KymcoForum.com

Sounds like the big job is getting over the fear,  if you want practise take a peddle bike apart, same idea!!!

Dedee,  I did,  just as other things,  a 400cc engine to pieces, for a while I was into watches,  and I managed to fix some of them (and some I screwed up forever)  usually I am brave to go in and sort things,  whilst in the middle of the job,  I just probably over-educated myself with all them videos

Anyway,  a local garage quoted me 150USD worth of forints to do the job,  and there is no bloody way,  I am. paying that,  and the front of the bike -  all the unnecessary plastics are already off,  so I will do it

Is there anything,  I should be aware of? Is there a large enough lip in the steering tube to be able to hammer the old races out?

Thanks!

Gábor

Dear all!

I have this troublesome bike of mine - I started with the iffy working engine, that is just about right at the moment. Next important stuff to sort is the steering bearing, as the steering was sloppy and has got a notch in the middle - I have tightened the castle nut, now the central notch is so pronounced, it is like driving a rail cart. Obviously high speed cruising wouldn't be much of an issue, as one barely moves the handle, but city maneuvers feel downright scary. Karl - you might know some neat tricks, as you have been great at providing advice before, or if anybody has got some ideas, please share them, are there any tricks to removal-replacement? I have gone through youtube vids, how to bend a long screwdriver to use as a lower race drift, how to cut the stem lower race with a dremel in order to split it later, how to put the stem in freezer and heat up the race to ease refitting and also to freeze the tube races and use the old races as drives... So I'm somewhat bracing myself to this job, but there might be some type specific tips, you know about? If I'm not mistaken, Xciting 250, 500 and Downtowns share the same layout...

Thank you!!

Gab

One more thing, I forgot to mention is a rather high idle, the bike idles at 2100-2200 RPM, as far as I know, this should be 1600 +/- 100. I am not sure, if there is any connection, but maybe something?

The shotgun approach (replacing and removing numerous unrelated parts just to see what works) is not good for troubleshooting. It just leads to more frustration. ALL engines large or small need compression, fuel, and ignition in order to run. In your case, based ONLY on the information given , the fact that the spark plug shows evidence of running lean, and the fuel system was full of gunk. Once you get it to spin over again, I’d recheck spark and fuel pressure before replacing or cleaning even one more part. If fuel pressure is low, address that concern. If it’s ok, then proceed down the line. The others can tell you what order to check things out because they are more familiar with scooters.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Forbes1964, you are absolutely right, obviously first I need to check,  if the battery is flat,  if not,  then find the cause foe the non-start issue,  check fuel pressure,  and only after that need to tackle other things.  I am just thinking ahead,  as I'm far away from the bike and  planning in my head,  what might be needing doing...

Hey, Forbes! Is this szabgab not great to work with? Sza, you are getting this! I will bet you will not need the Kymc tool. I cannot wait for your next post!

Karl,  this is most kind   Anyway,  the bike is sitting in the garage,  as I had to travel away for a few days but before I went away,  I tried to start the bike,  it did not fire a single time,  just cranking.  I did not have time to investigate,  so I just hope the battery has gone flat...   Leaving me in a cliffhanger like that,  now I can spend the weekend away wondering,  what on Earth is going on

Now  then...  Injector back from cleaners,  they were a strange bunch and did not want to show me the cleaning rig,  it was all very suspicious.  Anyway,  I hooked up it,  the bike did not want to start at all,  and thrown a code 33 at me (if I deciphered the three long three short blinks correctly).  I have taken the injector out,  it did sprayed petrol just fine and have read 11.1 Ohms,  which is right according to the service manual.  I put the injector back,  tried to start engine and it did start as it is ever since, however the check engine light is on since and upon start it blinks the same code.  How should I go about resetting the ECU,  should I reset it,  abd if the problem is still there,  will it be un-resettabble?

Thank you!

OK, I know, what I did wrong, a) used the resetting procedure of a People 200, and that did not cut it for the Xciting b) I did not use the search button here on the forum. The 10sec off 10 sec on did the trick, there is no check engine symbol and flashing linght on start-up, I hope, it stays that way.

Needless to say, with the fuel strainer back on the bike needs three primes again to start.

Dear oh dear...

Where is the connector for the Kymco analyzer tool and what does it look like?

Hi Crossbolt, it sits next to the battery, to me it looks like any car/motorbike electric connector...

Crossbolt - Oh no, I'm a resilient type and love my bikes even if I have to spend considerable amount of time wrenching on them (as long as it is in my garage and not on the side of the road). My wife actually thinks I rather enjoy this and the only reason, I've sold my '82 Honda CB400 was, that it was working too well already

Forbes1964 - We can't get Seafoam, but I have thought of getting a can of STP or Chevron treatment, but given, that they cost 6-7-8 USD over here and getting the injector professionally cleaned is 15 USD I have taken the injector in. Will see, how that pans out, they said, that the injector is clicking, but barely opening, so it must be full of crap.... Fingers crossed