KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: jstluise on August 11, 2011, 05:17:36 AM
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I brought this up in a related thread, but it got buried. I figured it was worth having its own.
I was looking to upgrade my headlight to a higher wattage (from 35/35 to 55/60). I saw several posts stating the headlight is the H4 style. To my surprise, my headlight is not H4, but rather S2.
Specifically, my headlight is "12728 S2 Philips Duplo 12v 35/35W" and it looks like this:
(http://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/scara50headlight.jpg)
Compare this to an H4 bulb:
(http://www.h4bulb.com/images/H4bulb.jpg)
Now, I can't find much for the S2 style bulb. There are plenty of options for the H4 since it is a standard bulb for vehicles.
First, what gives? Why do I have a S2 bulb when everyone else has a H4? It's a 2009. I'm in the USA if that matters.
Second, does anyone know where to get a 55/60 S2 bulb? I came up with nothing.
My options: a) keep riding with this crappy stock bulb where I can't even see 30 feet in front of me, b) ride with my high beam on to improve my vision and piss off other drivers, c) keep trying to track down a S2 bulb, d) Spend ~$75 to get a replacement body panel with the H4 socket, or e) modify my current setup with a donor H4 socket off a car or something.
All I know is that it feels like I am riding blind in the dark. Something has to change.
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what about HID H7R conversion?
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what about HID H7R conversion?
How does this work? Really, I haven't seen much of anything for the S2 bulb...seems like it is really outdated or something?
Also, "HID Conversion" kits are usually pretty expensive from what I've seen.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H4-H-L-MOTORCYCLE-HID-XENON-CONVERSION-KIT-6000K-C154-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aad1d65ceQQitemZ320731964878QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H4-H-L-MOTORCYCLE-HID-XENON-CONVERSION-KIT-6000K-C154-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aad1d65ceQQitemZ320731964878QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
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The Bad News:
It looks like that kit will convert H4 Halogen to H4 Xenon - but his Agility has the S2 plug and mounting hardware. And a Xenon (HID) bulb in a Halogen reflector blinds oncoming traffic and will get you bounced off the road by an angry driver.
The Good news:
You can get a Philips 12v 45W/40W BA20D (BA20D is the standard for an S2 bulb) for $22 from DonsBulbs.com:
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/12748%7C12v%7C45w%7C40w%7Cba20d%7Cb35mm%7Cduplo~philips.html (http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/12748%7C12v%7C45w%7C40w%7Cba20d%7Cb35mm%7Cduplo~philips.html)
If you switch to an H4 headlight then you should probably use an LED bulb. An LED won't be as bright as a halogen 55/60w, but it will be brighter than your current 35w S2. The problem is that Kymco put that S2 in your Agility because the Alternator doesn't put out enough to run a 55/60W bulb. You could switch to the H4 Halogen, and if it doesn't keep the battery charged then switch other bulbs on the bike to LED (instrument cluster, tail/stop, turn signals. That would add another $40 or so - but it would get you a bright halogen headlight.
For about $100 you could add some PIAA LED lights. They are only going to put out about as much light as your current 35w S2 - but they draw so little current you could just add them and double your output. I mounted a couple on a Buell Blast. They helped it's 60/55w headlight light the way, and they looked cool.
They sell S2 LED bulbs in 360 degree for $25 (search for ba20d, not S2) - but I can't find anything with more lumens than your 35w halogen.
My advice - try the $22 45w bulb.
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Sweeet! Thanks for the info. Just knowing BA20D = S2 helped me out a lot. I will search around and find a higher wattage BA20D bulb first. This seems like my best and most cost effective solution.
Also, the stator is rated for 144W @ 5000 RPM, and riders with the 55/60W haven't experienced any problems (that I have read). Maybe the only problem would be hitting the brakes at a low rpm/idle...but then again you can upgrade your brake light to LED.
Thanks again!
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Also, the stator is rated for 144W @ 5000 RPM, and riders with the 55/60W haven't experienced any problems (that I have read). Maybe the only problem would be hitting the brakes at a low rpm/idle...but then again you can upgrade your brake light to LED.
Thanks again!
I just sold my Zuma 125 which had 2 60/65w headlights which I wired to both be on at the same time (from the factory you get one for high, and one for low). Having a single 60/55w on my Xciting will take some getting used to... When I would idle my Zuma at a stoplight the headlights would diim - but I never sat long enough to worry about it. Some bikes will handle running the charging system past it's capacity for a while, and some won't. Some people that converted the mainland China scooters from 35w S2's to H4's blew their h4 bulbs because they couldn't keep enough juice to them. Halogen bulbs need to operate at a minimum temperature or they fail often. A lot of them melted the headlight enclosures because they didn't upgrade them too. Having a version of your bike that came with the H4 helps a lot. But something other than the headlight bulb is probably different. Either they have stronger alternators (more windings) or they are using fewer watts elsewhere. It's possible Kymco just decided they were close enough on the wattage to run the stronger bulbs - but I wouldn't count on it.
Enjoy your scoot - it looks like a fun one.
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Yeah I agree something must have changed if they went from an H4 to S2 bulb. I don't know what other reason for the change would be. Anyways, something has to be upgraded. Riding in the dark sucks right now. When I am around street lights it is fine but once I hit unlit roads I have to "feel" my way around the road instead of "see" it...not very fun.
I am going to get a 45w bulb ordered. A lot of them on eBay. I might as well go ahead and get a LED for my brake light, too.
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Good posts regarding the bulb issue with the Agility. I also found that the issue is not just with the bulb they chose to use, but with the whole reflector design. Just never really seemed to do much in terms of throwing light out. I ended up adding a small 35 watt driving light. It worked very nicely. I wired it to the battery with a relay that had a separate switch. I also hooked the "over-seas" front turn signals back up as I noticed the bulbs where there and just the wires were unhooked. I wired them to be on with the low beam and had no charging issues etc. Also, when I used the passing button and flashed the high beam, it made more noticeable as more lights were flashing etc. Great little scoot. Sold it in June and just got the Like 200i. Kymco does make some nice scooters.
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Good posts regarding the bulb issue with the Agility. I also found that the issue is not just with the bulb they chose to use, but with the whole reflector design. Just never really seemed to do much in terms of throwing light out. I ended up adding a small 35 watt driving light. It worked very nicely. I wired it to the battery with a relay that had a separate switch. I also hooked the "over-seas" front turn signals back up as I noticed the bulbs where there and just the wires were unhooked. I wired them to be on with the low beam and had no charging issues etc. Also, when I used the passing button and flashed the high beam, it made more noticeable as more lights were flashing etc. Great little scoot. Sold it in June and just got the Like 200i. Kymco does make some nice scooters.
Yeah, I agree about the reflector design. Seems like it could be better. I like the looks of that driving light! I bet it did a good job of providing some extra light. How was the load on the stator when you had both headlights on (35W headlight + 35W running light)? Any noticeable dimming at an idle?
I am not aware of the "over-seas" front turn signal back up...care to explain? :)
I haven't got a around to upgrading my headlight. Found a website that has the 45/45 S2 as well as a 60/60 S2 bulb for pretty cheap...thought I would order a couple of each just to try them out. The 60 might be too much, though. A 45/45 bulb with the addition of a running light would be nice for running in the dark...and then just leave off the running light for day time riding.
I am also planning to change out the brake light bulb for an LED and add a brake light flashing module (flashes a few times before it goes soild). I might buy LED bulbs for the turn signals or buy aftermarket LED turn signals (complete w/ housing)...for a nice custom look 8) Of course, that means I'll have to either buy an electronic flashing relay or make my own (a simple circuit for a couple bucks + my time, compared to a $15-20 unit that is already made).
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The "overseas turn signals" are the little lights below the headlight. They are too close together to meet US and Canadian requirements so Kymco adds turn signals to the handlebars and powers them instead.
I'm glad to hear you mention changing the relay for the LED's instead of adding "load equalizers" - I don't understand why so many people use them.
If you switch your turn signal bulbs to LED's then you might also want to wire in some "majic blinker" modules. They change the turn signals to always on, and blinking off.
I haven't ever seen a 60/60 S2, but I would be concerned about using brighter (ergo hotter) than a 45 in the stock housing. The advantage to the add on 35w driving light is being able to turn it on and off as needed. Kymco seems to "optimize" the alternator by making it as small as possible rather than carrying additional weight to have extra power available. I added a black Kurakyn voltmeter to my dash to watch it because I tend to add load with extra light, stebel horn, heated grips...
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The "overseas turn signals" are the little lights below the headlight. They are too close together to meet US and Canadian requirements so Kymco adds turn signals to the handlebars and powers them instead.
That's what I thought. They are inside the housing, right? I saw the little lights when I had the headlight apart and wondered what they were. Didn't really think to check if they were hooked up or not.
I'm glad to hear you mention changing the relay for the LED's instead of adding "load equalizers" - I don't understand why so many people use them.
If you switch your turn signal bulbs to LED's then you might also want to wire in some "majic blinker" modules. They change the turn signals to always on, and blinking off.
Exactly! I guess it depends on your purpose of switching to LEDs. A large part of my reason is to cut down on power consumption, but most people do it for looks (well, me too). Someone with a vehicle that plenty of electrical power will not care if they use load equalizers...but if your main goal is to cut down on power consumption then using load equalizers completely defeats the purpose; the load equalizer dissipates the power that would have otherwise been dissipated by the original bulb.
For anyone that is familiar with electrical circuits, the electronic flasher relay that you can buy can be made with a simple 555 astable circuit paired with a relay. You can tune the circuit to have whatever duty cycle you want (% time on to % time off) and whatever frequency you like. Unlike the original flasher on the scooter, the electronic flasher relay is not load dependent. Just a matter of integrating it correctly into the scooter's wiring; I have taken a look at the scooter to see how the blinker circuit is set up yet, otherwise I'd post a schematic of the 555 circuit that can be built. It would definitely be easier to pay the ~$15, but I like to tinker ;D
That "majic blinker" module sounds interesting. So you are basically turning your blinkers into running lights? This could be achieved in the 555 circuit as well.
I haven't ever seen a 60/60 S2, but I would be concerned about using brighter (ergo hotter) than a 45 in the stock housing. The advantage to the add on 35w driving light is being able to turn it on and off as needed. Kymco seems to "optimize" the alternator by making it as small as possible rather than carrying additional weight to have extra power available. I added a black Kurakyn voltmeter to my dash to watch it because I tend to add load with extra light, stebel horn, heated grips...
Eiko is the only bulbs I saw that are BA20D (S2). They have the 60/60: http://eiko.com/Search.aspx?SearchParams=BA20D&tp=0&xref=False&page=0 (http://eiko.com/Search.aspx?SearchParams=BA20D&tp=0&xref=False&page=0)
I would be concerned as well about using the 60/60 in the stock housing. I know people were using the 55/60 H4 bulbs without problems, though. I'd expect the regular incandescent bulbs to be cooler than the fancy H4 bulbs (Xenon) that you can buy. I dunno...definitely something to consider.
Still leaning toward running a 45/45 and adding a driving light (any links?) for that very reason you mentioned: ability to turn it on (night) and off (day) as needed. Good idea about the voltmeter...
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PIAA driving lights are my favourites. I normally watch eBay for them. I bought a pair of the round 35w LED's for $85 and loved them. I wish I still had them to add to my Xciting... I've also had the small round 35W Halogen, the flat ones in different sizes, and some of the 100w 6" offroad only units (nothing says dim your lights like 6 100w lights). If you're going with one 35W then I would get the flat one and mount it centered under the cowling.
I've bought several other brands - but I think that on a scooter it's more important to get one that won't vibrate apart...
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hello , i put a 50/50 watt ba20d zenon bulb in my agility 125 and it melted the socket be very carefull i also put led turn singnals on my bike and added 2 load resistors from radio shack part # 271-0132 for about two bucks and they work great, i am going to try to modifiy housing to accept h4 bulb will let you know how that works out also i tryed wiring a relay off the headlight switch [ before the socket melted] and it was just to much for the stator, bryan
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Those load resistors are making those LED turn signals use as much electricity as a regular bulb to get the flash rate correct. You could lighten the load on your stator if you remove the resistors and swap your blinker module for one made for LED's.
http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/LOCKHART-PHILLIPS-LED-TURN-SIGNAL-FLASHER-RELAY-UNIVERSAL/?id=104032 (http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/LOCKHART-PHILLIPS-LED-TURN-SIGNAL-FLASHER-RELAY-UNIVERSAL/?id=104032)
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If you can fit an H4 bulb then I would run a HID xenon system on it. Runs 35 watt and is very bright. I run a pair of them on my people S125. They move in and out for the hi and low beam. I have run them for 3 years with no problems. expensive but worth every cent if you run in the country at night.
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hello , i put a 50/50 watt ba20d zenon bulb in my agility 125 and it melted the socket be very carefull i also put led turn singnals on my bike and added 2 load resistors from radio shack part # 271-0132 for about two bucks and they work great, i am going to try to modifiy housing to accept h4 bulb will let you know how that works out also i tryed wiring a relay off the headlight switch [ before the socket melted] and it was just to much for the stator, bryan
Where did you find a xenon BA20D bulb? Just curious, because I could only find halogen BA20D. Also, the xenon bulbs get hotter than the regular halogen bulbs, which may explain the melting. I thought I read about people using 55/55W xenon H4 bulbs (for those who have the correct model) without any problems. I'd still be careful though.
Let me know how the conversion to H4 goes...I was actually thinking of doing the same since there are a lot of options for H4. For example, you can get a PIAA 35W bulb that pulls 35W but looks like 60W.
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I have a pair in h8 format. waist of money!
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I have a pair in h8 format. waist of money!
Pair of what? Driving lights?
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Pair of what? Driving lights?
For example, you can get a PIAA 35W bulb that pulls 35W but looks like 60W.
I have a pair in h8 format. waist of money!
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For example, you can get a PIAA 35W bulb that pulls 35W but looks like 60W.
I have a pair in h8 format. waist of money!
I really like the PIAA Cross Country HID lights - but I can't condone putting HID bulbs behind lenses not made for them. The conversion kits are as cheap as $45 instead of the $450 for the Cross Country's, and they light the road well - but they glare oncoming drivers and will get you bumped off the road by pissed off car drivers.
These are the Cross Country's.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41lDEtVhxaL._SS400_.jpg)
If you want as much light as possible in the stock housing then you could change the socket from the S2 to an H4 and replace the mount. But then I'd also wire it through a relay and fuse directly to the battery. You might also want to vent it out the back a little, and switching other lights to LED to make up for the increased load would be a good idea.
The advantages to external PIAA lights would be that you can aim them separately from the bike light, including having them follow the front wheel. You can also turn them off when you don't need them and easily remove them to put on another bike if you trade up.
These PIAA 2100's are 55w halogen and look really good center mounted underthe cowling (on the triple clamp). You could mount one of these and an ON/ON switch to switch between it and your standard light.
(http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-images/2100.gif)
These are the PIAA 004X 35W lamps. You can tell the 35W from the 55w because the 35W only have one mounting hole in the base.
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/8vvvZZdViIDPHjAcnfrUB3YdnQBYe_IzLl9vvvHgDumZnDCpylUr682Hq9FbAQ99OER6YM-fl9XBeik1DZuxpqRW60kjXx0ZLU3NflUD01esJuR63gLFX-bGJmbK75cCK0iwRczkvtCLQ8ADvk2JA6Ksj3ptryE7fC5WTOZubd7_rqtu)
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Good info on the lights. I think I am going to keep an eye out for the 004X lamps and mount it somewhat like kriden showed. I do like the sounds of the 2100's mounted under the cowling...I didn't think there was enough room (when suspension is fully compressed), but I didn't check. The only con I see with the 2100 is that it can only be mounted horizontally and that it only gives you a 15 degree beam. The 004X can be mounted with any orientation and they provide a 25 degree beam. Noticeable? I dunno.
In regards to the 004X, I found that the 004XT are easier to find and less expensive. Only bad thing is that they come with 55W bulbs, so it would require a swap to 35W. But, I'd have spare 55W if I move the lights to another vehicle.
I am considering the modification of S2 to H4, but it is difficult to find a H4 socket. I think the best option would be to hit a wrecking yard and get a headlight housing or something. I'd also check into buying a body panel off an older Agility that already has H4...might be more expensive but less of a hassle trying to modify the existing one. With the H4, you can stick in a 35W PIAA to get a lot of light...AND the beam would be the same temperature as the PIAA running light :P
Everything else is going to LED (turn signals and brake light) to minimize power consumption.
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Jim Davis owns Eastern Beaver and will wire you up an H4 relay kit and all you'll have to do is tell him the lengths. He has a standard H4 kit for $45, but to use the ba20d stock plug for the relay he might charge you a few extra bucks. I can personally recommend his work and his prices are only a little bit higher than what it would cost you to do it yourself. You could use his standard kit and splice it into the stock wires with posilocks - then save the ba20d socket in case you want to put it back to stock to sell the bike.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html)
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Jim Davis owns Eastern Beaver and will wire you up an H4 relay kit and all you'll have to do is tell him the lengths. He has a standard H4 kit for $45, but to use the ba20d stock plug for the relay he might charge you a few extra bucks. I can personally recommend his work and his prices are only a little bit higher than what it would cost you to do it yourself. You could use his standard kit and splice it into the stock wires with posilocks - then save the ba20d socket in case you want to put it back to stock to sell the bike.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html)
I have no problem wiring up a relay with the plug for the H4 (like shown on his website). My concern was about actually mounting the bulb into the housing....I'm not sure how that would be done without modifying the existing plastic mount that holds the ba20d. Am I missing something here? Will a H4 bulb fit into the current setup with the only issue being the electrical plug?
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Looks like you can replace the whole headlight assembly for about $55 - but you need to know the year which has/had the H4 bulb/reflector/plug. It will come with the lens/reflector/wiring. I would still wire a relay and power it directly from the battery. Either that or you'll have to rig a way to mount the bulb in your existing headlight assembly.
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I put in a halogen bulb from SCOOTERCRAFT and wired the 194 bulb sockets to my high beams and put 75 lumen led bubs in , it worked great Igot hem from SUPERBRIGHT LEDS, I also did away with the load resistors and got a led flasher from them . SCOOTERWEST sells the zenon bulb that I used for almost 2 years but they are out of stock on it now.I also got the new socket by ordering a wiring harness for a zx50 from kymco for 15 bucks, the socket has male spade terminals on it so its very easy to hookup , bryan
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I put in a halogen bulb from SCOOTERCRAFT and wired the 194 bulb sockets to my high beams and put 75 lumen led bubs in , it worked great Igot hem from SUPERBRIGHT LEDS, I also did away with the load resistors and got a led flasher from them . SCOOTERWEST sells the zenon bulb that I used for almost 2 years but they are out of stock on it now.I also got the new socket by ordering a wiring harness for a zx50 from kymco for 15 bucks, the socket has male spade terminals on it so its very easy to hookup , bryan
So you went back to the BA20D? Didn't want to try the H4 mod?
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Not after I found good bulbs,the leds are awsome ,they made the most improvement , try that combo before modifying housing it is very bright , let there be light bryan
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I just bought a HID kit from ddmtuning.com for around $45 and used an H11 bulb kit. I kept the clear plastic protective cover it was shipped with and just cut a few inch's off it. This 1" of cover that is threaded together slid into the S2 housing perfect. I used tie straps to secure the H11 housing from coming out of the base. I ran the wires from the battery (fused) to a switch I installed just below the ignition switch. I taped up the old wiring that went to the old S2 bulb housing since I dont use the high-low beam handle bar switch any more. The original wiring didn't handle the power since the HID bulb would flicker, thats why I ran the wires from the battery. I just used electrical connectors to wire into the H11 plug from the kit. I also had to adjust the light pattern by screwing in (clockwise) the headlight adjustment screw on the back isde of the head light and also used 2 nylon 1/2" long spacers at the bottom head light mounting screws (six total)to kick the head light out or up to get the pattern up and down the road for distance. This worked great, it lit both sides of the raod up and gave me the near or low beam and hight beam long distance light pattern with out blinding any one. I can see at least 50-75 yards away and both side of the road to watch for dear, and all the signs are lit up at 1-2 blocks away. The only draw back is I have to charge the battery after using the headlight since it draws too much power.
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Can someone explain how to actually remove the S2 bulb itself? I've tried to pull it out of the casing but it is in there quite snugly and I'm afraid to pull to hard and break it. Am I missing some trick here?
Thanks.
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I believe you push in and rotate clockwise to remove the bulb from the housing. Be care full not to force it since I broke my housing trying to get it back in that’s one reason I changed to a HID housing and bulb. Good luck.
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How does this work? Really, I haven't seen much of anything for the S2 bulb...seems like it is really outdated or something?
Also, HID headlights (http://www.motorfiend.com/hid-kits/) are usually pretty expensive from what I've seen.
Hid kits are very cheap now,you can find them for 60$ everywhere on internet now.
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I ordered one of these blue tip S2 bulbs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-Lamp-35W-BA20d-ATV-Quad-Scooter-Headlight-/150514556631?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item230b5dded7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-Lamp-35W-BA20d-ATV-Quad-Scooter-Headlight-/150514556631?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item230b5dded7) for my sons Agility 50. I will let you know how it works.
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My headlight also just blew.
I found these two:
A Halogen bulb on Amazon, does anyone here think it would work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00710481Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A33TCMZEAWOM9U (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00710481Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A33TCMZEAWOM9U)
This one looks pretty much like the original
http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp6235b.html (http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp6235b.html)
OregonDad, did the one from Ebay work out for you?
Also, I am wondering if anyone here could find replacements in local stores. I Really don't feel like waiting for a week or so...
-emil
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(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zpsfb5b5cd3.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zpsf1290ebe.jpg)
I got tired of the light issues quickly. So I put an AdvMonster model 30 led on.
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Hi. How is it now with the new light?, it's supposed to be a spot light. I wonder if it blinds the upcoming drivers.
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I bought the spot because it was a spot. I have it pointed down(3 car lengths range) to avoid blinding people. I also run it off the high beam. That pretty much keeps it around 50% power. I did not know that headlight power lead was dimmer until I hit the flasher button and the LED doubled in brightness. I was not aiming for more light down the road, but brighter light in the 3 car lengths range.
The old rule of driving is not to go faster than you headlight range. Since I putt around in the 40 mph range I did noo see the need to have headlights that lit up 100 yards. I did a video showing the Model 60 Floods on my KLR. There are crazy bright.
Model 60 LED (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8aVNRd2qHk#ws)
I will shoot a video tonight with the model 30 on my scooter. The weaker the headlight the better the LEDs seem. I now have the same Model 60's on my VStrom and they don't seem anywhere as powerful as they did on the KLR. The help, its not as dramatic. VStrom with Model 60 LEDs from Monster Adv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npQXZ3t_cr8#ws)
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http://youtu.be/Mlhf7-NJVYI (http://youtu.be/Mlhf7-NJVYI)
Here is a quick video. I strongly recommend wiring it off the battery directly. It puts out much more light.
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Hey guys, I don't know much about the headlight bulbs. But every time I get the old one replaced, the new bulb doesn't last that long. Sometimes 2-3 months then I have to replace it again. That's at least 4-6 bulbs a year.
Is this right?
Thanks in advance
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I have just ordered a CREE SMD LED 10 watt headlight bulb form ledsnow through eBay. It is rated at about 700/1000 lumens of white 6000K light with very long service life. The stock 35/35 watt bulb rated life is 100 hours and subject to filiment vibration failure which the LED is not. We will see if it lights the road better, sure can't be worse than the stock bulb and it will give me 25 extra watts for more LED lights if necessary.
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I have just ordered a CREE SMD LED 10 watt headlight bulb form ledsnow through eBay. It is rated at about 700/1000 lumens of white 6000K light with very long service life. The stock 35/35 watt bulb rated life is 100 hours and subject to filiment vibration failure which the LED is not. We will see if it lights the road better, sure can't be worse than the stock bulb and it will give me 25 extra watts for more LED lights if necessary.
The problem I've encountered every time I tried to change the type of bulb for a given lamp is that every reflector has a focal point that has to match the position where the bulb concentrates the most amount of light. When this point is shifted I've found that the projector most times does not do a good job in directing the beam where it's supposed to be on the road. Good luck and please let us know about your results.
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The problem I've encountered every time I tried to change the type of bulb for a given lamp is that every reflector has a focal point that has to match the position where the bulb concentrates the most amount of light. When this point is shifted I've found that the projector most times does not do a good job in directing the beam where it's supposed to be on the road. Good luck and please let us know about your results.
Agreed. This is why I hung up the whole idea and put the LED's spots on the bike. I put them where the blinkers were and put yellow bulbs in the flashers and wired them as blinkers.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/LeslieandBen_zpsa60bfa8f.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/riserxx/media/LeslieandBen_zpsa60bfa8f.jpg.html)
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Had the focal point problem too with this bulb from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00710481Y/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It was really bright but it was pointing ways too high. Strangely it was better when I turned on the high beam. Worse of all it created a heat problem. When the bulb finally broke, the solder at the socket was partially melted. I am surprised that it didn't create any damage on the scooter.
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Thank you for your comments. Yes the reflector is the main factor aiming filiment bulbs and excess heat is a problem with halogen and higher wattage bulbs. The reason I chose this particular bulb to test was the fact that the 10 watt SMD LED is mounted flat and facing out forward through it's own lens, sort of like a projector it is not dependent on the stock reflector.
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Pictures
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Stock bulb
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Stock bulb dark garage bike on center stand, high beam
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CREE SMD 10 watt LED
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CREE SMD 10 watt LED non DOT approved bulb. dark garage. bike on center stand high beam
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Ah I see, you put the new bulb in already. Seems nice bright from the photos but also, the light seems to be a bit all over, without a focus area. Have you tried it on the road already - can you see better with it, does it not blind other people?
Thanks for the updates,
-e
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Just put the bulb in, no road tests yet. Definitely flood lighting. Did not test low beam because I did not want to start the scooter in the closed garage. Low beam will have the same pattern however just lower power. Will see if it bothers other drivers at night. Daytime should be no problem either way might be more noticeable in daylight than stock.
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Total failure. The bulb was too dim on low so I used high which was looking pretty good but the blub blew at the end of the driveway. No high, no low, no LED light at all. Replaced stock bulb. The CREE SMD 10 watt LED blub has that burned electronics smell.
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After fighting the same battle on my big boy bike, I found low wattage led spots do the job best. Point them low and you won't blind many people.
Since my last test I added a second light. They draw so little. And I like the idea if putting them where the blinkers were.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zpsdf25e219.jpg)
Low beam
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zpsd22bb8c9.jpg)
High beam
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zpsaa758fa7.jpg)
Street Stock vs Led
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zps43e6906d.png)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zps6ff73676.png)
The spots are a touch high here. About the level of the hi beams. But you can focus them lower to avoid blinding people. I did have them running off the hi beams power. But I found I got much more light off the battery with a switch.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zps61e8b6d8.jpg)(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/riserxx/null_zps2c5af53a.png)
I will shoot another video tonight. This set up is not the cheapest, but is great at night. You can do this with lights from eBay for under $100. Probably closer to $60.
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Nice set up DenniSMC. When I opened my front panel I had two small white bulbs that where not powered but they were wired together. I thought about adding those to the headlight circuit where I see you have switched to amber bulbs and use them as your front turn signals.
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I originally had them wired to the hi beams. But switched them to blinkers as I added the second led spot.
I commute at night. And find this lighting clean and effective without killing the battery. I have only been flashed once. So I angled down a little and have had no issues since. They are very bright. The pictures don't do them justice.
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I really like your ability to aim the lights appropriately. The eBay vendor was going to send me a replacement LED bulb but I requested a refund which has been issued. The 10 watt LED was to dim on low beam (may have been defect here) and I suspect too much of a flood light on high. I think the best solution for more light is to add LED spots rather than tax the electrical system with higher wattage and/or hotter headlight bulbs.
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I agree.
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Yeah I have the same but its a 12v 35/35w H11 but it looks exactly like the S2? I have 2006 Kymco Agility.
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I brought this up in a related thread, but it got buried. I figured it was worth having its own.
I was looking to upgrade my headlight to a higher wattage (from 35/35 to 55/60). I saw several posts stating the headlight is the H4 style. To my surprise, my headlight is not H4, but rather S2.
Specifically, my headlight is "12728 S2 Philips Duplo 12v 35/35W" and it looks like this:
(http://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/scara50headlight.jpg)
Compare this to an H4 bulb:
(http://www.h4bulb.com/images/H4bulb.jpg)
Now, I can't find much for the S2 style bulb. There are plenty of options for the H4 since it is a standard bulb for vehicles.
First, what gives? Why do I have a S2 bulb when everyone else has a H4? It's a 2009. I'm in the USA if that matters.
Second, does anyone know where to get a 55/60 S2 bulb? I came up with nothing.
My options: a) keep riding with this crappy stock bulb where I can't even see 30 feet in front of me, b) ride with my high beam on to improve my vision and piss off other drivers, c) keep trying to track down a S2 bulb, d) Spend ~$75 to get a replacement body panel with the H4 socket, or e) modify my current setup with a donor H4 socket off a car or something.
All I know is that it feels like I am riding blind in the dark. Something has to change.
Hmm I just realized you mentioned the S2 BA20D 35/35w 12v bulb and got confused with 55/60. But you have a 2009 model. Could I use the same bulb S2 35/35w 12v on a Agility 2006?