter about 50 years ago, and many other bikes since then. Had to sell my previous bike about two weeks ago due to back and leg problems. I could'nt see myself without handlebars, so I just bought myself a 2009 Kymco 125 Agility with 8400 geniune km on the clock from a dealer in a neibouring town. . Still en excellent condition, will be delivered tomorrow or the day after tomorrow.
I am completely new to CVT drive train transmissions, and started watching Youtube videos, as well as Googling the subject.
It became clear to me that the drive belts actually wear at the sides, and become narrower by time.
According to info at the web this means worn (narrower) belts actually change the effective "gear ratio", and create a situation where you get slower acceleration and loss of top speed.
My intention is to have a proper look at my scooter's belt as soon as possible, and I would appreciate if anyone can let me know about the correct width on a brand new belt.
I would also appreciate any related info.
Thanks !
-
For exact specs like that, as well as a general maintenance guide - you might like to think about purchasing a service manual for your scooter (www.cyclepedia.com (http://www.cyclepedia.com) might be one source)
Stig
-
For exact specs like that, as well as a general maintenance guide - you might like to think about purchasing a service manual for your scooter (www.cyclepedia.com (http://www.cyclepedia.com) might be one source)
Stig
I'm sorry - I actually thought this would be a "user friendly" forum like many others where members can ask questions without hesitation....
-
I'm sorry - I actually thought this would be a "user friendly" forum like many others where members can ask questions without hesitation....
Sorry you took it that way. The specs on belt width are in the cyclepedia manuals - with lots of other good info.
Thought I was pointing you in a helpful direction ….nothing else meant by my reply.
Stig
-
Sorry you took it that way. The specs on belt width are in the cyclepedia manuals - with lots of other good info.
Thought I was pointing you in a helpful direction ….nothing else meant by my reply.
Stig
No problem.
Jeeves posted a photo of a new belt at another thread with the numbers "781 20 30" on it.
I Googled the subject, and this is what the numbers actually mean:
781 = The pitch length of the belt in millimeters.
20 = Width of the belt in millimeters.
30 = The angle of the teeth on the interior of the belt.
-
There ya go! You and Jeeves are the forum experts on that very topic! This is the place for the info. Silence means one of three things: 1. Readers that day don't have a machine like yours. 2. Readers that day do not know the answer and 3. Readers with the answer are in the loo with a complicated "deposit" and are delayed. I guarantee your dealer is no match for this forum! Most here are retired and are on "island time" so take a while to respond! Welcome! You are now an Agility 125 *Specialist*!
-
Just saw this thread.
The best belt I had on was the original Kymco belt the scoot came with. 15000km and was still ok.
The best aftermarket so far has been from Bando.
It's a bit more expensive then other aftermarket belts.
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
-
There ya go! You and Jeeves are the forum experts on that very topic! "..............
.......You are now an Agility 125 *Specialist*!
Haha thanks for the promotion but I still need to learn a lot.
The dealer will now only deliver the scooter tomorrow and I can’t wait. So in the meanwhile I’m keeping myself busy by reading as much possible about these scooters at the forum. When I started reading there was about 56 pages of info at this forum, but for some or other reason I can now only see 34 pages with interesting info. Maybe I just started reading at the right time.
You might be right about the dealer. When I viewed the scooter I asked the salesman about the gearbox oil at the rear wheel. I saw some photos here at the forum when the drain plugs were discussed, but the salesman told me these scooters do not get any gearbox oil, it only get engine oil inside the engine.
So I can’t wait to check wether the salesman knew what he was talking about ;D
-
Just saw this thread.
The best belt I had on was the original Kymco belt the scoot came with. 15000km and was still ok.
The best aftermarket so far has been from Bando.
It's a bit more expensive then other aftermarket belts.
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
Thanks for sharing the info, this is very helpful !
-
Belts are a bit of a pain - there's no standardisation on how they're measured so can be a bit hit and miss finding the right type.
That said, the original belt in my Like200i soldiered on past 20,000KM without issue.
-
Belts are a bit of a pain - there's no standardisation on how they're measured so can be a bit hit and miss finding the right type.
That said, the original belt in my Like200i soldiered on past 20,000KM without issue.
If the original belts don’t come with the numbers on Jeeves belt (781 20 30), it will be very helpful if anyone can give us the exact width measurement on a new original belt. Hopefully belt lengths will be the same, otherwise comparing the belts and even belt lifespan might become very difficult.
Having read some very interesting info about CVT efficiency I started thinking belt width itself plays a major role in utilizing maximum engine eficiency, maximum speed, lifespan of the engine, and fuel consumpsion.
-
If the original belts don’t come with the numbers on Jeeves belt (781 20 30), it will be very helpful if anyone can give us the exact width measurement on a new original belt. Hopefully belt lengths will be the same, otherwise comparing the belts and even belt lifespan might become very difficult.
Having read some very interesting info about CVT efficiency I started thinking belt width itself plays a major role in utilizing maximum engine eficiency, maximum speed, lifespan of the engine, and fuel consumpsion.
Don't overthink it.
Check the belt every 3-4000km (or more often if it makes you more feel more secure).
Bando belt:
https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/drive-bando-kymco-agility-movie-people-super-250ccm-p-26087-1.html?backcPathco=156&cPath=2_1184#.W_LZRxjR80M
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
-
I consider stock Kymco belts to be top notch for the scooter.
I am also of the mind that if you are like me, and almost never run the scoot at 10/10ths.....you will be happy with the scoot's performance for a long time, even if there is a slight change to the gearing.
I do change out a very worn belt...before it fails me on the road,
but my riding style would not notice a few % off the top speed.
(and it would be a strange scooter indeed, if no way to change the gear oil. Bless their hearts --- motorcycle salesmen are sometimes full of entertaining ideas about those silly scooters on the sales floor!)
Stig
-
I consider stock Kymco belts to be top notch for the scooter.
I am also of the mind that if you are like me, and almost never run the scoot at 10/10ths.....you will be happy with the scoot's performance for a long time, even if there is a slight change to the gearing.
I do change out a very worn belt...before it fails me on the road,
but my riding style would not notice a few % off the top speed.
(and it would be a strange scooter indeed, if no way to change the gear oil. Bless their hearts --- motorcycle salesmen are sometimes full of entertaining ideas about those silly scooters on the sales floor!)
Stig
Got ya, I finally got the beast today.
What a pleasure, I should have bought one of these gems long ago !
At the moment I am very tempted to change oils and to have a look at everything, but it needs to cool down a bit. After collecting the scooter at a local branch from the dealer I went for a ride to buy a bread at shop as far as possible from home. When got back at home, I went for a ride to buy a refreshment at a store as far as possible from home again.
Again, what a pleasure, I just need to wait untill the beast cools down a bit.
-
You've GOT IT! You have been recaptured! Why ride one mile when ten will do! Someone on here said that....
-
You've GOT IT! You have been recaptured! Why ride one mile when ten will do! Someone on here said that....
you said that when you where young, and the oil should be changed hot, the particuls do not have time to settle, and get flushed out,.
-
you said that when you where young, and the oil should be changed hot, the particuls do not have time to settle, and get flushed out,.
True, but in cases like this where oil changes takes place quite often, I think the oil temperature should rather be "mild" than hot. Hot oil obviously means the aluminium housings will be hot as well. Due to metal expansion I never like to remove drain- or spark plugs when the aluminium housings are too hot.
I think chances are just better that the hole thread at the housings might wear out....therefore my intention is to drain the oils only at very "mild" temperature.
-
My intention is to have a proper look at my scooter's belt as soon as possible, and I would appreciate if anyone can let me know about the correct width on a brand new belt.
I would also appreciate any related info.
Thanks !
The width is almost irrelevant since the various makes are not always exactly the same from one make to another. Close is good enough, and you won't be able to tell the difference. If you're really hammering it, the belt will eventually start to show some loose threads after maybe 20,000km. I've never had one break, even the cheap ones. They seem like they could last a lifetime. It's possible an expensive Kevlar belt just might last forever.
-
The width is almost irrelevant since the various makes are not always exactly the same from one make to another. Close is good enough, and you won't be able to tell the difference. If you're really hammering it, the belt will eventually start to show some loose threads after maybe 20,000km. I've never had one break, even the cheap ones. They seem like they could last a lifetime. It's possible an expensive Kevlar belt just might last forever.
After inspecting the belt, I do agree with your comments for several reasons:
1. The belt is an original Kymco belt, and the current width was taken with a digital vernier. After just more than 8400 km the width of the belt is 19.01mm.
2. The belt dust found inside the cover, as well as a slight ridge at the top of the sides of the belt is a clear indication that at least some wear already took place, but nothing to worry about.
3. The “shiny†part at the rear pully (where the belt gets in contact with the two sides of the pulley) still indicates that the belt still moves almost right to the top of the pulley in “top gearâ€, so the little wear (20mm less 19.01mm = 0.09mm) during about 8400 km really does’nt bother me.
4. The belt still looks almost brand new, and I think it should last 20k without reason for concern.
In short - I really like my Agility’s AVT setup. I just had to clean some belt dust which was trapped inside the cover. The variator has cooling fins, not like all other 125 variators I saw at youtube. I think the fins at the variator definitely helps with cooling, and will help to extend the lifespan of all components. Everything just looks solid and reliable.
I will probably just remove the CVT cover at 16 000km to get rid of belt dust, and inspection.
-
Well, since my previous post I was thinking about these CVT transmissions again, and I realized that I was cought with pants down by a few Youtube videos which indicated that “top gear†ratio will change if the belt gets thinner.
This is simply not true. All “gear ratios†will ALLWAYS remain the same - even if he belt becomes a lot thinner.
The reasoning for my statement is very simple - If the belt gets worn (thinner) and start “sagging†down into the rear pulley it will also start “sagging†down into the front pulley. The distance it will sag down into both pulleys will be exactly the same - therefore “gear ratio†will ALWAYs remain the same.
It might sounds like a “no problem†situation, but I am convinced that if the belts start sagging down into the grooves, the belt length will not be correct any longer - even if the belt did’nt stretch. Simply because the belt will be sitting deeper into both pulleys.
This means the “slag side†of the belt will cause an uneven grip on both pulleys, which will cause more stress and heat on the belt, as well as both pulleys - because the work load will be spread over a smaller area on all components.
In short - I decided to change the belt at 12 000 km, even if it “looks good†to last 20 000 km. Right or wrong, I am quite convinced that should the belts be replaced more often, the lifespan the pulleys might be extended.