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Getting ready to do the valve check on my LIKE200i ...and noticed something...
We know how to adjust our scooter's valves - but scooters often require a "how-to" just to get to them!
The steps followed to get through the plastics to the valve cover. Where you turn the engine, etc.? (on the left side for my Piaggio, the right for a LIKE200i)
I didn't see a video on youtube for the LIKE150i.

I think they are to be checked every 3,000 miles?

here's an opportunity for a LIKE150i owner to launch a film career~!

Stig

You're confusing me!  This is your posting on the forum but I don't see the link to the YouTube video.  I thought you were guiding us to the video but I guess you are asking the forum members if they know of a Youtube to visually explain how to remove the body panels and do the valve adjustment.  Right?

I want to use the KYMCO scooter to charge an external scooter battery.  With the external battery, I could use an inverter to power small 110 VAC devices in an emergency. My thought was to turn off the headlight during the charging operation to lighten the load on the alternator.  (There is no ON/OFF switch for the headlamp.) Once removed, I expected either the 10 A or 15 A to kill the headlight or all of the lights while the remaining fuse would run the engine.  Unfortunately, what I found was that removal of the 10 A fuse killed everything.  Then, to my astonishment, I found out that removal of only the 15 A fuse also killed everything except, I believe, the fuel pump.  My plan is ruined!

I could put a kill switch in the glove compartment or under the seat, but that involves the disassembly of plexiglass panels and finding the appropriate wire in a wiring harness.  I would be satisfied with turning off only the front headlight and letting the other lights function.

In my old age, I seem to have forgotten the days when I traced electrons through a heavy fixed military radar set in the Air Force.

During the charge operation with a fully charged scooter battery and a discharged external battery, I plan to attach the batteries together without running the scooter.  After waiting some time for the two batteries to equalize, I would start the scooter and allow both batteries to be recharged. 

Does anyone know why removing either of the two fuses, essentially kills all electrical functions?  And, does anyone have a suggestion on how they would proceed with this project?  Thanks.

Thanks for the replies.  The tire stem purchased must be compatible with the KYMCO wheel.  A KYMCO dealer sold me a WPS 85-044A 90 degree tire stem (see the picture). This Western Powersports item appears to be manufactured by Fire Power and is said to be for wheels with a .453 inch or .625 inch valve stem hole.  OK - then any stem used in the Like 200i must be compatible with this spec.  Right?  Therefore, the contention from a parts manager that most all valve stems for motorcycles are acceptable must be false.  So, what size hole does the KYMCO wheel actually have, .453" or .650"?  (And how can it fit two different size holes?)   The Cyclepedia Service Manual doesn't provide information on this issue.  Note that when converted to metric, the holes are 11.5 mm and 15.875 mm - rather strange metric sizes.  I am being cautious because a non-KYMCO dealership will be doing the install and they won't take any responsibility for ensuring the proper tire stems are installed.

Also, has anyone used tire balancing beads?  For a person that doesn't push the scooter too hard, I assume it would provide limited value.

Since the air filter has never been removed, the pre-filter was installed by KYMCO.  It measures 170 mm X 73 mm X 11 mm thick foam.   And since it was grey I couldn't tell just how dirty it was while washing it in soapy water.  (The odometer has 8,500 miles on it.)  There are little barbs on this air filter and the pre-filter has several little holes to clip it onto the filter. Pulling it off tends to rip the foam just enough so that I had to tape it back on.  The filter itself had a small slightly darkened area but it was almost like new.  I agree, this filter doesn't get dirty!  I would love to work in a little foam oil into the pre-filter (like lawn mowers sometimes use) but even a little oil on the paper element would not be a good thing.

Since I removed the air intake restriction, I'll report back if I notice any changes to noise, performance or fuel economy.  The plastic piece was held in position by friction and a drop of RTV; it can be re-inserted.

The tip of the intake tube seems to just dangle about an inch from the front grill-work of the scooter.  If it was somehow clipped into something, it could face directly forward and perhaps increase the ram effect of fast moving air into the engine.  I suspect there would not, however, be a measurable difference in performance.

The other day I felt it was time to purchase a new filter for my scooter.  I noticed that a screw was missing from the filter mount.  The bolt appears to be an M5 X 1.50 x 20.  However, as seen from the attached picture, the thread size is not 1.50.  In fact, it doesn't match any common size thread.  Nor does it appear to have a consistent thread pattern.  I can only guess that it is some type of a self-taping screw.  I tried to order the part from the KYMCO dealer but the parts person said KYMCO adds a $20 handling fee to a $2 part.  After being directed to a local Lowe's store, I confirmed that they had nothing that would be identical.  (As a side note, the KYMCO dealer didn't seem to believe me that all scooter parts are metric with the possible exception of the mirror mounts.)

Comments?  As is sometimes the case, one missing screw will not let the air filter fall off.  Oh, well, . . .

By the way, the new $29.81 air filter comes with a P/N 17211-LGR5-E10 but doesn't come with a pre-filter (as does the OEM unit) and the parts listing doesn't show an available pre-filter.

These appear to be a hard aluminum alloy.  I don't see how they would "clink" when "crushed."  I actually haven't used them yet but at least they have the required 8 mm interior diameter.  I will still talk to a Toyota parts guy when I get to a Toyota dealership.

The idea of an oil cooler is interesting.  The filter in an oil cooler is even more interesting!  I am too cheap to pay $20 for an oil analysis on my scooter when an regular oil change would be so less expensive.  But I did have a car with annual oil analysis that safely went 170,000 miles and 9 1/2 years without an oil change!  Sadly, the lack of oil filtration changes the game for a small engine.