KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => People GT 300i => Topic started by: agilebda on August 12, 2024, 05:43:32 PM
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Hello Everyone.
Today I jumped on my scoot for the 1st time in a month. Noticed that the overheat bar jumped up to 3 flashing bars on my dash. I turned around went back home and noticed a drip from the waterpump housing. It also appears to be a hole of some sort as if a pressure fitting dropped out ot leaking. I should have been more aware few months ago when I saw everything getting dirty and wet with oil/fluid on the casing. Please see attached video. The cooling fan kicks in with no issues. Let me know what you all think my next move should be. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LhGWfcks8el3DLtkxWue-0en9cf9XYS4/view?usp=drivesdk (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LhGWfcks8el3DLtkxWue-0en9cf9XYS4/view?usp=drivesdk)
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Did some research on cyclepedia. Looks like the mechanical seal needs replacing.
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Nice that these appear to be easily rebuildable!
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Easy repair if you have tools at hand like, deep bearing pullers and a heat gun (pls see link, maybe helps). Take a whole repair kit, pays off.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=33849.0
Lay the sccot on its LH side for this enterprise. Refilling coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose until coolant apears.
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Easy repair if you have tools at hand like, deep bearing pullers and a heat gun (pls see link, maybe helps). Take a whole repair kit, pays off.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=33849.0
Lay the sccot on its LH side for this enterprise. Refilling coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose until coolant apears.
Hi Ruffus.
Thanks very much for this info. Do they sell a repair kit? Or di I have to put one together via parts list? Can you let me know which part numbers that I need?
Thanks
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Sorry, no part numbers. I take the whole kit from my trusted dealer. Its between €45,- to 75,- model depending.
People 200/300, Downtown 200/300 same kit.
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Thanks so much for this Ruffus.
I order those parts. Looking forward to fixing.
Can you sterr me in the right direction to a deep bearing puller? I've searched AMAZON and loads of options.
Thanks
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Well I can't say this fix was difficulty it was surely tedious. After all afternoon of working on this issue, I'm having difficulty bleeding the coolant system. The fan wouldn't kick in at all. The fan kicked in before the fix so I'm guessing that the fan and switch is in working order. What am I doing wrong with the coolant system?
Attached pics of the old seal.
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..as already said...
Lay the sccot on its LH side for this enterprise. Refilling and bleeding coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose until coolant apears.
Test the fan by shorting its plugged two cables with a piece of wire.
Kicks in. YES/NO
If NO check connectors on your temp feeler.
This sensor needs a pretty hot coolant to start the fan.
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..as already said...
Lay the sccot on its LH side for this enterprise. Refilling and bleeding coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose until coolant apears.
Test the fan by shorting its plugged two cables with a piece of wire.
Kicks in. YES/NO
If NO check connectors on your temp feeler.
This sensor needs a pretty hot coolant to start the fan.
Thanks Ruffus. I will try that method.
Unfortunately my mechanical seal is still leaking. Looks like I have to go back to square one and change the seal again. I feel like crying. Lol.
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Ok so fan switch not kicking in. Changed the mechanical seal again and it's not leaking. Leaned the scoot on its side to bleed system and the fan switch not kicking in. However when the third temperature bar on the display pops up I shut the engine off. When the engine shut off I hear a gurgle noise as if air is still present in the system. I will do the wire test today to see if the fan kicks in as RUFFUS stated.
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Refilling and bleeding coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose down at the coolant pump until coolant apears.
Q: do you have the front part with headlight off to refill from radiators side?
Filling the expansion bowl only will not lead to sucess.
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Refilling and bleeding coolant is easy when you open the SMALL hose down at the coolant pump until coolant apears.
Q: do you have the front part with headlight off to refill from radiators side?
Filling the expansion bowl only will not lead to sucess.
Ok I see. Yes the expansion tank has coolant in there. I will drain and try again. I have been taking the small hose off the Thermostat housing and waiting for a steady stream of coolant. I've been refilling the radiator yes. Perhaps my error is having coolant in the expansion tank. I will try again this evening after work.
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If nothing else helps,
-take a waterhose
-put it on moderate stream
-plug/ hold it to/into the small hose
-radiator plug OPEN
-rinse it tru for a while until system is full
(water running out of radiator)
-replug the small hose
-start /run motor for a few minutes
STOP motor
-open small hose let partly water out
-refill radiator with coolant
START motor
-repeat several times until coolant appears at small hose
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Ok Ruffus and Everyone.
Took some time out of my schedule to further work on my scoot. I bypassed and ran wire direct to battery from fan and it kicked in. So my best guess that it can be the relay or thermoswitch.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wTfnjZYv9ixIr7NjQ15lY7juGy3-7ADN/view?usp=drivesdk
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One thing came in my mind!
Did you check/renew all fuses?
If yes and okay, then interchange relays
Thermoswitch: both cables off, connect them with a paperclip or similar
-ignition on, fan should kick in
-kicks in = thermoswitch faulty
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Thanks Ruffus.
Checked the fuses today and all were fine. Not quite sure that I understand you on the relay paperclip test. Can you show me with this diagram attached?
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With everything in place, take this two cables which lead to your thermoswitch, off.
-connect them with a paperclip or short piece of wire
-ignition on
-fan kicks in?
If YES, your thermoswitch needs to be renewd.
With interchanging relays I meant, change horn relay with indicator, or otherwise to see whether they are ok, as far possible from connectors configuration.
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With everything in place, take this two cables which lead to your thermoswitch, off.
-connect them with a paperclip or short piece of wire
-ignition on
-fan kicks in?
If YES, your thermoswitch needs to be renewd.
With interchanging relays I meant, change horn relay with indicator, or otherwise to see whether they are ok, as far possible from connectors configuration.
Thanks very much. I understand now. Will give this a try tonight.
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Tried everything with no luck. Extremely difficult to pop that bleed screw or hose back on when the coolant is boiling hot.
I changed the thermoswitch. New relay. I'm stomped!
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My last straw:
-is your repaired coolantpump really working?
There is the chance to block the impeller/bearing by wrong mounting or too much pressure when installing.
Is there the possibility something got into a hose, a piece of rubber etc.?
Open the thermostate housing, take the thermostate completely out, close again and try (pls see pic)
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My last straw:
-is your repaired coolantpump really working?
There is the chance to block the impeller/bearing by wrong mounting or too much pressure when installing.
Is there the possibility something got into a hose, a piece of rubber etc.?
Open the thermostate housing, take the thermostate completely out, close again and try (pls see pic)
Hello Ruffus. I will give this a shot. I'm pretty sure that the pump is working fine. When i revv the throttle up when bleeding the coolant, the stream pisses out stronger as the rpm increases. I have a new relay on the way. I will give it a shot with cleaning out the thermostat . One thing that I noticed is when the coolant gets hot, the radiator is cool as if the coolant isn't flowing through that area.
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....the coolant gets hot, the radiator is cool as if the coolant isn't flowing through that area....
This might mean either the thermostate is blocking or some hose is clogged.
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Okay...so I've tried everything that Ruffus has stated and suggested. That fan still wouldnt kick in. How do I know if the head gasket isn't or is blown and needs to be replaced? I don't see any coolant dripping from the head gasket area. This is the only thing that I can think of which will prevent the fan switch kicking in.
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If the headgasket would be shot., you would have steamy white emissions from your muffler.
Pls go from beginning everything through again.
-pump
-hoses
-fan direct connected
-thermostate out
-system pressure hosed through with waterhose
-radiator off scooter and hosed /rinsed
The culprit must be found.
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Hello All. Well happy new year to you all.
I gave it a try again after flushing the system with a medium pressured water hose. The fan motor kicked in at 108 degrees. Exactly what I was looking for, however it only kicked in for a maximum of 7 seconds. Could it be air still entering the system? I will tighten all hoses again and try.
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I have no experience on scooters like your's but you need to make sure all hose clamps at the scooter's cooling system are still tight.
Hose clamps on rubber hoses tend to loose tightness over time and this causes water and air leaks at the cooling system. This causes air pockets which disrupt effective coolant flow, which causes uneven heat distribution - and this can cause a cooling fan to come on for a short period.
This actually has happened to my Silverwing. Some hose clamps have lost tightness over time and there were small water leaks. So small that I never noticed a coolant leak - the coolant actually evaporated due to engine heat and I never noticed anything.
When the engine cooled down afterwards air obviously got sucked into the cooling system at the hoses with loose hose clamps.
All engines normally run warmer if cooling systems are not properly pressurized. And loose hose clamps surely cause lower pressure and overheating problems at any given engine.
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I have no experience on scooters like your's but you need to make sure all hose clamps at the scooter's cooling system are still tight.
Hose clamps on rubber hoses tend to loose tightness over time and this causes water and air leaks at the cooling system. This causes air pockets which disrupt effective coolant flow, which causes uneven heat distribution - and this can cause a cooling fan to come on for a short period.
This actually has happened to my Silverwing. Some hose clamps have lost tightness over time and there were small water leaks. So small that I never noticed a coolant leak - the coolant actually evaporated due to engine heat and I never noticed anything.
When the engine cooled down afterwards air obviously got sucked into the cooling system at the hoses with loose hose clamps.
All engines normally run warmer if cooling systems are not properly pressurized. And loose hose clamps surely cause lower pressure and overheating problems at any given engine.
So hello guys. Decided to give it a try again today. The bike heated up within 1 minute of idling. Never seen this so fast. I tightened up all clamped hoses. Gets to normal operating temp within 45 seconds (2 bars) then goes to 3 bars within 60 seconds or so. I'm inclined to think that it's a head gasket job. What are your thoughts?
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Did you do a test on the thernostat to see whether it opens ? If not you should remove the thermostat, put it in boiling water and have a close look at it to see whether it opens.
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If the headgasket would be shot., you would have steamy white emissions from your muffler.
Pls go from beginning everything through again.
-pump
-hoses
-fan direct connected
-thermostate out
-system pressure hosed through with waterhose
-radiator off scooter and hosed /rinsed
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Hello Guys.
Thanks...the only thing I did not try was the thermostat. I will do this today and let you know my findings.