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No, that was what you said yourself, I can't tell from a video where the noise is coming from....


No, it's probably not. You can't tell this from the number of kms only. After 18.000km the clutch on my 2006 Agility still looks as good as new !! Still something to check though, yours might be different...

Thanks, anybody remember the size of the clutch nut?  I know it's a big mofo.  The last time I had it off I had to use a large adjustable wrench.  I would prefer to get the correct size socket this time.

The belt vibration doesn't look alarming to me, and I wouldn't worry about a temporary absence of liquid build up in the crankcase ventilation (as long as all vacuum/ventilation tubes aren't blocked or leaking, the crankcase oil level is fine and the crankshaft oil seals aren't leaking...)

But the noise surely isn't right...

There's only one way to find out : take it apart and examine...

There are two bearings in the driven pulley (one roller bearing, one ball bearing) which might be worn out or running dry,  there's a large spring behind the torquedrive (the moving driveface of the driven pulley) which could be broken, the torquedrive could have excessive play, the torquedrive could be sticking, not closing entirely, or not running straight...

There's a lot going on in the rear pulley assembly behind the clutch, it's probably the most important part of the CVT, and most people don't even know that those bearings and torquedrive should be lubricated...

Anyway, don't run it like this any more, don't even let it idle before you checked your driven pulley... If it's indeed the roller bearing in the driven pulley that's making this amount of noise, it must be so far gone that it might also damage the drive shaft..

Ok will do.  So you do agree that it seems to be coming from the rear pulley and not the engine?  I tried to check for any play in the rear pulley/clutch and everything seemed tight.  I guess I'll take it apart and see what's going on.  Might as well install a racing clutch while it's apart.

Worrisome noise from my Kymco Agility 50.  Also, is it normal to have this much belt vibration at idle?  The noise seems to be coming from the clutch gearbox area, more so than the engine, and it kinda makes the engine sound like a diesel.  Any ideas.

Also, I haven't had any liquid build up in my crankcase ventilation tube in months.  What would cause that?

I think it comes down to How you ride. I find loads of faults with them in a 2t application but love them in my 4t. It's just about riding style really.
If you want the same rpm as rollers go 1gr heavier w/ Dr.P.. Regardless what they say.

So 6.0 Dr. P sliders would be equivalent to 5.0 rollers?  Never heard mention of this before?  I've been running 6.0 Dr. P sliders for about a year now and was thinking about stepping down to 5.5's.  Now I don't know if that would be the best way to go.

OD part of your problem is the ethanol.  I wouldn't run that in anything, power and mpg will suffer and it will kill your engine over time.  I use only Shell V-Power 93 octane.  Also put a few ounces of Seafoam in the tank to clean the fuel system and carb.

I've checked my mpg twice in the last year.  The first time I got 99 mpg, and the second I got 140 mpg.  Th 140 mpg was after switching to Royal Purple, installing a new plug and being a little more gentle on the throttle.

I use Royal Purple 10w-40 MaxCycle.

Steido don't aren't you running a NCY variator?  If so, they are known not to be of the highest quality.  I can vouch for the Polini, damn good variator.  I really like the Dr. Pulley Sliders in place of conventional rollers as well.