KymcoForum.com

R.I.P. Kymco.
It was the regulator. I still don't understand the behavior - when being checked calm nothing was suspicious, it kept an innocent mask. Disconnected from baterry the resistence of it as well as of wires coming in was infinite. That's probably bcs of semiconductors inside why it could open a short-circuit when the key was on and 1) I was either pressing the start button or 2) trying to start by connecting directly the flow to the starter motor (the fuse blown in both cases) .
When I put a wire instead of the fuse and try to start:  The red wire between the battery and the regulator was "boiled", among other victims seem to be the start button (checked by multimeter after the "boiling" test) and maybe also the isolation of some wires neighbouring the red one.
FED UP, I sold Kymco for a few "bucks" (euros here in France), there's no doubt it was accursed with a daemon inside, I hope I'll forget is ASAP.

Epitaph:  Here in France it was not easy to find the right parts for this model. Not sure whether it's Kymco in general or only this model, but IMO it's better to pay more and buy a moto for which it's not such a loooong-time-consuming-process to find and order a piece, not to be full of doubts whether it will really fit that, and also to have a moto with a good documentation.

I know it's impossible to resolve such issue remotely, so thank you very much Karl for your help, I will continue and I will keep you in touch. Merry Xmas!

I thought we understand each other when talking about the fuse on the red wire. Anyway, sequence for the red wire on the diagram is: battery, fuse, regulator, key switch, clock on dashboard, break switches, (stop light bulb), start relay, start button, (the rest I'm not sure but it should be the end ... )

I disconnected the stop bulb, thus the only candidate is ... the start button ( ? ? ? )
Tell me if I'm right please:
From left: If it was grounded between the fuse and the start button, the fuse would blow without starting:
1) whenever the battery is connected (if it's between the fuse and break switches) , or
2) whenever the battery is connected and I press the break switch (if it's between break switches and the start button, i.e. also start relay is covered by this case)

It might also explain the case, when I was testing the current going to the start relay with start motor disconnected (and when there was the 10A before I changed it to 15A..) - in such case the fuse was blown after I pressed the button several times. Because if the start button is grounded after the start relay, the start relay receives the current correctly.

Also depends on the wiring after the start button which I don't understand on the diagram - it might be grounded after the start button in fact, depends where the
wire goes. It could be checked by multimeter I hope.

Am I right or do I get crazy completely?

Mira

Yes Karl, you were right when you didn't believe that the 200ohm trick solved the issue

I followed today your instructions from "Reply #28 on: November 07, 2015, 04:13:19 PM", and checked the ground both from the red fuse and the start relay connector with other wires disconnected: Resistence of both is infinite. Start relay has 4ohm between terminals, and between both teminals and ground the resistence is infinite.

My note (not sure about its significance):  When I try to start it, the fuse is always blown after 1 bang, i.e. 1 time  the current could go from the battery through the brake switch and the button to the start relay, opened the flow to the start motor, spun one time the engine and the stator sent a signal to fire the spark.
Does it mean that the current is grounded AFTER the spark is fired? Or at least that it's rather a wire going from stator to spark plug (through CDI) that is grounded?

Thank you in advance

Mira

Google has given me: "It's also possible that there is a problem with the carburetor and if so you may need to remove it and clean it out. If the scooter has been sitting for a few months with gas in the carburetor, the gas may have evaporated and left a sticky "gum" behind that will prevent the carburetor from working properly and which must be removed."

Do you agree with that? Could it be the case?
Another thing is that the regulator is currently disconnected, but it shouldn't have impact on starting, no?

I haven't done any test of valve, anyway the scooter was starting OK few months ago, there was just a "small problem" with electricity, it was not recharging the battery...
And now, after I've checked all the electricity, replaced some components, it doesn't start... Can it be sth like overfull because of many attempts to start it? Something like too much fuel sucked in the engine?
I tried today to check the tube from fuel tank to the engine over carburator, if it cannot be clogged, but it seems to be ok, at least the filder filter just below the tank.

Trying to inspect the CDI, but it seems to be IMPOSSIBLE on Agility In the manual, the CDI inspection table is missing. According to eshops, the CDI on Kymco model Like is the same, thus I tried to find manual of Like on web - finally I have found one, but the CDI wire description contains errors and the table doesn't seem to be the right one. (unbelievable that a company can officially publish such 'document' ..)
Anyway, when I put the multimeter on connectors of the ignotion coil and I crank the motor (key is on), there's no input current. Looking at the wiring schema, it might be caused either by CDI or the key switch box (?)

Hello Karl!
Firstly I don't understand why I don't receive any more "Topic reply" when you add a new message to this thread :|

As for the Paris - thank you for your pray and your honest humanity, I don't live in Paris thus I was "only" watching the tragedy in media..   Onceinalife was lucky as well I hope.

As for the scooter - I was waiting until wednesday for the ordered fuses 15A (I ordered also spark plug) , today I had some time to test it.
Current status: It still doesn't start Even though I can hear the starter turning the engine - like there was not a spark. I checked the voltage going from the pulser coil, the values are low (0.0x V instead of 0.x V ) but as I searched on google it seems that it's only because I haven't got a special "peak volt-meter".. (?) I checked also the high voltage ignition coil before the spark plug - its resistence is correct. Now checking the manual, I should also check the voltage going from CDI to the high voltage coil. Battery is already almost below 12V, few last attempts with the start button remaining I think, then only mechanical crank..

Not too many things remain to check, I'm loosing my last hopes :/