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Agreed, looks pretty good there.
What year was the scooter to get in that faded condition?
Parked outdoors?
Lot of sun?...Florida?
Stig

No, 
Parking outside bike parking with a roof
or inside my garage
7-8 month of usage per year
northern Mediterranean climate
so not in Florida.

I've read that once the plastic does that fade thing - the heat gun treatment only lasts for a limited time.
Please let us know how it works out for you.
(some spray paint the disassembled parts...)

I like my Power Pure Michelin too!

Stig

Hello Stig!
I did that plastic surgery in 2019 march  and sold it begining of february 2022  and I have advertising images. I need to compress them  I'll be back if I done

Wow!
That's some serious motorcycling you were doing on your 300!
The 750 seems a good choice for your needs.
Being curious here....these long high-speed rides are for pleasure...or job related,? What region/country?
Please do keep in touch here...and we love photos of anything, anyplace you are riding!!
Ride safe...

Stig

Hello Stig,
I usually ride 50-80km a day, but on weekends I can go on longer trips if I can.
Since Hungary is in a basin, there is no high mountain, so I have to drive 300-500 km to mountain sections, which I want to drive down as soon as possible.
That’s why I don’t dare take on such tours with Kymco, I’m sorry to drive at highway speeds for hours.
I never drive on the highway if I can, I always choose curve roads, regardless of the time elapsed, but this is the only way to reach distant destinations in normal time.

I forgot to make a picture with the fresh oil in the container which pinky easy to see through.

Front fork oil change.

After became free from pandemic restrictions, I rode allready 4000 kms, half time with passengers.
I feel the front fork/suspension easily damping most of the time when I brake or on poor quality roads.
So decided to change the fork oil and measure what the maintenance guide recommend.
The seals are in good condition (no oil leaks or sign as well), so just simple oil change.
I use the Kawasaki J300 procedures, which take off the top plug in the original fork position with special tool (two claw puller) and remove fork after that, instead of Kymco procedures, which take off the fork, then place on soft jawed vice and push the top plug with „something” while take out the snap ring as well     the snap ring took at least 2 minutes and kid fingers for me, so I dont know how to figure out the Kymco procedures?

I use 10W fork oil ( Fuchs Silkolene RSF 10) what Kymco recommended and follow two measuring procedures because much more accurate.
For the old oil need time to squeeze out, I measure 157ml (5.31 US oz) in a container, but the spring is full of oil, so I decided to fill with 185ml (6.25 US oz) what recommended after complete disassembly.
This is where the second measurement becomes important because the fully compressed inner tube (after pump several times) I measure exactly 82mm (3.2 inch) oil level without spring, so the 157ml not enough for oil change, need 185ml.
Spring lenght almost like a new 306mm (12 inch) need thorough cleaning.
Then the assembly is piece of cake.

If someone thinks "this can't happen to me", don't wait to act now, need „B” version if something happens !!!!!
I’m lucky because my story It took place in the garage, not on long all day trip far away.
When I took it out the luggage box, quite often checked/cleaned my latches, only two times needed to adjust, because I feel the ingnition key need long turn to open it.
Seat opening always worked, and I read here some forum post, someone stucked, or have problem to adjust, thats why I checked the mechanism, the simple logic etc. , but I’m not found any malfunction.
I did wrong.
When I put back my engine (long story) and setup everything, I was really looking forward to the first trip, clean my bike and dressed up, I want to take out something from luggage box and turn ignition key left.
Pak….I heard some weird click, the right side latch open, the left does not…..
The seat lock cable broken, I tryed to pull them from the front (windshield and nose removed ofcourse) but nothing happened.
It lasted for an hour to lift up the seat one side, and reached another side screw nuts in a narrow gap.
The seat lock cable is safely conducted, I think unreachable for water, but the lower points the seat cable wire corroded and broken. (I don’t even know how ).
So if someone have working seat lock, don’t hesitate to put ZIPtie to the pulling mechanism on the laches, this is the B version and most important for trouble free operation on the safe side. It takes half an hour maybe and we can safely close our values.
Now I  put back the new seat cable, lubricated it before installation and leave my ZIPtie puller also in a secure places which only accessible by the owner, which worked for two weeks flawlessly.
Use ignition key to open and don't think about this story.

Hi,
Check variator rollers diameter, and sometimes slide pieces stuck if your variator dirty.
After removing the cover, start your engine and look how it moves, be careful do not touch during that, use throotle for higher rpm like 4000-5000.
If your take of the bell use sandpaper slightly 120 grit or higher, as earlier mentioned.

Hi my scooter has been through 40000km i need to do service soon.. but my question is why my scooter when i put a full throttle from a stop the scooter accelerated with such a delay and then he start to get speed but not like in the past. And he strats to move always with vibration in the first 20kmh. Onther problem is when i put full throttle the scooter slow down between 100kmh to 120kmh like something is stopped him but few seconds after that he gain the speed but slow... Not like in the past.. so my question is maybe i need to change the clutch? Or do the service and check after the service?

Changed engine and gear oil today. Yes, filter, too! Nearly fainted when ODO checked over 18000? Yeah, kilometers! Had the battery out and power up default is kms! Little short of 12000 MILES and interval was under 3000 miles. No leak, no burn, no change, none expected. Used the last oil filter from Motorcycle Superstore...bought 10 filters in 2013... used the last one today. They don't carry that filter since J something Cycle bought them out. I'll get the next one from Amazon...

The gear oil was a bit cloudy, still amber but darker. Put in dino 80/140 since I thought I had gotten the synthetic. Oh, well..

Had a short test ride today. Good start, ran well. Now, I need a trip!

Hi Crossbolt!
I also constantly inspect the drained oil in a transparent container and with rubbed fingers 
For gear oil, hard to find specified SAE90, because 80-90 not "hard" enough (I changed gear oil 3 times allready), and also the price twice as much, but fortunately I find over internet by local store. https://www.fuchs.com/hu/en/special/product/product/112780-titan-gear-ls-sae-90/
Right now, the rear drive has an "interesting voice", I wonder after gear oil change the "voice" will also change.