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Lol so that was my gf family hammer. I asked my gf to go get me a hammer from the tool box and brought over the most sketchy one lol. Since then i put a screw in the top fixing that issue.

As for the tires not sure if its new new or not. The front is a China tire Kenda. Not sure if that's was stock or not but the back one is a Michelin City grip. Both have good life on them at least 80% or better. Just not sure on why on the difrent brands.  Maybe they only had one in stock or bought at difrent times by different owners.

As for the air filter, the guy said he had taken it off-roading  and that's another reason he took off the center stand :/ a lot of question marks from that guy.  but hey if your wanting to get out from under an air filter ill buy it off you


Also turns out that the weld nuts to the center stand was completely stripped.  I had to drill threw and put a bolt-on. the hardest part of the whole ordeal was to get the spring back on.    took 2 people a jack prybars and vice grips to get it back on lol.

I made these quick links hopefully it will be useful to everyone.  Everyone should have access but only moderators will have access to edit.  (stig feel free to shoot me a pm and I'll get you edit rights)



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BWlQqd-OhTXLmvT2UKbsHuicA3wNQKNoqw2YryDYnm0/edit?usp=sharing

Hello all,
Sorry, it's been a minute I got called back into work so I've had less time to work on the bike.  So when I bought it the speedo cable was broken and I couldn't see how fast I was going.  After pulling the cluster out and getting to the cable the inners of the cable that spins was able to come out entirely.  (some bikes are made that way however the like has an internal clip of some sort that holds it in.  I found that the wheel side component was still good after lifting it and spinning it.  So I ordered a cable and here's the following procedure how I did it.


Hardness level:  4 out of 10. 
There are no special tools needed and fairly simple just don't pull to hard when pulling the cable threw.


Step one:
Remove the top plastics near the cluster.
       >This has 2 Phillips and 2 8mm bolts
       > once removed remove the plastic holding in the speedo cluster to access the cable.  There should be 3 clips. 
          similar to Stigs post found here https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=29611.0

Step two:
Remove and inspect cable.
        > on the back of the cluster is the speedo cable you can see the fitting screws off and you can see if the inner of the
           cable pulls out.  if it pulls out then the cable is no longer working correctly and will need a new cable.
               
Step three:
before buying a new cable make sure that the speedo drive unit is still working correctly
         > you can do this two ways.  you will need to pull the cable out of the speedo drive which is connected to the wheel with one bolt (i believe a 10 mm may have been and 8 :/)

         >Then you can do 2 things.
                    a.  Put it on the center stand and spin the wheel to see if the drive unit is spinning
                              > tech tip if you put your bike on the center stand push down on the back and put some wood in between
                                  the kickstand then the front wheel will stay off the ground. 
                    b.  get an assistant and push the bike forward to see if it's spinning
         > if it still spins then you don't have to replace it but its a good time to check

Step four:
once your new cable comes in you can do it the hard way and pull off all the plastics and have a hell of a time or you can do what I did which is a life hack for sure.  I do this process a lot with wiring and it worked pretty well with this speedo cable as well
         > So after the cable has been disconnected from the cluster I used electrical tape to tie the two cables together (the
            cluster end of the old cable and the drive end of the new cable.)



                >You want to make sure that you wrap the cable several times on one side then bring it back to the other.  I did
                  this 3 times just to ensure that the tape will not break while pulling the cable threw.



Step five
Pulling the cable threw
         > disconnect the bolt holding the cable onto the shock. 

                     > there is also a tab that needs to be pried underneath the front wheel fairing.  I took mine off because I
                        couldn't see it at first but I believe that this could be done with the fender on.

         > after taping the 2 cables together securely you are going to pull from the wheel side. 
                     >Warning if it gets snagged and it's too hard to pull makes sure you pulled that tab out.  pulling too hard will
                        break the tape and you will have to pull all the plastics to find where it snagged. 

step six
Alignment of the cable.
        > once the cable is pulled threw align the cable v into the drive unit tooth.  sounds complicated but its really not your
            just aligning the cable up with the drive unit.


        > once aligned place bolt back into the speedo cable that holds the cable into the drive gear.
        > bolt back the bolt from the cable bracket to the shock

step seven
insuring of cable alignment
        > to ensure this is done correctly you must spin the wheel to see if the cable at the top is spinning. if this is the case
           then you can start putting everything back together


step eight
reconnect the cable back into the cluster
         > after reconnecting the cable into the cluster reinstall the plastics holding in the cluster and secure the 2 Phillips
            and 2 8mm hex bolts

Step nine
Test drive.
          >  after putting it all back together, test ride the bike to make sure that your speedometer is now working correctly

Step ten
          >  after verifying your fix give your self a pat on the back and have a beer you are now finished. 

                 

Your VIN part of the recall then?
Check line fitting at the gas tank. Some were not tightened sufficiently - Fix is to tighten sufficiently

That's a good valve check video - (no need to remove battery - just cover with a heavy cloth/towel)
>Best plug I've used in my 2013 LIKE200i is the NGK CR7-X Iridium (worked better for me than the equivalent Denso Iridium for some reason)
>First time belt cover off can be a bear! There are pry points - rear one is best tapped from muffler side though wheel spokes.
>Using 18/14 -14g Dr Pulley sliders - the 13g raised my cruise RPM's too much for my liking.
>While you're down there - empty the puke tube.
>Airfilters in MY area last forever - air tube pick-up end is in a very protected area in the bodywork apparently.
>Always used stock Kymco belt for the LIKE - perfect fit and long life.
>15/40 oil should be just great for Calif. SHELL Rotella T-6 15/40
>Swap out the gear oil.
>With a flash light, check for light amber brake fluid in the reservoir windows.
>LIKE is not a soft riding scooter - so use recommended PSI - esp in the front! But you can change the rear preloads for some help.
>Remove the oil screen thing once to dump whatever you find - after that maybe once a year at the most. Most of us never see much in there after the first service. Never overtighten this cap! Snug is good unless you go below 500m in the sea.
> Specs for plug and valve gap should be on sticker under the seat.
>Birth certificate is found under bodywork, above muffler - need a flashlight and lay on your back.
>Buff the clutch pads if you've a pull-away chatter - then be a little more assertive when moving off after that to keep chatter away. Mine is butter smooth.
> A 12Ah and a 14Ah YUASA battery will fit if you trim 5mm off of the hold-down posts on underside of battery cover. See YUASA charts to match your battery's width & length size.

>Starts should be nearly instantaneous using no throttle with a healthy battery.
>Just for the halibut I use only premium fuel (Shell nitro 93)
>Since you (she?) likely will not be riding in the wet - the stock tires are probably OK. I rain ride & swapped them out after 400 miles for City Grips.
>Valve adjustments are very easy, compared to many scooters. (Battery cover off, seat/bucket unit out, center panel popped off, viewing cap off right side of engine - rotate to proper position and FEEL slight movement in rockers. Best not to proceed if you don't feel slight movement in both!

www.cyclepedia.com sells a pretty good online manual (and or a book) These folks make the manuals for KymcoUSA.

Stig

Yeah, my vin was part of the recall.  Ill go back and check the lines tomorrow I'm done for today lol.

What I managed today.

Oil change - Lucas 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil couldn't find  15w-40 and figured it's going to be ok. 

Spark plug change - ended up going with stock copper due to not know about your cr7x plug. (runs way better btw even though it was running great before.  although might have due to the oil being super black lol.

drained the puke tube.

changed the gear oil- used 80-90 due to not being able to find strait 90.  also guestimated the amount didn't have a syringe but prob will order one so I can put a measured amount.

the biggest job was to pull out the cigarette lighter man what a pita.  I ended up not having a .8 amp fuse nor not wanting to go back and do the job over so I rewired a normal blade fuse back to the battery box.  I used a temp 5 amp fuse until I go back to the parts store where ill grab a 1 amp if I can find one or order online.  In my opinion, this is one of the most common fuses to blow so might as well relocate it to a way easier location.

 cleaned the air filter.
        it will need one order one since it was not as clean as I would like.  Do they make a K&N or something for these?

Looked into lowering
    noticed some notches on the rear springs where it looks like it could possibly lower or release some preload to possibly lower the back.  My GF is 5ft 2" (I'm 5ft8") so it would be better to lower it down for her if possible.  also looked into taking part of the seat foam out but not much in the area where you actually put your butt sooo it's limited to take out the foam. 
Recommendations would be greatly appreciated for the vertically inclined   

Also was thinking about putting on a digital rpm gauge I hate not knowing lol.  found some cheapies for like 20 bucks.

didn't get a chance to pull the wheel off today but went ahead and ordered the cable and drive unit as a used package threw eBay so that should be in
also picked up a center stand as well.

Hey Stig, I believe you're a moderator of this forum any interest in doing a diy maintenance sticky? basically would be like a table of contents and adding links to already made posts (common to prob everyone's bookmarks) but just have the best of's in one place for everyone.  more than likely it will be a lot of your posts lol but would be very helpful for newbies like me although I try to search as much as possible.  Im sure the people of the forum would be willing to send over some of there links to help the process.


~Marshall

Ok so I've done some thinking and this is what I'm thinking of doing in the next coming weeks.

General Maintenance
1.Oil change - 15-40 synthetic (I live in Los Angeles as the weather is warm year-round)  if I can find it if not I'll try and get as close to it as I can.  (it's got "4500" miles on it but the speedo broke so... who knows.)   
        On a side note did I read correctly this has no Oil filter?  Just a screen?  not sure if the different years had differences or not.

2. Change the spark plug
         It is running nicely as it is currently but I don't think any real maintenance has been done to this scooter so while I'm in there.
                 any recommendations?  I usually use ngk iridium but not sure about scooters.

3. Speedo cable and Drive (sourced but have to order)
       This will need some more investigation.  So I need to pull off the drive gear to see if I can diagnose if it's still good or not.  I'll take off the front wheel today and take a look.  I did source a used unit from "that eBay guy" lol so I'll order it if I need it

4. Center stand (sourced but have to order)
         also sourced from eBay.  So the story that the previous owner gave me was a mixture of Weight savings/ may have gotten bent during an off-road expedition lol.  To say this scooter hasn't had a hard life would be a lie.  He also told me that he drove the scooter from LA to Sandiego (approx 125 miles) on the high way.  So this bike has been threw some torture testing for sure :/. 

5.  Wash wax/ scratch removal
          So altho my picture looks like the scooter clean it's far from it.  There are a lot of scratches and imperfections that need to be addressed.  I will take a buffer to some of the bad spots with some compound to see if I can take out some of the bad ones. 

6. inspections
           Since I don't know to much about this bike I'm going to take some things apart and check out and inspect some things.   Air filter, trans belt, rollers, breaks, tire pressure, light check, other broken parts lol, any other common problems I should be on the lookout for?






Maybe's

I.  Adjust the valves
        not sure if I want to dig into this right now.  I prob should however have to source a valve cover gasket.

II. sliders/Rollers
         Seams like a common mod was to change out the rollers for the Dr. Pulley sliders.  seams like this would be good to do.  If I do I'll put on a new drive belt too (recommendations welcome)


more to come for sure but feel like I just wrote a novel lol so I won't bore you guys anymore.  Also hats off to Stig been reading up on some of your posts and going to try and follow your footsteps. 

now time to work on this thing