KymcoForum.com

It's funny that I'm constantly trying to teach my three grand daughters the difference between "wants" and "needs".

You bring up a good question that maybe we all "need" to visit ourselves.

I used to tour throughout Canada and USA on my 1854 cc bike. It would lope along doing 100kph (62mph) at 2500 rpm. You wouldn't believe how many forum members would whine about excessive engine rpm's and the absolute "need" for a sixed gear to lower said engine speed.

I currently ride mostly on my two scooters, one being 50 cc and the other is a 300. Sometimes I am happier on one vs. the other. I can see myself "needing" a middle of the road scooter between those two in the near future, but I truly understand that it's only a want and not really a "need".

Needy Rene

As an auto mechanic, he mainly needs advice on scooter/motorcycle specific issues...plastic removal etc...

Valve adjustments are unique on the Reflex. Remove crank view port cap. Find top dead centre mark. Remove cam port cap on other side of engine. Make sure that cam is in the right spot with a flat spot on top. If flat spot is on bottom, rotate crank one more turn until it's on top. Instead, i put my finger on the plug hole and feel for compression. When top dead centre mark shows up, you're ready.  On the side of valve cover are external valve adjustment levers. Loosen one at a time and finger rotate until valve rocker starts to press onto valve. Back off one notch on lever dial and tighten. That one valve is set. Now  do this to the other one. Do this with a cold engine.

Most important...give him directions to your favourite restaurant after it's all done!

Rene

As stig has stated, I look for evidence of factory applied blue thread locker. It is a safer bet to use some on brake bolts, but it is harder to remove the bolts later. Make sure to use a 6 point socket the next time you service your brakes. This way you stand a better chance of not rounding out your bolts!

I usually use "Neverseize" in the back and sliding parts of the brake pads. It consists of aluminium powder and oil. I would like to use something better if it exists.  I will look up this copper grease...thanks ModChip.

Rene

You're right Karl, My Echo weed muncher, err...grass trimmer, is the best one I've ever used. That being said, it is a 2 stroke and these engines burp and fart more than a 4 stroke. Is there a chance that it could also be something else? eg; water in gas from the high humidity, spec of dirt going through the jet, etc...

Inquiring minds need to know!

(I hope you don't mind a friendly exchange from your northern neighbour? If you do, I'll quietly bow out like any mild and meek Canadian!)

My '03 Yamaha Royal Star Venture had 4 carb heaters to help atomize the gas on start up until the engine got up to temps. It allowed a leaner carb jetting to help it pass the emission standards of the day. On a cold winter day, I'd leave the ignition on for a minute or so before the carbs got warm enough to atomize the gas. Neat setup. The 2018 Yamaha Vk540 snowmobile just got a carb heater in order to pass the stringent emission standards. One benefit is that it got a great mpg improvement. One drawback...guys are having to drill out or up size their pilot and main jets, as they are running too lean and burning down their engines!   

Rene

I initialized mine today and went for a ride. I parked it in the heat and hot sun all afternoon. It started right up and ran well without a fuss. I did what I call a "shot gun effect". I did 3 known possible "fixes" all at once. Any one of those or all three worked and it doesn't really matter to me which one "fixed" it. It could be the plug cap was getting more and more loose as time went by...it could be that it needed to be initialized (I'm not totally convinced, but it can't hurt) or it could be the venting of the gas tank. I wouldn't make a very good scientist, as one shouldn't have more than one variable at a time!

No scientist,
Gramps

Thanks Stig.

Champion plugs heat range numbers work the opposite of NGKs!

I checked my plug this morning and it has no deposits. This indicates it's not too cold.

The engine just so happened to fail last night when I went to park the scoot in for the night. It started OK and stalled out 30 seconds later. It wouldn't restart. WATCH THE PLUG CAP. IT CAN WORK ITS' WAY LOOSE!!! I went from underneath and snugged the plug cap back on tight and it started right back up.
 
Also, check that the plug is tight...mine was not tight at all!...it was not torqued properly right from factory. I only have 4000 kilometers on the bike so far.

I also vented the gas cap today...now my toy shed smells like it should...gassy!

Gramps

I used to harp about initializing since it seemed to cope with surging idle speeds and stalling. Initialize sequence is key off, run-stop switch to run, throttle wide open, turn key on, ten seconds later throttle closed, key off. Why it would help with surging idle I have not a clue. What really caused that was the vent valve to the gas tank was stuck shut. The difference between fuel injected and carb is EFI surges and carbs just quit. When it finally sunk in what was happening I wanted to replace the valve which seems to be BURIED under the fuel tank. So I vented the gas cap. There is a thread with pictures.

Thanks for those two tips.

On my efi Yamaha C3, we call it "resetting the idle". After the battery or ecm is disconnected and then reconnected, we have to switch the key on/off quickly, 3 times in a row. I didn't know it was called "initialize".

Also thanks for pointing out the vent location. I've been drilling out vent caps since the '70s..."When in doubt, drill it out!".

We french Canadians have a saying, "We're not going to bed so stupid tonight!".

Gramps     

Don't forget stuck vent valves....I harp on that these days more'n initialize!

Crossbolt. I don't know what you've been saying on these subjects, so bear with me.

By "initialize", do you mean turning the key on until the computer has had a chance to cycle through the initial speedo and tach sweep?

With the vent valve, are you talking about the cap vent which allows inlet venting? Where would excess pressure be vented in this CARB evap system (this is what I'm suspecting is happening in the high temps). I'm guessing that the gas vapours are building up too high and causing issues? Is there a faulty vent relief valve in this gas cap or elsewhere in this fuel/evap system?

I'm going to guess that it's a given, that in order for the engine to run properly, I shouldn't skip this "initialize" stage. So maybe I'll just leave the gas cap loose to vent fumes the day before I suspect it'll get warm at next start up?

Gramps