KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: marioG on March 25, 2012, 09:11:18 AM
-
Hi guys!
Got some problem with idle and starting to move.
When clutch trying to kick in ive got some bumpy kicking...
3times i was disassemble it and first few miles was OK, then problem start to kick in.....
got no solution, picking at idle but why?
-
Probably 20th time I've wrote this on this forum.
Brakes in, open throttle, let go of the brakes slightly just to let the scooter slowly move forward.
Repeat 2-3 times.
Done.
-
know that solution. But this is opposite. It starts normal for few miles then problem kicks in. Even at ideling its picking to start.
-
know that solution. But this is opposite. It starts normal for few miles then problem kicks in. Even at ideling its picking to start.
Happened once, I did what I wrote, it went away.
It's usually the other thing but even that only came back twice in 20.000km.
-
mate,
i was burning the clutch as mad man....but cant go away, its just got worst....
seems to me like clutch is uneven, so its picnking at idle...
-
mate,
i was burning the clutch as mad man....but cant go away, its just got worst....
seems to me like clutch is uneven, so its picnking at idle...
Maybe it's time for a new one.
-
Hi guys!
Got some problem with idle and starting to move.
When clutch trying to kick in ive got some bumpy kicking...
3times i was disassemble it and first few miles was OK, then problem start to kick in.....
got no solution, picking at idle but why?
I was thinking to send you a PM just few days ago because you did not write anything on the forum for a long time.
How many kms do you have?
You should inspect all parts of the CVT by measuring various parts to see if they are up to specs.
-
Sorry guys,
job and i bought z750 last septembar...
Agility was taking dust and cold alone, coz im a prick who drives bike all winter. In this case kawa was my choice! already have 10k in 6months....
Tried 2day 2go to Crikvenica....but no luck...some people are just lazy...
Needless to say Kymco gotta go....im selling it...
Bought new clutch kit....will test it 2morow....
-
Sorry guys,
job and i bought z750 last septembar...
Agility was taking dust and cold alone, coz im a prick who drives bike all winter. In this case kawa was my choice! already have 10k in 6months....
Tried 2day 2go to Crikvenica....but no luck...some people are just lazy...
Needless to say Kymco gotta go....im selling it...
Bought new clutch kit....will test it 2morow....
You'll be sorry.. ;D
I won't be without a scoot again!
Can do a lot of stuff on your Z.
p.s. I'm going to Crikvenica tommorow morning. ;D
-
You'll be sorry.. ;D
I won't be without a scoot again!
Can do a lot of stuff on your Z.
p.s. I'm going to Crikvenica tommorow morning. ;D
Yeap I know u r somewhere near Rijeka...
Maybe Ill see u some weekend there...can u PM me ur phone...
-
Yeap I know u r somewhere near Rijeka...
Maybe Ill see u some weekend there...can u PM me ur phone...
I'm from Osijek actually .. ;D I'll be staying on Krk for the next 4 days, but I'm going
home before weekend.
-
Check the Var/rollers/drive boss while you have it open. If any of those have ANY play you will feel it in the drive.
-
Probably 20th time I've wrote this on this forum.
Brakes in, open throttle, let go of the brakes slightly just to let the scooter slowly move forward.
Repeat 2-3 times.
Done.
Sorry to drag this up, but how long do you hold it back and let it move slowly forward? I have done this now twice, maybe not doing it long enough though, and yet when I take off it starts to take off and then it like jumps and almost pops the front tire off of the ground. If I am not mistaken it is the same thing I read somewhere else that this so called fix is supposed to fix.
Do I need to say do it 2 or 3 times going forward very slowly for say 15 to 20 feet at a time? Or is a say 5 feet at a time sufficient? Or should I look at something else being the cause?
-
YEAP,
problem solved, it was clutch springs (didnt tell that i bought baotian clutch)....red paint isnt red malossi color...
put on yellow malossi....and i think thats it....clutch is engaged at higher rpms....no picking at low...
tnx guys....
-
Sorry to drag this up, but how long do you hold it back and let it move slowly forward? I have done this now twice, maybe not doing it long enough though, and yet when I take off it starts to take off and then it like jumps and almost pops the front tire off of the ground. If I am not mistaken it is the same thing I read somewhere else that this so called fix is supposed to fix.
Do I need to say do it 2 or 3 times going forward very slowly for say 15 to 20 feet at a time? Or is a say 5 feet at a time sufficient? Or should I look at something else being the cause?
I can't say that I was really paying attention on how long or how far I was going doing it, but it took under a minute, and I've had
to do it twice in 12k+ miles to get rid of the surging start, and it didn't come back after that.
The key is to get the revs as high up as possible, and keep the clutch slipping as much as possible and that means going
very slow, walking pace slow. 2 or 3 short runs and it was smooth as butter after that!
-
I have done this brake-maxrev thing, but I get bored it... I made a universal holder (you know that Y-shape tool) and I disassembled the engine when I changed the rollers. I took apart the clutch, I found real dust and mud inside (at 3000km!!). It was scary to see... I cleaned it, since than it works perfectly...
-
You will se more dust/debris when new. It's all "breakin" matter.
-
I can't say that I was really paying attention on how long or how far I was going doing it, but it took under a minute, and I've had
to do it twice in 12k+ miles to get rid of the surging start, and it didn't come back after that.
The key is to get the revs as high up as possible, and keep the clutch slipping as much as possible and that means going
very slow, walking pace slow. 2 or 3 short runs and it was smooth as butter after that!
Okay, I have tried this now maybe 4 or 5 times and have done so for a good 15 seconds at a time. Had done this walking the bike for a good 15 feet and yet the results last maybe for the next stop or two I get smooth take offs. After that, lunging and lurching when the rpm's get to that magic spot and there is no way around it.
Now maybe after reading this thread over again and maybe three more times there over, keep it slipping as much as possible keeps ringing in my head. Do I need to do it again?! Maybe after work today I will do it again and this time keep it going longer. I am planning on heading right to the repair shop, the dealership, to get the bike looked at if it continues... Now what I also read is that there could be dirt in there somewhere and that might be causing this? Is that true? Or should I just skip it if it does it again after yet another burn tonight just take it in?
This is so frustrating....
-
It shouldn't happen that fast.
I once overfilled the transmission oil and had the same problem repeat
daily until the excess oil drained out.
-
Okay well I had a co-worker time my burn last night, at least 20 seconds, and made sure that I went at least 25feet in the attempt to burn the clutch.
Lets just say I made it about two miles and the front tire lifts off of the ground again when I take off from a stop. I must have gotten it a good 10 inches off of the ground.
So I rode directly to the dealership. Mentioned what is happening to the service desk technician and all he could do was ask questions as to when it started and if I thought it was engine or transmission, etc. Since I have 6300 km on the scoot and the last time the oil was changed it was at 1500 miles, not sure the km but someone can do the math. So I thought to schedule a servicing to include the oil, etc and was quoted $65 to $70 for the servicing which in turn will also have them look at the cvt. The tough part, they can't get me in until JUNE 9th!!!!!! So I sit and wait now.
Any ideas? I am thinking of taking the cover off and looking to see if the darn thing is just dirty and possibly just clean it out. If that works then great. Otherwise I have the appointment yet.
Cortez, you mention the over filling of the transmission oil. Is there such on the Agility 125? If so I wonder when the dealership did my last servicing if they over filled and it took a while to rear its ugly head, or front wheel when taking off? hmmm I might have to try and find a service manual for the agility125 so I can check. Think it might be the cause for me or at least a possibility?
I know at slower take offs the front end shudders until it grabs and then things go smooth. If I take off a little harder on the throttle it pops wheelies!
I don't know what is going on with it but the more I can log it here the chances of someone else getting theirs corrected sooner increases.
-
Anyone else with any input or insight into this? I have yet to get the time to dig into the cvt so it looks like the stealership will do the work and diagnose it for me unless I can find help here with where to look...
-
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.msg9960#msg9960 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.msg9960#msg9960)
somewhere in this thread is a link to your manual.
-
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.msg9960#msg9960 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.msg9960#msg9960)
somewhere in this thread is a link to your manual.
Thanks for the link however, I did not see an active link for the agility 125. I did grab the agility 50 but would like the 125 manual...
-
So I thought to schedule a servicing to include the oil, etc and was quoted $65 to $70 for the servicing which in turn will also have them look at the cvt. The tough part, they can't get me in until JUNE 9th!!!!!! So I sit and wait now.
Do not bring you scooter in for an oil change. It will take 5 minutes, 10 minutes if you're intoxicated.
In this pic, you will see the arrow pointing to the 17mm oil plug. It's the only bolt that has a 17mm head. I use a rare earth magnetic plug off of ebay for $15 on mine.
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg56/14huejass/P5290181.jpg)
Just loosen the bolt/plug....... drain the oil. Tighten the plug back up snug, but not super tight, or you will crack the case. Fill up on the opposite side where the dip stick is, using a funnel and 10w40 oil. I use about 775ml. I fill to 2/3.
I change my oil at 1K or sooner, if it gets dirty.
You can use google to find a manual online. It's super easy to change your engine oil, trans gear oil, and belt and rollers. The spark plug is kind of a pain, but doable, nonetheless.
Best of luck.
-
Nice clean Guilty...
-
Tomorrow is the day. I am taking it in and having the dealership do its thing. Sure I will pay about $70 to have them go through it, but hopefully they will be able to tell me what is causing the lurching on take off.
Not only that I think I am developing a hole in my muffler! So I will be searching for a replacement also...
-
Good luck to you... most dealerships aren't knowledgeable with scooters. Too bad you don't have a local scooter club or crew that can help out.
-
Good luck to you... most dealerships aren't knowledgeable with scooters. Too bad you don't have a local scooter club or crew that can help out.
That would be helpful indeed! There is a motorcycle place that he works on scoots, not sure if he would be of any help or not.
I guess after the dealership route this weekend if it is still doing it I will open up and look for how the clutch looks. I have seen plenty of videos here to help me guide me. just wish me luck
-
Alrighty after the dealership gold care package performed...
Fancy name is all that is....
Any how when the mechanic or service person opened the cvt housing he saw the problem.
Or at least I am being told he saw the problem. They are saying that I need a new belt. Yes a new belt. I only have 6400 km on the bike (wish that was in miles on the bike but oh well). So now my quest turns into finding a new belt, a decent one, at a relatively cheap price. I will do the work on it myself but I want to find a cheap good belt.
They also said I need a new air filter and between the belt and the filter they were going to, including labor, sock it to me for $120!!!
So now to search the forums for a belt and air filter... Unless someone else knows good sources.
Also, while I am in there, should I replace the rollers/sliders??? Better ones maybe? What is stock weight?
thanks in advance!
-
I buy 18x14 rollers or sliders, and keep them in my garage. I think 14gram are the OEM ones. I'm running 3 10.8 & 3 12.2 sliders in mine. I use a round file and a gram scale to make my own weight. I'm running the NCY trans kit.
I use the Malossi belt from Italy, I bought 3 of them last year. I have 2 scooters, so now I have one as a backup.
Hit youtube on how to change your belt, it's super easy. You just need to get or make a variator tool.
Here is one you can make, just some flat bar from the hardware store, and 3 nuts and bolts. I made one just like it. Use it to take off your drive face and variator, as well as your clutch when trying to change your belt.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm60/nate75_2008/VariatorTool1.jpg)
-
I buy 18x14 rollers or sliders, and keep them in my garage. I think 14gram are the OEM ones. I'm running 3 10.8 & 3 12.2 sliders in mine. I use a round file and a gram scale to make my own weight. I'm running the NCY trans kit.
I use the Malossi belt from Italy, I bought 3 of them last year. I have 2 scooters, so now I have one as a backup.
Hit youtube on how to change your belt, it's super easy. You just need to get or make a variator tool.
Here is one you can make, just some flat bar from the hardware store, and 3 nuts and bolts. I made one just like it. Use it to take off your drive face and variator, as well as your clutch when trying to change your belt.
WOW!! A little more than what I need I think. There are a few belts on ebay and in particular one out of new yourk area I think that is $20.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/260893706638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_750 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/260893706638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_750)
Seen some of those videos and I will be following one when I do the work... Hooray for youtube!
-
Just gonna chime in on the Malossi belts, if anyone cares.
They're crap.
;D
-
The OEM belt you found is going to be the best one for your scoot. Most others are a matter of trial, and error as far as fit.
For the Malossi... They are the BEST belts made as far as NO SLIP, and NO STRETCH. The issue with them is their Short ass life. They do not wear... They Explode! Malossi belts are not made to last. They are made for the track, and most engines will not out live the belt anyway. IMHO!!!
-
You will se more dust/debris when new. It's all "breakin" matter.
you right I had same issue with my new scooter opened the cvt cover and added some thinner from clutch holes n started engine and did some blast n brakes on it and watched how the clutch gets involved ... and while it was good enough stopped n put the cover back so far its okei . :P
-
Okay what is the trick? I have the cover off, the belt took forever to get here, and I broke one of the fins off of the variator ( I believe that is what it is) and with my searching youtube for cvt belt replacement it isn't all it is cracked up to be. I have tried the one trick where you don't take anything off but the cover and I can't get the old belt off so now I need to either remove the variator or the clutch.
Which and how do I do that???????????????????????????????????????????
-
Either one is fine but you should take the Var. off to check the condition inside. If something is worn it could kill your new belt.
Drive belt and variator fan change. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1-df7EmSUg#)
This kid just jams a wrench up in the works. Try anything like that.
-
I saw that video as well.. Thanks for the link.
I am borrowing an electric impact wrench and will give that a go and see if it loosens the bugger.
Any idea on the broken fin? Will it cause some imbalance? If so where can one locate a good replacement one???
I am also looking to make one of those variator holding tools that someone recommended earlier... I might have to go by the flat stock though...
-
What fan do you have? Aluminum? http://www.partsforscooters.com/ (http://www.partsforscooters.com/) http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/ (http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/) If its a plastic one don't worry about it. Break off the other side. The nut is always Super tight the first time because it is really a one time use Cinch nut. Use blue lok tite.
-
What fan do you have? Aluminum? http://www.partsforscooters.com/ (http://www.partsforscooters.com/) http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/ (http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/) If its a plastic one don't worry about it. Break off the other side. The nut is always Super tight the first time because it is really a one time use Cinch nut. Use blue lok tite.
It is the aluminum one... gulp... so what part number do I search for at those websites? that first one partsforscooters.com does not show the agility 125...
Since I have the aluminum one, if in theory I break of the one on the other side would that work for a temporary fix?
-
It would be better than Not breaking it. Stadium Yamaha is a better place to get it anyway. Mention the Forum for 15% off. It's OEM vs copy.
-
It would be better than Not breaking it. Stadium Yamaha is a better place to get it anyway. Mention the Forum for 15% off. It's OEM vs copy.
Stadium yamaha wanted with shipping $48.00 for the part and I was able to use the part number I obtained there and searched and found kymcopartsonline.com (https://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_year_id=1&s_fk_scooter_model_id=1) and I got the same part for only $35.00.
I did notice that for some parts Stadium Yamaha was cheaper as well as the other way with the kymco parts online website. I supposedly will also receive the part in 2 to 5 business days...
I will have to put it together and run it for a week with that one piece missing and then try to replace the part next weekend.
If it is any consolation the part I broke was " FACE DRIVE **(0) C.2005.03.25 - 22102-KUDU-220"
Also out of curiosity, how dry or wet should it be inside there? Mine has like a greasy oily black film... my hands were black from trying to get the belt off the first few tries before giving up for today. Can I safely use something like brake klean to clean it out?
-
Brake clean is a good idea. Check your gear oil level. That may be leaking. The seal is easy to change.
-
Okay new belt is on the scooter but it still has what i call the lurch or jump when taking off. so much for the dealership knowing what is wrong...
i did notice when i had it open that the rollers looked like they almost had flat spots. is that normal? or are they bad?
-
The rollers should be round. They will reduce top speed, and give you other strange symptoms... Launching feeling. Buy a Quality set. Cheap rollers don't last.
-
The rollers should be round. They will reduce top speed, and give you other strange symptoms... Launching feeling. Buy a Quality set. Cheap rollers don't last.
what would be a good set? drpulley?
sliders or rollers? what weight? what is the stock weight?
-
Stock weight should be 14gr.
I'd put 13gr Dr Pulley sliders in there.
-
.msg73722#msg73722 date=1340550901]
Stock weight should be 14gr.
I'd put 13gr Dr Pulley sliders in there.
so would you say go with something like this?
Dr pulley 18x14 13gram] (http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=261019903522&index=7&nav=SEARCH&nid=99920925782 ).msg73722#msg73722 date=1340550901]
Stock weight should be 14gr.
I'd put 13gr Dr Pulley sliders in there.
[/quote]
so would you say go with something like this?
Dr pulley 18x14 13gram (http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=261019903522&index=7&nav=SEARCH&nid=99920925782)
-
Yeah.
I went from 14 rollers to 13gr rollers and lost about 6mph from the top speed, but the
bike accelerated a lot faster, which was great around town, especially considering I
almost never went over 50mph indicated, and the fuel consumption went up.
Dr Pulley sliders should take care of those high revs at the top, it will rev even less
then with original 14gr weights.
I never tried it though, maybe even 12gr would work great, you could be looking at
loosing some top speed with the 13gr.
10% lighter sliders vs stock rollers is the recommended starting point by Dr Pulley guys and
it works great in my Downtown 300 (went from 15.5 to 14, but probably should have gone
with 13-13,5).
-
I do not want to lose top end if at all possible. i have a stretch where i can open it up and push the max. but if it is recommended to go with the ones in the link i posted i will do that. now if i can keep from losing mph i am in like flynn!!!
so do i order those Dr pulley slides i linked to? good or bad?
not sure what the 18x14 means though...
-
I do not want to lose top end if at all possible. i have a stretch where i can open it up and push the max. but if it is recommended to go with the ones in the link i posted i will do that. now if i can keep from losing mph i am in like flynn!!!
so do i order those Dr pulley slides i linked to? good or bad?
not sure what the 18x14 means though...
18x14 is the size, and that's the correct size for your scoot.
Regarding the top speed.
If you're lucky, the 10% decrease in weight going from rollers to sliders SHOULD
result in same top speed at lower revs. Lower revs mean less power available in
the top gear ratio so an incline can result in a lower top speed after all. In some
situations the bike CAN push a bit more so you get an even higher top speed.
On a downhill slope you'll definitely go faster, but everything above 50mph is
over the suspensions comfort zone, IMHO.
Better acceleration though is a sure thing in this 14 to 13gr swap.
Math says a 10% decrease in weight is actually closer to 12.5gr weights.
You can mix a set of 12s and 13s to get that, and actually have a spare
set, or possibility to try only 12 and only 13 and see which ones you like better.
Considering the price, that's what I'd do.
-
This may help:
(http://unionmaterial.com/images/TESTREPORT.png)
-
So it is solved then. I am ordering a set of 12's and a set of 13's and I will mix them.
Question on the mixing, I am going to say it is a 50/50 mix equal parts of each one and alternate them in my placement. Right or wrong?
Thanks a bunch and a million and a half to all that have helped me out so far.
-
Yeah, alternate, the CVT has to be balanced.
You're welcome. ;)
-
I will update once I receive the new variator fan and sliders which by the way I ordered 12 and 13 gram sliders and will alternate installation.
Rode this morning to work and the new belt definitely is an improvement but the lurching/launching is still there... so lets hope the work later this weeks helps it out.
-
I'm running 11g sliders, 3-10.8 & 3-12.2.
NCY trans kit
Malossi belt.
I can still tuck and do 62-63mph.... or 72 indicated.
Yes, fuel consumption is higher, get a 50cc if you want better mileage.
-
I went from a 2 stroke 50cc to the Agility 125 because of better mileage. ;D
-
Okay so this may be a weird question. But can the belt be put on backwards?
I am asking as when I first get on the bike and for the first few stop and goes the belt slips. Slips and makes the noise of a slipping belt like on a car.
Could that also be due to my rollers issue and or the broken fins off of the variator fan?
-
Should be good, the drive face sometimes has a slightly different angle than the variator. I accidentally put one on backwards and ran 2K miles on it before noticing it.... ooooops. ;D
-
Should be good, the drive face sometimes has a slightly different angle than the variator. I accidentally put one on backwards and ran 2K miles on it before noticing it.... ooooops. ;D
so i could have the belt on backwards then??
how does one tell what is the right way to put a belt on? maybe if someone has a photo of the right way might help...
btw the new variator fan arrived and the slides should be here tomorrow!
-
How to Change CVT Drive Belt on a Scooter,GY6 Repair (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RocD4REOJ0Y#ws)
There is no "backwards". Only Opposite of the direction it came off. If you change the running direction it will re stretch in the new direction 1/2ing the life of the belt. Look at which way it is on the scoot, and replace it the same way. If a particular belt has an arrow... follow that.
-
There is no "backwards". Only Opposite of the direction it came off. If you change the running direction it will re stretch in the new direction 1/2ing the life of the belt. Look at which way it is on the scoot, and replace it the same way. If a particular belt has an arrow... follow that.
So basically then, if I put it on one way do not reverse it when I do the drpulley sliders this weekend?! Unless of course the belt has an arrow on it. I wouldn't think one week of riding would be that much of a difference to change it around the other way but then again maybe it would.
I am starting to believe that my flat sided stock rollers may be part of the reason for the belt slippage. ie not letting the variator work properly to keep the belt tight sort of thing. Once again I will find out this weekend after the sliders installation!
-
New sliders are in! A Mix of 12 gram and 13 gram Dr Pulley sliders! Lets say so far hard to tell the difference in the performance. Does feel a bit more responsive and the top end is not such a high rpm any more. Will be a good test on the way home tonight as I will not be limited by a 49cc riding partner (the wife) we leave at different times.
I can say that the squeal of the belt is gone. Didn't change it just put the new variator fan on with cleaning as much up as I could. Went through a good half a can of brake clean and still probably could have used more.
I did not remove the clutch pack and that is probably my down fall. I am now going to say that the little bit of shudder and lunging/lurching I am feeling now is from the clutch as everything else is pretty much new. It is definitely not like it was and is more manageable to deal with now. I guess time to look for clutch pack issues and definitely hesitant to tear into that but I am sure it isn't all that bad is it?
Also can the clutch pack be an issue for the shuddering and little lunge at take off??
-
New sliders are in! A Mix of 12 gram and 13 gram Dr Pulley sliders!
Welcome to the wonderful world of torn sliders and slider change every 1500 kms. ;D
-
Welcome to the wonderful world of torn sliders and slider change every 1500 kms. ;D
I replaced my factory rollers as they had flat spots and that is what I thought might have been causing the lunging/jumping/lurching from a stop giving it gas.
The old ones, the rollers were nasty dirty and like I said had flat spots. Hopefully these DR Pulley sliders last a while...
At least now I can pull the cover and get in there in oh say 30 minutes to change out rollers/sliders! and be back on the road!
I also need to replace that gasket that goes on that cover but I am not going to do so until I know I am done going in there for a while. IT is now torn in two places but I thought not a big deal as that cvt area is open to air in a couple areas.... so it doesn't need to be sealed like say the motor does.
-
Welcome to the wonderful world of torn sliders and slider change every 1500 kms. ;D
I've got around 7500km on my sliders as we speak, still look as new.
Tomorrow I'll be slappin' in the Malossi Multivar.. and will probably order sliders for that thing too.
Try them in your 250S, you'll never go back to normal weights.
-
+1 for this fix.
Just bought an Agility 125 and it was having this surging/jerking issue. Did essentially what is a scooter brakestand, took probably 3-4 tries but the issue has now gone away. Pretty awesome, I was able to negotiate a pretty good price for the machine from the seller thinking that this could have been an expensive repair.
Kymco Forum to the rescue!
-
;D