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Messages - AgilityOnAnRV

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1
Remove the side casing, you will need an assistant and a soft mallet. Have the assistant hold the casing whilst you jar the kickstart and tap the spigot with a soft mallet.

Once the spigot is out, clean up the teeth with a stiff brush and rake out the hole it sits in. Then lightly grease the teeth on the spigot.
Give the teeth on the kickstart half plate and lightly grease.

The spigot has a clip that fits around it into a groove, clean and grease this. If the clip cannot spin, the kickstart will jam.

Have your assistant pull the kickstart fully down then reinsert the spigot into its hole, ensure the clip sits over the short shaft( which is clean and lightly greased) then have your assistant slowly release the kickstart . The spigot should spin on its clip whilst the clip simultaneously slides down it's short locating shaft.

It's a bit of a fiddly dick on, but once everything is clean and lightly lubricated, it'll work fine

Problem solved! Thank you!

2
Did you take the whole kickstart mech out of the case? If you re-installed it the teeth may not be aligned as the should be so restricting the range of movement. Or you got bad or damaged teeth on the half moon or the bit that engages onto the half moon.

I didn't take the whole mechanism out of the case. Would I be able to see the damaged teeth without removing the mechanism from the case, or is my next step to take the whole thing apart and inspect it more closely?

3
I normally put a little lubricant or oil on my kickstart mech after i clean it out. They do tend to sieze up with belt dust etc if not used regularly.



I lubricated the mechanism after cleaning it. There is just one sticking point (really a "stopping point") about 1" - 2" down where 80% of the time the lever will not go past. The mechanism is totally smooth prior to and beyond that point.

4
My electric start works just fine, but in recent cold weather it took a number of tries before the engine started. I tried starting the engine with my kickstart (which hasn't been used in many months) and the kickstarter would only move downward an inch or two, getting stuck at that point. After trying to kick a number of times (usually 3-10 times) the kickstarter finally goes through its full range of motion. Kick again a few seconds later and it's usually back to getting stuck again. With a few full-range-of-motion kicks the engine does start.

I pulled the kickstarter mechanism today and used carb cleaner to get all of the gunk out. There was a lot. The teeth on the gears looked to be in fine shape and I lubricated the mechanism. Previously the kickstarter hadn't been smoothly returning to the top position but today's cleaning fixed that completely. The original problem, however, has not gone away.

Ideas?

5
When I ride at low speed or take off slowly from a stop my Agility 125 feels and sounds a bit rough, rather than the smooth engine sound and feel that I am used to. Once I pass ~15 MPH the rumble goes away.

I don't know if these are at all related, but I also am experiencing a few other issues:

1. It's starting to get cold here (in the low 40s), and one morning I had to try the start button 4-5 times before the scooter fired up. (It made the normal starting sound each time, just didn't come to full life.)

2. A few times when I have been at a stop or have slowed to a near stop, the engine has hesitated / sputtered for a second before accelerating. Is has not died on me yet, but each time it has seemed as though it might.

3. And finally, I have recently found that for the first 5 - 10 minutes of riding (particularly in colder weather) the throttle doesn't add any power beyond ~1/4 to 1/3 turn. Then, seemingly out of nowhere, it will spring to life and give me the normal variation of power across the full range of the throttle. (Increasing power as I turn the throttle more, obviously.)

Got any ideas for me on the rough feel or the other issues?

THANK YOU!

6
People 250 / What is a good / fair price for a 2009 S250 with 4k miles?
« on: September 19, 2012, 04:38:17 PM »
I am considering purchasing a People S250 in from a third-party in Texas. The seller is the original owner and it's a 2009 model with 4,000 miles. They were originally asking $3,000 but after some negotiating they came down to $2,350. (They are moving soon and need to get rid of it quickly.)

I think that I can get them to go lower, but I want to be fair to them as well. Assuming that the scooter is in good condition and working order, what do you see as a fair price for this scooter, and what would you consider to be a good deal (for me) on it?

Thank you for your opinion!

7
Agility 125 / Re: Agility 125 Performance @ High Elevation
« on: June 26, 2012, 05:54:29 AM »
"Although a CV-equipped bike doesn't go rich at altitude the way a fixed jet carb does, it will lose power due to the lower air pressure, which is reduced about 10% for every 3,000' gain in elevation.   With 10% fewer oxygen molecules going into the engine on each intake stroke, we should reduce the fuel by 10% to get back to that "ideal" fuel-to-air ratio of 12.5 to 1 for maximum power." . . attribution


For the benefit of others, please update this thread with your findings.

I definitely will, although it'll be at least a couple of weeks before I'm testing this.

8
Agility 125 / Agility 125 Performance @ High Elevation
« on: June 24, 2012, 06:51:48 PM »
I've been riding my Agility 125 in Austin, TX which is pretty close to sea level (~500' elevation).

This summer we'll be traveling around the country and plan to bring the scooter along. How should I expect performance to change at much higher elevations, say 5000' and 7000'?

Are there any modifications that I need to do or should do to prepare for the change?

9
Technical | How To / Agility 125 Performance @ High Elevation
« on: June 22, 2012, 09:50:49 PM »
I've been riding my Agility 125 in Austin, TX which is pretty close to sea level (~500' elevation).

This summer we'll be traveling around the country and plan to bring the scooter along. How should I expect performance to change at much higher elevations, say 5000' and 7000'?

Are there any modifications that I need to do or should do to prepare for the change?

10
Oh, and this totally makes me think that some shops have no clue what they're doing. I was just at the point where I was going to turn over diagnostics to a shop and when I spoke with someone just yesterday they said that it's definitely in need of a carb cleaning and that it would be around $130.

Yeah, that would have helped... empty my wallet.

11
After doing and testing everything on the planet in hopes of solving the problem of my scooter surging / lurching around 50 mph I finally decided to try (re)replacing my new carb diaphragm with the old one. Voila, problem solved. I just cruised down a frontage road at 60 mph with no sign of surging.

I'm glad that the problem is solved, but what the heck? Can anyone explain?

Thanks!

12
The latest news:

- The scooter runs just fine and it seems as though it doesn't sputter / consider dying at stops anymore. The ride wasn't terribly long so it's possible that it was just kidding about this :-)

- The surging issue is still there and it's now occurring at WOT / a bit under WOT around 45 MPH, whereas previously it only occurred at WOT above 50 MPH. A friend who knows bike engines should be coming over sometime in the next few days and hopefully we can figure something out. I'm guessing that it is related to the intake manifold, though, if that's the main thing that I played around with today (other than the diaphragm).

13
PROBLEM!!!!

I replaced the carb diaphragm and the scooter started fine. I then tried replacing the intake manifold. I took off the old manifold and everything looked fine but decided to try putting on the new one anyway. It didn't fit (couldn't screw down the two nuts all the way to fully secure it) so I put the old one back on. Now the scoot won't start!!! It cranks but doesn't go anywhere. All hoses appear to be in place just fine. I'll try taking off the manifold and putting it back on, but this definitely sucks.

Help, please!

And... in one of the more embarrassing moments of my life I admit that I just spent 2.5 hours ridiculously frustrated, only to figure out that I had accidentally hit the kill switch at some point prior. A mechanic friend reassured me that it's a mistake that everyone makes precisely one time in their life, but man, what an emotional roller coaster of a night!

Time to go check this thing out on the road.

14
PROBLEM!!!!

I replaced the carb diaphragm and the scooter started fine. I then tried replacing the intake manifold. I took off the old manifold and everything looked fine but decided to try putting on the new one anyway. It didn't fit (couldn't screw down the two nuts all the way to fully secure it) so I put the old one back on. Now the scoot won't start!!! It cranks but doesn't go anywhere. All hoses appear to be in place just fine. I'll try taking off the manifold and putting it back on, but this definitely sucks.

Help, please!

15
Carb intake

Is that the same as the intake manifold? If so, I'll be replacing that on Thursday or Friday.

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