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Looks like it should be similar to the one on a Xciting 500. Remove the clip and pin and carefully pullout because there is likely a spring and ball detent that will fall out as its removed.

Is that a button between the two? Press and hold until it switches back.

His Aprilia is 2003.

Same year as mine. Best looking maxi.

Based on only my experience with two Kymco models they aren't quite Japanese in quality.

My first Kymco i bought new in 2016 a 2014 MyRoad 700i has had a electronic adjusting shock replaced, oil leak from final drive into CVT causing clutch slippage, crank sensor replaced, underseat light replaced, and cooling fan temp switch replaced all under warranty. Then out of warranty repairs, crank sensor replaced again, cooling fan EMI filter replaced, had to reseal the final drive to CVT again, and both OE Maxxis tires tread separated on me. I also have a problem with the warning light masks deteriorating in the instrument panel, just recently the plastic anti scratch coating flaking off the windscreen and headlamp lens. I now have 29K mi on it. These problems and more are not uncommon on this model including crank sensors and stators dying under 5,000 miles on them. Several owners have had them bought back. I repair my own bikes and like this one for how it runs/rides/uniqueness so I have kept it.

Experience with a 2016 Kymco Xciting 500 loaned to me having put about 3K mi (had 12K mi on it) it was pointed out to me that the satin metal looking trim in the instrument was deformed from simply sitting in the sun. I rode this bike and near the end of my time with it the top speed had dropped from 95 mph to not being able to maintain 70 mph on a overpass and making the bIke feel unsafe on the freeway. The dealer did various repairs including CVT belt, rollers, and the muffler to which they said a baffle broke inside. I have not been able to ride this again to see if the issue has been fixed.

I'm not sure if John will post back up or not but I did ask him if he got it fixed. The fix turned out to be the stator. Here's what was happening. Basically the bike would start and run until the battery voltage dropped below what the ECU needed and then shut off. This explains why there were no codes in the ECU and that over time the bike would run shorter periods over time as the battery was drained since the stator wasn't keeping it charged. Odd that the battery wasn't drained enough to prevent the starter from working or maybe it was and needed to be charged up. This is the second stator I know of causing the problem both of which had less than 5,000 miles on the bikes. So always check that the bike properly charges the battery before moving on to other things electrical.

I wouldn't walk down this road!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=fRrVP2TJwck&feature=emb_titl

Been there, walked it, drove it in my Nissan Frontier (3 wheeling it on the switchbacks), and drove it in my Jeep. Rode along with friends this year. Two days later some idiot rolled his 4Runner at the top.

And this poor guy loses his Jeep.

Seen that happen with aftermarket engine skid plates, sloppy oil changes, and rags left on them. Sucks though.

12.8 volts with the key on? If so sounds like a main connection either at the battery, harness, or switch. Do you have a under seat light and does it work?