KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: Rusty4589 on August 02, 2022, 03:19:52 AM
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Was riding up a hill when my Like 200i suddenly stopped working. Tried to start, but getting 6 flashes with a pause and then another 6 after that. Any ideas? Doesn't seem to crank.
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Hey Rusty. Sorry you’re having trouble with your 200i. I’m a newbie as well so there are definitely more experienced members on here, but I’d start with the basics. Sounds electrical to me: Dead battery, or some cable came loose?
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Code 6 =battery.
Won't crank...means what?
Engine will not spin? (rotate, turn over?)
..or, it does turn but it will not start?
Big difference in the two!
Miles, age, recent service of any kind, wrecks?
Stig
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Bad earth?
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Hey all,
Thanm you for yhe advice. I have a new Battery that should be here tomorrow. Won't crank as Won't turn over. Bike just shows the 6 flashes and shuts off when I hit the ignition.
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Got the new battery today. Still won't crank (Turnover) Keeps giving me 6 flashes with a short pause and then another 6. All the fuses seem to be okay. Im flabbergasted at this point. Is there a way to turn the motor over manually?
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If you mean kick start it or push start it...no there isn't.
No worries...we'll get this sorted with you as more wake up today🙂
MORE INFO about your scoot is always helpful.
Year manufactured, miles, recent services, wrecks, history of other problems, etc.
Stig
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I like Neil's suggestion about the ground wire.
The negative battery cable is attached along the R side of the engine. You can see it below the rear brake line, here...(https://i.postimg.cc/WzBhSsWC/20220805-081835.jpg)
Check if it is snug?....if too hard to remove and clean, try loosening it then retightening it. An old electrician showed me that trick with hard to reach terminals. Often it restores current flow.
Stig
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Hey Major Tom,
Thank you for all of the help. It's a 2018 Kymco like 200i that i bought direct from the dealer. No crashes or anything, scooter has never been downed unless it just accidently fell over, though i can't remember a time it has happened. Has 3,000 miles on it and started doing this after i went up a steep hill. Almost makes me think i blew the motor out. I unhooked the negative from the battery post and cleaned it like you stated. Still getting the same six flashes but this time i saw it 4 times in a row.
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Hey Major Tom,
Thank you for all of the help. It's a 2018 Kymco like 200i that i bought direct from the dealer. No crashes or anything, scooter has never been downed unless it just accidently fell over, though i can't remember a time it has happened. Has 3,000 miles on it and started doing this after i went up a steep hill. Almost makes me think i blew the motor out. I unhooked the negative from the battery post and cleaned it like you stated. Still getting the same six flashes but this time i saw it 4 times in a row.
RED KILL SWITCH in correct RUN position?
You need electrical current & contact to move the starter motor.
It seems you are not getting that....because your starter does not move, and thus engine does not move.
This happened while riding.
Are you very certain about the fuses?
Headlight on with key on?
Sound of fuel pump running for a few seconds when you turn key on?
With key on, and you pull the brake lever - does the BRAKE light work? (not the tail light - the BRAKE light)
(unless you were going over the Rockies dragging a couch - you did not blow the motor! ....you DO see a good level of oil on the dipstick, yes??. You unscrew it, wipe it off and then just set it touching the hole - do not screw it in to get proper reading on the dipstick.
Please do look at the ground point for the negative cable-to-frame (photo above) . Has it vibrated loose, or is the wire broken?
We're looking for how far that battery's current is getting.
Probably will be removing the seat and under-bucket to look more at things.
Stig
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Red Kill switch was in the run postion. Yes. i checked all the fuses that were near the battery. I saw 2 and both were fine when i checked them with my multimeter. Headlight is on with the key. Fuel pump does turn on, and Brake light does go off when grasping the brake lever. Good amount of oil as i had just changed it a few hundred before this, still looked fresh when i pulled it this morning. Cable is in good condition just as in the photo above.
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Time to remove seat and underseat bucket as a one piece unit.
He needs to jump that starter relay..doesn't he folks?
Start button shorted?
Key on....battery lighting things up....but no cranking.
Would a bad starter relay shut off the scooter mid ride??!
Coil died?
Not the spark plug, cap or wire...because getting no crank at all.
Jump in here folks....I'm on Group W bench miles from home...and it's 🌧.
Stig
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Starter relay seems fine. Jumped the solenoid and it sparked and made. Maybe starter or coil pack?
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Starter relay seems fine. Jumped the solenoid and it sparked and made. Maybe starter or coil pack?
It didn't spin the engine?
Starter going out....would that shut off scooter while riding?
But dead coil would.
Be very rare for 4 yr old coil to pack it in, but possible I guess.
These LIKE200I'S are pretty bullet proof.
Stig
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Worth buying a new coil pack? Any good place to buy a new one? Engine did not spin.
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Best to stick with stock KYMCO part....
But first....
(https://i.postimg.cc/YjKNcqzm/coil.jpg)
https://www.leesonsarcticcat.com/OEMpartfinder#/Kymco_USA/KA40AC_LIKE_200_LX(2011)/F19_-_Wire_Harness/04%7c%7e49%7c%7e0005/04%7c%7e49%7c%7e0057/y
Stig
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Tested the starter motor. Looks like it's working just fine.
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Tested the starter motor. Looks like it's working just fine.
And the coil? With the multi-meter.
Stig
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Terminal resistance seemed to jump around from .6 to .8. Resistance from the spark plug wire end jumped around as well. Seemed to settle at 13.5
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IMHO we are talking two different issues here in this case.
A) motor does not spin
gives several points to check why...
-starter itself too less power from battery
-battery cables really tight
-starter relais
-ground cabling
-battery
-all switches
-fuses again and their terminals
B) motor stalls during ride (if runs?)
-again harness
-ignition coil
-sparkplug and cap incl. high tension cable
(frails out sometimes, causes such symptoms)
C) ECU big plug correct set?
For now the failure code can be neclected, see them later.
All this points should be checked and ruled out before any sparepart is bought.
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Hey all,
Thanm you for yhe advice. I have a new Battery that should be here tomorrow. Won't crank as Won't turn over. Bike just shows the 6 flashes and shuts off when I hit the ignition.
When you say "shuts off when I hit the ignition" do you mean the bike shuts down as if you turned the key off? No lights, etc...? If so, then a shorted starter button makes sense. But would that have stopped the bike in the first place?
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No, more like i just don't hear a crank, The lights dim when i hold the starter. I hear the fuel pump and starter relay, but the bike doesn't even try to turn over. That's why i keep thinking the engine seized.
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IMHO we are talking two different issues here in this case.
A) motor does not spin
gives several points to check why...
-starter itself too less power from battery
-battery cables really tight
-starter relais
-ground cabling
-battery
-all switches
-fuses again and their terminals
B) motor stalls during ride (if runs?)
-again harness
-ignition coil
-sparkplug and cap incl. high tension cable
(frails out sometimes, causes such symptoms)
C) ECU big plug correct set?
For now the failure code can be neclected, see them later.
All this points should be checked and ruled out before any sparepart is bought.
Thank you for the advice. What's a good way of going and checking all the systems. Haven't done much electrical troubleshooting before.
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@Rusty4589, sorry but I cannot explain all this system checks in detail.
Please try to get someone with a multimeter and basic electrical or electronic understanding to follow my suggested steps.
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I can see that a bad coil would stop the engine from running well enough albeit unusual for a coil to go out so soon. The part that I am not making the connection to is the engine not turning over. A bad starter would do that but as you said Stig that wouldn't stop an engine while running.
Rusty4589 can you hear the starter trying to engage? Forgive me if you answered that already.
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No, that's the weird part. I took the starter out and tested it with jumpers and a 12v marine battery and it was fine. For whatever reason it seem like the engine is seized.
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@Rusty, one more way to check is:
-CVT cover off and looking inside whether there is somethng blocked on that side
-motor should crank without CVT on too
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No, that's the weird part. I took the starter out and tested it with jumpers and a 12v marine battery and it was fine. For whatever reason it seem like the engine is seized.
You could check this by removing that center panel below the seat, remove spark plug.
Go to right side of engine reach in center of black plastic cover with a socket on short extension and try turning the engine clockwise.
This is where you turn engine to get TDC for valve adjustment.
Stig
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You could check this by removing that center panel below the seat, remove spark plug.
Go to right side of engine reach in center of black plastic cover with a socket on short extension and try turning the engine clockwise.
This is where you turn engine to get TDC for valve adjustment.
Stig
IMO Too risky in case of a real blockage, because this airfan consists of plastic and this central 17mm nut is made from same material. Danger of shearing it off.
Better to remove this CVT cover and rotate counterclockwise at its CVT nut.
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IMO Too risky in case of a real blockage, because this airfan consists of plastic and this central 17mm nut is made from same material. Danger of shearing it off.
Better to remove this CVT cover and rotate counterclockwise at its CVT nut.
It's a 14mm, and with the spark plug removed the engine will spin easily....0 compression.
I've adjusted my LIKE200I valves this was many times....why?..because it puts you on same side of engine which has the port for observing your TDC timing mark!
IF engine does not spin freely - Stop!
Might be seized !....which will be the first recorded case of a seized engine on a LIKE200I on this forum!......and I should have believed this man from the get go🙃
OP...do as you see fit.
Stig
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It's a 14mm, and with the spark plug removed the engine will spin easily....0 compression.
I've adjusted my LIKE200I valves this was many times....why?..because it puts you on same side of engine which has the port for observing your TDC timing mark!
IF engine does not spin freely - Stop!
Might be seized !....which will be the first recorded case of a seized engine on a LIKE200I on this forum!......and I should have believed this man from the get go🙃
OP...do as you see fit.
Stig
So uhh, looks like i might be the first case. I took out the spark plug and tried to rotate the 14mm plastic nut. It wouldn't budge. So i took off the CVT cover and tried the 17mm CVT nut and it was only allowing it me to make a minor turn. I did try to start the bike and actually heard it try to turn over for a microsecond. Looks to be a possible case of a seized engine.
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Well, sorry t hear that Rusty
Could you describe as fully as possible what you were doing when it quit on you.
Going up a hill...really long hill"...wide open throttle?....very hot day?....using decent brand of fuel?....been riding very long that day?
OK....I'm no engine rebuild expert of any kind....but, I would remove the valve cover and look at things there. Anything obviously out of order?
This sounded dumb to me - but was tried with success by an owner with an engine which had tightened up on him, and shut off.
He put a small amount of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. Replaced the spark plug, let it sit for a few hours - hit the start button and it turned over and started - with a good bit of smoke until the oil cleared.
Kick that around with some of your engine friends - don't take my advice on something like that.
Probably doesn't make you feel any better - but I'm pretty certain that yours is the first report of a non-50CC Kymco engine which has done this.
Stig
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Well, sorry t hear that Rusty
Could you describe as fully as possible what you were doing when it quit on you.
Going up a hill...really long hill"...wide open throttle?....very hot day?....using decent brand of fuel?....been riding very long that day?
OK....I'm no engine rebuild expert of any kind....but, I would remove the valve cover and look at things there. Anything obviously out of order?
This sounded dumb to me - but was tried with success by an owner with an engine which had tightened up on him, and shut off.
He put a small amount of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. Replaced the spark plug, let it sit for a few hours - hit the start button and it turned over and started - with a good bit of smoke until the oil cleared.
Kick that around with some of your engine friends - don't take my advice on something like that.
Probably doesn't make you feel any better - but I'm pretty certain that yours is the first report of a non-50CC Kymco engine which has done this.
Stig
Hey Stig,
I live in Washington, and this particular hill has a pretty decent incline and is about 2.5 miles long. Throttle was wide open and the weather was probably about 70. Keep in mind i am a bigger guy myself. Fuel was decent. Had filled up at shell. Everything under the valve cover looks nice and clean. Cams look smooth (No gouges) something just seems to stopping the motor from moving foward. though it does move if i rotate clockwise. I feel like i have a bent valve.
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Next step:
-fan cover off
-CVT (front part) completely off
-sparkplug out
-valve cover off
Now I would remove the scooters middle plastic parts.
-check whether something is blocked either on fan side or at cams
-turn loose both valve adjustment studs
-spray some thin oil into cylinder
-put CVT nut on and try fore and back
Has there been enough motoroil in it when it stalled?
If not, your main bearings are most probably finished.
If there was enough oil, your piston/pistonrings could cause this blockage.
Not a big deal, just a new piston, rings and gaskets.
This cylinder is very durable, because of its coating, and mostly not demaged