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Heres a video of it going through about 10 inches of alaska mud water with a husky

I saw the front

gonna let a brotha ride ass backwards lol

Great news!

Tires installed and it actually turns smoother and the engine breaking isnt as abrupt, she slowly coasts to a stop also the strange disk brake grind sound is also gone for now, albeit I only drove about 1mile so far. RPMS do not seem to suffer too much, might be more noticeable on terrain. Did not require the 2" spacers I purchased, but it may need them after checking the trails but I dont see any rubbing only a 1/4 gap between back of tire and firewall. Overall Im really impressed and if you have the chance try the Super ATV intimidators in 26.5

I gained 3 and 1/4 lift in front, and 4 1/4 in the rear! whoohoo. Now I just need to move the shocks outward to get some more, but the bolts are not loose enough.

Accidentally torqued the front to 80ft lbs and 40 for the rear. Tomorrow we are going to test it on a trail we have rode with stock tires.

15025D05-1385-4D8C-9C8A-955AD3700EB0 by None None, on Flickr

IMG_9060 by None None, on Flickr

IMG_9063 by None None, on Flickr

the stock tires are 25 but only measure about 23.5 so it should be a significant lift!

hoping to have new pics up by wednesday and a trail report

SuperATV intimidator 26.5 x 11 x 14

waiting on the new wheels to mount them

Most folks are looking for more ground clearance, so they adjust the shock springs up tight to stretch the shocks to full length. This can be a stiff ride on rough terrain.  By backing off shock springs to make a softer ride you lower the ground clearance. If you look up under the machine you will see another set of holes further to the outside where the shocks can be moved out to a more straight up and down position. This adds almost 2" to the overall height of the machine by increasing ground clearance. Now you can back off the springs to make a softer ride while still gaining most of the added ground clearance. You gain more clearance while making a softer ride over rough ground. At least that is the theory. Many have made this change and claim it works well. I will be hitting the trails later this week to see how it really works.  To move the rear shocks out you need to remove the sway bar. Many claim the sway bar is not needed on this machine.  If you are racing into a corner hard at speed this bar helps keep the rear flatter. These machines are not performance or made/designed for any kind of racing. Many claim the sway bar keeps the independent rear suspension from doing its job on extreme uneven ground. I took mine on the paved road and my very uneven back 40 and found no issues at this point. After this week I will have put it threw its paces.

Airshot, you have so much knowledge please make a youtube account for the kymcos and film yourself either doing the adjustments or show us noobs where to look and what to expect lol.

Removed the sensor, cleaned and went for 3 miles, it shut off again but I ordered an ebay replacement, its not built for the Kymco, I think it was a RZR 2011-19 speed sensor but body wise and 3 prong it looks exactly the same for 1/10th the price. They want 133$ for the Kymco 500 version. So im hoping they are compatible. I will update later