KymcoForum.com

2010 Kymco Super 8 50 four stroke
CDI dealer de-restricted upon sale
42 mph top speed on flat with no wind, no modifications
crawls hills, getting progressively slower
lives under two tarps
tricks people into thinking it's a sport bike javascript:void(0);

Maintenance recommendations?
(I change the oil and pressurize the tires, stock filter cleaning ideas, etc.?)

Suggested modifications, save cylinder diameter, for hill climbing with wife and groceries?
(^plz cue forum etiquette, merge threads?)

New to CVT-> with cluth and variatior changes and new belt-> belt calibration/adjustment requirements?

Kymco Super 8 brake light not working?  Fixed mine like so:

1. Open under seat compartment and unscrew seat, remove.

2. Unscrew all under seat bucket screws, remove.

3. Unscrew seat latch mechanism, move to the side (I set mine on the other side of the gas cap).

4. The brake light socket is accessible behind the rubber boot, which is accessible after removing the seat latch.  Slide the rubber boot back down the length of the wires a way to expose the back of the socket.  Then, while viewing the socket and bulb from the rear of the scooter, twist the socket so the tabs on the socket are aligned with notches in the brake light holder to allow the socket (and bulb attached) to come out backwards (toward the front of the scooter)

5.  A professional mechanic had, presumably, done steps 1-4 and charged $45, then applied dielectric silicone grease to, presumably, the socket itself, and charged $2 for that (with some electrical testing thrown in there).  That is what you should do.  As I was without silicone grease, I researched the petroleum grease I had found (Park Tool brand, for bicycles), and found it was electrically insulating, like silicone grease.  I reasoned it could help because the ground (dark green wire) was arcing (sparking) to the metal portion of the socket due to fraying.  I applied petroleum grease to the outside of the metal portion of the socket primarily because it was the area where the ground was arcing, with some on the inside of the socket, careful not to get any on the leads/diodes/connectors to the bulb at the bottom. 

6.  Replace all parts in the same order, do not over-tighten screws/nuts.

Notes: 

The socket seemed loose upon replacing, but I just drove it home from my parents' garage with my girlfriend in the car behind me as a spotter and it was problem-free.

This fix is for scooters with a bad light bulb connection (ie; not enough dielectric grease), not bad wiring, a faulty brake light swith, disconnected wiring, or a bad fuse.