KymcoForum.com
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: rjs987 on November 16, 2021, 05:44:07 PM
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Just reading and re-reading up on performing the first 600 mile oil/filter change on my Kymco AK 550. I looked in the owner manual and in the service manual. Same information found in both for this job. Basic and simple and straight forward... except for one little niggly detail. I see the torque values for the filter and also for the drain plugs, there are 2.
And then there is also a torque value for the magnetic screw!? Where is that? No mention of removing a magnetic screw in either description of the process to replace the oil yet there is that torque value specified for it. So I dug a little further. I figured the parts breakout might just clue me in to where this magnetic screw might be. I was right. Plain as day on the parts breakout and listing for the left transmission casing. Hmmm, sort of miss-named since everywhere else in the service manual it's called the "Mission case" but I suppose they were sort of abbreviating there, sort of. It's actually the outer clutch case. But anyway, on the bottom of said outer clutch case is shown where a magnetic screw is located. Shown as part number 11205-PSA6-E00. I know that a magnetic screw is used to pick up or catch metal bits that might be floating around in the oil. So it makes sense that it should be cleaned off once in a while. But why no mention of removing it to clean it and then replacing it... other than this mention of a torque value. There is no mention in the owner manual nor in the service manual where to find it and no instruction to remove it for cleaning. Usually the oil drain plug has a magnet plug on it to do that job but on this bike that would put the magnetic plug inside the oil screens where it would not be able to do anything since any metal bits would be floating around in the oil outside of those screens.
I wonder if any of you who do your own oil changes on the AK 550 have thought to take out the magnetic screw, clean it off, and put it back. The torque value is relatively high compared to that of the drain plugs, 28 N-m compared to 9 N-m. Debating if it is even needed to be cleaned for every oil change. I would think the first one or two oil changes would be more important to have it cleaned off than subsequent oil changes. Or is that even needed since there is no mention of doing so anywhere... other than that entry of a torque value for it. Maybe, just maybe, draining the oil will provide enough flow to wash it off if there is any accumulation on it. Yeah, right.
Anyway, on with the oil and filter change.
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@rjs, don't have an AK 55O (though would like to) but saw a lot of messed oil-plug threads.
Either do tightening by hand with a spanner, if you do have some experience, or use a 1/4 inch torque-wrench SOLELY.
A 1/2 inch wrench does not not have this fine tuning you need for alu threads.
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I do have a lot of experience changing oil in bikes. Have been doing it myself for many years and in my cars many years before that.
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@rjs, don't have an AK 55O (though would like to) but saw a lot of messed oil-plug threads.
Either do tightening by hand with a spanner, if you do have some experience, or use a 1/4 inch torque-wrench SOLELY.
A 1/2 inch wrench does not not have this fine tuning you need for alu threads.
Yep, I never use a torque wrench for small fasteners!
"snug" and quit!
(we had a LIKE200i owner strip an exhaust stud - waiting for that "click")
Stig
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Just reading and re-reading up on performing the first 600 mile oil/filter change on my Kymco AK 550. I looked in the owner manual and in the service manual. Same information found in both for this job. Basic and simple and straight forward... except for one little niggly detail. I see the torque values for the filter and also for the drain plugs, there are 2.
And then there is also a torque value for the magnetic screw!? Where is that? No mention of removing a magnetic screw in either description of the process to replace the oil yet there is that torque value specified for it. So I dug a little further. I figured the parts breakout might just clue me in to where this magnetic screw might be. I was right. Plain as day on the parts breakout and listing for the left transmission casing. Hmmm, sort of miss-named since everywhere else in the service manual it's called the "Mission case" but I suppose they were sort of abbreviating there, sort of. It's actually the outer clutch case. But anyway, on the bottom of said outer clutch case is shown where a magnetic screw is located. Shown as part number 11205-PSA6-E00. I know that a magnetic screw is used to pick up or catch metal bits that might be floating around in the oil. So it makes sense that it should be cleaned off once in a while. But why no mention of removing it to clean it and then replacing it... other than this mention of a torque value. There is no mention in the owner manual nor in the service manual where to find it and no instruction to remove it for cleaning. Usually the oil drain plug has a magnet plug on it to do that job but on this bike that would put the magnetic plug inside the oil screens where it would not be able to do anything since any metal bits would be floating around in the oil outside of those screens.
I wonder if any of you who do your own oil changes on the AK 550 have thought to take out the magnetic screw, clean it off, and put it back. The torque value is relatively high compared to that of the drain plugs, 28 N-m compared to 9 N-m. Debating if it is even needed to be cleaned for every oil change. I would think the first one or two oil changes would be more important to have it cleaned off than subsequent oil changes. Or is that even needed since there is no mention of doing so anywhere... other than that entry of a torque value for it. Maybe, just maybe, draining the oil will provide enough flow to wash it off if there is any accumulation on it. Yeah, right.
Anyway, on with the oil and filter change.
Thank you again!!! I saw that torque spec and assumed thats what it was but had no idea where it was...good point about it probably being most necessary to clean after initial wear of breaking in. I wonder if the whiz-kids that serviced mine for the first service cleaned it. Hugely doubtful. I didnt it clean it either when i did the 3000 mile change.
Now im thinking i probably should
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...
Stig
Sent you a PM asking to have this thread moved to the Technical/How to sub forum please. It wouldn't let me delete right after I started it in the wrong sub forum. ???
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The first maintenance on the schedule is done now. The only thing on this first maintenance interval is the oil and filter change.
I included a few pictures in this thread showing the 2 drain bolts (black bolts) and also pointing to that magnetic screw in the center of the bottom Clutch/mission case. The magnetic screw is the only one with a washer on it that you can easily see when looking at it. Those 2 drain bolts hold in oil screens that need to be checked and/or cleaned as needed. About the same amount of oil drains out of each of those 2 drains. Pulled out the screens, which actually came out with the drain bolts so that was easy. Not much metal bits were on either one. The clutch screen did have one sliver of metal shaving on it. I was kind of expecting a little more than that but was pleased there wasn't any more. Used an old tooth brush to brush off the screens and bolts and put those back after all the oil was drained out and the seating surfaces were cleaned off. Torqued to 9 N-m (90 kgf-cm as it is on my torque wrench). Then on to the filter.
True to form the factory wrenches on that oil filter with a machine that seems to WAY over torque those filters on there. I've watched a few videos showing how to replace the oil filter without removing any panels so proceeded to approach it that way. There is a bottom cover that has a section that simply extends back under the filter that flexes enough to reach in with some filter wrenches or pliers to get it off and on. That bottom panel does protect the filter and front of the engine from road trash that may get thrown up. The SM says to remove that bottom cover. But to do that the lower leg shields have to be removed on each side to get to the 2 bolts on each side of the bottom panel to remove it. Because the filter was torqued on soooo tight I was unable to get a good enough grip with my oil filter pliers to even start to turn it so I had to change my approach a little. I found a way to just partially drop that bottom panel enough to get a good grip with the pliers. I pulled out the plastic rivets at the front of the bottom panel and up the right side of the radiator cover. Then I removed the 3 screws through the right foot board into the right lower leg shield so that would flex out just enough to get to those 2 bolts for the bottom panel. After those were out the right side of the bottom panel could simply drop down and give me a much clearer access to the filter. It finally did come off, after deforming the filter cartridge a lot. But that was for the old filter that was coming off so I'm never concerned about what condition that is in since it will be thrown away. Put the new filter on and followed the instructions on the side of the filter canister: after contact turn another 7/8 to tighten. My filter pliers do tend to put some light scratches on the filter can but scuffing the paint is really not an issue. Putting on is easier than taking off the very first time so no damage to the filter can other than some scratches.
The AK 550 has rubber O-rings for the oil drain bolt seals. The OEM filter is the customary flat rubber washer. Just checked and cleaned those and put back on this time. I did not pull the magnetic screw this time but still debating about when to do that. I would expect it should be done at some point.
Almost forgot to mention... something I learned with my CTX1300 where the exhaust pipe pass close enough to the oil filter to get significant oil spilled on them during the filter change. On that bike I wrapped aluminum foil around the pipes to keep them clean and that worked really great. For the AK when pulling off the filter oil spills onto the rear part of the bottom panel and drains off so to attempt to prevent oil getting onto the plastic I wrapped the rear part of the bottom panel with aluminum foil. It did work well, for the most part. I wasn't as careful putting the foil on and ended up with a hole on one corner of the foil that allowed some oil to seep through to the plastic. I'll be more careful next time. But it was mostly clean when I pulled the foil off and threw it away.
I have a pliers type oil filter wrench that fits 3 sizes. The Burgman 650 filters were the smallest size, this AK 550 is the middle size. I'm debating if there would be enough space to get past the bottom panel without dropping it to use a filter canister end wrench. I may order one anyway and try it next time.
Filled with oil and ran the engine before checking. The AK only takes 2.7 L for an oil and filter change. Less than the Burgman or my former bikes. It's really nice having a real dip stick to check the oil level. I did have to put in a little more to bring the oil level to mid point on the dip stick (or oil scale as Kymco calls it).
Now to concentrate on adding another 2400 miles before the next service. The dash display has an oil and CVT belt mileage counter along with the odometer and trip meters. I reset the oil counter. Makes it easy to see how far I've gone since the last oil change.
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A few more pictures that go with my previous post.
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I was just re-reading this thread and noted that I didn't mention what oil I used. I believe anyone can use what oil they want but shouldn't be surprised about just a few important details to consider.
Because the AK 550, and almost all the other bikes I've owned, has a wet clutch there is a primary detail to consider. A wet clutch simply means that the clutch sits in a bath of oil, the same reserve of oil that is for the engine, thus it is wet and not dry like on so many smaller scooters and also certain other bikes. The specification become important because of this. I always verify the oil I use is specified for JASO MA/MA2. This spec is designed just for bikes/scooters with a wet clutch. No using an oil that is so specified or the equivalent will result in eventual issues with the clutch slipping. When that first starts to happen the resolution might possibly be as simple as replacing the oil with something that is designed for wet clutches. If that doesn't work or if the symptoms have been going on for a while the only resolution will be to rebuild the clutch replacing the clutch pads.
Another designation on many oil jugs in the USA is the service API circle. I always look to see if the bottom outer ring of this circle is BLANK. Not all oil jugs have this circle so I go more by what I stated above. If the circle is there it will sometimes be shown to state "Resource Conserving" or "Energy Conserving" in that bottom outer circle. If it does say that I know the JASO spec will also be missing since those oils have special additives that will trash the clutch pads eventually. Sometimes sooner than at other times.
I have used Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic in all my bikes since before it was called T6 and simply called Rotella T (back in 2003). Since I ride in some really cold temps during the cold season and also since I ride in temps that sometimes gets higher than 100F I looked at the chart of suggested oil viscosity in the service manual for the right oil to use for those conditions. I usually only ride enough miles to change the oil once per year so I want an oil that is best at both extremes. The Kymco AK 550 service manual suggests either a 10W-40 or 5W-50 for riding at both extremes. I think 5W-40 fits in there just perfectly. I have had no oil related problems on any of my bikes doing this. I know that other riders also don't have oil related problems using whatever they use, usually. So take this all with the understanding that this is my opinion.
In my AK 550 I am using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic oil.
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Im about to do yet another oil change...i think this will be 4 and the third filter change in under 5 months :D
Still haven't changed out the coolant or the brakes but i suppose i probably should. Just seems excessive...dont you agree?
REALLY digging that little wrench kit you turned me on to BTY...its the coolest
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Im about to do yet another oil change...i think this will be 4 and the third filter change in under 5 months :D
Still haven't changed out the coolant or the brakes but i suppose i probably should. Just seems excessive...dont you agree?
REALLY digging that little wrench kit you turned me on to BTY...its the coolest
Short answer: no
medium answer: I've known many bikes with almost the very same service intervals as the AK 550. Most of the bikes I've owned are some of those.
You do know that ONLY the second and third oil changes are at 3000 mile intervals, then it goes to 6000 mile intervals every time after that. This is normal.
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Oil specifics would be clearly listed in the owner's manual, and most manuals request brake fluid renewals at least 24 mos apart.
I often use Shell Rotella in my $3K Kymco, but I change it at @800 mile intervals.
Stig
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Short answer: no
medium answer: I've known many bikes with almost the very same service intervals as the AK 550. Most of the bikes I've owned are some of those.
You do know that ONLY the second and third oil changes are at 3000 mile intervals, then it goes to 6000 mile intervals every time after that. This is normal.
Ya. I could skip the oil change this time except i didnt change the oil filter last time and i cant change it this time w/o changing the oil. No biggie.
I mostly just thought changing the coolant and brake fluid already seemed excessively proactive. Especially the brake fluid. Just not sure how either could degrade in such a short amount of time regardless of miles.
Glad you were able to get some action on the hand warmer issue...Pretty sure mine has the same problem
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Ya. I could skip the oil change this time except i didnt change the oil filter last time and i cant change it this time w/o changing the oil. No biggie.
I mostly just thought changing the coolant and brake fluid already seemed excessively proactive. Especially the brake fluid. Just not sure how either could degrade in such a short amount of time regardless of miles.
Glad you were able to get some action on the hand warmer issue...Pretty sure mine has the same problem
Thanks!
The issue with coolant and brake fluid is that it can go bad or degrade with time regardless of miles. Moisture gets into those systems as well to further degrade the fluids. For those I would go with the "Months" limits rather than miles... depending how many miles you ride per year. I usually get in an average of around 7500 miles per year so that scheduling is close enough for me.
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Thanks!
The issue with coolant and brake fluid is that it can go bad or degrade with time regardless of miles. Moisture gets into those systems as well to further degrade the fluids. For those I would go with the "Months" limits rather than miles... depending how many miles you ride per year. I usually get in an average of around 7500 miles per year so that scheduling is close enough for me.
GOOD!! Because that was my thinking exactly. I decided 6 months (10k miles ish) is safely proactive but not a waste of time and money. Even if its not much of either. The scheduled coolant change service for my Yamaha Majesty is 3 years and i just cant imagine the physics of the fluid or the materials in the system are entirely dissimilar :D...I might feel different if the bike ever sat for more than 12 hours without being used.
While ive got you...not sure if i ever told you that im REALLY impressed with the CVT tool set we talked about. Excellent machining and design. Seems like it will make the job a breeze. I wonder if it would be cheap enough to ship around to make it worth loaning out when you're ready. Seems a waste sitting in my closet most of the year
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Coming up on the next oil change interval on my AK 550. This one is the 3000 mile oil change and does not include an oil filter change. The next interval will be at 6000 miles and then it will be every 6000 miles after that with a filter change at every oil change scheduled. As of today my AK is at 2658 miles on the odometer. I have a trip coming up May 11 that will last through May 16 and add close to 1500 miles, give or take depending on how much riding I do while camped. That means it makes sense for me to do this next oil change before I leave on my trip. I might get the odometer over 2700 miles before I do, or I might not. I think it's plenty close enough now but I'll wait and do the job next week. That should give me a ride or two to verify everything is ready to go.
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Hello,
Was planning on buying an AK 550 in May....but was watching the Youtube channel "BikeTrips" today and it seems he went with a BMW now because he says the AK 550 was unreliable....
This scares me!
Since I don't want to pay Yamaha or Suzuki prices I may have to go with a motorcycle instead of a Maxi scooter.
I know many AK riders love their scooters and may not want to discuss the problems they have with them.....so what to do?
Jeff
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Hello,
Was planning on buying an AK 550 in May....but was watching the Youtube channel "BikeTrips" today and it seems he went with a BMW now because he says the AK 550 was unreliable....
This scares me!
Since I don't want to pay Yamaha or Suzuki prices I may have to go with a motorcycle instead of a Maxi scooter.
I know many AK riders love their scooters and may not want to discuss the problems they have with them.....so what to do?
Jeff
I don't mind making waves....
A motorcycle is a better buy for your $$.
Unless you haul groceries for a living...there are a lot of nice motorcycles out there under $10K.
Get a lot more bike for the $ with a motorcycle, less plastic...and more cc's!!
Stig
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I don't mind making waves....
A motorcycle is a better buy for your $$.
Unless you haul groceries for a living...
Get a lot more bike for the $ with a motorcycle...and more cc's!!
Stig
That term "more bike" is subjective. I think any super scooter of 500 cc or more IS "more bike" than almost any motorcycle of possibly even up to 750 cc. So a motorcycle is not a better buy in most cases IMO. I consider my AK to be every bit as much bike as my last several bikes, including my CTX1300, and possibly more. The comfort and performance of a super scooter will match the acceleration and ride comfort on faster roads of most motorcycles with more cc's. When you get into scooters smaller than that then the difference fades and even reverses. I've been on both sides of both circumstances. The storage is part of it but the performance and comfort of the overall bike is a big part of it. Just my own experience. It also depends on what you are really wanting in a bike of any kind. I do occasional grocery hauls, but those are not the primary use. I used to commute as my primary use for a bike and almost any scooter excels at that over almost any motorcycle. I now ride for fun and to travel to camping trips. The camping trips require being able to carry more than will fit in the under seat storage or in saddlebags. My Burgman and AK both are far superior to any motorcycle I've had for that as well. And not on slower county roads but Interstate highways as well. Maintaining 80+ mph on an Interstate highway in comfort is easy on my scooters same as on my bigger motorcycles. All day if I have to but that's not what I prefer for reasons other than what I am riding. I just don't like mixing with the kind of drivers who prefer Interstate highways.
Although a motorcycle does tend to make a better IMPRESSION with other riders in this country much more than any scooter does so if that's what you're after then a motorcycle IS a better buy... for that. And there are a FEW motorcycles with more features than the usual that would make for a better buy... but then those also COST WAY more. So we're back to the super scooter being better.
But this is deviating from the subject of this thread. So back to the "scheduled" program...
I've been watching Walmart shelves for several months to see if they will restock any Rotella T6 oil. That's my preference for full synthetic. They have a place and price label for it but the shelf remains empty. They have a few other Rotella oils but only a few bottles. Like 15W-40 or 20W-50 or even 5W-20, but not what I need. Then I noticed that they do have specific motorcycle oils formulated for different kinds of bikes or power sports equipment. I've used Super Tech brand oil and filters before and was pleased with them. I ended up buying the Super Tech full synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle oil. That's what the label says. They also have oil specifically geared toward cruisers and also for ATVs. The one I bought has a silhouette of a sport bike on it. Bought enough for the next 2 oil changes.
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Had some time today while my grand daughter was off to preschool and my wife was getting her long walk in as well as some shopping. So I decided to get the oil change done. 2669 was on the odometer. This was the 3000 mile service interval but since I'll be half way to northern TN when the odo ticks over to that I decided to get it done before I leave on my trip. I also checked the Timing Belt (final drive belt) and measured the clearance from the retainer ring to the edge of the belt. That ended up being 1.5 mm at the closest so within tolerance. I'll leave it for now. When the the rear tire gets replaced, or when the belt needs to be replaced, I'll adjust it to be more centered on the rear sprocket. The oil level was right at mid level on the dip stick before I started. I like having a dip stick instead of the sight glass. I've had a sight glass on all my bikes except my Gold Wing 16 years ago. After the oil change I added about 2.6 L oil. That's all it takes for just the oil change without an oil filter change. Every oil change after this will be with a filter change as well and that should be 2.7 L. This job is easier on the AK than any other bike. Even though there are 2 engine oil drain plugs (one for the engine side of a small divider inside the reservoir and one for the clutch side), both plugs are on the side of the bottom edge of the engine and easily accessed without removing any panels. There is no final drive oil or "transmission" oil to change as on the Burgman (which I always did at the same time as changing engine oil). I reset the oil mile reading and am all set to go until the next interval at 6000 miles. That will be the last short interval oil change so I'll be able to settle into a 6000 mile oil change interval after that.
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Brake fluid draws moisture and will cause caliper corrosion and ABS systems to fail if left unchanged too long. A buddy has a business selling used BMW parts; he says he sells a lot of ABS units to BMW owners who don't regularly change brake fluid. I always use a new can when I change mine; once the can has been opened it will start to absorb moisture.
If your caliper sticks, causing the wheel to drag it may well be due to corrosion. I bought a Grandvista with 20K miles and the rear wheel dragged: the caliper was full of corrosion. A new caliper plus a change of fluid solved the problem.
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We might be the rare few who prefer a dip stick over site windows!
My 400 Burgman had to be off the center stand rider off the seat kneel in a puddle at the gas station while holding 489lb scooter level with one hand and check that little oil window down there.
Honda CB500X the same.
Crazy.
Stig
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Brake fluid draws moisture and will cause caliper corrosion and ABS systems to fail if left unchanged too long. A buddy has a business selling used BMW parts; he says he sells a lot of ABS units to BMW owners who don't regularly change brake fluid. I always use a new can when I change mine; once the can has been opened it will start to absorb moisture.
If your caliper sticks, causing the wheel to drag it may well be due to corrosion. I bought a Grandvista with 20K miles and the rear wheel dragged: the caliper was full of corrosion. A new caliper plus a change of fluid solved the problem.
Good reminder for another thread. I don't think 6 months is long enough to warrant changing the brake fluid just yet. I do notice that the service schedule calls for doing just that at 6000 miles or 12 months. A bit early miles wise per almost every other bike I've owned but I am always checking it. I'll likely be there by the end of this year so will be looking to replacing that at that time.
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The BMW manual for my R1100RT said two years between brake fluid changes. I think time passed, rather than miles ridden, is the critical factor and brake fluid is very cheap compared to parts replacement. Also cheap is a brake fluid bleeding kit, which makes the job much neater to do; brake fluid is hell on painted surfaces.
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Oops! It was my BMW mechanic who preached no more than two years between brake fluid changes. I suspect the manual was more conservative.
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Oops! It was my BMW mechanic who preached no more than two years between brake fluid changes. I suspect the manual was more conservative.
You DO realized this thread is about the OIL change on my AK 550 and nothing else?
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Sometimes we are like a conversation over coffee at a sidewalk cafe'......rather than "route-step" dismounted drill.
And that's OK, too.
Participation is encouraged......
Stig
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Sometimes we are like a conversation over coffee at a sidewalk cafe'......rather than "route-step" dismounted drill.
And that's OK, too.
Participation is encouraged......
Stig
I get that... for the forum as a whole. Sometimes when a thread is about houses and someone throws in a tangent conversation about cars it confuses what the intent is going forward. There is plenty of opportunity to start a new thread or drop in brake fluid posts, or generic service schedule posts, in threads already here where that would be entirely consistent.
I'll try to be more generic about the threads I start.
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Sorry, RJS. You are right: it's impolite and inappropriate to comment on anything but your contribution. Thank you for the gentle correction. And thank you Stig for your comment.
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You DO realized this thread is about the OIL change on my AK 550 and nothing else?
if we got upset every time someone altered the subject mid-thread, well, we'd....I'm not sure....because it happens nearly every time! :D
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if we got upset every time someone altered the subject mid-thread, well, we'd....I'm not sure....because it happens nearly every time! :D
I guess I'm not accustomed to threads being regularly hijacked on other forums I read. Usually the admin/moderator moves such posts or gently reminds the one doing the hijacking to place posts in threads where... well... the thread follows the subject initially stated. On some forums that I consider very well managed even sometimes a member will remind about not posting something that tends to hijack a thread with a specific subject. That's why it's called a "thread" since the posts contained in it follow an established... thread. There are many many threads that are intended as being open ended for anyone to discuss anything. In those threads hijacking is not possible because there is no specifically established subject/thread to follow. But there are also threads that have pointed intended subjects about some specific thing. Hijacking these threads leads to confusion about what a thread is really all about. And, yes, hijacking a thread IS a thing.
But no worries. Like I said above, I'll try not to post new threads that are not open ended for any kind of discussion here.
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if we got upset every time someone altered the subject mid-thread, well, we'd....I'm not sure....because it happens nearly every time! :D
Hawk, you get The Spirit of This Forum T-shirt!
Some of us are doing well to remember where we laid the socket wrench during a wheel removal.
My impression is that a stream will wander along a line of community interest... which is the behavior of a casual group of scooter enthusiasts.
Let's stay casual. And participate - especially with photos!
Scooters....even the name is goofy.
Yeah, we're like trying to herd cats, baby!
Stig
T's in the mail.
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This thread has been hijacked by a discussion about hijacking threads.
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This thread has been hijacked by a discussion about hijacking threads.
Yep, since it was already hijacked about another subject and that was seen as normal and expected and accepted practice. Once in a rare while is no big deal, but repeating and promoting such or being persistent about it is encouraging chaos.
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Agree, rjs987. Was just trying to make a humorous observation :).
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For years every scooter forum I read has been very open and posters were able to respond and take the conversation on a new track. It was frowned upon to totally change the main theme of the thread but a discussion about a particular scooter or manufacturer could easily veer off to a discussion of a farkle was fine. When my wife decided she was not going to ride with me anymore, I sold my bike and turned off all forums. Three years later I decided I wanted to ride again so seemed out all the old forums I used to read and new ones that appeared to cover subjects I was interested in. In a couple of the new forums, I found what I considered a strange phenomenon whereby one user could create a thread that was dedicated to their topic and their topic only. Others could post comments about the postings but not change or hijack the thread. I learned to take my cue by the subject. When the op stated it was their trip, reclamation project, etc., I took it that only thread-specific comments were appropriate. That said, over the years I have noted that virtually every one of us has posted in the wrong forum area or responded to the wrong thread. I’ve learned over the years that public praise and private criticism goes a long way. And since this is a scooter forum, we should let back to that discussion.
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Ya. I could skip the oil change this time except i didnt change the oil filter last time and i cant change it this time w/o changing the oil. No biggie.
I mostly just thought changing the coolant and brake fluid already seemed excessively proactive. Especially the brake fluid. Just not sure how either could degrade in such a short amount of time regardless of miles.
Glad you were able to get some action on the hand warmer issue...Pretty sure mine has the same problem
Can I ask what is the Hand Warmer issue? Even though I won't need to try them out for another 5 months or more....
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Can I ask what is the Hand Warmer issue? Even though I won't need to try them out for another 5 months or more....
This is what @jermwars was referring to. I have a separate thread just on that issue that I was having. I ride in some very cold temps during that season so need the heated grips to work well. Especially now that I've sold my heated gloves system since I don't need those with heated grips... right?
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=32011.0 (https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=32011.0)
Check out the threads on the Kymco AK 550 in the [Technical | How To] sub forum. Lots of good information to be had there. I always start the title of my threads (after the first few) with "Kymco AK 550..." just to better identify them.
Oh, and now I also use Kemimoto handlebar muffs to improve my hand comfort when temps get down close to zero F. I plan to put the muffs on the bars sometime around mid November or early December and should be able to put them away sometime in mid March when temps stay warmer than when I'd need them. Give or take a few weeks depending on the weather of course.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=32123.0 (https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=32123.0)
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Just changed my oil....
Put oil in until it was at the first circle as BIKETRIPS suggested on Youtube.
I then ran the engine for 3 minutes and checked the level again.
Now it was barely showing on the stick. At the first line on it.
Do I add more until it is back at the first circle again or do I have to check only after running the engine again or what?
Thanks for any help here!
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Just changed my oil....
Put oil in until it was at the first circle as BIKETRIPS suggested on Youtube.
I then ran the engine for 3 minutes and checked the level again.
Now it was barely showing on the stick. At the first line on it.
Do I add more until it is back at the first circle again or do I have to check only after running the engine again or what?
Thanks for any help here!
I don't think that's unusual Q-S. I tend to run the scooter under load after putting the oil in then leave things about 30 mins to settle before checking the dip stick. I'll then typically need to put a bit more in to bring it up to the required level.