KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: axy on February 17, 2013, 11:52:52 AM
-
I am opening a topic dedicated to various liquids, "goos", tools, additives and chemicals that can help an average DIY mechanic achieve his goals.
I am not sure if I have already opened such a topic in the past. If possible I would like to ask skadamo to make it a sticky in this subforum.
The reason why I am opening it is that sometimes such things are indispensable when repairing things. I would like that we discuss them in a single topic regardless of the scooter type.
Also, many of those have a common household name for decades in the USA, while they are not marketed and sold in Europe.
At this moment, here are a few from my side:
1. The ubiquitous WD40 - not only to lube things but also to degrease metal
2. Duck (Duct) tape
3. Glycerol - good for rubber parts to prevent them from becoming brittle
4. Bumper renewal black liquid, any type - good for renewal of easy-fading Kymco plastic parts
5. Teflon grease - great for moving parts like levers, center and side stand
6. Car polish, any type for old color coatings
7. Large displacement syringe for ear flushing + 40 cms of small diameter tube - great for refilling the final gear on scoots
8. Small syringe - good to refill brake oil containers
9. Shoe mitt + painter's tape: good for isolation of painted parts of the scoot from the black ones during application of bumper renewal
Some tools:
1. 50 cm wrench to unlock vario nuts
2. Vario-flywheel holder
3. Brake caliper tool used to spread the pistons apart when installing new pads
4. Universal electric meter
5. Point and test electrical tester
Does anybody know of a de-rusting liquid that might remove spots of rust on suspension springs? I heard it does exist.
My second question is how to repair the connecting points of various plastic parts that get torn off very easily? I am not asking about click-clack parts but those where tiny screws go in. Is it possible to buy somewhere custom screws and mounting points that get welded or glued somehow to plastic parts? Or to make the question even more simple: if a mechanic gets a plastic piece with all mounting points torn off but otherwise in good shape, how will he mount it on the bike?
-
For the damaged screw fixings you could probably use one of those 2 part epoxy glues to fill up the damaged hole then redrill it smaller than the screw. Should hold ok if you use plenty of glue on both sides and let it set properly. You could even mount a nut on the inside with a good blob of the glue and then use a small bolt instead of the screw. You might need to retap out the nut tho if any glue gets into the threads.
-
Does anybody know of a de-rusting liquid that might remove spots of rust on suspension springs? I heard it does exist.
You can use a rust converter or rust remover but you need to paint the surface afterwards.
1. Vise grip - 1001 uses
2. Ignition sealer - spray on your ignition system to make it water resistant.
3. Tire repair kit - very good DIY kit in fixing flats.
-
naval jelly for rust removal .
-
I just found this online worth a try on those rusty shocks;
"To remove rust stains on painted surfaces without scratching(and other surfaces too)
use murphy's oil soap, that stuff for wood somehow removes the rust quick without
scrubbing or scratching an old timer told me to use it and I didn't believe him until I
tried it!!"
-
I live right on the water (Magnolia, MA.) & rust is a major problem! I spray my sccoter with either Boeshield here:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_16987_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_16987_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView)
or CorrosionX here:
http://www.amazon.com/CorrosionX-Lubricant-Penetrant-aerosol-90102/dp/B0009E1QWI/ref=pd_sim_auto_3 (http://www.amazon.com/CorrosionX-Lubricant-Penetrant-aerosol-90102/dp/B0009E1QWI/ref=pd_sim_auto_3)
Both work well & aren't not cheap. I find Boeshield (more money) last a little longer. I spray my GTI300 3-4 times a year, make sure you get the exhaust! This is a MUST if you live near the ocean.
-
Use Oil of Wintergreen to free up a rusted or corroded nut or bolt
after the usual stuff like penetrating oil does not work.
Then there is the old indian trick of heating the bolt up then drip wax on it.
After letting it cool it will release easily...
-
To clean jets in carbs;
hoppes #9 is the approved solvent for bendix aircraft fuel injectors, the stuff is amazing, bendix says 20min for ac application, but I do 18 to 24 hrs on brass motorcycle jets. it will open it up, and you wont believe your eyes
-
I just found this online worth a try on those rusty shocks;
"To remove rust stains on painted surfaces without scratching(and other surfaces too)
use murphy's oil soap, that stuff for wood somehow removes the rust quick without
scrubbing or scratching an old timer told me to use it and I didn't believe him until I
tried it!!"
This is a good stuff and cheap too, I will order it from ebay. However, I doubt it would work on rusting surfaces. It seems to work great when removing rust off other surfaces (polished wood, tiles etc.)
Keep up the posts on this topic going...
-
For rust, if WD40 won't do it, I use Naval Jelly.
Richard L.
-
I tried "Barkeepers Friend" for rust. It sort of works but requires a long soak. It has
oxalic acid which eats the rust away,
-
For mild paint removal "Dawn Power Dissolver". It works like aircraft paint stripper but
contains no acid. This legshield had 4 layers of paint, I sprayed it and covered it with
plastic overnight and the paint was softened. Took 3 tries to get it to this condition;
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t478/MotoRandy123/DSCN2878_zps61ba5a6a.jpg)
-
For rust, if WD40 won't do it, I use Naval Jelly.
Richard L.
I have used Naval Jelly for years...you can't leave it on there too long with Stainless Steel! It does work! The trick is too make sure it doesn't take hold 1st. Hence...Using Boeshield or CorrosionX after that. Living on the ocean up here in New England destroys metal....I use Boeshield & it's truly a "magic" product!
-
ATF ( automatid trans fluid ) works on rusted bolts too
-
Don't forget "Anti-seize" for spark plug threads and anywhere steel threads into aluminum.
Dielectric grease for all electrical connectors.
Karl
-
Yes Karl, dielectric grease also very good for battery terminals.... apply the grease AFTER connecting the cables not before...
strap wrenches....
(http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000037223911)
-
Does anybody know of a de-rusting liquid that might remove spots of rust on suspension springs? I heard it does exist.
Naval Jelly - it's a pink phosphoric acid... very strong, works very well. We used to use it on the farm to remove rust from combine headers so the wheat would slide in the header easily after it was cut. I used it once to derust a 1986 Ford Ranger gas tank.
Put it on, use a metal scrubbing pad to massage the rust away, rinse it off, paint if needed. You don't really need to scrub it, but it goes quicker if you do.
-
Liquid Performance Ethanol Equalizer - great stuff. 2009 Agility would sputter at 35-40mph. After putting some of this in and riding about .5 mile- it just took off and has run great ever since. I have used Sea Foam from day one and I have 5000 mile on her. I just sprayed out the inner carb. and adjusted the valves with no luck until I tried this stuff. It even took the ping out of my Road King. Watch the video demo on youtube !
-
I'll check it out. It's all about results.
-
Anyone know anything about Startron Enzyme Fuel Treatment? I've been adding an ounce to each tankful hoping to smooth out a lumpy idle when cold and having to mash the starter button for up to three seconds. It appears to have worked where nothing else I tried (Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant with Injector Cleaners and Fuel Conditioners, Kragen brand fuel injector cleaner, SeaFoam) worked for very long. Now the bike starts up with just a touch of the starter button, and the lumpy idle is better (although not as good as when new).
Anyone know what's in it?
Could it be my O2 sensor that's messed up? It smells like it's running a bit rich when cold, but when it's warmed up, it seems to be alright.
-
Rusty Duck spray solvent. Removes rust doesn't harm surface finish, like gun bluing. WD-40 is great at dissolving grease and oil, and will displace moisture, but has never been that good of a lube.
Ron
-
Loctite medium strength or the generic equivalent.
Silicone spray, Dielectric Grease.
Generic pry bar - separate rear pulley to make it easy to reinstall / remove the drive belt on GV250 / Bet & Win, Grand Dink etc.
and perfect for separating brake pads - no need or rarely a need for the special brake pad tool.
Recommend - combining all solutions in to a single post. Great idea for a topic.
-
Heard about. FLS-3 ?
It's an oil lubricant,sprays on like goey wax.....my question is,....since The outer body is fiberglass ......where on a Kymco like 125, do you have only metal parts that need this ?
-
Tungsten Disulfide (aka WS2), 0.6 micron. Add 8.5 grams to each quart of oil, and 1.75 grams for your 200 ml of gear oil. Add just enough to your grease that it blackens it.
It's the most lubricious material known to man. It decreases the piston ring / cylinder wall friction, along with protecting your bearings should they ever get oil-starved (for oiled bearings) or have the grease washed / melted out of them (for greased bearings).