KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: TANWare on May 21, 2011, 10:43:06 AM
-
I have been thinking about jazzing up the bike bit more and looking for ideas. My thought currently;
1.) I would like to do some minimalist graphics and/or pinstripes.
2.) A removable top box that really goes well with the overall design.
3.) I like the alumimum look foot rests I've seen on the Nikita's
4.) Rear light conversion to LED's including the license plate light.
Anyone else with idea's here or other ideas? while the bike is awseeome looking, making it look even better while possibly adding more functionality is a good thing IMHO...................
-
I would like a slightly bigger windscreen. I sent an e-mail to Givi they said they have them but not yet avalible in the US as of yet.
-
I just ordered a Givi windshield in Canada and it is available mid June. I have that, a tunnel bag (scooter bag), and a v46 liner bag all coming at the same time from Canada motor cycle.
-
I saw the bigger wind screen picks, I wasn't too thrilled but it may grow on me, I'd like to see some pics of box's on these though to get a better idea........................
-
When I get everything together I will shoot some pictures and upload them. I am not going to install the hid xenon low beams until after the first inspection. BTW on another thread you mentioned holding the dimmer switch to get both hi and low lights on at the same time. The flash switch for passing turns on the hi beams while leaving the low beams on. I need to do some testing to see if the system will support 140 watts and still charge the battery. I would like to set this up on the headlight switch so he low beams stay on all the time.
-
NJ just did away with MC inspection and no more registartion stickers as well for bikes. The headlight high/low beam fuse is 15A so it would be ok there. The charging fuse is 30A so ok there as well. I think driving the systm should be alright but I wouldn't want to idle long like that.
I want HID's both on low and high beams. I think then is may be ok to not have all four bulbs burning, again I could be wrong here.......
-
HID's take a big hit when you first turn them on and they have to warm up. On my system, they will be only low beams and this is why I want to keep them on all the time. This is all 2 lane hi way here so one does not stay on hi beam for a long time. I just have a hard time seeing brown deer and brown moose with brown head lights. I much prefer the 6000 degree blue/white lights for this. Both my old Ford truck and my People S 125 have them installed.
-
HID's take a big hit when you first turn them on and they have to warm up. On my system, they will be only low beams and this is why I want to keep them on all the time. This is all 2 lane hi way here so one does not stay on hi beam for a long time. I just have a hard time seeing brown deer and brown moose with brown head lights. I much prefer the 6000 degree blue/white lights for this. Both my old Ford truck and my People S 125 have them installed.
How long is the warm up, I am totally unfamiliar with HID's?
-
A couple of seconds from cold, less if they have just been off for a short time. Not good if one is turned off and the other isn't at full brightness yet. On my truck and my S 125 they both use what is called bi-xenon bulbs which move ahead and back for low and hi switch. The H8 bulb this bike uses is only one filament so would be switched off normally when you go to hi beam. When I first put them in my People S 125, Kymco canada tech told me to remove them immediately as they would take out the stator. It has been 4 years now and I am still waiting for the failure.
The lights are 35 watt same as the normal h8 bulb. YOu run another power line from the battery to handle the turn on surge.
I don't need them until fall so I will do some testing before I do the final install and this won't happen until after my first inspection. I have about 500K on the unit now so it will probably be next week if they can get it in.
-
How big is the surge, do they even rate it?
-
They are fused at 15 amps but it is just a flash to ignite them and that is on the direct wire from the battery.
-
They are fused at 15 amps but it is just a flash to ignite them and that is on the direct wire from the battery.
The PnP kits that are available do not seem to have the normal wire for he flash and just run of the ballast. Now there seems to be a relay kit for those systems that have issues with flashing or only one light igniting and I think that allows the power tap in. I don't think that supplys the ability to have both low and high beam at the same time.
If these need that you are probably better off creating your own relay setup. All you need is to run one positive line in from the battery, two single throw/double pole normal off (actually you only need 1 single pole & 1 double pole) relays and some connectors to splice it all in.
I was also thinking about the battery and changing over to a Deep Discharge AGM battery. Fewer worries about maintenance and it should isolate the charging system somewhat from those surges. Again this is just a thought, I haven’t made any final decisions yet as this is unfamiliar territory.
-
I am quit familiar with the systems as I have been using them for years. I already have 2 motor cycle kits ready to go in. It is just not a hi priority right now to put in. As far as the battery, the one on the people S 125 did well for the first year but I was hard on it. I purchased another one which was not properly prepared and it failed in a few months. The next one I purchased and prepared myself following the instructions with it. It is now on its second year and that is after not taking it out of the bike over winter. (my bad). I didn't pick up this bike for an extra day just so they could do the battery properly on it.
In the mean time I will do some testing of the 4 light system using the flash switch while riding. I don't usually run hi beams that long so should not be a problem but will see in time.
-
I suggest the AGM battery as I am a great one for the "My Bad" scenario's. The reason I suggest doing the relays myself too is the fact that a standard setup will not do the four lights at one time. Easy enough to design a circuit as we are not really redesigning the wheel here, a fairly simple circuit will do.
Just to be safe I'd like to get the rear lights switched over to LED's first to lower power consumption there. Not that it needs to be done but also it should lower the need for bulb replacement so 2 birds with one stone as they say.
While the tub is out I'd like to get a power port in the tub hooked direct to the battery with a quick disconnect. This would give alot of options up to even a port to port connection to charge or jump the bike. The included power port is ignition switchable limiting some options.
With doing the HID's it would be easy enough, since we are running a power line from the battery, to also setup a third relay for ingition on power to a port we could use for heated gloves and the like............
Lot's & lot's to do as they say.................
-
I haven't had time to pull the license light but ordered the LED's for the Tail and Turn signal. Ocne out I'll be sure what the battery is then look into an AGM battery. They say to make up for lack of cold cranking amps to add 20% to the capacity. So instead of 10A I supposedly need a 12AH or better..........................
-
I installed the LED's, right now without the load resistors. As Whisper had mentioned it works without the load resistors on the turn signals but 2 things there.
1.) When flashing the light on the dash does not flash on aand off but dims.
2.) when you first start up in the moring it will not flash untill you either have the engine running or have riddeen a bit and there is a top charge on the battery with the engine offf.
On the second I am not sure is the load resistor will fix that, I probably at a later point will put them in as I ordered them as well.
On the stop light I didn't order the 18 SIMD but the 45T in RED. I did this as the video's I've seen with LE tail lights have a purplish hue using the cool white. This keeps the tail light RED and with the amber turn signlas gives off a matched level of light without the brakes applied.
Below is the invoice as I ordered them..............
Qty | Product / Options | Price/ea |
============================================================
2 | BAU15S-x18-T: 18HP-LED 1056 LED Tower bulb| $ 17.95 |
BAU15S-A18-T: Amber
------------------------------------------------------------
1 | 1157-x45-T: 45HP-LED BAY15D Tower Bulb | $ 24.95 |
1157-R45-T: 1157 Red
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | RL-650: Tail Light Load Resistor kit | $ 4.95 |
------------------------------------------------------------
Edit;
The front mirror LED's also do not fully blink on and off either. The do a dim amd bright blink. Tomorow I'll put the load resistors in, I prefer the normal function.............
-
The reason for not going out properly is not enough load on the flasher. Putting on the resistors should fix it but now you use the same amount of current as the bulbs did. The fix is rather to change the flasher to one that is made for LED.
-
Agreed, the resistor loads the circuit increasing draw. We really don't care too much about that as the flashers rarely run. What I wouldn't want is it on the tail/stop light. So I placed them in this morning. What a pain, there is like no room to work there btu several explatives later it got done.
With the load resistor all is good in the world again. Every thing works as it should. With the turn signals again I was more worried about the brightness and bulb longevity is why I went LED there. The added bonus to the tail/stop light is the lower power draw since that is always on.
-
I didn't find it bad to get to the lights in the back when I wired in my lights in the top case. On another note, I decided to put in the HID head lights yesterday. Got the front end apart went to install and found they sent me the wrong bulbs. put it back together and called HIDcountry. Another week while I wait for the proper bulbs.
The lights are already controlled by relay so there may not be any additional wiring required. I will find out when I install next week.
-
Were the bulbs H8? I ask as I plan to do the hid's myself. Also yes they are relay but the relay by defualt kills the Low bean with high beam on, or is there an area we can rewire etc. to leave the low beam on?
-
The bulbs I ordered were H8 but they sent H7. Huge difference in the base. They are being exchanged but waisted time.
-
The bulbs I ordered were H8 but they sent H7. Huge difference in the base. They are being exchanged but waisted time.
That stinks, you would think they would have gotten that right..................
-
Seems for me if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any at all. :)
-
Seems for me if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any at all. :)
I know the feeling all too well. Was the box marked H8, or did they just totally blow it?
-
Well 1,600 miles and so far all good.
1.) I am still hedging on the best storage, love the look of the v46 on these bikes size wise but am torn for the storage of the E55.
2.) I am leaning more away from 20x12 14GR DR Pulley slider rollers and more towards maybe eventually Dr Pulley 20x12 16GR when they need replacing.
3.) K&N doesn't have an air filter, Ligh Tech does have a washable one for the DT 300i 2009. I guess it is the same, so if K&N doesn't com up with one soon my order may have to come from out of the US.
4.) Still no oil loss yet, but time will tell. So far I am happy with the performance with the bike power and MPG wise.
5.) the muffler stays, I don't need the minimal performance increase to justify the extra amount of noise.
6.) HIDs are on hold. I don't want to use the extra 2 bulbs on high beams (because of bulb warmup if the lows turn off). I know it is only 70 watts or 1/10 a HP but on these low power, high MPG, machines that could make a difference. For now I am going to try 4x H8 PIAA Extra Super White 35w=70w bulbs. Worst case they go to my Sonata fog lights later on.
-
Well 1,600 miles and so far all good.
6.) HIDs are on hold. I don't want to use the extra 2 bulbs on high beams (because of bulb warmup if the lows turn off). I know it is only 70 watts or 1/10 a HP but on these low power, high MPG, machines that could make a difference. For now I am going to try 4x H8 PIAA Extra Super White 35w=70w bulbs. Worst case they go to my Sonata fog lights later on.
Still waiting for the proper bulbs on mine. I checked the charging and it is no problem with all 4 bulbs on. I will be rewiring mine to keep them on all the time.
My problem for gas milage is wind around here. Heavy head wind again today going to work. I wish the flood would go away on the old hi way so I coud use it again. I don't mind running 80K instead of 100K and the milage is better slower.
-
Wind here has been on and off. I tried the charging out and it seemed ok with both beams on but really we need to check the voltage at 5,000 RPM's to be sure per the manual. I doubt it would overload these I would be ready to swap out the main charging fuse if there are issues though.
HIDs may still yet be the way here to go but I want to try below out first.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IBRI9K/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000C93632&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1AKQG5KT007HXQCNAXE2 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IBRI9K/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000C93632&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1AKQG5KT007HXQCNAXE2)
Edit;
Got to do a WOT over on HWY 18 just now. Winds though were gusting strongly especially cross winds so it was a bit hairy to say the least. I can say though I now get to 92 MPH indicated. It may have climed higher but those stong cross gusts scared the you know what out of me and I backed off early.............
-
The bulbs I ordered were H8 but they sent H7. Huge difference in the base. They are being exchanged but waisted time.
Talk about messing things up, now they sent me one h8 bulb. Now I wait for them to send bother one so I can do the install. Go figure!
-
Talk about messing things up, now they sent me one h8 bulb. Now I wait for them to send bother one so I can do the install. Go figure!
Wow, which retailer did you use so we know who not to use................
-
I have never had trouble with them before but this time nothing but.
It is HID country in Florida.
-
let me know how those bulbs are for heat (H8 PIAA Extra Super White 35w=70w bulbs). The hid bulbs run cooler than the halogen bulbs. I will try them in the hi beam if they are not to hot. ???
-
No problem, I'll be running them both high and low. I was going to hid both high and low if I go hids and keep the low beam 100% all the time on. Figured if I was going to rewire go all the way.
My concern with the hids is the primary light point, with the filament the reflector is designed to focus the beam from that point, not sure if the hids will give this to you so I am intersted in your results as well. let us know how it all works out. if it turns out well for you I may follow suit soon too.
-
The bulb is in the same spot on the hid as on the normal bulbs. Again I have used these for years on my truck and also on my People S 125. Focus is the same with the euro type head light units.
-
for those wondering about the LED's this was taken at night with my bloggie, rested on my car windshield behind it so you can see what a drivers impression from behind would be.
DT 300i LED Tail & Turn (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjNJqhpqk7c#ws)
-
Put in the new lights, oh what fun at 92F. It doesn't take long but it is a pain. I did notice all the wiring is there for the original turn signals. I am not sure if they are dumy lights there or load resistors for the LEDs that are in the mirrors. I may order LED's to put in there and load resistors just in case they are needed.
The PIAA lights are without a doubt whiter but I'll have to wait till later to find out if they appear any brighter.
Edit; Dirving durring the day the lights are more noticable when you get behind another car and look at the reflection. This meand they should be more noticable to on coming traffic. I probably will not get to test them tonight, severe thunder storms and wind..............
-
Talk about messing things up, now they sent me one h8 bulb.
Did the other H8 arrive yet ???
What is needed to get the Low beams to stay on ???
And does the HID's need any additional wiring ???
For now, I'm looking to install HID's in the Low beams only. Never have had them on a car either... So, not sure how much I would use the High beams...
And looking at the hidcountry.com site I see they have a G4 mini balast kit. I presume that would work, since we have double head lights and won't need a motorcycle kit or two, right ???
-
Did the other H8 arrive yet ???
yes it did.
What is needed to get the Low beams to stay on ???
And does the HID's need any additional wiring ???
They come with a wiring kit which you can run from the battery and hook to the ignition on to keep them turned on. I am running mine on the internal wiring form the halogen lights and they are working good. Much faster warm up than I am used to. I put the piaa bulbs in the hi beam and I can see more with the low beams then with the hi.
For now, I'm looking to install HID's in the Low beams only. Never have had them on a car either... So, not sure how much I would use the High beams...
And looking at the hidcountry.com site I see they have a G4 mini balast kit. I presume that would work, since we have double head lights and won't need a motorcycle kit or two, right ???
I used 2 motorcycle kits.
-
if you can see more with the HIDs is the beam propper? the low beams should have a cut off preventing the majority of the beam from illuminating above the level of the bulb if aimed propperly. This prevents blinding oncoming traffic and the issues involved in doing so.
If you shine against a wall from say 50 FT with the low beams they should be very bright to almos headlight level then slight illumination above that. High beams should just act as flood lights. If not then the light of the bulb is coming from all over the glass enclosure, regular bulbs the majority comes from the point of the fillament.
Notice in the below video how the cast on the garage door is with the low beams............
DT 300i PIAA H8 Headlights, Kymco Downtown 300i (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJDfitP2pMw#ws)
-
Put in the new lights, oh what fun at 92F. It doesn't take long but it is a pain. I did notice all the wiring is there for the original turn signals. I am not sure if they are dumy lights there or load resistors for the LEDs that are in the mirrors. I may order LED's to put in there and load resistors just in case they are needed.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, I was looking at a 300i in a dealers show room the other day and noticed what looked chromed out bulbs in the original turn-signal location. In your post you mention the wiring is still there inside. Did you ever find out if you can swap out the bulbs and use these?
He he, I don't even have one yet and am well into planning mods... Would love to be able to use the original turns as LED running lights with a magic blinker installed to turn off when the turn-signal for that side is on.
-
If you look in the thread in the People GT 300i" Are these thing supposed to work" You should find the answers that you seek. Hey I sound just like some low budget Kung Fu movie
-
Dead sockets.
I installed a 45 led tower bulb in this socket. Its not that hard to trace the wiring. Kymco cut it and ran it to ground.
I also had some solid state relays that I used to keep them on as DRL's and turn signals. Also had to change out the blinker to a solid state unit , therefore I don't have any ballast resistors draining power. I removed the standard lighted mirrors and installed mirrors on the GIVI screen. I initially tried a 24 led bulb in the front but it was not bright enough (sunshine and city car reflections) and switched to the 45 led bulb. I then moved the 24 led bulb to the rear taillights. A slight oops there, the rear tail lights are a different socket so I formed (mangled and sanded) the socket to fit the slightly larger bulb.
-
OnTalyn>> Would love to be able to use the original turns as LED running lights
OnTalyn>> with a magic blinker installed to turn off when the turn-signal for
OnTalyn>> that side is on.
This week I've had my DT300 torn apart doing a number of mods. My "dummy bulb to running light/signal" mod was done by removing the single contact bayonet socket and replacing it with a dual-contact socket taken from the tail light. Then by using a V-LED "SwitchBack" dual color LED I am able to have a white running light and a flashing amber turn signal in the headlight housing (excuse my messy storage unit):
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fvKkGWseVXY/T7Z-Md_2OeI/AAAAAAAAAK0/QpSmyCuMcMg/s640/2012-04-13%252016.58.42.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZDTLuVUZPbc/T7Z-NF0mkMI/AAAAAAAAAK8/RUicsVjpGKU/s640/2012-04-13%252016.59.23.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jP1Wa0vim6A/T7WbU3c0kzI/AAAAAAAAAKM/sxM0l7GvTHo/s640/IMG_0242.JPG)
And a very bad video:
MVI_0248.AVI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KWSSZPkmSY#)
Originally I had both amber signals flashing at the same time, but then realized that the wig-wag amber were more attention-getting. Here in Florida with our high number of elderly drivers and folks not paying attention in general I thought anything to get more visibility at an intersection would be a benefit.
I will eventually be making write-ups as to how most of the mods were done so please hold off on too many questions for now.. <grin>
Brent
-
Very nice work, looking forward to see the writeup.
-
Looks really good, I too look forward to the "how to" write up. That is even better than what I was thinking of doing.
-
Impressive!
-
Me likes................
-
Thanks for the comments on my lighting changes.. I will be out of town until June 6th so the mod write-ups will be after then. Brent
-
Thanks for the comments on my lighting changes.. I will be out of town until June 6th so the mod write-ups will be after then. Brent
Wtf, there's no Internet "out of town"?!
We can't have that.
-
I had a Givi screen on the bike and it got scratched in the garage. I ordered/installed another one.
The new one is slightly changed. The widest portion (handguards) have been slimmed down about 1/2 "+ on each side. I am not sure but I think the upward flip of the windscreen has been reduced a bit, from feeble memory it tilts backward a bit more.
-
I will eventually be making write-ups as to how most of the mods were done so please hold off on too many questions for now.. <grin>
Brent
[/quote]
Please, please, please.....really..LOL We are taking possession of our new 300i this Friday and would LOVE to have the "instruction" on how to do this :)
-
I will eventually be making write-ups as to how most of the mods were done so please hold off on too many questions for now.. <grin>
Brent
Any write ups for this?
I just got my 300 and this is the best mod I've seen.
I live in fl, st Pete and can appreciate having more than stock lights.
Thanks
Carl
Please, please, please.....really..LOL We are taking possession of our new 300i this Friday and would LOVE to have the "instruction" on how to do this :)