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Hi guys,

I know, I know, I come here, only when I need some help, sorry for that, work and all that BS.

Anyway, I do have this ongoing battle with my Xciting 250i, I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of it, I'm tired of all the antics and the always reoccurring ailments. But I"m hanging on, the fuel consumption is great, weather protection is phenomenal and even though the bike is large and heavy, I've learned to navigate the traffic clogged streets of Budapest on it without an issue or any broken rear view mirrors

I had this rattle coming from the belt cover since day1, I have replaced the belt, roller weights, sliding guides to no avail. The bike is getting worse and worse at realigning the clutch side variator, and the bike slaps the belt around at idle for a minute or so before readjusting itself. I have had this constant chatter at idle too, not belt slap, an irregular chatter, so I went ahead, and have taken the whole rear variator assembly apart. I have cleaned and lubed everything and replaced clutch springs and the rubber stops, now the chatter has completely gone, but the belt slap has gone even worse with some side noises. When I have taken the variator part to pieces, I have realised, there is a large amount of free play in the turning faces - the groves and the pins, basically I can lift the variator faces apart by a whole centimeter without twisting the faces, I am not sure, if you get my stutter So either the groves are enlarged, the guide pins worn or both, I have no way of checking, as the workshop manual states wear limits only to the faces and so on. So given, that the Kymco parts supply in this country is nearly non-existent, I have thought of sourcing a second-hand clutch assembly, and making a working set, but nobody is selling salvage Xcitings at the moment. I am sure, as Kymco bikes are basically Honda parts bins, there is an equivalent Honda (or other Kymco) model(s), that uses exactly the same clutch, but where to start? Does anybody has got an idea, what model of a bike should I look for?

Thank you,

Regards,

Gab 

The Xcitings have a reed valve on the exhaust port and a control valve which allows air to pass through the reed valve.  The ECU will open the control valve whenever there could be unspent fuel in the exhaust; the back pressure when the exhaust valve shuts pulls in fresh air through the reed valve, which allows the unspent fuel in the exhaust to burn; the stock muffler does a pretty good job of muffling those secondary explosions in the exhaust pipe, but if for some reason you put an aftermarket exhaust on, it will be VERY obvious when you ease off the throttle, since the pops will be loud.

You dont say if your bike is the fuel injected version or not.   The non-EFI version has an idle speed adjustment that you can get at under the seat by removing an access door.  You need to wait for the bike to warm up then adjust it to the idle speed listed in the service manual.  The EFI models shouldn't need any adjustment, as there is an ECU controlled motor in the carburetor which controls the idle air mixutre.

HI, thanks for the info. The bike is an injected one, although I don't think, a carburetted bike has got an ISC valve. I did remove the IAC, and connected it to the battery, closes and shuts, as it should, but the ISC does f. all, I did spray it with contact cleaner, but upon connecting it to it's connector, and powering up the bike (only ignition, obviously no start) it barely clicks and does nothing to the idle speed, connected or not, whilst engine running. As I don't have access to a known functioning valve, I can not test, if this one works, or not compared to an another one. Idle is steady at 2000-2200, that is way too high, but I guess I will have to live with it till I find a working valve, that does not cost an arm and a leg

Now then... I'm happy to report,  that the transplant worked out brilliantly,  a battery measuring 12.5-12.6 is being charged at 13.5-13.7 at different throttle positions,  I will see,  how much current goes into a fully charged battery.  It was a bit of a bit©h to put the new stator on -  first the connectors gave some trouble and the mounting holes do not line up,  which would have been less of an issue,  if I could have gotten the rear spoiler off,  but the top box holder and it's bolt is rusted together so much,  I have rounded up all allen heads,  even after repeated attempts of penetrating oil treatment and heat. Eventually I will drill off the bolts,   but now I couldn't have arsed,  so I had to attach the stator with the spoiler in place,  it must have been a wonderful sight of me trying to bend my arm into unnatural positions to reach inside.

Hi Roberto,  if you mean 8-9 litres,  than that is way too much.  My 250 consumes 3-3.5litres, but it was around 5-6, when I bought it.  The 500s consume more,  but according to fuelly it should 5-6 litres.  Check sticky brakes,  run a system cleaning additive and think about stripping and cleaning the carb, or if it is injected, get the throttle body and all the sensors, probably he injector too cleaned

That is great news, Gab, that you found the Shin in a yard! I think the brown wire can be found going to the tail light which I am assuming is near where the reg-rect is located. I guess I am also assuming the tail light also comes on with the ignition!

Karl, I think US legislature requires the bikes to have the lights on all the time, so they are probably connected on an ACC line, not here though, I'm afraid. But again, I might completely wrong, and the brown wire is always hot, if the key is inserted, I will have to investigate. But where is that sodding brown wire? I might just trace it back to the blinker, or the clicker of the hazard lights, as one can turn on the hazards, as long as the key is in the ignition

Hi,  sorry to bring an old thread back to life,  but did you guys find a direct replacement? Also the name/type is written on the Honda regulators? Only because I can get to a local salvage yard,  but I would have to know,  what I'm looking for

Since last night I've investigated a bit more.  You could be right,  as there is no secondary air circle with a separate air cleaner on the DT,  but it is there on the various iterations of Xcitings.  I picked my brain,  and have realised,  that the secondary air goes to the head through a REED valve,  so that might be the emission control,  so most likely the IAC is supplying the exhaust with fresh air on an on-off basis.  I could be completely wrong though