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My problem is that service manual was written by drunken idiots and I am guessing what they might have meant.
Accordign to Service manual,
error code readout is simple and it works:
-key position off
-throttle full
-key on, engage ignition switch
-led is lit for 2s, then 3 s off, then on again and
-at that moment you have to release the throttle

Readout starts, and I got all error codes listed what this motorcycle ever had. Several of them are completely fixed, for example relays are up to spec under load, 100% sure, and yet I am failing to reset the codes.

Let me quote error readout procedure that WORKS:
"
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES
STEP-1
“key OFF ”? The throttle should be open and
hold fully
STEP-2
“key ON ” ?the CELP lamp will light for two
second then off.
Waiting for the CELP lamp again light
The throttle should be close.
The CELP lamp will to start output failure
Signs.( failure codes to use of long?short lamp to
collocate glisten showed)
When more than one failure occurs, the CELP
lamp shows the codes in the order of lowest
number to highest number. For example, if the
indicator blinks once, after code off 4 seconds
and comes on 4 seconds, then blink 2 times, two
failures have occurred. Follow codes 1 and 2.
"

Now there is reset procedue I have problem understanding, since it does NOT WORK:
"
CLEAR- FAILURE CODES PROCEDURES
STEP-1
You should be failure parts or Sensors to
exclude. .
STEP-2
“key OFF ”? The throttle should be open and
hold fully
STEP-2
“key ON ” ?the CELP lamp will light for two
second then off.
Waiting for the CELP lamp again light
The throttle should be open and hold
fully.(waiting for 10 seconds?)
The CELP lamp don’t output failure codes.
Finish. Clear failure codes procedures
"

My approach was simply from the above, that I have turned key and ignition on, then basically held throttle open at least 10s after second CELP lamp on. But then nothing, silence, and readout of codes returns all again.
Any clues how to clear the codes? Already tried disconnecting ECU for a long time. I suspect it uses FLASH or FRAM memory.

BTW my error codes are:
02
03
04
05
08
10
31
34
37
38
51
51
61
62

Basically with this amount of errors this should not even start (errors for relays: fuel pump, ignition, battery voltage, sensor voltage, idle throttle sensor, TPS, fan relay, ingition driver circuit, ISC valve, camshaft position, footrest). And yes fan is workign fine and enables when hot, motorcycle runs very well without overheating, I am maintaining it since 2 years but at last I would like to hunt all remaining problems.

Any idea howto?

Note: this is not that ECU is stupid and has random mix of errors, for example ignition errors concern only front cylinder and not rear one, and the mortorcycle truly had ingnition problems on the front cylinder initially two years ago.

Hi everybody.
Picture in attachment. The mechanic told me I can improve idle response during hot weather after replacing this part.
This is a brass-colored cylindrical pump with 3 tubes going into it.
I did not managed to get part number of this item, does not appear on parts manual I got.
Could anybody tell me where to find it, and what is official Kymco name for it (or part number) (they use broken English all the way)?

It is mounted under plastic fairing on the left side, it is a black box 1x1x2 inches.
Mechanic said it is suspected and called it interruptor, I see similar items on EBAY called relay. However, those have mounting hole and one more pin used in the plug - they are different.
The problem is I cannot find it on electric diagram, and commonly sold parts with identical marking have one less pin in the plug socket, a mounting hole for screw and are incompatible with my Venox. What is going on, I have something not mentioned in wiring diagram:
https://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/oemparts/a/kym/5b50e86487a866110c2e089f/wiring-harness-electrical-components
Could it be
EMI FILTER FAN MOTOR ?
39100-KHD8-9000

If so, it is completely unrelated to idle throttle...

Thank you for the suggestions. It was an indication of unreliable wiring to one of the cylinders, which was not firing correctly. One day I rode on paved road and it died during moderate riding (the second cylinder could not keep the motor spinning below some 2000RPM). Local mechanic was surprised by mess+entanglement but fixed the problem. The problem didn't re-occured for the next 2 months.  Upper exhaust is still cooler than bottom one, but the difference is much much less than before. I was learning to drive and not sure what dynamic to expect, so I didn't raeliazed the problem at first place.

I have worn out Venox 250 EFI made 2007.
19.000 kilometrage.
Recently used Shell Ultra 100 octane.
When low fuel light lit, waited extra 30km and filled to the max. 10,88l entered into supposedly 14l fuel tank, after driving 278km.
Much to my surprise this is 3.92l/100km or 60mpg.
Sunny weather 30+ Celsius >=86F large Polish city, flatland.
Commuting 2x6km daily in large city, every odd day 40km trip in random places around city, revving to the max after each light, but on lnger straight I like to run on reduced RPM+higher gear (for sound and economy).
Using synthetic Shell 10W40 and Liqui Moly Motorbike Oil Additive MoS2 125ml 1580.

Check tyre pressure, lubricate chain, change engine oil to something fresh then measure fuel consumption by noting on paper true fuel quantinty on gas station, then recalc using kilometrage counter. Understand that low fuel sensor is in itself inaccurate by 1-2l.