KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: Quick-Star24 on April 15, 2023, 09:47:54 PM
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Had to get a new rear tire for my AK550.
When I went to put it all back together I am having trouble getting the caliper back on the Disc.
And I sure don't want to have to beat it back on. Surely that can't be the way to do it.
All I did was take it off and let it hang while I went and got the tires changed out.
Never worked on brakes before and so I'm dead in the water here.....with perfect weather today!
Jeff
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Definitely don't beat the caliper back on. It should slip on with just a little jiggling and moving around to get the pads over the lip at the disk edge.
Did you make absolutely certain you did NOT activate the parking brake or that you did NOT touch the rear brake lever?
Doing either of those with the caliper off the disk will cause the pistons to be pushed out and make it impossible to get the caliper back on without spreading the pads.
When I replaced the rear tire, and the front tire for that matter, and took the caliper off the disk I inserted a paint stick wrapped in some card stock (a bit of junk mail) to keep the space between the pads.
If the caliper will not fit over the thickness of the disk you can use a few putty knifes (putty spatulas) between the pads and pry them apart. Do this slowly. I use a thin pry bar between the putty knives to do this if needed.
This is also assuming the short spacer is in place in the right way (should fit up against the bearing race on that side).
Here is the document I wrote up and posted in a thread in this sub forum for doing the rear wheel remove and replace, including replacing the tire on the rim and balancing with Dyna Beads.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing)
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Definitely don't beat the caliper back on. It should slip on with just a little jiggling and moving around to get the pads over the lip at the disk edge.
Did you make absolutely certain you did NOT activate the parking brake or that you did NOT touch the rear brake lever?
Doing either of those with the caliper off the disk will cause the pistons to be pushed out and make it impossible to get the caliper back on without spreading the pads.
When I replaced the rear tire, and the front tire for that matter, and took the caliper off the disk I inserted a paint stick wrapped in some card stock (a bit of junk mail) to keep the space between the pads.
If the caliper will not fit over the thickness of the disk you can use a few putty knifes (putty spatulas) between the pads and pry them apart. Do this slowly. I use a thin pry bar between the putty knives to do this if needed.
This is also assuming the short spacer is in place in the right way (should fit up against the bearing race on that side).
Here is the document I wrote up and posted in a thread in this sub forum for doing the rear wheel remove and replace, including replacing the tire on the rim and balancing with Dyna Beads.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing)
Thanks RJ!
I never went anywhere near the parking brake or brake levers as there was no need to do anything with them.
I can separate the pads with a screw driver but they are not slipping on into position to bolt them on.
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Definitely don't beat the caliper back on. It should slip on with just a little jiggling and moving around to get the pads over the lip at the disk edge.
Did you make absolutely certain you did NOT activate the parking brake or that you did NOT touch the rear brake lever?
Doing either of those with the caliper off the disk will cause the pistons to be pushed out and make it impossible to get the caliper back on without spreading the pads.
When I replaced the rear tire, and the front tire for that matter, and took the caliper off the disk I inserted a paint stick wrapped in some card stock (a bit of junk mail) to keep the space between the pads.
If the caliper will not fit over the thickness of the disk you can use a few putty knifes (putty spatulas) between the pads and pry them apart. Do this slowly. I use a thin pry bar between the putty knives to do this if needed.
This is also assuming the short spacer is in place in the right way (should fit up against the bearing race on that side).
Here is the document I wrote up and posted in a thread in this sub forum for doing the rear wheel remove and replace, including replacing the tire on the rim and balancing with Dyna Beads.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing)
I got it back on RJ.....not sure what exactly solved the issue. Just keep messing with the gap between pads and all of a sudden it slipped right down into place.
Loved the article and photos you posted for this same job.
Jeff
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Definitely don't beat the caliper back on. It should slip on with just a little jiggling and moving around to get the pads over the lip at the disk edge.
Did you make absolutely certain you did NOT activate the parking brake or that you did NOT touch the rear brake lever?
Doing either of those with the caliper off the disk will cause the pistons to be pushed out and make it impossible to get the caliper back on without spreading the pads.
When I replaced the rear tire, and the front tire for that matter, and took the caliper off the disk I inserted a paint stick wrapped in some card stock (a bit of junk mail) to keep the space between the pads.
If the caliper will not fit over the thickness of the disk you can use a few putty knifes (putty spatulas) between the pads and pry them apart. Do this slowly. I use a thin pry bar between the putty knives to do this if needed.
This is also assuming the short spacer is in place in the right way (should fit up against the bearing race on that side).
Here is the document I wrote up and posted in a thread in this sub forum for doing the rear wheel remove and replace, including replacing the tire on the rim and balancing with Dyna Beads.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1za6fOBjIUv364F9nwP9_mNgzOEtrC0ThA4GcpAJxHgE/edit?usp=sharing)
The first time taking the rear wheel off I had a bit of trouble with the caliper going back on as stated here. Now I have taken much of the bike apart to paint it and have a new problem with the rear brake.....the wheel don't want to turn. The caliper went on OK with a little giggling.
It does look like the brake DISC is not centered in the Groove on the caliper. But when put the bolts in and tighten them you would think this centers it all......looks like I gotta take the caliper off and try to figure it out.....but I would love for there to be a way to ADJUST it while it is on and bolted up.
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The first time taking the rear wheel off I had a bit of trouble with the caliper going back on as stated here. Now I have taken much of the bike apart to paint it and have a new problem with the rear brake.....the wheel don't want to turn. The caliper went on OK with a little giggling.
It does look like the brake DISC is not centered in the Groove on the caliper. But when put the bolts in and tighten them you would think this centers it all......looks like I gotta take the caliper off and try to figure it out.....but I would love for there to be a way to ADJUST it while it is on and bolted up.
Possible to get a photo of that?
If you mean side to side between the brake pads then that MIGHT be normal. Verify the assembly to make sure the spacers are in right. Verify the caliper is seated properly on the caliper mount. The bolts will only tighten to what is allowed when the caliper mounting bit is tight to the bike side caliper mount.
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Possible to get a photo of that?
If you mean side to side between the brake pads then that MIGHT be normal. Verify the assembly to make sure the spacers are in right. Verify the caliper is seated properly on the caliper mount. The bolts will only tighten to what is allowed when the caliper mounting bit is tight to the bike side caliper mount.
Going to take the bike to the shop friday morning. Not going to mess with it any longer. Thanks for the suggestions.....
Jeff