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I cant get it out of my head that a stiffer counter spring will cause more friction against the belt/plates and get hotter. Maybe a lot hotter.

Im probably not thinking about it right.

I cant seem to find any stories about people running too stiff a spring and trashing their belt/drive pullies online though, so im probably just making stuff up.

RJS - Went ahead and installed a Malossi HMR Over range variator in the AK550 when i did the belt change at 15,000 miles.

(i could not detect ANY measurable wear...none. Even confirmed measurements with a new OEM belt. nada. I don't really see how thats possible, but there ya go.)

+82% Violet Contra Spring (seems like a LOT)
13 gram Rollers (seems very light next to the 17g OEM)

EXTREME difference in acceleration. WAY WAY higher RPMs.

Too much even.

The kit came with a .5 mm spacer (#9 in the diagram) which I ended up taking out because it was JUST TOO MUCH. Simply amazing a 1/2 MILLIMETER can make THAT much difference.

The bike is way quicker now. Im really surprised at the difference...It feels like i added a big bore kit or a turbo charger

I can access the 7000-7500 rpm range now easily where as before i could only get there at very high speeds.

The kit came with 12 gram and 13 gram weight sets for 3 different tunings...Tour, Sport and Race. (race requires a different muffler)

TOUR MODE IS OUTRAGEOUS!! I cant imagine wanting to go with Sport or race for any reason other than dragging.

Another instantly noticeable difference is that the CVT is WHISPER QUIET NOW.

Before the change i was getting all sorts of clatter at idle...i thought it was just the nature of the beast because they all seem to clatter.

This is completely silent...not sure how they do it.

ANYWAY!!!!

My question is about wearing out the bike with the higher RPMs

Im not sure if this is even a real consideration but i dont want to wear things out just for a sporty ride that i DONT require in any way...it was plenty quick before...what do you think? Will adding a constant 500+ extra rpm make a difference in the lifespan of bearings and stuff?

I only bought it because it ended up being about twice the price of new OEM rollers and guides and it came with 2 sets of rollers, guides, spring, ramp/basket ect (im a sucker for a bargain)...I thought it MIGHT add some acceleration, but nothing like this...Night and day.

Ill be very interested to see how much my mileage is affected.

Also - The easyboost made it a really simple job...im pretty sure i can tear down the whole CVT, clean, swap out parts and slap it all back together in under an hour

I haven't yet looked real close at it but would not be surprised it is made of similar filter material as my Burgman 650 air filter is made of. That one was a woven fiber filter element, not paper.

Pretty sure its not wetable

DNA makes something though that looks pretty neat...have you looked at it?
Looks something like what you mentioned...

"This is an extremely important part of the DNA filter. As soon as the DNA Oil is added to the cotton media, the cotton is "static charged" and transformed into an unbeatable filtering material! To achieve this fantastic result we have developed a unique air filter oil formula."

https://www.e-dnafilters.com/product/Motorcycle-Filters/Kymco/DNA-1402/P-KY5SC18-01/Kymco-AK550-Euro-4-(17-20)-DNA-Air-Filter-P-KY5SC18-01

I bought my AK550 used with 4500 miles.  Runs great but one thing I noticed almost immediately is the throttle had at least 1/4" of play in it.  When I peeled back the rubber boot over the adjuster, it looked like someone had already messed with it, maybe the dealer...not sure.  I got it fixed and now it's how I like it but I was almost afraid I was going to run out of adjustment.  It took a bunch of adjustment to get it right.  Hoping I don't have to adjust at the throttle body or replace the cable over time as the cable stretches more.

Anyone else notice this on theirs?

On another note...What year is your AK and what did it go for? (if ya dont mind the asking)

Ok, show of hands what type of battery do you run in your scooter. Agm or lithium? Being someone who only works three miles from his home I find it difficult to maintain AGM batteries. No matter how much I maintain them the load they produce is very difficult to start my scooter (Granted I use a 12v6A battery) would it be worth it to purchace a lithium battery and get more life out of it compared to purchacing an AGM? Just curious.


This is the brand that I use

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mighty-Max-Battery-YTX7A-BS-Battery-for-Motorcycle-Powersports-Scooter/5000177971?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-PLA_HDW_214_Auto-Batteries-_-5000177971-_-online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwMHe_oPM9QIVdfHjBx1_BgpnEAQYASABEgLvDfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

REALLY impressed with this bad boy...looks like its on sale too...$35 off what i paid. That pisses me off for some reason

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-NLP14-Powersport-Motorcycles-Snowmobiles/dp/B091P9QXX7/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2RMBYTOS8ETK0&keywords=lithium+motorcycle+battery&qid=1646343820&sprefix=lithium+moto%2Caps%2C374&sr=8-1

Swapped out the coolant in the AK today and AFTER i got all the plastic put back on it dawned on me that there's no need to take anything off...AT ALL.

The radiator cap it JUST accessible from the underneath. Cant really see it, but you can reach it and remove it. Then just a funnel and length of hose to refill.

SUPER easy job. Unless you are a dimwit like myself and pull off a bunch of plastic unnecessarily.

Next time ill know.

Also blew out the CVT air filter...it had been about 5000 miles since i blew it out last and there was only a PUFF of dust and a few dog hairs in it this time. I can barely imagine an environment where that thing would actually need cleaned out even every 10k miles...Much less 3,000. Guess its worth throwing eyes on it occasionally more than anything. Same for the engine air filter. Almost spotless. Changed it anyway but im saving all the used ones and will blow them out and re-use them once the bikes no longer under warranty.

Putting off the brake fluid change for now. Simply cant think of any reason to swap it out already. Its practically brand new.

Must have a small gas tank or gets poor mpg.
Riding with temps above 60F I would expect no issues going 165 miles, or even 175 miles, before running dry. Been close to that on only 3.1 gallons. The AK tank is at least 3.3 or 3.4 gal.


Jermwars... how many gals did you fill the tank with when it was drained?

Im not actually sure...I threw what was left in the gas can in there and drove for awhile before filling it up again