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I'm needing some input on some online parts warehouses that sell parts for a 2018 Kymco 450i UXV 4X4. Not having any luck with the dealer and the places I've found sell very little to zero parts for my SxS. any parts outlets would be greatly appreciated, I'm really in need of some front axles.

There is a cheap way of fixing your problems with plastic skid plates. I don't know if it will work for the regions you all live in but it works great here in southern West Virginia. It took a couple of time to get what I was shooting for but I believe it is going to be worth it. The first thing you'll need to get is some signs, like the one on the highways or men working signs something of that type. You can usually get them at a junkyard or an auction or just grab a few as you go down the road, just joking. Once you find some take you plastic ones off and lay them over the aluminum signs and mark your holes and drill them, this includes all your drain holes and mounting holes. You have three main frame plates and two side plates and the first time I did it I used the old plastic plates to mark the outline of the plates to get them to match like the old ones, but I found out that you leave quite a bit uncovered so I just put the plates up one at a time and put a couple of screws in to hold it in place and mark it with a marker  at the edge of the frame, you need to start at the back and work forward because you need to let the plates overlap around 4 inches. Do not let them butt together end to end, bad mistake as I found out the hard way, a well place stick or rock will find it's way in between them. put the back one on then put the middle one on and let it overlap the back one and so forth on the front one let it overlap the middle one. Your two side plates will bump up against the main frame on the inside edge and cut the outside to fit the outside rail. Only three screws can be used on the inside edge and this is why I double plate it, better safe than sorry this is where your fuel tank is. I use the same bolt holes but I use a self-tapping screw with a metal and rubber washer on it, does not vibrate lose this way. Okay, you now have a sturdy and durable aluminum skid plate that is better than the ones you pay six to eight hundred dollars for. All for under fifty to sixty bucks, I went a little further on mine and added two pieces of 1/2 inch black steel gasline pipe to each side of the main frame, this will give you enough to skid you across a log or hump of dirt if you bottom out on it. You are using the same holes that were there to start with. If you are going to use these you need to leave the screws out of the skid plate on the main frame until you are put the steel pipe on. To do this use a step-down bit to drill the holes so that the screw head will be on the inside of the pipe, make sure you slope both ends of the pipe and for a little more durability I used spray foam inside the pipes to keep water and mud out of the pipes. When it comes time to clean, take your seat out, your hood off, and raise your bed and you should have no problem spraying the mud out.

! ran this diagnostic on the supply harness to the Actuator and it all passed. the only thing left is the $280.00 dollars Actuator lol                                                                         .

NOTE: With the engine stopped and the ignition switch in the ON position, a momentary “whirring” sound must be noticeable each time the selector switch is moved to 2WD and 4WD. Test the switch, 30 amp fuse, and wiring connections prior to testing the actuator.

Set the multimeter to read DC voltage (DCV).
1. Select the 2WD position on the front drive selector switch; then disconnect the connector on the actuator wiring harness.

2. With the ignition switch in the OFF Position, connect the black tester lead to the black wire in the supply harness; then connect the red tester lead to the brown/lavender wire in the supply harness.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position The meter must show 12 DC volts.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the white/blue wire in the supply harness. The meter must show 12 DC volts.

5. Select the 4WD position on the front drive selector switch, then connect the red tester lead to the white/blue wire in the supply harness. The meter must show 0 DC volts.

6. Connect the red tester lead to the brown/lavender wire in the supply harness. The meter must show 12 DC volts.

Well after finding a wiring diagram and running down the wire that I found was grounded it was all a matter of time. The dang brown with sky blue line in it was the problem. I did a reverse test with the test light and found the ground and couldn't believe that wire ran to so many place on my UXV. The last place I checked was the problem, it was the buzzer back behind the battery box. I didn't even know it had a buzzer, it has never worked since I had the thing. The way it sets in there it is sure to get water in it, they mounted it with the open top straight up. It should be mounted upside down.