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There might be a breather hose from the transmission to the air box, make sure it's not leaking which could let water in.

This is definitely an oversight by Kymco. They have been putting the air intake at the front for years, why did they change it.

I've also noticed there isn't a fender or mud guard that covers the top of the actual rear wheel, which should sit very close to the tyre surface. See the photo attached for the 2nd gen Kymco Dowtown 350i, which has this design to stop water being splashed forward and a hidden air intake on the top left of the air box cover to prevent water ingestion.

I think this will be an ongoing problem unless you are willing to modify the airbox (cover only) yourself. Maybe block off the rear vents, drill some extra drain holes and cut an intake in the front. This may affect warranty but simply replace the cover with an original one when required.

Tested like this? Screenshot from the service manual. If it's truly faulty the bike won't run.

Might be easier just to replace the whole ignition coil.

Looks like they changed the design from the more common sliders on the ramp plate to pins which would slide inside the cylindrical metal holes (and bushings) on the variator.

Also your photo shows a roller with a very worn flat spot, more than enough reason to replace the rollers soon. They can get stuck and cause all kinds of issues.

This is normal and indicates that the ABS is working.

If the light stays on when riding then there is a fault, most commonly the wheel speed sensor and rarely the ABS module.

I get my new genuine parts from https://www.bike-parts-kymco.uk/kymco-motorcycle. The deliver from the Netherlands which is 2-3 weeks.

You might also have luck locally on eBay or Gumtree or Facebook marketplace, there could be a wrecking Downtown somewhere, just ask the sellers. I've been lucky a few times for used parts and it saved me hundreds.

Hola amigos!

Just wanted to post an update on my issue. Good news; it seems to be resolved!, I have been using the generic 20 amp rectifier and battery is charging without issues, so that's good!

Bad news; new problem appeared and I'm not sure what it is. When I was putting everything back together I plugged my underseat led light and it didn't worked, the cables were really hot and I unplugged it, I think the light was shorted.

Just after that, the met-in red light from the dashboard stopped working and the check engine light.. is not on, it's more like slightly illuminated.. it gets a bit more stronger when accelerating, it doesn't turn on completely, it is just a very dim yellow light only noticeable during nighttime, but I think something is not working ok there.. also I noticed that my blinkers seem to varies their speed with the engine idle, they get faster when I accelerate.

I think I might have introduced some kind of electrical problem, but hey, the battery is charging perfectly!!

Thanks for your help guys!!

I think the underseat light is shorted, maybe a pinched wire during installation.

Hard to say but the first step is to measure the voltage output of the regulator. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery at idle and acceleration, should not be more than 14.5V.

Voltages too high or low can cause weird issues.