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Rideaway Motors has closed. That's where I got the backrest and luggage rack. He also ordered and installed the overseas factory LED turn signals for the previous owner.

Would putting on a pod filter or messing with the air intake help with acceleration??

Maybe, but not going to be the mega increase you are hoping for. Tuned right, it could help you with top speed and acceleration slightly if you've geared the bike to run at power peak rpm.

With no tuning, you probably make it harder to idle when the weather is cold. It's potentially harder to set a carburetor mixture too once you huck the stock airbox. Usually the engineers calibrate the intake and the carburetor for a certain amount of tumble and turbulence to help atomize the fuel during cold starts, idling, and low speed pickup. For the size of engine, the stock intake likely allows enough airflow to meet maximum power and usable range.

In the wet, you may even pick up too much water in your carburetor. We had to pull over once so our Ruckus ride leader could empty out his carburetor float bowl of excess water. You don't want to be that guy.

I think I'm missing the joke.

Is hypophthalamus's suggestion of using commonly available supplies and equipment to calculate density of the rail to determine its composition not an answer from someone who thinks outside the box?

I've slept on the issue a little. I'm surprised how rounded that nut became. The only time I've done that is when I've tried to put a nut back on a long stud, but my socket was too short to have strong contact down the entire height of the nut. The socket then shears off the top edges of the nut as it glides over without biting.

Your socket may be the right diameter, but was your socket too short? They sell impact sockets in deep and short.

Your picture is pretty fuzzy, but if the nut still has decent edges down to the bottom, zapping it with the electric impact and a deep socket may just fix your issue. Nut may just come right out. Then you can get a new replacement nut.

In the future, if you squeeze the driven pulley and push the contra spring down to make room for the belt, you can leave the clutch nut on. Usually contra springs on 50 cc aren't terribly difficult to compress by hand. Other times, I slowly spin the belt as I slide it over the variator boss on the crankshaft driving side. It's definitely easier than trying to press a tight belt onto the shaft. Tips for the next time you're in there.

Did you destroy the nut only, or did you cream the threads too?

The former is no big deal. The nut can be cracked or carefully destroyed and replaced. The threads underneath on the other hand can be gnarlier to rectify, but at least we're not dealing with the crankshaft pulley!

What did you set the impact wrench to, and did you use the right sized impact socket (assuming 17 or 19 mm)? Usually the clutch bell is usually easy to tighten. Have an assistant squeeze the rear brake lever while you torque it to the requisite 80 ft-lbs (consult service manual) or so.

edit: If the nut is securely on there, just leave it be until you need to remove the clutch bell.

Any scooter enthusiasts in your area that can take a look at your scooter? Just doesn't sound right.

I used to beat cars off the line in my Honda Metropolitan if I had my timing down. Every stop light was an opportunity. Makes me wonder if the cable throttle has a restrictor by the carburetor or something. Sometimes there's a screw that restricts maximum throttle opening.

If it's simply coolant top-up you're after, then the coolant recovery bottle should be under a plastic panel with a Phillips screw under the rubber flap by the left footrest.

I don't understand dealers and mechanics that don't get me what I paid for in the line-item mandatory pre-purchase inspection. It's usually some non-trivial amount of money too.