KymcoForum.com

Hi guys,

So, my Super 9 is being rebuilt to be a road coarse scooter instead of a drag racing bike.  I'll be setting it up to run at the local karting track, and I hope to be making my first tests by April.

Some of you may be aware that I have a Yamaha Jog now, that I'm turning into a 1/8 mile sprinter.  I like my Kymco, but the Minarelli engine is certainly far superior to the Kymco powerplant as far as modifications go.  Still - the Kymco is awesome and I look forward to getting it on the track.

 I'm sure some of you have checked out the scooter forum at www.scooterinvasion.net/forum before. I have recently remodeled the forum and I'm looking for feedback! I've been "MIA" for a while as life has thrown me a few nasty curve balls over the past year and change, but I'm back in action and participating in the board again - both mine and Kymcoforum. If you get a chance, check out scooterinvasion and let me know what you think!

~Josh

I have seen it happen a few times over the years.  It could be any number of different problems, but typically what I see is that either a clutch spring broke, or the clutch shoe itself broke, so the spring no longer has anything to hold on to.

You can get the clutch bell off without an impact gun if you need to.  You can use a locking chain clamp (http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html) or even one of those oil filter wrenches with the rubber strap to hold the clutch bell still while you remove the clutch nut.

You can also lock the rear brake or the wheel into place to keep the input shaft from moving while you remove the nut.

I hope this helps!

~Josh

Thanks for the plugs Zombie.   I don't check in here as often as I used to because family and business keep me more than busy... Good to see you're still kicking around.

 Any updates on your situation Mr. Amish Sasquatch guy?  The Super 9 is a great machine, and when they're running right they're really quite nice.   I hope you can get the issues sorted.

Ciao!
 
~Josh

This year, with the help of our sponsors, we are hosting the Spring Nationals in Shelby, NC!
We will be competing in both bracket and heads up drag racing. For everyone else we’re also hosting a Custom Show, Swap Meet, and Burnout Contest open to all attendees.

Friday night is test and tune night at the dragstrip. It’s a great way to get some practice in before the big race. Free onsite camping and I hear the guys from Scooter Invasion has some cool stuff planned for us. If camping isn’t your thing there are plenty of hotels in the area also. You can still ride over and get in on the action. It’s bound to be a great time.

Hopefully the southern location will bring out some of these beast mode scooters we’ve been hearing about.
Looking at you Florida & East Coast.

Presented by GY6 Store.com
Hosted by Scooter Invasion.net


Welcome to the first annual NASRA Spring Nationals,

This year, with the help of our sponsors, we are hosting the Spring Nationals in Shelby, NC!
We will be competing in both bracket and heads up drag racing. For everyone else we’re also hosting a Custom Show, Swap Meet, and Burnout Contest open to all attendees.

Friday night is test and tune night at the dragstrip. It’s a great way to get some practice in before the big race. Free onsite camping and I hear the guys from Scooter Invasion has some cool stuff planned for us. If camping isn’t your thing there are plenty of hotels in the area also. You can still ride over and get in on the action. It’s bound to be a great time.

Hopefully the southern location will bring out some of these beast mode scooters we’ve been hearing about. Looking at you Florida & East Coast.

Let’s race!
Jeremy Hall
(317) 938-5021
USAScooterRacing@Gmail.com

When

April 25 & 26

Where

Shady Side Dragway
2149 Honey Haven Farm Rd
Shelby, NC. 28152

Costs

Race entry $70
Includes race entry, pit space, t-shirt, swag pack, and race number.

Spectator $8
12 & Under Free

Swapmeet, Custom Show, and Burnout Contest included in your admission.

Schedule

Friday April 25

4-8pm
Early check in & tech

4-6pm
Free Test & Tune

4-11pm
Bonfire, cookout, and good times.
Hosted by Scooter Invasion.net

Saturday April 26

8-11am
Check in & Tech

10am – Noon
Riders meeting & practice

1pm – End

Heads up racing
Bracket racing
Burnout contest
Custom show
Awards
Event rules and Safety Requirements

It’s the participants job to read and understand the requirements and to abide by them.
Any questions you have can be addressed by contacting us directly either by phone or email.
Racing

We’ll be racing both heads up and double elimination bracket racing.
Racers will be allowed up to three bikes and enter in as many classes that you qualify for. No bike swaps.
Racers 15 – 18 years of age must have a parent or guardian on site.

All racers will automatically be entered into the bracket race & King of the Hill.

Racers must be NASRA members.
Membership may be purchased online or at the registration table.
Scooter
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with 16″ wheels or smaller. Step through chassis with a floorboard and a automatic or manual transmission. Scooter engines are modular and act as both the power plant and a part of the rear suspension.

4T

50cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock engine bore & bottom end
Headwork ok
Cam swap ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

85cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars

105cc Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″

150cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock engine bore & bottom end
Headwork ok
Cam swap ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

150cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

170cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

190cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

235cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

250cc – 350cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No motor swaps
No wheelie bars

250cc+ Maxiscoot Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″

4T Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bar
*Wheelbase max length 65″
2T

50cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock cylinder, piston, and bottom end
Porting & head work ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

75cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

115cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

2T Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
Safety lanyard required
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″

Vintage Shifter
Defined as a two wheeled vehicle with a step through design and a floorboard with wheels 12″ or smaller. The shifter is located on the left control as is the clutch lever. Typically associated with Vespa’s, Lambretta’s, and the Genuine Stella.

150cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Engine internals must remain stock
*Wheelbase max length 65″
No engine swaps
No power adders

200cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Engine internals must remain stock
*Wheelbase max length 65″
No engine swaps
No power adders

Vintage Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
Must use vintage shift style engine
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″

Mopeds
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a step over or step through design with 15″ wheels or smaller. Automatic one or two speed transmission, chain driven rear wheel, and typically pedal start.

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end and bore
Headwork & porting ok
No motorswaps
No chassis modifications
No power adders

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Honda Grom

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end and bore
Cam swap ok
Head modifications ok
No chassis modifications
No power adders

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Cushman
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a step through or step over chassis with 14″ wheels or smaller. Drive train is either automatic or two speed transmission mated to a single cylinder Cushman engine.

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end & cylinder
Head work & Cam ok
No chassis modifications
No power adders
No engine swaps

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Sprinter
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a custom laydown chassis with 16″ wheels or smaller. Powered by a scooter engine with a modular design with a automatic CVT transmission.

2T Sprinter Unlimited
Laydown chassis
Safety lanyard
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″

4T Sprinter Unlimited
Laydown chassis
Safety lanyard
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″
Outlaw
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a modified scooter chassis with 16″ wheels or smaller. Engines for this class are typically sourced from dirtbikes and ATV’s.

Outlaw Unlimited
Modified scooter chassis
Safety lanyard
2T 400cc Twin Cylinder Max
4T 700c Twin Cylinder Max
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″

All displacement numbers are +/- 5cc’s.

* Measured from front wheel axle to rear drive axle.
** Measured from rear scooter drive axle to the furthest back wheelie bar wheel axle.
Custom Show

Custom show is open to all attendees.
Check in that morning at the registration tent to get signed up and stage your scooter in the show area.

Best Vintage
Best Modern
Peoples Choice
Burnout Contest

The burnout contest is open to all attendees but you must adhere to the same safety rules our racers do.
Winner will be chosen by group participation. So bring your friends and a spare tire. Get loud!

Trophy will be awarded to the winner.
Tech

Braking system will be inspected.
Throttle must snap back on it’s own.
No excessively worn or knobby tires will be allowed on the track.
Safety lanyards must be properly installed, as required by class.
There must be a prominently displayed kill switch on the bike.
Track

No alcoholic beverages or intoxicants to be consumed by racers during the event.
After the drivers complete their burnout procedure the starter will direct both drivers to stage.
Leaving the track surface before the finish line will be an automatic disqualification.
First or Worse rule is implied which means that if racer A red lights but racer B leaves the track surface, makes contact with guardrail ect, racer A will be declared the winner.
In the unfortunate event of a rain out before eliminations start all participants including spectators will receive a rain check when its rescheduled the following weekend.
Pets must remain on a leash at all times.
Speed limit in the pits is 10mph.
Personal Conduct

Attendees of our events will be expected to represent themselves, and our sport, in a civilized manner. If you’re found to be cheating, using intoxicants, or exhibiting poor sportsmanship you’ll be disqualified.
Tear down

NASRA reserves the right to tear down any racer’s engine that is suspected of cheating. If tear down is refused they will be disqualified from the event. Other penalties may be issued at the discretion of management.

All decisions of track management is final.
Gear
Minimum Requirements.

Long sleeve riding jacket
DOT approved full face helmet
Eye protection
Full length jeans
Leather shoes must cover the ankle
Full finger leather gloves
Registration

Includes event t-shirt, number decals, swag pack, and pit space.
Discounts for teams of two or more.

Any time you have a no-start situation, it is best to "get the facts".  You need facts, not speculation or guesses in order to accurately get to the bottom of your issue.

Your engine needs proper charge (fuel, oil, air) being supplied in order to run, along with sufficient compression, and ignition.  Of course, it all has to happen at the right time as well.  You'll need to check for spark, compression and fuel.  It sounds like you have already checked spark, but even though you are getting fuel - are you sure there's no water in there, and no trash in the carburetor?  Have you hooked up a good compression gauge and gotten a reading?

You mentioned "bent valve" in your previous post... Our 2-stroke Super 9 engines do not have valves like you would find in your car, but they do have reed valves (which break and fray, they don't bend and stay stuck in a bent position like metal 4-stroke valves might).  I suppose you could check that if you are so inclined. Be careful about the gaskets... might want to have extras on hand before you take it apart if you suspect a broken reed.

If fuel and spark are okay, you may want to remove your exhaust, and look up into the port.  From here, you can actually see the piston.  You can't see all of it, of course, since you're only looking through the exhaust port, but you can see enough to tell if there are scratches or unacceptable wear on the piston.  You can also see the boost port, and secondary transfers though the exhaust port.  I'd get a compression check while you're at it.  One with a real number attached - not the "It blew my thumb off", or "it didn't" method.

I consider it rare to have an ignition timing issue on a scooters, as the ignition timings are fixed and the flywheel keys really don't shear in normal service.  That said, I think that if you have spark, you really shouldn't have to worry about the ignition timing - but I'd like to mention that just this week I had an air cooled Super 9 come into the shop that had a bad CDI... It still had spark, but it was firing at the wrong time, causing a no-start situation.  On occasion it would even backfire really bad when trying to start.

On the note of CDI issues, you will want to make sure that you have a well charged battery.  With your liquid cooled Super 9, you have to have a bit of power to run the DC powered CDI.  It will not run well without a fully charged battery.

If you take this, and the other advice people have given you into good consideration, I think you'll be able to give us some good feedback.   You should certainly be able to get to the bottom of the issue.

~Josh

WOW!!! Awesome. I thought i was performing plenty of upgrading, but you have gotten the grand prize. And it looks incredible to top it off. I too will one day learn your kung fu scooter  skills.

Thank you for the kind words.   I wanted the scooter to run fast, but look good as well.  When I first started racing it, it was just naked with no body work.  I want people to recognize it as a scooter, so the body panels were kind of important to me. 

As for "Kung Fu Scooter Skils", I have always enjoyed the quote "The more a man learns, the more he realizes how little he knows."  I have made power-robbing mistakes during the process of tuning this bike, and others, and I've been tuning scooters for a while now.  Thankfully I have the dyno and other tools to help guide me in the right direction.  I don't believe I will ever really consider myself any kind of "grandmaster 2-stroke tuner".  Instead, I hope to always be able to learn more and grow my skill set.  Perhaps I'll even get a few trophies under my belt in the process.

Ciao!

~Josh

I've got it running in the low 10's now, and have some new parts arriving soon.  I'll be doing a few small upgrades before Twist N Gone 2013.  Hopefully I can see this thing into the 9's.