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Very nice!

Here ya go. Aurora, Colorado.

Wax increases in size as it melts (as opposed to water) so it would make sense that a small cylinder filled with wax would cause a small piston to be pushed out as it heats up, and that piston would be connected to the needle. When you turn the motor off long enough for the wax to solidify, it would then contract and pull the needle back to the starting position. Presumably there's a coil wrapped around the wax cylinder that causes the heat to melt the wax.

The way I have tested it before on my old Vitality is to connect a small tube to the channel that lets the additional fuel pass through (with the autobystarter in place), and blow. If you can blow air through, the autobystarter is open. Then, connect the autobystarter to 12 v for a few minutes, and if you can still blow air through the hose, it is not working properly.

It doesn't sound to me like the autobystarter is the problem though, if you could actually see the needle move, but doing the blow test may be a way to see if there's a blockage in the channel.

Right button toggles through the hours and minutes. Left button toggles through month, day and seconds, center button is used to add units. So, press/hold the right button, and the hours will blink, then you can use the center button to increase hours. Press the right button again to go to minutes, then use center button to increase minutes. Left button, date will blink, increase months with center button, press left button again, increase days with center button, press button again, and you can reset seconds to 0. Press left button once more, and you are all set. Press/hold center button to switch from C to F. I don't think you can change from 24h to 12h, at least I haven't found a way.

It would depend on your definition of Shakes Pretty Good. Both of my B&W 250s rumble enough when idling to make the mirrors into a linear blur.

Quick while it's still light out!!

I remember one afternoon when a bad storm was rolling in here in Colorado, and the temp was dropping. It was one degree Fahrenheit at quitting time, and I decided to hang around because one degree, meh, I might as well wait for zero. So I waited half an hour, and it was zero, and I rode 6 miles home.

In low temps I have trouble keeping my visor clear. Anything below 20 F anything you can put on the inside surface will not keep ice from forming, especially 2 oval 1" flares where your nostrils sit. So, if you go any distance, count on having your face exposed. I chew gum when it's really cold, to keep my facial muscles moving to help keep my face warm. I think it works, have not read a dissertation about it though. I suppose I could get a full helmet, instead of my 3/4, but I love my 3/4.

I ride all year, and so I routinely ride in 5-15 F on winter mornings. This morning we woke up to some snow (we haven't had a lot yet this year) and I got my ride in to work on a very slick arrangement of road surfaces. Oh well, nothing I haven't seen before.

On slick surfaces, if I may give some advice, you can use the gyroscopic effect of the wheels to have good control of your bike. The bike will never fall over on its own, as long as the wheels are moving. So, as long as you are traveling in a straight line, keep that in mind. The bike just wants to stay upright, and it moves right along as you gently apply engine power, and it slows down when you gently apply the brakes. So, in traffic, as long as you are far enough behind the vehicle in front of you, and if hopefully there's not some fool behind you tailgating, you have nothing much to worry about. Obviously, there is always a chance that something unforeseen throws you off your path and knocks you down, but you are NOT constantly about to bite the dirt, it is much more stable than you think. If your back wheel starts to break out to the side, you may have too much throttle, so back off a little. All that is happening is that your back wheel is trying to overtake the front. Once you close the throttle (only as much as necessary) things will straighten out again.

Another thing, when you are on a multi-lane road, and your scooter has enough power, I strongly recommend not riding in the right lane.  The right lane is dangerous for several reasons: 1. Obviously, a vehicle may come skidding into your path from a side street; 2. Vehicles coming from side streets are carrying large amounts of snow and slush with them from the neighborhood streets, and it is deposited in gnarly curved ruts that can really mess with you; and 3. the closer to the crown of the road, the more level the road surface. Between trying to resist slipping off the side of the road into the gutter, and storm drain covers, the right lane is bad news in the snow.

Hope this helps. Oh, and take turns very gently, hold the bike up much straighter than normally, and steer like you're on a 5-year old's bike with training wheels.