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Messages - Matty

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31
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 28, 2011, 03:36:39 PM »
Hey folks. Just for clarity, I already replaced the spark plug with a brand new iridium one, and it made no difference at all. I know it could still be other electrical components so will post a video of the spark shortly. For reference, below was the condition of the old spark plug when it came out.






32
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 27, 2011, 07:03:46 AM »
UPDATE: Took the battery for testing. The chap said something like "1256". No idea what he meant, but he said it should be fine. I'll test the actual spark and post a video this weekend.


33
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 24, 2011, 03:57:38 PM »
Thanks kanbisk

I'll pull the thing out and give it a good looking at for a part number tonight.

I'm thinking i'll just replace the whole carb - a new slow jet is £9 and a whole new carb is £25. Crazy world...

Think I may have killed my warranty! At least I get to learn a bit about bikes.

Thanks
Matt

34
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 24, 2011, 07:48:11 AM »
Quote from: Matty on October 23, 2011, 09:24:15 AM

I've found the following - should this work? 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Keihin-CVK-FCR-PWK-PE-PD-PWM-PJ-pilot-jets-N424-21-35-/260770801146?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb726a5fa
Matty

Sorry to nag, folks. I'm eager to get this ordered - had to come in to work on the pushbike today... Does the above jet look like the right one? Failing that which carbs do the kymco 50s use and I'll work it out for myself.

Thanks
Matt

35
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 23, 2011, 09:24:15 AM »
Thanks JWTR. I will do as you suggest - replace the broken jet and get the battery tested. I'll report back when I'm done.
I'll see if I can upload a video of the spark firing (or not!)

On the broken jet front, does anyone know what jet I need? Manual says #35 but gives no help beyond there. What types of carb do these kymcos use?

I've found the following - should this work? 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Keihin-CVK-FCR-PWK-PE-PD-PWM-PJ-pilot-jets-N424-21-35-/260770801146?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb726a5fa
Matty

36
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 22, 2011, 08:55:36 PM »
ok thanks. rollers are next on the list.

right I've had my first attack. Not so successful unfortunately...here's what I've managed:

Removed the carburettor after a bit of a fight - I've managed to destroy one of the bolts holding the throttle cable on to the carburettor. Will have to find a replacement later.

Got the thing open and generally it looked pretty clean. I did however notice the following:

1. The gasket is considerably larger than the channel that it is supposed to run in. So much so that it was impossible to get it to sit inside before reassembly. Is this normal?

2. The air intake (from the air cleaner to the carburettor) was not correctly fitted and there was a bit of dirt inside the carburettor immediately where the air intake pipe attached.

3. The main jet seemed fine, but I couldnt tell what size it was. I replaced it with an 82 anyway, which to the eye looked to have an identical sized hole to the one I took out.

4. I cleaned the idle jet. Then I screwed it back in and it broke (newbie error - overtightened). The hole seemed intact it just split at the top where the screwdriver inserts, so I just left it in as I don't have a replacement at the moment.

5. Fuel lines all seem fine but I replaced the fuel filter with http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMALL-LINE-FUEL-FILTER-Petrol-Diesel-Hose-Pipe-6mm-/250848389239?pt=UK_CartsParts_Vehicles_ATVQuad_Trike_Parts_Accessories_SM&hash=item3a67baa877 anyway.

So I put it all back together again and tried to start.

Same problem, no change at all. Won't start on the electric start. Takes about 10 kicks to start on the kickstart. Except now I have a new problem:

- when idling, it will idle for a little bit, then rpm will go lower and lower until it cuts out. Runs fine as long as revs are high.


Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Next on my list is to check the valve clearances but I can't do that till my tools arrive next weekend. Also I'll probably have to replace the idle jet now I broke it.

Any suggestions?

37
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 19, 2011, 03:00:50 PM »
Great thanks kisbee/Streido. Manual downloaded. Will digest before digging in.

Just had another thought. On 1 full tank if I'm going longer distances I can usually get about 100 miles out of her. In town (stop and start - 60 traffic lights on my way into work!) I usually get around 85-90 miles out of a full tank. Due to my awful acceleration, the throttle is pretty much only ever fully twisted, or off.

Does that sound around normal? Might help in the diagnosis...

Also another newbie question - I'm aquiring parts for the weekend "makeover". The kymco manual says #82 main jet and #35 slow jet. Is the latter a typo? I can only find #135 jets on the web (and they're pretty few and far between)?


Thoughts welcome. Thanks in advance. Matt

38
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 19, 2011, 12:03:03 PM »
Thanks kisbee. it was starting pretty well until lately off the electric start and even now when it fails to start it seems to have plenty of juice to turn th engine over.

I've ordered a trickle charger just to see if it makes a difference, but sounds like it's back to plan a.

JWTR - the spark plug is new and as above i dont' think it's the battery, so I'll try the fuel screw. THanks.

39
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 19, 2011, 07:43:10 AM »
Quote from: JustWantToRide on October 18, 2011, 11:28:43 PM
A dark spark plug usually means that either you were running rich or you've got a weak spark.  Having a weak spark could also cause it to be weaker at low rpm's and then seem to run better at higher rpm's with more juice.  But I always check the easiest things first.

Running weak at low speed/rpm/throttle - and a dark plug.  Is it possible that either your Fuel screw on the carb has loosened and is making it too rich at low rpm or that possibly the slow air jet has got something obstructing it?  Find out how many turns out your fuel screw should be set at - and make sure it isn't out too far.  It will affect you until about half throttle.  

If it truly runs better above 30 and doesn't run better at 20 with full throttle - then I'm leaning towards a weak spark.  Do you have a good battery with a strong charge?



Thanks jwtr and kisbee. I'll check the fuel screw first to see if that's the problem before disassembling the carb.

Re the battery, I expect it's the one that was in there from new, so it must be around 18 months old. I'll try taking it out for a charge, but given I'm running it 9 miles each way on a daily commute, would this not be enough to charge it thoroughly? or is a separte charger always a good idea from time to time?




40
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 09:19:15 PM »
Quote from: kisbee on October 18, 2011, 08:11:49 PM
MATTY i notice you say your air intake pipe was lose i wonder if this has made your engine run leen, do you know how long it was lose for as your engine would have been sucking in extra air giving you a leen mix, it would be like fitting a k&n or other sports filter without adjusting your fuel mixture which would mean your engine could have been running to hot for many months its just a thought does anyone else think this could have caused mattys problem....


Hi kisbee. I'd say the intake pipe has been loose for the last few months as the screw holding it on was unscrewed a long way. Since fixing it this weekend it seems to have got worse but then the uk weather has also got a lot colder. Only starting from the kick start now.

I must admit I'm still a little confused by the profile of the acceleration ie. very slow then a second push after 30. Can this really be due to a dirty carburettor?

Re. The spark, the old spark was blackish, but the new spark plug has made mo difference.

41
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 04:50:23 PM »
Quote from: jezyg on October 18, 2011, 04:25:59 PM
Try running a tank of super unleaded through, super has extra cleaning agents that may help and reduce some of the flat spots.

Super unleaded? Is that the #98 higher octane stuff you get at most petrol stations? If so, that's all I've run it on from day one. Mainly because the performance is so poor it needs all the help it can get!

Separately, I think it was the air intake to the carburettor that was looks (it was a big plastic pipe with a diameter of around 40mm) which had come very loose. Might this have had an effect?

If so am I right to think that a carb clean would pick up any problems that would result?

How long am I looking at for a full carb clean as a complete newbie? I'd guess 6 hours? What's the "one" thing to be careful of? ie. the mistake that all newbies make??

Thanks again guys (and girls?)

42
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 02:59:06 PM »
Quote from: woodcutter on October 18, 2011, 02:36:22 PM
I don't like seafoam or simmilar products on this type of engine and fuel supply. there is only on complicated electronic fuel injection.
there's nothing better than manualy cleaning complete fuel system on agility

Thanks woodcutter/kisbee/resolve. Yes it sounds like a full clean-out job. I'll check the jets installed whilst I'm at it.
I'd rather not derestrict it if possible because of the (sorry if this is about to be a newbie comment) insurance implications?? I'm only ever in city centres so acceleration is more important ot me than top speed.

It might be easiest just to replace the fuel lines. Where can I find the right size (bore) of tube I need? Other than just replacing as per existing. Thanks

43
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 01:59:08 PM »
Quote from: kisbee on October 18, 2011, 01:38:07 PM
You dont need a spring compressor thats only for removing the valves to adjust them you first need to remove the rocker cover to access them then you just need correct size spanner and a flathead screwdriver plus a set of feeler guages and the correct setting/gap which i can check for you in my manual, If you are going to attempt it yourself there are many videos on you tube that will help/show how its done just search (scooter valve adjustment) but i notice you say the bike has done liitle over 3000km i would not have thought the valves would be off by much at such low miles unless they were not set correct at manufacture but these guys on here have much more experiance than me with the agility's so i could be wrong....

Thanks Kisbee. Checked youtube. Feeler gauges purchased and on their way. Like you say it is a newish bike. Will wait to hear any other thoughts before I tuck in! If not, sounds like an interesting weekend ahead...

44
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 01:27:41 PM »
Quote from: blue on October 18, 2011, 01:07:46 PM
with everything going on with your scoot it sounds like you just need valves adjustment and take and clean the whole carb realy realy good. Im working on mine now to and I found out I need a new carb the acceleration pump on the carb is done for so mine well act up to because of it.and with the miles you say you have on the scoot your warrenty is over.warrenty is for less then 1100km miles.

I think Kisbee is right on the warranty but I will check. 1100km sounds a little light. Pretty sure it's 2 years unlimited miles. Either way if they want to play hardball they can argue that I changed the spark plug. That said the first 2 services were done by a dealer so I could argue it a little.

Valve adjustment...is that a tough one to do and do I need any special tools? My reading suggests I might need a valve spring compressor tool. Is that true, or is it something I could actually bodge using standard tools?

The other one on my radar is cylinder compression - is there an easy way to check if this is the problem?

Thanks for all the help folks

45
Agility 50 / Re: Verbal Diarrhgnonis
« on: October 18, 2011, 01:23:18 PM »
Quote from: juice on October 18, 2011, 12:56:06 PM
I don't know what "redex" is but after you change your fuel filter you should try some seafoam gas treatment . It will help clean your fuel system and stabilize the fuel . Good luck .

Thanks Juice. I think redex is the same as seafoam. It's an injector cleaner that you put in your petrol tank to help clean out the gunge. Although I'm not sure how good redex is vs. seafoam.

Does anyone know of a better UK product than redex that might help? If I can clean without pulling the thing to pieces that would be great.

On the fuel filter front, I just got a cheapo one off ebay which said it was suitable for scooters. Is there much science to which filter I actually install, or will any one do?

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