Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - SVX_Blue

Pages: [1]
1
Xciting 250 / Stator interchangeability
« on: January 13, 2020, 04:54:22 AM »
Hi everyone.

I was wondering if the stator in the xciting 250 was interchangeable with the people 250 or Grand Dink 250?

The price for the xciting one is about twice if the other two.

2
The bystarter works by heating a wax that expands and extends the plunger into the hole on the carb that closes off the enrichment circuit. That process takes about three minutes.  Like shutting off the "choke".

If you disable the bystarter by unplugging the wires to it, the plunger cannot extend.  The "choke" will always be on.

Think about it.  When working as designed the plunger extends after a few minutes as the engine warms up and the mixture is leaned out at idle.  The rpm's drop back to normal idle speed.

If it dies when the plunger extends, then I would look at a plugged jet or passage, and check that the idle speed adjustment screw is set properly.

I don't know man it seems like we are saying the same thing just two different ways:

  • It shoudn't run like it does with the bystarter unplugged
  • There is still a problem with the carb

Which is why I said it doesn't solve the problem but unplugging it corrects the behavior. There is still a problem but doesn't die when giving throttle any more.

3
I guess I'm not understanding you.  When you say "Doesn't solve the problem but unplugging it corrects the behavior"  what do you mean?

So when you unplug the bystarter, it will idle for more than four minutes and not die?

When you say "unplugging" the bystarter do you mean disconnecting the electrical connector, or do you mean physically removing the bystarter unit from the carb body?

Yes it seems to run fine when I disconnect the bystarter. But running without the choke isn't normal. So yes it does fix it but it's not exactly right

4
needle jet

Checked that last night. It was clean with no damage.

5
Unplugging the bystarter solves the issue?  Odd, the bystarters work by extending the plunger after operating for a few minutes, closing off the enrichment circuit on the carb.  Unplugging it would keep the enrichment circuit open, a rich operating condition.

Does it smell rich when idling?  They can really stink when running rich.

I bought a used B&W that didn't run well.  Found out previous owner had "cleaned" the carb.  It was missing the O ring in the idle screw, and the needle jet - which sits above the emulsion tube between the brass tube and carb body.  Both are easy to misplace, and will keep the scoot from running well.

The idle screw is usually set 2-1/2 turns out.

The diaphram is difficult to install - if you can get it in the "middle", not pushed all the way down or extended up it will install easier.

I guess a little clarification on the symptoms will help.  Runs for three or four minutes, then dies.   Dies at idle when doing nothing, or moving the throttle after the three minutes?  Or trying to drive off after three minutes, which puts a load on the engine?


Doesn't solve the problem but unplugging it corrects the behavior - letting me narrow down the problem to the carb.

  • It dies at idle when I just let it idle after a few minutes. Any throttle it will bog down and stall. No load on the engine - it has been on the center stand since I brought it home since I had to change the stator. But it ran this way before I changed the stator.
     
  • It only stank the first few times I fired it up because it had been sitting so long it was burning stuff off.
  • I did re-adjust the idle screw to 2-1/2 turns because it was set at 3-1/4 turns out. But that didn't change how the scoot was acting.
  • I'll check the the needle jet again just to be sure. 

I'm still leaning toward the Throttle valve piston diaphragm being the culprit

6
I did check the line. It is in good shape no cracks or other damage to it.

I do have an update though. I've narrowed it down to a carburetor issue. Unplugging the bystarter (electric choke) stops the behavior. Which means I'm dealing with a 'rich' condition.

According to the service manual I found could mean any of these things:

Rich mixture
  • Damaged vacuum piston diaphragm (I assume they mean the Throttle valve here)
  • Automatic valve opens excessive
  • Clogged diaphragm hole
  • Faulty float valve
  • Float level too high

When I cleaned the carb I did notice the Throttle valve piston diaphragm seemed to be stiffer than what it should be. My guess is that is going to be my problem - There is probably a crack in the diaphragm that I missed.

7
Thanks I'll be sure to check all the vacuum lines.

8
So I'm at a loss with my 07/08 xciting 250.
 
Since I've bought it last month I've only been able to wrench in it. The person I bought it from said that it wasn't charging the battery and it's been sitting.

When I brought it home I did the standard tune up stuff : new oil, plug, air filter, cleaned the carb and jets.  When trying to to run it, the scooter runs for a while - ,maybe 3 or 4 minutes then it dies. Sooner if I try to give it throttle.  After it dies it is a hard start and when it does it runs really rough and will only run for a minute.
Any who those are the symptoms...

 Then I started testing the charging system. Reg/rectifier tested good, but the stator didn't.

So I bought a new stator, installed it, started to refill the fluids, and noticed the water pump mechanical seal was leaking so I replaced that as well.

I get it back together and it is running the exact same.
I double checked that the new stator was good, checked the reg/rectifier again, cleaned the carb again, checked the fuel pump and filter for good flow.

Can any of you suggest something else to check?  Like I said I'm at a loss as to what to do with the scooter.


9
Xciting 250 / Xciting 250 Water Pump Mechanical Seal & Seal Washer
« on: March 28, 2019, 06:27:15 PM »
So I just got done replacing the stator in my X250. Cleaned up the right crank case cover, put it on, filled it with oil,put most of the bike back together.
FYI if anyone has this scooter - Kymco discontinued the right crank case cover gasket.

Time to refill the coolant... and now it is leaking coolant from the weep-hole just under the wp housing.
Because I bought a non-running scoot I expected stuff like this. The mechanical seal was probably bad after the scooter sitting so long and with me cleaning all the grease/oil/dirt off the crank case cover it probably unplugged/unclogged the weep hole.

So now on to my question: The service manual says that "when you replace the mechanical seal, a new seal washer must be installed to the impeller." I have the part number for the mechanical seal but not that porcelain seal washer. It isn't even on any parts diagram I've been able to look at. Does anyone have the part number for this - or should I just chance it an use the one already installed?

10
Hi if the Stator for the B&W/People 250 is interchangeable with the Xciting 250 I would be interested in getting a price for that.

11
Xciting 250 / Re: Xciting 250/500 fairing interchangeability
« on: February 25, 2019, 10:51:21 PM »
Thanks! I appreciate the help. The fairings on my 250 are in pretty rough shape (P.O.D - previous owner damage). If I can widen my search to include the 500 fairings it will make life easier.

Aside, from the cosmetics there is a vaccume leak (So far I've found this to be the slide diaphragm in the carb. It looked like someone forced the slide up and 'popped' the diaphragm) and an electrical issue -but haven't had a chance to diagnose it yet. 

12
Xciting 250 / Xciting 250/500 fairing interchangeability
« on: February 22, 2019, 09:10:32 PM »
Hello all!

First post in this forum. I just over the last weekend picked up a 2008 (date of manufacture was July '07) Xciting 250.  I bought it cheap because it had been sitting a while and is in rough shape cosmetically.
I will be going through it top to bottom/front to back to get it back on the road but as I'm combing through the internet looking for replacement parts (nearly all the fairings are damaged in one way or another) I'm noticing that replacement fairings are pretty difficult to get a hold of.  I know that the 250 and 500 look pretty similar - is there a chance that the fairings from the 500 fit the 250 (or vice versa)?

Thanks for your time everyone.

Pages: [1]