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Messages - Mark James

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1
Like 50 2T / Re: Please help me with my moped
« on: September 11, 2022, 08:16:50 PM »
3 restrictions on this bike.

Variator boss, carb jet, and muffler.  Easiest thing to do is buy a new variator because they usually come with a new drive boss.  You will need an electric impact wrench or figure out a way to hold the variator while you unscrew the variator nut.  Upgrade the carb jet (search this forum for size).  The muffler can be left alone but to de-ristrict it you can cut off the extra emissions tubes and weld the hole shut.

2
Super 8 / Re: 70 cc kit issue
« on: May 22, 2022, 02:31:01 AM »
You are soft seizing (overheating).  Pressue test your cylinder first.  If it holds 6 lbs for a half hour you are good to go.  If it doesn't hold pressure, reassemble with hondabond.  Next step, get a temperature gauge.  I am using a $25 one from amazon which works well.  Tune the carb (jet size, needle clip position) by temperature.  Tune the variator (rollers/sliders) using the tachometer.  Keep the engine under 350 degrees, the lower the better.

Check out my posts for my 2 year saga with my bbk on the same engine.

3
New Carb.

Still was having heat problems (350ish) in hilly areas and i noticed that at wot the temperature was fine.  As I backed off the throttle it heated up quickly and also at 1/2-3/4 throttle it was running hotter than wot.  Started thinking about the needle.  Since the needle clip is not adjustable in the original carb (no room for shims either) I bought a 19mm $25 chinese carb on amazon.  Still ran hot with needle clip in #3.  Tested and moved it down, again down and ended in position #5.  Same hilly area and the temperature hasn't gone above 300 degrees.  Still want to get rid of the air restrictor but I am happy with the performance.

Main jet 92, Idle jet 38, needle clip in position 5 (closest to the point).

I am mixing 50:1 (2.6 ounces/gallon) now in addition to the oil pump.  The engine sounds different when I premix and I am sticking with it.

4
zx50 / Re: Can someone please help me 2003 kymco zx 50 super fever
« on: May 05, 2022, 02:15:34 AM »
This may sound silly but it has happened to me a few times.  Is your kill switch on the handlebars in the run position?  If no spark, I would start there.  Then test the switch for continuity...then cdi... then check for continuity between negative battery terminal and cylinder head to test grounds.

From the service manual:
IGNITION SYSTEM
No spark at plug
Faulty spark plug
Poorly connected, broken or shorted wire
-Between A.C. generator and CDI unit
-Between CDI unit and ignition coil
--Between CDI unit and ignition switch
-Between ignition coil and spark plug
Faulty ignition switch
Faulty ignition coil
Faulty CDI unit
Faulty A.C. generator


5
My two-year saga of my bbk seems to finally be over.   My first try was the Naraku which seized up and scratched/pitted the cylinder head.  Malossi was next which resulted in the piston and rings toasted (head still salvageable with only 1 small scratch in it.   After going through 2 bbk kits ($$$$$) I decided to put the original back in which led to soft siezes and me pushing the bike home several times.  Gave up on it last fall and started thinking (and watching youtube videos) about pressure testing.  Finally pressure tested it 2 weeks ago and found my problem was the reed cage gaskets were leaking (which I replaced during the 1st BBK) causing the extreme lean/heat conditions.

I got a new Malossi piston (why do they make their pistons a little shorter than the standard size? and wtf with their circlips?) and reassembled the head using hondabond (in addition to base gasket, no hondabond on o-ring gasket).  In addition I used hondabond on the reed cage.  Pressure tested and it held 5 lbs for 40 minutes so I was confident the problem was solved.  Next was an install of temperature/tachometer gauge to monitor the cylinder head temperature.  Used 245Luigi’s posts (ty) for jetting the original carb, added 2 capfuls of oil to gas tank and turned up the oil pump to maximum and I was ready to go

The engine was running a little hot  (350-375making me nervous) so I switched to heavier rollers (6.5 slider to 8.5 roller I had laying around).  Still a little too hot so I had to reinstall the black plastic air flow restriction (that came with the bike) in the air intake and that makes the bike a little slower with less rpms so it runs a little cooler (300-325 with one time today at 350 in a hilly area.   

Have a 92 main jet right now and when I upjetted to 95 it just ran hotter so I stayed at 92.  I hope I can find a solution to the heat so I can get rid of the air flow restriction.  Top speed without the air flow restriction was mid 40’s, 41 with it.  I think that speed is the bike’s maximum because of the gearing.

My advice to anyone doing the bbk, pressure test, Honda Bond, temperature gauge, tachometer.  Hope this helps someone the same way I have been helped by this forum.

6
Super 8 / Re: New piston but top end speed decreased kymco super8
« on: April 27, 2022, 03:39:50 AM »
Air leak.  Pressure test your engine.

7
Like 50 2T / Re: 2 oil inlets. Do I need both?
« on: July 04, 2021, 10:40:56 PM »
This bike has 2 oil injection nipples.  One on the carb and one of the intake manifold.

8
Like 50 2T / 2 oil inlets. Do I need both?
« on: June 26, 2021, 07:25:43 PM »
Can I cap off the oil inlet on the carb and just use the oil inlet on the intake manifold (just like my zx50).  My oil inlet on the intake manifold is sucking air from the carb inlet.  I am assuming the little inline brass connector is a check valve (and it failed).  Any insight?  Thanks in advance.

9
Like 50 2T / Like 50 > Like 200 Engine swap
« on: October 06, 2019, 02:12:47 PM »
I was planning on doing a big bore on my Like 50 but I was able to purchase a low mileage semi wrecked 200i.  Beside the engine, I believe they are exactly the same bike.  I want to do an engine swap (complete lower swing arm) to keep this bike in the lower registration class.  Both engines are completely intact.  So far I see the only see different:

  • 2 shocks on 200i (I think I am OK with only the one on my 50)
    remove 2t oil reservoir
    swap gas tanks (fuel injection)

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

10
Like 50 2T / Re: New to me 2011 Like 50
« on: August 30, 2019, 05:12:55 AM »
Here's where I am at:

43 mph (flat, no wind) oem spring, 8 gram sliders ($6 dr. pulley clones), smooth boss, muffler restrictions removed (from http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11962.0), 85 jet, air restriction removed from air box.

Just as fast as my BBK Gy6 (not including hills).

11
Like 50 2T / Re: New to me 2011 Like 50
« on: July 11, 2019, 10:44:09 PM »
When I opened up the variator cover it was just as I suspected.  A couple rodents got in through the vent hole and nested.  Cleaned it out, lubed it and all is fine now with the electric start.

25 mph    1500 spring, 6 gram sliders and smooth boss

30 mph  oem spring, 6 gram sliders and smooth boss

35 mph   oem spring, oem rollers, and smooth boss.

39 mph   oem spring, oem rollers, smooth boss, muffler restrictions removed (from http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11962.0), 88 jet, air restriction removed from air box.

Hesitates a little on acceleration which on my gy6 indicated it was running rich.




12
Like 50 2T / New to me 2011 Like 50
« on: July 03, 2019, 12:55:25 AM »
Hello All,

Thanks for the info on the board.  I am the proud owner of a new (2 me) 2011 2t restricted barn find with 130 miles on the clock.  I completely drained the fuel/oil system.  Cleaned the carb, including some sort of larvae in the bowl, not sure how it got in there.  I will eventually get to the BBK.  It had a .7 main jet and I replaced it with a .82 gy6 jet I had laying around.  Started with 2 kicks and tops out at 27mph (verified by traffic radar) but it feels like the drive boss, which I have on order.   Electric start is not working but when I press the button it puts a very high draw on the battery so I figure it's something binding up the electric start gear.  I tried the old trick of tapping on the starter motor but it didn't work.  I will address this when my variator parts come in.

Here's my plan:
1.  smooth Drive boss
2.  6 gram dr pulleys
3.  1500 spring

I will keep the board updated.

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