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Define "pretty low miles" please.

Kick starting large displacement bikes is close to impossible and most large bikes after World war II do not have kick start.

Beg to differ. H-D's had them as late as '84.

Since I worked in the automotive electrical field for several years here's a subject that I can address with some authority.

First, let's discuss the function of the battery in any vehicle. It has only one purpose. To provide sufficient energy to start the vehicle! (Okay, before someone calls me on it, in modern vehicles it retains the memory in the computer. The amount of current needed for this task is so minuet that we can ignore it.) Once the vehicle is running the battery should just be sitting there getting recharged by the current left over from the tasks of operating the machine. All of the lights, the horn, the radio, the cell phone recharger, the nav system etc. should be powered by the charging system. Unfortunately, particularly on scooters the charging system has very little left for recharging the battery. If you've accessorized your scoot you may have problems. I once had a customer who complained that the battery kept dying in his car. The reason? He had installed a super whizzbang stereo with two humongous amplifiers in the trunk that drew, by themselves 105 amps against a 90 amp alternator.

There are several things that affect battery life. The primary one is weather. Vehicle batteries do not like extremes, hot or cold. Another is how it's used. If you take only short trips, 20 minutes or less you may not be fully recharging your battery before asking it to do it's job (i.e. start your scoot) again.

Another factor is maintenance. Are the terminals clean, properly fitted and tight? What about any other connections in the charging system? Is the water/acid level where it should be? When topping the battery up do you use distilled water only?

Side note:
 INITIAL CHARGING PROCEDURE:  Once the electrolyte is in your battery and the battery caps are hand tightened, you should then charge your battery with a low-amperage battery charger.  We recommend that a battery should never be charged at amperage greater than 10% of the amp-hour rating of the battery.  For example, if you have a 10 amp-hour battery, a 1 amp battery charge is recommended.  A 5 amp-hour battery should be charged at a .5 amp rate.   You should allow approximately 10-12 hours to fully charge your battery. We also suggest using a charger that cuts off when your battery is fully charged.

Source: http://www.ebatteriestogo.com/Activation_Charging_Procedure.htm

...explain to me a lil more about the higher revs....we all need that on these A50s...

 

I knew this question was coming. The key word is "possible". Changing the gap will not in itself give you more RPM's. Basically, the reason for this is that it takes less voltage jump a short gap than a long one. The system doesn't need as much time to build up sufficient voltage to fire the plug.

A word of warning about setting the gap wide. Since the electrodes erode with use the gap gets wider over time which may cause mis-fires. Since I'm a "less work is better" kinda guy I always set the gap on the short side of the spec.

First drawback that comes to mind is weight. The darn things are heavy!

An oldie but a goody. Water vapor injection does a great job of cleaning carbon out of an egine and keeping it clean.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Water-Vapor-Injection-Increases-MPG-And-Horsepower&id=1099990

http://blizzard.rwic.und.edu/~nordlie/water_injection/novak/

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/351852/power_efficiency_for_your_cars_engine.html?cat=27

Is it possible? Yes! However, before going there you might want to do a little research. I suggest you start here:

http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel2.html