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Messages - Dabby-D

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1
Super 8 / Re: In need of some assistance for my Super 8 50cc 2 stroke
« on: September 15, 2019, 04:58:51 PM »
The most restricted thing on a 2t super 8 is the exhaust pipe. replacing it with a racing one, swapping the variator and the springs in the transmission will help you get there. derestricting the exhaust will require you to have jets compatible with your carburetor to adjust the new intake and exhaust. its good to replace the reeds with carbon fiber ones to avoid a break down as well at this point. ditch the air filter for an after market one and just dial that carb in. something handy that i picked up was a naraku kymco to minerelli adapter which allows me to use more carburetor styles and take the stock intake past 20mm to about 30mm. more air, more gas, more exhaust means speed and decreased fuel effeciency. one thing I did for my Super 9 was remove the oil pump and run it on premix to have perfect mixture instead of ever guessing it due to upgrades.

2
Super 9 / Re: Watercool converstion
« on: September 03, 2017, 06:52:37 AM »
Wonder if you could just keep the air cooling and get an external 12v waterpump and water cooled cylinder head. They are sometimes a bit more annoying to work on then air cooled, I wont lie. I have had to learn to tune as i go for the first time build and only have a few more parts til i max out my performance and am not currently running due to problems. coolants expensive too.

3
Super 9 / Re: Project: Drug War
« on: July 27, 2017, 05:41:26 PM »
I finally stripped this bike down some more, I removed the side vents behind the tool box to allow Air circulation to the engine bay, allow more space for wrenching and lighten the frame. I also removed the oil pump after it F'd my piston ring up, I removed the oil reservoir as well to lighten the bike and make field stripping easier. DONT USE OIL PUMPS ON BIG BORE KITS!! I removed the license plate splashguard,  hard wired all the turn signals to work where they were intended to and added LED bulbs all the way around. Next on the list will be a paint job, Green with purple highlights. 

4
Super 9 / Re: Stall out dead
« on: July 27, 2017, 05:11:08 PM »
I learned the hard way that the oil pumps can't keep up with big bore kits. What ended up happening is that the lean condition made the idle go HAM as the piston ring and piston were getting scrapped on the top and bottom, the spark plug ate sh** and the platinum pin on the plug flew out with the loss of compression that turned vacuum. it bounced to the top and grinded the piston, then went to the bottom, scraped again before getting exhausted out. It chipped the Nikel plating slightly between the exhaust port, but that seems an acceptable spot. The ring got melted onto the piston and i had to remove it with a metal wire around the circumference. the compression went to nothing and resetting the piston ring created 30psi, I'm re-sanding the piston channels to try again for more compression, adding a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder before retesting gave me 100psi. I may have to break down and order a new piston ring, but the learning process is priceless. I like to work on things, so i don't mind, besides the speed improvements are so worth it. I removed the oil pump and blocked it off, I finally graduated to premixing at the pump so i can blap to people about how cool my ride is now and shock all the street bikes that think I'll be slow. Sounding like a leaf blower finally gets car tards off their damn phones to see me. LOVE IT, even went to the beach to find someone else's GF getting real comfy on my bike  ::)  ;D If your stalling, make sure, its not a lean condition like mine, or your going to have internal damage and be pissed. Oil pumps suck, I think it would take an exhaust testing module to even make sure your at the right mix.

5
Super 9 / Re: Looking for advice on Kymco Super 9
« on: July 27, 2017, 04:23:08 PM »
You can test your choke switch by testing for 12v current at the CDI connector pin. Disconnect the CDI and test the Black wire w/ blue stripe. While the switch is in the on position you should have 12v, with the switch in the off position you should have nothing. The starter relay should make a clicking sound whether its working or not but, you either get current past it or not, disconnect the starter positive wire and test the relay for sending 12v or take the starter out see if it spins. I actually had this problem as well and broke my kickstarter, so I swapped out the starter from a chinese 139qmb engine after ordering something online that didn't work. amazingly the kickstart spindle, starter and everything fit right into my S9 from my donor bike.

6
Super 9 / Re: Stall out dead
« on: July 13, 2017, 07:07:07 AM »
What carburetor size and main jet are you using? The manual chokes are much more reliable, the ones ON the carb vs with the cable leading off the carburetor are better. The Auto-choke will usually only make the starting difficult but you should be able to start it with the throttle open a bit. It will soot out your engine a bit too. The sounds of your problem sound like a carburetor issue, throttle control screw out of wack or the jetting.

7
Super 9 / Re: CDI compatibility
« on: July 13, 2017, 06:58:01 AM »
The CDI issue was resolved. (http://www.ebay.com/usr/partsgalore-ca?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) Parts-Galore.ca has the correct CDI module for the wiring I described earlier in this thread and i confirmed that it is unrestricted as well.

Oldmanmoto: Your issue sounds like a carburetor issue really. There is a screw that usually has a spring on it that if turned will keep the carb open so you dont have to keep giving it more throttle to keep it alive, Its called the idle control screw. On the carburetor there's an automatic electric choke, after 5-10 mins the choke will warm up and thats when you want to adjust and tune the screw. Check to make sure its a NO SPARK issue by grounding the sparkplug before continuing to CDI. Let me know how it goes

8
Super 9 / Re: Project: Drug War
« on: July 03, 2017, 05:25:55 AM »
Not sure if i mentioned this before but this Scoot has the RECALLED SH10B motor in it which I feel increases its value a bit. I plan to get the upper shock mount reinforced and replace all engine mount bushings but I will Never give up my Liquid Cooling for an Air Cooled model. Even if someone stole my bike and tried to sell just the motor, I think i would find out since its rare, and I may possibly have a better warranty then your 2018 yamaha Zuma, having an infinite power-train warranty :)

9
Super 9 / Re: Project: Drug War
« on: July 03, 2017, 05:17:06 AM »
I started with the Transmission: replacing the variator, and clutch to malossi MHR w/white springs. My next stage was to upgrade the exhaust, I used a technigas Next-R. I then, upgraded the entire electric system that matters: Battery, stator, regulator, CDI, Coil, and plug. I made sure the electric starter works, but am looking for a Hi-Torque performance starter. With those things in place, I upgraded to an Airsal 73.8cc Cylinder and wrapped my exhaust pipe to minimize heat precipitation in the engine. I had some trouble with the original gaskets and suffered alot of leaks before getting pissed and getting some gasket compound which solved my troubles quickly. My side marker lights became my turn signals in the front and I wrapped them, and the headlight in Purple Chameleon tint. The rear light cover with clear lenses has been ordered and will get the same treatment with relocation. All the bulbs are converted to LED high output 1057 and 1157's and the headlight is now a 36w 6k lumens H8 motorcycle LED.

10
Super 9 / Project: Drug War
« on: July 03, 2017, 03:32:15 AM »
So I started this project to produce a race quality US model S9 while still maintaining a small level of street dignity (Barely-Legal). The main ideas that I have that are considerably different by manufacturer designs and utilizing what is available in carburetor, rotor, and water-pump technology to set myself apart while trying to achieve a bit more ponies then the other guys. So using a multi-jet-nozzle Yoshimura 24mm carburetor that uses carburetor misting nozzles with holes in the needle allowing more flow versus the pin style with the limited flow from one hole. The difference in the electrical is to maintain my Accessories and switches while still opting for a racing inner rotor setup. Drag occurs in this system by use of the 12v power and also from the water pump attached to the crank. By setting up an Artek K2 digital inner rotor w/light I will maintain the 12v accessories. I plan to remove the manual water-pump and replace it with a 12v water pump to reduce physical drag and apply it to digital drag, which can be adjusted a bit easier, Thus being my concept for the advantage. I also want to add additional flow coolers instead of just looping my coolant lines to try and add additional safeties for overheating issues, I want to really keep this setup cool for longer travels.

Engine

Cylinder: 73.8cc (T6) Airsal Aluminum sport cylinder
Intake Manifold: Naraku spacer to minerelli & 24mm/32mm intake manifold
Reeds: (soon) Malossi
Carburator: Dellorto PHGB AS 19mm w/100-Main
Air Filter: Malossi E5 38mm red air filter w/ chrome weather guard
Water pump: (soon) Naraku 12v water pump
Exhaust: Technigas Next-R
Crank: Stock
Oil pump: Stock


Ignition

Battery: Chrome-Pro I-gel YTX5L-BS w/ LED self test indicator
Stator: (Soon) Artek K2 digital inner rotor w/light
Coil: Naraku V.2 Hi Output Racing coil
Spark Plug: NGK Platinum B8EGV spark plug
CDI:  Searching for compatible unrestricted unit.

Transmission
Variator: Malossi multivar w/9g rollers
Clutch: Malossi Delta MHR w/white springs (soon) Stage6 R/T
Torque driver: (soon) Stage6
Clutch bell: (soon) Stage6 R/T 17009
Contra spring: White springs (sport)
Gear-up: Stock (soon) Fabrication
Belt: Malossi MHR X-Kevlar

Suspension

Tires: Maxxis Maxx Daddy 130/70/12 M6024 Dirt Tires
Front Forks: (soon) Fastace AE01RCP adjustable
Rear shock/s: (soon) Racingbros bazooka 4.0

Style
Headlights: Chemeleon purple-chrome headlight tint
Radiator: red mesh for grill
Handlebar Stem: (soon) Str8-TNT 
Handlebars: (soon) Downhill bars
Handlebar pad: (soon) Stage6
Exhaust: Red Insulation Wrap

11
Super 9 / Re: CDI compatibility
« on: July 03, 2017, 03:07:05 AM »
chaz35: Everything worked as is: New: Battery, Stator, Racing coil, Plug, regulator, exhaust wrap to keep low temps and protect the wires from melting.  It all worked and ran with the OEM CDI module for 30 mins.
                             
-Other things New: Airsal Cylinder, Exhaust, carburator, air filter, and worked and ran.

To Mr. Paul: An OEM CDI can range from $120-175 and will limit the performance of my aftermarket cylinder to compromise the the CDI unit through over-revving. To find a performance one would be wise in my situation.

Additional notes: I had problems with this CDI after my toolbox+lid blew off my scooter in a storm, The CDI unit got severely rained on, it being Washington state where I'm from. I tried a Naraku NK390.04 DC CDI which was recommended. In fact my Regulator is Naraku, with my OEM as a spare. DIDNT WORK. I just ordered one from ebay which had the correct information with a picture diagram of the correct wiring. Im praying.... I thought about the fact that the engine is built off the AF18 and looked through CDI's for the ZX50 and DIO's which resulted in what they termed "Kymco Redifined" whatever that means. Most the information i seen on them i think was AC cause they had a 5th wire to my 4. On amazon I noted the seller for a DIO unrestricted "DC" CDI as compatible with the Super 9 (not specific which model even though there is only DC on the LC models like mine). I noted as well that one person said they would go with a MSD 4217 single cylinder programmable ignition but didnt see the aftermath results. That unit costs $375!! Anyways heres some pics and info:

12
Super 9 / Re: CDI compatibility
« on: July 02, 2017, 05:52:08 PM »
Found a helpful link that breaks the CDI wiring systems down.

http://www.jr-richscooterdoc.com/Help_electrical_explained.pdf

I may have to do some more modifying and rewiring, but Im learning alot.

13
Super 9 / Re: CDI compatibility
« on: July 01, 2017, 11:27:34 PM »
I was thinking the same thing and never got anything to happen with the replacement CDI , the old CDI fired right up out of nowhere and then 30 mins into a ride it dies and never starts again. If it could run with the old CDI, i guess that i eliminated the incompatibility problem. I gotta say the performance was a bit rough, the light and dark green wires were disconnected at the time. Everything has normal ohms and wattage at the connectors, and i have a spare wiring harness if there was a real electrical concern. I dont feel like i gotta take it that far though.

14
Super 9 / CDI compatibility
« on: July 01, 2017, 06:29:42 PM »
So my CDI is failing, sometimes acting intermittent and most the time doing nothing. I have a 2005 S9 w/ SH10B motor and DC Suitai D418 CDI and tried replacing it with the Naraku NK390.04 thats suggested on all the websites, Nothing. I Have documented the correct signal from my Stator, but replaced it anyways. I got a spare pretty much cause they both read the same and work. the regulator is working because i have lighting. Everything is new, and my old cdi worked for just a little and then cut out on me on the road, the new one nothing, so the problem is clear. I could provide feedback with numbers, but im a gear head, not a nerd haha. Anyways, anybody know a good CDI that works for a 2005 S9 w/ SH10B (the recalled motor) There was no way i was turning it over for an air cooled 2t.

15
Super 9 / Re: Final drive gear set
« on: June 29, 2017, 07:42:14 PM »
Yea, from what i have read, the Stage6 kit will not fit a LC model, but will an AC model. that there are two different malossi kits for super 9s, and the part numbers were M6711055, and M6711802. The M6711055 I think is the AC models and the M6711802 for the LC models. I know finding ones like finding four leaf clovers, but manufacturing one seems the only option these days. I know that pressing a gear in the secondary gearset wouldnt be terrible but the gear on the drive shaft is what im not sure is pressed or not. you have to have the gearing corrected straight instead of at an angle and have your desired tooth ratio and fitment. Im going to take it apart at some point soon and so i expect that i will see whether they welded or pressed or what they did to have the gear on the drive shaft. if they are all pressed on there then im curious how interchangeable or compatible they are. You know whats up tho, a Big bore just isnt a Big bore if its not using all its power.

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