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Spraysoak the throttle body entirely, let it sit a minute or two then use a vacuum cleaner to get the dirt and cleaner out. Wipe with a clean cloth.I'm completely dismantling it from the engine. I'm taking it out.
Its not really exciting dirty, but could use a cleaning.i use bg moa throttle body cleaner.. what do u mean vacuum cleaner?
Make sure to use brake cleaner first and a vacuum cleaner during this action.
Downtown engines are pretty bullet-proof so I doubt and damage done. All the same such 'ooligan behaviour is not recommended!i hope so.. this engine have a rev limiter? I remember i was sounds very weird like something preventing it from go higher
Not at all, but IF your engine suffers an oil issue, you will not notice it and destroy it, which might be more costly than a €20,- switch.so the purpose of this oil pressure sensor is ONLY warning you if something fail? Thats it?
Reason for this switch is do indicate enough oil pressure within your engine to lubricate all neccessary turning parts like bearings, crank etc.if i would ride without this switch working it will cause damage?
Ignition on = oil pressure light ON
Off after a few seconds.
Oil light permanent ON = to less pressure and NO lubrication.
No light can be:
-faulty oil pressure switch (pretty rare)
-cable lose or broken (by exhaust pipe?) suspected
-cable shoe corroded
-faulty fuse
Pls go through all of this.
If all fails, take the pressure switch out, go to a motorcicle dealer (they can benchtest it) and buy smtg similar with the same PSI stamped on it.
No harm to be ecpected at alI IF your scoot wasn't faulty before.its still not working i still dont have red oil light on the dashboard.. what the purpose of this oil pressure sensor?
Just bend contacts together a bit, replug, and its good again.
Cable should be ABOVE exhaust pipe, fix it with a cabletie.
This plastic "extension" tank should be filled maximum (cold motor) up to 1/3 of its volume (marks somewhere on the sidewall).show i run the engine also with regular water to clean the system and then fill with new coolant?
Should fill itself after awhile of running motor (watch).
Radiator closed.
COLD motor, fill with motor running
WARM/hot motor, fill with motor NOT running
(reason: open or respectively closed thermostat [example])
Does NOT make a difference slow or fast filling, only flushing if neccessary by garden-hose.
There are two hoses at your waterpump, a thicker and a thinner:and what about the resivor? Fill it in the end or in the begging?
-engine OFF
-open radiator cap
-radiator FULL?
-thinner hose off waterpump
-radiator level SINKING?
-coolant out of thin hose in steady stream?
-if YES, replug thin hose
-top up coolant in radiator
-start engine
-bubbles from radiator
-let run and see, maybe top up again, close
are you filling your coolant very slowly? Squeezing and tapping on the hoses during the process to 'burp' out extra air?i will try squeezing the hopes.. and about filling i need to fill it slowly? And filling with the engine running or not?
YES, even it is a little bit of water, a new block costs for sure more than this seals.this seal is inside. Outside is the bearing from what is saw so i need to open all the gearbox and i cant do it and it will be expensive work at the mechanic
Just imagine instead of oil you put a piece of butter in this gearbox.
I would not see this oilseals too tricky and expensive to change, since all are approachable from outside ( if it is this gear shown in pics)
