KymcoForum.com

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05 Sep 2016:
I paid the insurance on the scooter. The new insurance is effective from 01 Oct 2016 through 01 Oct 2017.

$78.76
Confirmation Number: 25C9-CA8F47GJ-328330
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07 Sep 2016:
I received the parts I'd ordered on 27 Aug 2016.
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06 Jul 2016:
I finally got my feet healed up enough that I can get around without much pain, so I'm playing catch-up on the maintenance.

Inspect brake system
Clean/Replace spark plug
Inspect suspension
Inspect tires
Replace engine oil
Replace engine oil filter
Replace gear oil

Engine Oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine Oil Additive - 8.5 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear Oil Additive - 1.75 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)

That's ~1000 miles on the engine oil and gear oil, and it still came out looking good.

The tires are holding up really well. They've got ~3000 miles on them, with negligible wear.

The brakes are still in great condition, showing very little wear. Now that the clutch disengages at ~9 MPH, the brakes are used even less, so they won't wear much.

The spark plug looks good, no blistering, no great amount of buildup, just a small amount of light brown cruft on the bottom of the barrel.

The suspension is in good condition. I went through and torqued the bolts to be sure everything was tight.
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07 Jul 2016:
Well, it was bound to happen eventually. I'm just glad it happened at low speed. I crashed the bike today on the way to work. It was a low-side crash.

Going around the on-ramp to the freeway at 37 MPH, hit a patch of something slick, and down went the bike.

As I felt the bike slipping out from under me (which at this point was beyond the tilt angle where it scrapes, right-side, so I knew there was no way I was going to recover), I kicked away from it... I didn't want to get tangled up in a tumbling bike.

My first instinct as I hit the ground was to try to catch my fall, and that's what I did, jarring my shoulder, scraping my right forearm and right knee... if I'd just rolled it out, I don't think I would have been scraped up as much. As it is, I have a 5" long by 1/2" wide scrape on my right forearm; two silver dollar sized scrapes on my right knee, one above and one below the knee; a quarter sized scrape on my left knee; a slightly sore right shoulder; and for some reason, some skin got peeled back on a couple toes of my left foot... I suspect my foot twisted weirdly as I was rolling, and the toenails dug into flesh.

After I was off the bike, it slid into the weeds and flipped over onto its left side, digging the left handlebar into the dirt, bending the left handlebar and breaking off the left mirror.

The bike started back up and was rideable. The left handlebar is bent, the left mirror is broken off, the windshield has a broken mount on the left side, and there's some scrapes on the right-side lower bodywork and muffler. But all in all, it wasn't bad.

My jacket and jeans took the brunt of the abuse. If my jacket hadn't torn the entire length of the right forearm, I doubt I'd have a scrape on my arm.

I went home, put hydrogen peroxide on the scrapes, then used my wife's hair dryer (which has an infrared light on it to speed drying) to dry the wounds. I'll be back at work tomorrow.

I'll order the parts necessary to get FrankenYager back on the road in the next few days. I think I'll go with an aftermarket windshield this time. Perhaps like the one MotoRandy put on his Yager.
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15 Jul 2016:
I tried to order the following parts from KymcoPartsMonster.com:
Number:   Tag:      Part #:         Description:            Price:
(1)   90106-KFC2   90106-KFC2-900      BOLT WASH 8MM            $3.65
(1)   53105      53105-LEA5-E00-NES   END R HANDLE            $19.62
(1)   53102      53102-LEA5-E00-NES   END L HANDLE            $19.62
(1)   53205      53205-LEA5-E00-N1R   COVER HNDL UP (Black)         $21.87
(1)   53206      53206-LEA5-E00-N1R   COVER R HANDLE LOW (Black)      $21.33
(1)   53100      53100-LEA5-E00      HANDLE COMP STRG         $57.82
(1)   90106-GEN5   90106-GEN5-901      BOLT FLANGE 10*50         $5.88
(1)   53125      53125-GEN5-901      COLLAR HANDLE SET         $6.32
(1)   1830A      1830A-LEA6-M30-HJP   MUFFLER ASSY EXH         $294.38
(1)   64301      64301-LEA6-M30-NZP   FR COVER (Red)            $70.08
(2)   90105      90105-KHB4-900      BOLT WASH M8*60 **9000 C.2005.03.01   $7.75
(1)   53175      53175-LEA5-E00      LEVER R STRG HNDL         $23.40
(1)   53178      53178-LEA5-E00      LEVER L STRG HNDL         $23.40
(1)   3051A      3051A-LEA6-900      COIL COMP IGN            61.32
(1)   14510      14510-KEBE-900      TENSIONER CAM CHAIN         24.69
(1)   14610      14610-KKJ9-001      GUIDE COMP CAM CHAIN         14.65
(1)   88120      88120-LEA6-900-NEP   MIRROR ASSY L BACK         39.16

The last item is the left mirror, which wasn't listed on the KymcoPartsMonster.com website (I got the part number from my parts list), so I contacted them about it via email. I'll order the parts as soon as I get a reply.

UNABLE TO ORDER - I'll reuse the existing one:
(1)   90304      90304-GHE8-004-SY   NUT U 10MM            $3.97

From epfguzzi.com (powersportsoutlet.com), I ordered:
Windscreen - Puig - yager
Quantity: 1
Item number: YGFPCT
Item price: $162.99
Shipping: $32.00
Total: $194.99
Transaction ID: 7N700606VC8398057
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The rear holds .18L or 180ml/cc. 4 x 50ml would overfill it.

Nah, it won't. Filling it up until it runs out the fill hole will definitely overfill it, and cause some of the oil to be pulled into the air cleaner housing, but 200 cc doesn't. I think 180 cc is too little, so I always use 200 cc.

I'm running a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug. It fixed my rough cold idle and gives a bit more grunt at low engine speed, which I needed, since I've modded the clutch to engage at 2500 RPM.

In doing research on spark plugs, I found the Iridium plugs don't work as well for waste-spark systems like ours. In fact, any spark plug which has a tiny point won't work as well with a waste-spark system... a sharp point makes it easier for the charge to jump the gap, but the waste spark has to jump from the flat center post to that sharp point, which is harder to do, so it's unbalanced, which somehow makes for a weaker spark since the voltage of the waste spark isn't completely drained by the time the forward-spark is next initiated... that's likely why FrankenYager didn't like the Iridium plug as much as it likes the Pulstar.

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07 Apr 2016:
I've been out with a foot injury... if you'll remember, this is where I came in when the scooter was first purchased, too. The bad thing about it is that I couldn't even do the 12,000 mile maintenance items, even though I was off work for a month. I'll get to them as soon as I can.

My 74th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 12,185.1 miles
Miles Ridden: 210.4 miles
Fuel: 2.560 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.539
Total Cost: $6.50
Fuel Mileage: 82.188 MPG
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29 Apr 2016:

My 75th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 12,377.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 192.1 miles
Fuel: 2.313 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.549
Total Cost: $5.90
Fuel Mileage: 83.052 MPG
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Your clutch judder can be gotten rid of by using some rheopectic grease on the clutch shoes and inside of the clutch bell. I found some really thick stuff that's like hot mozzarella cheese when you apply it. As the clutch pads rise to engage the clutch bell, they first contact the rheopectic grease. The shearing force causes the rheopectic grease to thicken, thus you get a very small amount of slip and a solid lockup

Newgate Simms Limited
Unit 6, Broughton Mills Road,
Bretton, Chester CH4 0BY
Nye Lubricants Extra Heavy PG­44A, 50gram jar NL1182 22.50 BP

That small jar should last you the life of the bike. One thing I like is that since there's no more frictional contact between clutch shoes and clutch bell, instead using shear-thickening of the rheopectic grease to transfer the torque, the clutch shoes shouldn't wear much.

I've got my Dr. Pulley HiT clutch engaging at 2500 engine RPM now, and it's incredibly nice for low speed riding... the old clutch used to engage around 5000 RPM, and launch was a bit hectic, as was controlling low-speed riding, especially weaving in and out of stopped traffic. Now I just have to crack the throttle the tiniest bit and the clutch engages. I can chug up the steepest of hills at 3000 RPM without problem.

It's still got a tiny bit of clutch judder, but not nearly what it was with the old clutch setup. The judder now is due to that grease being too thick, I think. I could have gone with the next-thinner stuff for a slightly less-aggressive lockup.

Only thing that would have made me think twice about a Yager would be durability. Mine had a bit of a overheating issue. Not good when running top end all day.

Really? That's odd... mine almost never has the fan come on. I felt the warm air flowing through those vertical slits near your lower legs only twice so far, both times on the same ride, on a warm night, during a 40 mile or so run, pulling up a steep hill of a few miles in length at full throttle. Apparently the rest of the time, the forward motion of the bike is enough to keep the coolant cool. When I get the new electric coolant pump circuitry installed, it'll control the fan, as well, so I'll have feedback on when the fan is on.