91
Agility 125 / Re: scooter sputtered this morning and then died.
« on: December 01, 2020, 08:52:13 AM »
I assume this scooter’s problem has been solved ?
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92
People s200 / Re: fork oil change, with pics
« on: November 29, 2020, 06:08:42 PM »
It turns out it's not a rubbery frame but very poor initial damping of the forks. It's as if the first 1/4 to 1/2 inch of travel is completely undamped and that translates to a jackhammer like feeling in the bars.
I think my Agility has a similar problem. When I pull the front brake only the forks go down about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a cracking noise when it “bottoms” at about 1/2 inch.
Unfortunately I use my Agility for daily commuting and I do not have time to have a look at the forks in the near future.
Anyway, thanks for the comments and photos, this will be very helpful.
93
General Discussion / Re: Drive belts
« on: November 23, 2020, 07:25:44 AM »Not necessarily. I put 18K miles on the original belt on my majesty and it didn't look worn when I replaced it. On the other hand the belt on my Like 150i snapped at 10,000 miles even though the replacement interval is 12,000 miles.
Bigger heavier scooters also tend to have bigger belts.
Thanks, that makes sence.
I guess riding habits an the purpose the scooters get used for also play a role.
94
General Discussion / Re: Drive belts
« on: November 21, 2020, 03:39:51 PM »
I assume drive belts on bigger (heavier) scooters have a shorter lifespan than drive belts on smaller scooters ?
95
Technical | How To / Re: So, how does CVT work?
« on: November 21, 2020, 01:38:05 AM »
I am not sure about maintenance costs on bigger scooters, but on the Agility 125’s maintenance costs on the CVT system is definitaly cheaper than lubricating and replacing chains and sprockets on a motorcycle.
That’s one thing I really like about CVT systems - compared to chains and sprockets on motorcycles the CVT systems need far less maintenance.
That’s one thing I really like about CVT systems - compared to chains and sprockets on motorcycles the CVT systems need far less maintenance.
96
Technical | How To / Re: Air cooled scooters, cooling?
« on: November 15, 2020, 04:22:23 AM »heck, I only run non-ethanol gas with stabilizer and I STILL have carb problems! It's more likely because I only ride my scoot a few times each month (was able to put a whole 300 miles on it this year!..my most in the 5 years of owning it)
I've had regular pilot jet clogging. Now if I rode the scoot almost daily? Probably wouldn't have any issues at all.
I rode my scooter daily on non-ethanol gas during the past two years and I never had any issues. Same with previous bikes with carburetors.
Having said that - I owned two engine driven high pressure cleaners which often did not get used for several months. Non-ethanol gas was used, and both carburetors usually clogged up after a few months.
I usually used white vinegar to clean the carbs to get the engines going again. The carbs were srtipped, the loose components got submerged in white vinegar for a day or two, and I just used an air compressor to blow out everything..
97
Technical | How To / Re: Air cooled scooters, cooling?
« on: November 13, 2020, 11:17:54 AM »
I think due to the the fact that the air cooler will be located at the suction side of the oil pumps ( when the aftermarket oil plug adaptors get used on our scooters) specially the height of the oil cooler will be very important.
For example, I think if the cooler gets mounted too high, the oil will probably drain into the sump when the engine is not running. In such a case the oil pump will probably run almost dry when the engine gets started again - and the oil pump will probably not be able to suck oil through the cooler system when the engine get started again.
I am just guessing, but I think an owner needs to know exactly how to install an oil cooler modification on these scooters - otherwise the modification might ruin the engine.
In short - my nerves are simply not strong enough to try one of these aftermarket oil cooling systems.
For example, I think if the cooler gets mounted too high, the oil will probably drain into the sump when the engine is not running. In such a case the oil pump will probably run almost dry when the engine gets started again - and the oil pump will probably not be able to suck oil through the cooler system when the engine get started again.
I am just guessing, but I think an owner needs to know exactly how to install an oil cooler modification on these scooters - otherwise the modification might ruin the engine.
In short - my nerves are simply not strong enough to try one of these aftermarket oil cooling systems.
98
Technical | How To / Re: Air cooled scooters, cooling?
« on: November 13, 2020, 05:06:53 AM »Two times in this season, I think it overheated but not 100% sure. After few minutes waiting back to normal. Both times with full gas more than half an hour. RPM maybe around 7000 with these cases. 50 cc fourstroke engine, limited speed 45 kmh.
I think our scooters are simply not designed to run at high speed for extended periods. In a way engine oil also helps to cool the engine down. As a result of the small volume of oil in our scooters I think the oil and other components will heat up a lot more at very high RPM’s.
Having said that - I actually prefer forced air cooled engines like on our scooters. With global warming in mind - I am not convinced that all liquid cooled engines are designed to handle the higher temperatures we get these days. At least our air cooled engines will not end up having blown head gaskets during possible overheating problems - compared to liquid cooled engines.
As far as I know only air cooled trucks like Magirus Deutz have been used in the Sahara desert in Africa at one stage. To my understanding this was due to the fact that all trucks with water cooled engines used to have overheating problems.
So I think if we just ride at moderate speed with our scooters when it’s really hot, our air cooled engines will not overheat.
99
Technical | How To / Re: Air cooled scooters, cooling?
« on: November 12, 2020, 03:48:39 PM »............. Just wondering if there's a oil cooler for a non-pressurized oil system?
Yes, aftermarket oil cooler adaptors are available - it has been discussed elsewhere at this forum some time ago. The adaptors mount to the big oil drain plugs on our scooters.
I think using those adaptors might not be a good idea. It looks like the adaptors get mounted at the suction side of the oil pumps. This means the oil needs to be sucked from the oil sump, through both cooler hoses, and through the oil cooler before it reaches the suction side of the oil pump.
I do not trust a systym like that, I think oil coolers should always be mounted on the outlet side of oil pumps - like on all vehicles, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, etc. out there.
I think specially at higher RPM’s the oil pump on a scooter with a cooler system on the suction side of the oil pump might battle to get enough oil to feed oil to other components properly.
Having said that - when I did a Google search to see what the oil cooler adaptors look like, I noticed that at least one seller advised prospective buyers to install a “high flow” oil
pump at the same time when the buyers want to install the oil cooler adaptors.
I think there is a bery good reason behind the sellers advice - an ordinary oil pump will most probably battle to suck sufficiant oil at high engine RPM’s.
The aftermarket high flow oil pumps have wider gears - so I think it should ensure better oil suction through the adaptor, hoses, and oil cooler before the oil get sucked into the oil pump.
100
LIKE 200i / Re: Compression test
« on: November 12, 2020, 04:24:24 AM »Monkeybongos@
Concerning magnet within oil plug. Since l got a motorwrecked 125 Like in my hands l dismantled the wrecked motor. Saw there the oil flowing direction.
Its down from oil pump trough the mesh circulated back to lubricate.
I am more than convinced oil flow is actually the other way round - from the oil sump, through the mesh, sucked in by the oil pump and circulated to different parts of the engine.
That’s how all oil pumps work.
101
Agility 125 / Re: scooter sputtered this morning and then died.
« on: November 09, 2020, 10:41:24 AM »
The PAIR system on my Agility is still in place so I do not know what the valve noise would be like when the system gets removed. Valve clearance gaps on my Agility always get set at .12 mm.
At almost 26 000km the engine still runs perfectly.
P.S. Regarding CDI’s - I think the best investment a scooter owner can ever do on a scooter is to buy a proper Multimeter. There are plenty Yotube videos available to show how different scooter components can be tested with a Multimeter.
I am not sure whether you have one - therefore my comments.
At almost 26 000km the engine still runs perfectly.
P.S. Regarding CDI’s - I think the best investment a scooter owner can ever do on a scooter is to buy a proper Multimeter. There are plenty Yotube videos available to show how different scooter components can be tested with a Multimeter.
I am not sure whether you have one - therefore my comments.
102
Agility 125 / Re: valve clearance question
« on: November 09, 2020, 10:31:16 AM »
.12mm is the correct setting.
.04 or .05mm is too small - it would require valve clearance checks too often. Such a small gap clearance hardly leave any room for a mistake during valve clearance adjustments. I would never advice anyone without proper knowledge or experience to use such small clearances.
.04 or .05mm is too small - it would require valve clearance checks too often. Such a small gap clearance hardly leave any room for a mistake during valve clearance adjustments. I would never advice anyone without proper knowledge or experience to use such small clearances.
103
Agility 125 / Re: scooter sputtered this morning and then died.
« on: November 07, 2020, 07:13:32 AM »update on progress as of 11/4/2020
So I ordered this CDI from amazon and it arrived today in the mail.
WFLNHB Ignition Coil + DC CDI Fit for Kymco, SYM, Vento Scooter GY6 Engine Parts
Installed it and tried to check for Spark when all of the sudden I herd a popping sound coming from the CDI, Stopped immitiantly and found that the CDI was Hot to the touch. This CDI upon further inspection looked similar to an AC one. My guess is the seller on amazon is selling counterfeit CDI's that are marketed for DC scooters.
Defiantly will be returning this POJ. Bit the bullet and ordered a New OEM Kymco CDI as well as A preformance CDI like the one I had before. If you see this product anywhere make sure to avoid purchasing it.
I forgot to mention - the AC CDI’s are smaller than DC CDI’s. If that was an AC CDI chances are about Zero that the engine would start.
In your latest post you mentioned that you got the engine running with another CDI again.
Maybe you should just do an ordinary Voltage test at the battery at idling and then at higher engine speed as well.
I think there is a possibility that a CDI can get cooked if the Voltage output is too high at the Voltage Regulator.
104
Agility 125 / Re: scooter sputtered this morning and then died.
« on: November 05, 2020, 05:04:09 AM »
I could be wrong but I think something else is causing your CDI problems. Maybe you should remove the Voltage Regulator , have a close look at it and do a test on it with a Multimeter. There are Youtube videos which shows how it can be tested.
105
Agility 125 / Re: scooter sputtered this morning and then died.
« on: November 01, 2020, 01:28:22 PM »
Okay, you have an electrical problem.
This is what I would do:
1. Have a close look at the fuse connections. The connections or fuses could be corroded, or the the fuses could be sitting slightly loose inside the connections.
2. Do a resistance test on the spark plug cable to see if the wire is not broken.
3. Make sure the spark plug Cap is properly connected to the cable, and make sure the other end of the cable is properly connected to the Coil.
4. Hook the Battery to a Battery Charger, and make sure the battery is fully charged.
You mentioned the battery is new - but that does not mean the battery is fully charged or the battery is not faulty. Hardly any battery that comes off a shelve is fully charged - you actually need to hook it to a charger to get it fully charged.
This is very important on our scooters with DC CDI's - the CDI's on our scooters need an almost fully charged battery to generate a proper spark at the Spark Plug. It is important to understand that on our scooters with DC CDI's the Battery itself actually generates the spark at the Spark Plug (Capacitors at the inside of the CDI as well as the Coil just boost power to give a powerful spark at the Spark Plug).
So the weaker the Voltage at the Battery - the weaker the spark at the spark plug will be.
Apart from charging the battery, the Stator on our scooters only triggers the CDI to release power to the Spark Plug.
If the battery is fully charged and the scooter still does not start, you can do the following:
1. Unplug the 2 pin plug at the CDI.
The two pin plug only has one wire - the thin wire on that plug actually feeds power from the Battery to the Spark Plug (via the Capacitors in the CDI, the coil, and spark plug Cable).
So while the two pin plug has been unplugged, you need to do a Voltage test at the single wire on the loose plug.
With Ignition Switch in "on" position and the Negative wire on the Multi meter linked to (-) on the Battery, you should get between 12 -13 Volt reading at the connection on the plug. (The same Voltage reading when you do a direct Voltage test on the Battery).
Then
With the two pin plug still unplugged, somebody need to press the Starter Button to swing the engine.
While the engine is swinging, you need to do a Voltage Test at the single wire on the loose plug.
You need to get a voltage reading of at least 9.65 Volts on the loose wire - otherwise you will get an improper spark at the Spark Plug, and therefore starting problems.
If the Battery was fully charged but the Voltage at the loose wire on the plug was lower than 9.6 Volts, it means you have a voltage drop in the power line elsewhere before the Plug, or the new battery might be faulty.
New batteries are not faulty that often - but in our country it happens fairly often.
You should get a proper load test done on the battery before you buy another battery.
If everything looks okay and the scooter still does not start - you could try a new Voltage Regulator.
I do not know how it actually works, but some time ago somebody on a forum elsewhere mentioned that a starting problem on his scooter was solved by replacing the Voltage Regulator.
Not so long ago somebody on this forum also could not solve a starting problem - I just can't remember his name or scooter model.
I mentioned the guy who solved his problem with a Voltage Regulator, the guy on this forum installed a new Voltage Regulator - and his problem was solved.
I hope this helps.
This is what I would do:
1. Have a close look at the fuse connections. The connections or fuses could be corroded, or the the fuses could be sitting slightly loose inside the connections.
2. Do a resistance test on the spark plug cable to see if the wire is not broken.
3. Make sure the spark plug Cap is properly connected to the cable, and make sure the other end of the cable is properly connected to the Coil.
4. Hook the Battery to a Battery Charger, and make sure the battery is fully charged.
You mentioned the battery is new - but that does not mean the battery is fully charged or the battery is not faulty. Hardly any battery that comes off a shelve is fully charged - you actually need to hook it to a charger to get it fully charged.
This is very important on our scooters with DC CDI's - the CDI's on our scooters need an almost fully charged battery to generate a proper spark at the Spark Plug. It is important to understand that on our scooters with DC CDI's the Battery itself actually generates the spark at the Spark Plug (Capacitors at the inside of the CDI as well as the Coil just boost power to give a powerful spark at the Spark Plug).
So the weaker the Voltage at the Battery - the weaker the spark at the spark plug will be.
Apart from charging the battery, the Stator on our scooters only triggers the CDI to release power to the Spark Plug.
If the battery is fully charged and the scooter still does not start, you can do the following:
1. Unplug the 2 pin plug at the CDI.
The two pin plug only has one wire - the thin wire on that plug actually feeds power from the Battery to the Spark Plug (via the Capacitors in the CDI, the coil, and spark plug Cable).
So while the two pin plug has been unplugged, you need to do a Voltage test at the single wire on the loose plug.
With Ignition Switch in "on" position and the Negative wire on the Multi meter linked to (-) on the Battery, you should get between 12 -13 Volt reading at the connection on the plug. (The same Voltage reading when you do a direct Voltage test on the Battery).
Then
With the two pin plug still unplugged, somebody need to press the Starter Button to swing the engine.
While the engine is swinging, you need to do a Voltage Test at the single wire on the loose plug.
You need to get a voltage reading of at least 9.65 Volts on the loose wire - otherwise you will get an improper spark at the Spark Plug, and therefore starting problems.
If the Battery was fully charged but the Voltage at the loose wire on the plug was lower than 9.6 Volts, it means you have a voltage drop in the power line elsewhere before the Plug, or the new battery might be faulty.
New batteries are not faulty that often - but in our country it happens fairly often.
You should get a proper load test done on the battery before you buy another battery.
If everything looks okay and the scooter still does not start - you could try a new Voltage Regulator.
I do not know how it actually works, but some time ago somebody on a forum elsewhere mentioned that a starting problem on his scooter was solved by replacing the Voltage Regulator.
Not so long ago somebody on this forum also could not solve a starting problem - I just can't remember his name or scooter model.
I mentioned the guy who solved his problem with a Voltage Regulator, the guy on this forum installed a new Voltage Regulator - and his problem was solved.
I hope this helps.