KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: CROSSBOLT on May 24, 2013, 06:33:58 PM
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First, I would like to gripe and criticize: Why put the excellent white LED helmet/luggage tub light in THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB!!! Anything in that tub will block the light. Duh!
Second, the back brake seems to have a slight drag on it after riding. It is not really bad and I do not notice any drag while riding. Just when I park it on the center stand and spin the wheel it spins reluctantly. Works almost OK after it cools off. Disc does not get hot but the caliper and surrounding area is heated by the muffler. Yeah, I know. Don't put it on the center stand and try to spin the wheel after riding!
Lastly, the CVT box gets HOT! I guess that's why they put those stylish heat shield covers over the metal cover.
Karl
l
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Are you sure it's the brake? My rear wheel is sluggish to rotate but that's because your
moving all the gears and the clutch. There's a lot of mass there...
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Yes, since I removed the brake to "prove" it was the brake dragging. The wheel, gears and clutch rotated freely and would coast to a stop. Put the brake back on and everything was free. Took a ride and the brake would drag slightly. Let it cool off and all was well.
Karl
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Brakes really get hot and yes, they do drag and it's normal... especially motorcycle brakes... that's why they require DOT4 brake fluids that have higher boiling points....
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I've seen some that drag a tiny bit and some that don't. There's no mechanism to fix it though.
The anti rattle clips will help if they are fitted originally. You can try lubing the pins and cleaning
and polishing the metal on the pads that they move on but sometimes they just don't move back
like you want them to....
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Lastly, the CVT box gets HOT! I guess that's why they put those stylish heat shield covers over the metal cover.
Is the stylish heat shield cover the same as the duct that pipes in air from the front while keeping out water?
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yes that is the tranny cover ,. short air intake in front and the puke tube is held by a little clip in front on the inside ,. should be cleaned out , I do mine with oil changes,. 1/2 inch tube with plug in the end. you will find it when you take the first cover off.
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Lastly, the CVT box gets HOT! I guess that's why they put those stylish heat shield covers over the metal cover.
Karl
Yes, that's why some open the cover or drill holes on them.....
l
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Drill holes?? Do you have pics?
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http://www.49ccscoot.com/cvtcooling.html (http://www.49ccscoot.com/cvtcooling.html)
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Drill holes?? Do you have pics?
examples:
(http://oi42.tinypic.com/143nm1w.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z409/jaybrax400/cvtcover002.jpg)
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Here is some more: Had a couple of good trips and noticed tranny oil seeping out of the fill plug. I changed to synthetic recently an noticed that there was no gasket/washer on the fill plug at the time. Cleaned off the seeping mess and made a washer out of 1/16" gasket material and installed. Checked the parts pix on line and there is not washer/gasket. There was no such thing on the Yager fill bolt but it never leaked. Just finished a couple of hundred mile trips and no seeping so far.
Karl
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I also noticed there was no washer on the tranny fill plug when I changed my oil. So far mine is not leaking (yet)
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Got a good one: Nearly all the PH2 screws that will be removed for some kind of maintenance have Taiwan Tinnerman nuts! These are actually better quality than most aviation versions since they are all cad plated. The ones that take machine screws are like Tinnerman nutplates. Very good stuff! This is the way it was/is on all three of my Kymcos.
Karl
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Anyone else notice that when your stopped on a hill with the rear brake on, it makes the whole scooter shake a little. I know it's just transferring the engine shake straight through the brakes but just saying.
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I can't say I notice, because I always stop with the rear brake on. But are you holding the rear brake lightly or tightly at a stop?
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Just enough to keep from rolling
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Squeeze the rear brake lever a bit tighter and see if it goes away or becomes less noticeable. That way the brake pads don't chatter against the rotor and vibrate with the wheel and clutch while you are stopped and waiting to go. :-)
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Anyone else notice that when your stopped on a hill with the rear brake on, it makes the whole scooter shake a little. I know it's just transferring the engine shake straight through the brakes but just saying.
I have a different experience on my Super 8... when I stop and at idle, the scoot shakes a little, when I press the rear brakes, the shaking stops...
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The cvt outer plastic cover is for noise reduction, there is an inlet/exhaust type impeller to move air through the unit. If you think it hot back there a Burgman 400 is hotter by much more.
At a stop using the front brake instead of the rear will stop the shakes.
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At a stop using the front brake instead of the rear will stop the shakes.
But much slower for the jack rabbit starts. ;D
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haha, just noticed that transfer of vibration at the last stop on the way home... there is more engine vibration when applying the rear vs front brakes at fullstop...
normally i'd not of even noticed but my son was riding with me.. so randomly i'd applied brakes to stiffen his fidgetting / weight transfer.
So I went to the dealer to run a few diagnostic checks about a rough start after the engine is warm... MY brand new 2013 Black 300i on two occasions has started then choked out... when it does this, i've seen a engine picture with a number 10 displayed on its lcd display ? usually it starts then cycles to 1800 rpm within seconds, but like i mentioned on accasion when its warm... it starts coughs sputters then returns to 1800rpm. this seems to be the normal warm start. :'(
theorys ?
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Initialize the TPS and ISV. That is, the Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Speed Valve (or Air Bypass Valve, same thing, different design). Here is how to do that as per Service Manual: Key off, engine run-stop switch in Run, open throttle to stop, turn key on, hold throttle wide open for 8 seconds then close, turn key off. Initialization complete!
Try a ride tomorrow and call me in the morning! Normal idle speed should be 1650 rpm but anything from 1600 to 1800 is realistic.
YerffeJ, I forgot to say why I got involved in "Initialize." Mine was doing the same thing yours was doing except no "10" on the display.
Karl
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+1 solution. no flutter sputter cough choke. after initialization complete... brilliant. the idle speed has dropped about 150 aswell asuming the gage is correct.. its alot closer to 1700 now Thank you Very much.
however i didn't halucinate the lcd display number theres been other sightings of this... just no solutions :)
Initialize the TPS and ISV. That is, the Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Speed Valve (or Air Bypass Valve, same thing, different design). Here is how to do that as per Service Manual: Key off, engine run-stop switch in Run, open throttle to stop, turn key on, hold throttle wide open for 8 seconds then close, turn key off. Initialization complete!
Try a ride tomorrow and call me in the morning! Normal idle speed should be 1650 rpm but anything from 1600 to 1800 is realistic.
YerffeJ, I forgot to say why I got involved in "Initialize." Mine was doing the same thing yours was doing except no "10" on the display.
Karl
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You are welcome. Now, try this to get rid of the "10": Bike on centerstand, key off, stop-run switch in run, key on, wait 10 seconds, wide open throttle for 10 seconds, throttle closed. CELP light should flash for 2 seconds then remain out and maybe the "10" will stay away, too. I have not done this nor have had any codes to erase. this should not cause any problems if there are no trouble codes stored. Please tell us where on the display this "10" has appeared. In fact, it may be better to start there (where does the "10" appear) first and then we will see what is next to do. As far as I know, all trouble codes show as coded flashes of the CELP light.
Karl
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This initialize thing should be done at the factory prior to first run-up which should be in the final QC checks before shipping. Failing that it should be at the dealer before delivery but we all know that is not gonna happen. None of us would not even know the procedure existed without the Service Manual. Most of us would not have a service manual if not for a couple of folks ON THIS FORUM!
Karl
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I'm having trouble getting my bike started when the motor is hot. It tries to turn over but won't stay started. Of course, it's on the side kickstand at the time and I can't rev the engine at all.
Any suggestions as to what could cause this? Is this something inherent in the DT300i? I have about 300 miles on it.
Thanks all.
ETA: I know that the front turn signal is on the mirror, but I was surprised to see that the bulb in the headlight panel where the turn signal may be on other models is a dummy bulb. It looks like a silver ball. Is it possible to switch it out for a real bulb that might add some visibility when using the turn signal? Or is it also a dummy socket?
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I'm having trouble getting my bike started when the motor is hot. It tries to turn over but won't stay started. Of course, it's on the side kickstand at the time and I can't rev the engine at all.
It should not start or run with the side stand down. It is a safety feature. Either use the center stand or sit on it with no stand to start.
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It should not start or run with the side stand down. It is a safety feature. Either use the center stand or sit on it with no stand to start.
I don't know why I said that. I guess it's because I almost always use the side stand. However, in this case, the stand is up when I try to start it hot.