KymcoForum.com

The idle jet is clogged. It happened to me. You can try run some Seafoam, but it is best to just get it cleaned. My last two shops only charged me 30 mins shop time plus parts to fix it since I took the carb out of the bike.

Let me rephrase that. The sliding pieces are needed just that when changing to sliders you don't have to use Dr. Pulley ones you can use the OE ones.

Great! That is one less item to worry about. Thank you

Ok, so to explain my question a little more... Are the ones that Dr.P sells required for the Xciting for the sliders or can the stock ones be used? I need to know if I have to buy a stock slide part to go back to stock set up. I didn't install the sliders myself, so I do not know if I still have the stock part installed or if they are interchangeable.

Has anyone tried the Dayco VC30940 belt? I wonder if it would be the same situation as the Gates Belt.
Here is a link to the one I found

If you look at this site, it looks like the Dayco belt is made like the OEM ones.
Here is that link.

What is the size of the fuel line on the Xciting 500? Last time I had the seat off it looked like it was kinked a little and I want to replace it & the fuel filter as I am running a little lean again. The carb has been cleaned at the shop, and fuel pump seems to be working fine.

Are they heavier now? I don't mind heavier weighs that as long as I am back to almost 45 MPG again. One of my local shops wants $90 for the weights and they don't even know how many grams the weights are. I am not thrilled about that.

Bongoman, Thanks, I didn't want to seem like I was hijacking your thread.

So I flushed my antifreeze today since I had time and realized it was about 3 years since I last did it. Yeah, it was dark green, but not rusty. Thankfully!

I noticed that there the hoses connect to the water pump there is some green sediment, so I am guessing that it was the antifreeze really going bad and trying to eat away at the hose. The hose and water pump housing did look fine after I took it off and cleaned the area with water and a cloth. During the inspection of the overflow tank everything looked nice and clean however I did notice that the rubber cap is on its way out. So if you have a 2007 or so scooter you might want to see if it is time to replace it.

Since it has been so long since I have changed the coolant I'll do it again in 3 months to make sure it is all clear and clean still. To make it easy to fill the tank back up I disconnected the stem tube from the filler cap assembly and inserted a funnel. It worked great and kept me from dripping too much antifreeze around and the area was flushed by water after I was done.

I used SuperTECH Pre-mixed 50-50 from Walmart hoping that it would be fine. The bottle stated that it was safe for aluminum engines and the MSDS didn't list any silicates or phosphates so I hoped that all is well. Once done I started up the motor and ran it for a bit, and it never reached the half way point on the temp gauge. So if anyone knows something that I do not about the SuperTECH 50-50 product please speak up as I am happy so far and hope to not need to drain it again right away. The SuperTECH is made by Prestone as per the MSDS.

Composition/Information On Ingredients:
Component                                          CAS No.               Amount
Ethylene Glycol                                     107-21-1           40-60%
Water                                                    7732-18-5         40-60%
Diethylene Glycol                                  111-46-6            0-5%
2-Ethyl Hexanoic Acid, Sodium Salt     19766-89-3        1-5%