KymcoForum.com

@Seanny,
IF, when you had your caliper off and squeezed the brake handle, your brake-pads were IN  your caliper, you need not to worry. If you had them out and activated your brake, then piston and rubberseal has to be checked.
Scratching sound: brake discs get "wavy" by time, from heat and other influx. If this scratching is not permanent, you should be good to go.

Yes the brake pads are in the caliper the are just not mounted on the disc when I squeezed the brake. So its only when the brake pads are off the caliper and I accidentally squeezed the brake that I have to get the brakes checked? Good to know then I guess I am good to go woohoo thanks all!

Iowa Hawk beat me to it! I use the wood stick through the wheel to hold  it for unscrewing that nut. Your next challenge is getting the side plate off the back axle!

You are in the right place to find out how to do stuff! We got more bonafide techs here than any dealer. You will do just fine! Do what you are doing: ask questions, get answers, repeat. Take pictures when words fail. You are ahead of me on that one!

Now I understand what you meant about "foam washers!" Yes, there are rubbery grommets in there as a cushion. There should be also a little steel tube in all the washers to limit how much squeeze happens when each bolt is tightened. The grommets can be bought at Ace Hardware stores and Tractor Supply stores if in the US. The steel tubes can be made if similar sleeves not in the hardware store. The high temperature washers can be made from organic brake shoe material or a thick FEL-PRO head gasket. Many auto parts stores have thick high temp gasket material that can be doubled up to get whatever thickness needed.

Thanks Iahawk and CROSSBOLT for the suggestions. I was able to get the wheel off finally! Now I just have to bring it to a shop and have them change it and balance it and then I'll have to reassemble everything back. Hopefully I have all the parts, bolts, and screws to do so. The hardest part I think is the side plate and the suspension. The side plate is really stiff to pull out and the suspension its just tough to squeeze my hand and tools to unscrew the bolt out.

Btw I also don't see this part when I pull the nut and side plate off: https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11903.0;attach=17742;image
Maybe it's still sticked on the side plate but I am not sure.

Also when I reassemble everything back, is it recommended to put some anti-seize lubricant on the bolts for better disassembly in the future and also for preventing galling and corrosion?

Even John Deere and Beechcraft manuals describe fasteners by threaded diameter rather than hex size. Seems to be an industry standard.

"Muffler case" the same thing as the plastic heat shield so we don't get burned on the hot muffler?

I am familiar with the heat shield held on with hex head bolts with heat resistant fiber washers. Is that what you are talking about? The "foam washers" have me stumped.

They are two different parts, the washer is just a typical washer like this: https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/53MF83_GC01?hei=1000&wid=1000
but then there's also a piece of small ring shape foam. So I was just wondering if I have to replace that as well when I assemble everything back.

Btw totally not in the industry just a dumb joe trying to fix my own scooter and save some money but at least I am trying. I can either at least give a try and learn or I can just give up and not do anything. Other than that I don't know what else to respond. I am not trained, I have not worked in the industry. I only do minimum maintenance and I read the manual, watch youtube videos, and search forums on how to do it. In this case, the manual doesn't have the nut socket size and I searched parts for size and it doesn't give that as well, so I have no choice but to ask other owners for info. If I can pay money to solve this I would love to so that I don't bother anyone here but the only Kymco dealer around my area shut down because of lack of business. Some motorcycle repair shops don't even touch a Kymco because they haven't fixed one before and don't want to be held liable if anything happens. Some others will fix it but they might have to figure things out step by step. Luckily I found a thread here that shared step by step details as well as video links that gave me confidence to do it so I thought I might give it a try. I don't know any industry standards forgive me if thats preposterous for some users here.

Hi all,

I was attempting to do a rear wheel removal and I am at the point of removing the rear axle nut but don't have the correct nut size socket.

At first I was looking at this website: https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=kymco&T=DOWNTOWN%20300%20I%20ABS&Y=_&L=KYMCO_Downtown%20300%20i%20ABS&O=Rear%20Wheel%20%20&F=KYMCO_Downtown%20300%20i%20ABS_Rear%20Wheel%20%20&L2=KYMCO_Downtown%20300%20i%20ABS_Rear%20Wheel

and at part 90305 it saids size 16mm, which is rather small but I thought thats correct. But when I actually get to that point where I am going to remove the nut its way bigger than a 16mm. I have a 21mm and it's barely not big enough and my biggest one is 32mm which I used for my previous bike and thats too big.

I think what they mean by 16mm is the thread size but the nut size is different?

Anyone know what size it is so that I can go buy it?

Thanks in advance!

Seanny

Hi all,

Want to ask if anyone can point me the right direction on how to remove the rear wheel to change the tire? Or maybe any guides online or video that showcases how to do so?

My rear tire is about 2 years old but recently has been leaking air. My front tire after 1-2 months still holds decent air pressure, only dropped around 2-3 PSI but my rear tire dropped to single digits PSI from 30 PSI. And so I suspect there's a puncture on the rear tire and want to remove the wheel and bring it to a shop to change the tire.

But just not sure how to do so. Do I have to remove the pipe?

Any info or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Seanny

You are right, I have the service manual and not the owner's manual I thought the service manual will have everything the owner's manual have and more, but turns out the oil service light is mentioned on the owner's manual but not the service manual.

Thanks mousejunks and john grinsel for the answers.

I wash the outer body work with Murphy oil soap and the engine with spray Gunk degreaser(not the foamy stuff). I do use a pressure washer spray to hose off the engine but it is only a 1500 psi washer and I don't get the tip too close to any component. All that stuff is virtually waterproof so if it screws up getting wet, it needed replacing any way. The brake swithes are different, L and R and available on ebay cheap. Many posts on here about those things. What year is tour DT?

2011
Is this a good example for the light switch? https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Front-Brake-Light-Switch-Kymco-Downtown-300-i-2011-2012/152316451647?hash=item2376c49b3f:g:ffsAAOSwXeJYKG1A&vxp=mtr

Not sure why I see a lot of sellers from the UK, but non from the US or Taiwan, where the Downtown 300is were imported from.

lolofigo wow can you take photos of the steps to take off the back and side covers? I was trying to take the side covers to change the rectifier regulator but I couldn't figure it out, I eventually changed it without removing the covers but still it would be a lot easier to just take off the covers.


Btw, what I did today with my Downtown, I changed the Spark plug, oil, and filter, and I found out the old spark plug wasn't fastened tightly. I replaced it with a new E3 one and tightened it, the bike starts much better now and the power I feel is more stable when I hold the throttle. I am really happy I think I fixed the starting issue finally, hopefully it'll stay strong like this in the long run!