KymcoForum.com
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Garym0510 on October 20, 2021, 06:11:43 PM
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Just bought with 8000miles the battery light came on when I test road it. So today when I purchased it I bought a new battery slapped it in battery light remained on. I rode it from pick up location stopped numerous places on the way home. No problem starting at all. I know thus has been talked about before I don't have a volt meter at moment to check things.
Whats the opinions,
Stator going out?
Loose connection
Or should I try resetting the thing by holding the throttle open clearing the faults?
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@Garym0510, hard to say without having any facts of voltage showing. Need not to be your generator. Long shot.
Don't think resetting would do the trick, but try anyway.
Think you mentioned a shop who would do a tune-up on your scoot, they should have a look into this issue when you're there.
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I'd start by checking the battery with a multimeter (if you don't have one, go buy one, they are a handy tool to have..inexpensive). Check with scooter off...you want around 12.7 volts from battery...and check with it running and revving...forget the exact number you're looking for but something around 14 or 14.5 while revving?
Make sure all battery cable connections are tight..
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Eh I just bought a rectifier, gonna slap it in tonight and see if it solved the problem and with the bike being about 20 miles away from 8,000 it's probably time for one and since they are pretty common culprits. If it doesn't solve the problem then I will get volt meter and go that route and atleast I'll have a new rectifier lol.
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@Garym, maybe its worth to follow a troubleshooting schedule as for example "manualslib" has, before changing parts by random. (pls see pics)
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Probably a good idea Rufus, I changed the rectifier last night and it's still on so there's that. But it's weird it starts right up no lights are dim and I rode it home from work at night perfectly fine.
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Oh forgot to mention battery is brand new and I had the old battery tested the one where the light originally came on and it tested goof as well.
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@Garym, one try.
-take both battery cables off your battery.
-hold those two (now currentless) cables together for one (1) minute, then all of your transistors within your ECU should be without voltage and resetted. Maybe ...
Are you 100 % sure having the right rectifier, for there are several around. Not all of them communicate with your generator. All connectors really tight and not loosing a prong ...
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@rufus thanks I'll try that because the hold the throttle for 10 seconds didn't work so...
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@rufus nope didn't work, rode into work and hooked up the battery tender this morning it's charging at 1amp gonna let it charge for the next twelve hrs then probably ride to the shop tomorrow...
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Sorry, distant I'm at end of my guesswork.
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late to the party,
sounds like a short too me, check connections make sure they are clean and dry first, then apply dielectric grease and reconnect
fwiw, I get my chemicals from https://caig.com/ (https://caig.com/)
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Yeah i got the right rectifier, had to manually select it from the website like putting in my scooter type year and all and looks exact same to the original bought from electrosport.com. I will check connections tomorrow buying multi meter tonight..
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Oh yeah and the battery only charged for maybe 10 minutes this morning before being fully charged so its not draining much what ever it is. maybe a loose connection is all it is after all?
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@Garym, your dashboard has to "know" somehow, to switch its charging light on.
So, as already stated all around, a short, a loose cable, simply a malefunction appears.
Having your multimeter, next steps to check would be
-battery voltage (motor off)
WRITE EVERY STEP DOWN
-battery voltage during starting
-delivered voltage from generator to battery
-lights on during running, voltage?
It has to be found out where the "leak" is located at.
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Before starting 13.1
While starting 12.1
Running 13.8 up to 14.2
Revving stayed around 14
I don't have an option to turn off lights so they are always on.
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@Garym, voltage shows normal values.
Now the real search starts.
Since the "rear" part, battery/regulator/generator seem to be healthy, next steps would be to check
-fuses (which one shuts your charging light off?)
-next suspects are handlebar switches
(you sure, NO light switch?)
-front fairing off, which connector switches off your charging light?
Each cable, switch, connector has to be opened to be eliminated from suspects list.
As mentioned already, there should be somewhere a corroded spot on a +cable which touches ground and illuminates your light.
Pls see link, there is a similar story, to get an idea.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31824.msg223120#msg223120
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@Garym, one more try..
-up on your regulator are two connectors, one with 3 yellow cables and one with a red and green cable.
1st test
The one with 3 yellow cables comes from stator and produces AC, measure on this three yellow cables
(motor running, connector together, multimeter on AC)
- one yellow to second yellow
- second yellow to third yellow
- third yellow to first yellow
there should be at each try the same voltage shown on your multimeter. If there is one failing, then your stator is demaged.
2nd test
- measure on this second connector with red and green (motor running, connector together, multimeter on DC 20 V)
-there should be during idle an output of 13.5-14.5V on your multimeter, if below 13.0V or over 15V, your regulator is out of service.
-regulator gets pretty warm during idling, that is normal.